Jun 4, 2015, 07:42 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
- Mercedes-Benz C-Class: How to Replace Brake pads/rotors
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Replacing front brake pads and rotors on R350...also my non OEM pad/rotor selection
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Joined: Jun 2015
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How do I know if mine is 330mm or 350mm? I rotated the tires and dont recall anything slotted, so I assume its a regular rotor in the rear.
I will research places but anything auto seems good, but any good deals on brakes. I dont remember the brakes being close to done, but the light came on so one of them is low or the sensor is broken.
I will research places but anything auto seems good, but any good deals on brakes. I dont remember the brakes being close to done, but the light came on so one of them is low or the sensor is broken.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 118
From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
You can measure the diameter with a tape measure. Yours may or may not be slotted; the main thing is making sure you have the right style: vented or solid.
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whats the difference? why 330 or 350? My wife has the car. I am trying to look it up for pricing.
I have a 2008 r350 4wd standard wheels. I can't find why its 1 or the other. I see now about the rotors. When I read it the first time I was thinking of the rotors that are slotted. I now understand its whether the rotor is a solid disc or has the air gap in the center. like 2 discs put together with a space. I don't recall either way on venting.
Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 229
Likes: 14
From: Akron, OH
2006 R350
This is a common theme with European manufacturers. They will use various brake set-ups within the same model making it kind of tricky to order parts without knowing the exact specs. My previous Jaguar was the same way. BMW's too.
I have read through this thread with great interest. BUT... based on the fact that Mercedes did a full brake job with new rotors, when the car was with the previous owner, at 46,000 miles; I will be using the Mercedes OEM parts when we need to do them.. Yes I said when...
Her R has over 100k on it now and still hasn't needed brakes. No vibration either.. just tons of dust as usual... I have not seen an OEM brake set up last this long and stay smooth ... Very impressed.
I have read through this thread with great interest. BUT... based on the fact that Mercedes did a full brake job with new rotors, when the car was with the previous owner, at 46,000 miles; I will be using the Mercedes OEM parts when we need to do them.. Yes I said when...
Her R has over 100k on it now and still hasn't needed brakes. No vibration either.. just tons of dust as usual... I have not seen an OEM brake set up last this long and stay smooth ... Very impressed.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 118
From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
whats the difference? why 330 or 350? My wife has the car. I am trying to look it up for pricing.
I have a 2008 r350 4wd standard wheels. I can't find why its 1 or the other. I see now about the rotors. When I read it the first time I was thinking of the rotors that are slotted. I now understand its whether the rotor is a solid disc or has the air gap in the center. like 2 discs put together with a space. I don't recall either way on venting.
I have a 2008 r350 4wd standard wheels. I can't find why its 1 or the other. I see now about the rotors. When I read it the first time I was thinking of the rotors that are slotted. I now understand its whether the rotor is a solid disc or has the air gap in the center. like 2 discs put together with a space. I don't recall either way on venting.
Banned
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 149
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This is a common theme with European manufacturers. They will use various brake set-ups within the same model making it kind of tricky to order parts without knowing the exact specs. My previous Jaguar was the same way. BMW's too.
I have read through this thread with great interest. BUT... based on the fact that Mercedes did a full brake job with new rotors, when the car was with the previous owner, at 46,000 miles; I will be using the Mercedes OEM parts when we need to do them.. Yes I said when...
Her R has over 100k on it now and still hasn't needed brakes. No vibration either.. just tons of dust as usual... I have not seen an OEM brake set up last this long and stay smooth ... Very impressed.
I have read through this thread with great interest. BUT... based on the fact that Mercedes did a full brake job with new rotors, when the car was with the previous owner, at 46,000 miles; I will be using the Mercedes OEM parts when we need to do them.. Yes I said when...
Her R has over 100k on it now and still hasn't needed brakes. No vibration either.. just tons of dust as usual... I have not seen an OEM brake set up last this long and stay smooth ... Very impressed.
Vented rotors are when they have the 2 discs with a space as you say. Slotted is when they have the visible radial or angles grooves on the face. The difference between 330 or 350 is 20mm - more than 3/4". You need to know which type of rotor you have because they might not fit with your calliper. The vented rotors are thicker than the solid and therefore the calliper may not open or close enough with the wrong one. A rotor that's too large in diameter may rub on the calliper or one that is too small might result in the pads hanging of the edge.
I guess its another reason mb does what they do to keep people coming back to the dealership. I am honestly not 100% sure this isn't just a censer issue because one of the mail reasons I did the last oil change and tire rotation was to inspect. Of course it was my first time with the lug BOLTS so the only thing I can think is maybe that first tire I removed I didnt check the back or inside pad on the rotor. I will review it this weekend.
Thanks as always
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
I suspect that the diameters coincide with whether or not they are vented or solid.
The reason why MB chose one or the other, I think, is just an option. Most 7-passenger MBs with rear airbags came with the vented rotors because it is more of a heavy-duty setup, and also a more expensive setup - at least this was the case in Canada.
The reason why MB chose one or the other, I think, is just an option. Most 7-passenger MBs with rear airbags came with the vented rotors because it is more of a heavy-duty setup, and also a more expensive setup - at least this was the case in Canada.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
I just looked at the rotor options available, and it appears that all rear rotors are 330mm whether vented or not. The front rotors are all vented, I didn't see any solid options. They appear to have a 330 or 350mm option, but according to Centric Brakes they are interchangeable.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
Okay - one more post - it got me wondering, so I took some measurements. I have 330mm rotors on the front, and based on that, in order to put 350's on I would need 10mm clearance between the calliper/bracket and the rotor OD - which I do not. I just used a 10mm allen key to see if it would fit in the gap, but it is shy by about 1 - 2mm.
Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 123
Likes: 11
From: Brooklyn, NY
2006 R500
I'm fairly sure that the cars that have rear solid rotors use 330mm front rotors, while the cars that use the vented rear rotors use the 350mm fronts. they are not interchangeable without swapping out the calipers as well.
Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 123
Likes: 11
From: Brooklyn, NY
2006 R500
I was fairly sure but now you've shown me otherwise. back when I was researching the brakes on my r500 that was what I came up with as the 2 different possible configurations for 06 at least, but I guess mercedes hasn't been so consistent with what they use on these cars so it's probably best to identify exactly what is on each individual car to be sure. as an example my r500 was supposed to have 350mm fronts and vented rears but it was an early model and winded up having solid rears and 330mm fronts like an r350
Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 229
Likes: 14
From: Akron, OH
2006 R350
Like I said.... LOL.... Mercedes isn't the only one that does this...
Need to physically check what is there before ordering.
The minute you think there is a pattern, someone has a differing setup...
I'm servicing ours Saturday so I will inspect them, but this may be the first used car I have ever had that hasn't needed a brake service while I've had it.... Since it probably is only going to be with us for another year or so.
Need to physically check what is there before ordering.
The minute you think there is a pattern, someone has a differing setup...
I'm servicing ours Saturday so I will inspect them, but this may be the first used car I have ever had that hasn't needed a brake service while I've had it.... Since it probably is only going to be with us for another year or so.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2015
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R350
Thank you
Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 229
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From: Akron, OH
2006 R350
102,000 miles and it still doesn't need brakes... or ball joints..... or any hoses.....
I know the 2006 gets a bad rap but seriously... every time I crawl around this almost 10 year old rust belt car, it just amazes me....
I do have an issue to fix.... a cd got stuck and won't eject from the player... Oh nooooo, she has to listen to an i-pod or the radio until I can get around to it.
I know, I'm jinxing myself... but despite the funky looks, I really have grown to love this silly thing.
Back on topic...
When choosing brakes I would seriously consider using the OEM parts based on how well they have worn on ours.
I know the 2006 gets a bad rap but seriously... every time I crawl around this almost 10 year old rust belt car, it just amazes me....
I do have an issue to fix.... a cd got stuck and won't eject from the player... Oh nooooo, she has to listen to an i-pod or the radio until I can get around to it.
I know, I'm jinxing myself... but despite the funky looks, I really have grown to love this silly thing.
Back on topic...
When choosing brakes I would seriously consider using the OEM parts based on how well they have worn on ours.
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Joined: Jun 2015
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So for the record. It stopped raining long enough for me to check it out. Vented from 330 and solid rear. 2008 4matic r350 rear leveling only.
So there is that. I havent looked to far into the brakes themselves. They still seem ok from what I can see, but that doesnt include the inside pad. I also have not seen a mb full thick new pad. From the 30-40 brakes I have done I would say the pads look some where between 40 to 60 percent.
I read the op said one sensor was on the front pass and clear to see was tripped. So is that the only one? Not sure I read his discovery of the rear. Is it criss cross or both pass or just the front.
I am going to start pricing each part. I will take oem into consideration. I understand your point jeff, but I am not putting them into a car with low miles. At 104k I am hoping to get 60k before needing to make a vehicle decision. If its trouble free and in good shape more or less if needed. I will try and determine mileage per price. I like the idea of buying new rotors and getting the old ones cut. If I needed to do the brakes again I will only need to buy pads.
So I will do some research and reread the op, but I am trying to first develope a part list. Needed and recommended.
Rotors, pads sensors are all musts. In recent jobs the metal parts shims or whatever they are called came with the pads. Even some grease. The last 2 times I purchased them separately and had to return.
What eles should be considered to replace. I am set one flushing/bleeding I open and bleed the fluid close to the calipers. I wouldnt say I replace it all but I try and bleed out some and wait to replace until I finish.
So there is that. I havent looked to far into the brakes themselves. They still seem ok from what I can see, but that doesnt include the inside pad. I also have not seen a mb full thick new pad. From the 30-40 brakes I have done I would say the pads look some where between 40 to 60 percent.
I read the op said one sensor was on the front pass and clear to see was tripped. So is that the only one? Not sure I read his discovery of the rear. Is it criss cross or both pass or just the front.
I am going to start pricing each part. I will take oem into consideration. I understand your point jeff, but I am not putting them into a car with low miles. At 104k I am hoping to get 60k before needing to make a vehicle decision. If its trouble free and in good shape more or less if needed. I will try and determine mileage per price. I like the idea of buying new rotors and getting the old ones cut. If I needed to do the brakes again I will only need to buy pads.
So I will do some research and reread the op, but I am trying to first develope a part list. Needed and recommended.
Rotors, pads sensors are all musts. In recent jobs the metal parts shims or whatever they are called came with the pads. Even some grease. The last 2 times I purchased them separately and had to return.
What eles should be considered to replace. I am set one flushing/bleeding I open and bleed the fluid close to the calipers. I wouldnt say I replace it all but I try and bleed out some and wait to replace until I finish.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 118
From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
You may want to inspect the brake flex lines on the front around the steering knuckle. There may be some chaffing or splitting of the outer casing and therefore you may want to replace them too. Also a good idea to buy the locating screws for the rotors because sometimes they get seized and you might have to drill them out. They're not critical, but they keep the rotor from spinning on the hub when you're trying to align the wheel stud holes. They're a softer metal so the heads often strip or they might be missing altogether.
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 938
Likes: 53
From: Montreal, Canada
2005 C240 2011 R350
BTW MB star system says to replace the self locking caliper bolts...
Anyone do this? I just use locktite.. would be good to investigate this.
But in my 40 years of car maintenance I have never put new bolts, nor have I had a set of calipers get loose...
Anyone do this? I just use locktite.. would be good to investigate this.
But in my 40 years of car maintenance I have never put new bolts, nor have I had a set of calipers get loose...
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 938
Likes: 53
From: Montreal, Canada
2005 C240 2011 R350
and for brake disk/pad wear and life. It will depend a lot on the type of driving you do.
My previous 2008 fronts where still good when I sold it, they had over 120K km on them.
The rears I changed at 160Km. I did mainly highway driving.
Yet my recently acquired 2011 has only 40K km and rears need replacing soon. I know it was a city car.
My previous 2008 fronts where still good when I sold it, they had over 120K km on them.
The rears I changed at 160Km. I did mainly highway driving.
Yet my recently acquired 2011 has only 40K km and rears need replacing soon. I know it was a city car.
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Joined: Jun 2015
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Can anyone help me estimate pad depth? I cant see the inside pad, but the outside pads all appear to have enough left. They have not gotten to the full pad yet. Meaning the pads are made with the edges graded or sloped. As the pad wears it works its way down and at some point the pad has been worn to where the whole pad is contacting the rotor. I can see what looks like 3/8 almost a quarter inch of pad. The sensor is tripped. I can see the rear pass one but not the front. Not sure if its time to replace.
Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 123
Likes: 11
From: Brooklyn, NY
2006 R500
if you're going to replace the rotors anyway then I' say it's fine to start slowly collecting your parts and you should be able to get at least a month out of them after the sensor touches. I got over 2 months out of mine after the sensor triggered before they started to actually touch metal to metal and I do at least 60 city miles a day with abusive braking. if/when it does actually start to touch metal to metal believe me you'll know. also, if it does start to touch metal to metal then you really should stop driving it because first of all that metal dust is pretty nasty stuff and secondly at that point you start to run the risk of damaging a caliper... I drove mine for well over a month past metal to metal and yeah, that will do some damage, but until then you really can buy some time with it
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Joined: Jun 2015
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if you're going to replace the rotors anyway then I' say it's fine to start slowly collecting your parts and you should be able to get at least a month out of them after the sensor touches. I got over 2 months out of mine after the sensor triggered before they started to actually touch metal to metal and I do at least 60 city miles a day with abusive braking. if/when it does actually start to touch metal to metal believe me you'll know. also, if it does start to touch metal to metal then you really should stop driving it because first of all that metal dust is pretty nasty stuff and secondly at that point you start to run the risk of damaging a caliper... I drove mine for well over a month past metal to metal and yeah, that will do some damage, but until then you really can buy some time with it
