Would someone please point me to a schematic of the AIRMATIC suspension system.
Thanks

 

what are you looking for? any symptoms? codes? I have alldatadiy... no "full schematic" but lots of info... for a 2008

 

I also have alldatadiy but i find no mention of the airmatic system at all. the problem i am having is that the car is maxed out , lifted all four corners. It will not come down. I have released the air by opening the ports on the distribution box. But when i restarted the car, it rasied right back up. again, all four corners.

 

Your fragmenting your thread and giving contradictary information. Your other thread says the back end of the vehicle is too high. This thread says both.

The system is very sinple. There is a sensor for the height. 1 or 2 in the back, 2 in the front. If any one of the sensors call for air, the compressor turns on and the corresponding distribution block port(s) open. If it needs to purge air, the ports open but the compressor turns off

The only mechanical parts are:
There are (2) orange 40A fuses in the fuse box
There is a green relay
compressor
Exhaust and muffler for the compressor
Distribution block
3 or 4 sensors
The tube between the distritubion block and the compressor
The tubes that run to the airspring
The air springs.

The only other compoenents are the electrical control systems. Any diagnostic of that will requrie the tester

Your trying to make more of the system than there is.

 

I thought that only the rear was up. After exhausting all four corners and turning it back on, all four corners raised "way" up. The rear has more travel and lifts much higher than the front.
I have been told there is an "elevation sensor". This item has a part number 6511180100. I would like to locate this senor and see that it is not unplugged or visibly damaged. there are also 4 wheel level sensors. Can you tell me where this elevation sensor is please?

 

Wsmcycle, maybe it will be helpful to post some photos of the car, so people can see the actual height of your suspensions.

My car was one time sitting too high because the dealer forgot to bring the suspension down using the STAR computer after the replacement of my airmatic compressor.

 

I am new to this site and mot sure where to post a question so I will try here. I have an 2008 R350 with airmatic. My issue is at times I will find a corner of the car down. It might be the front right or left rear but doesn't do it all the time, just every so often and then maybe a few days in a row and then not do it for a week or two. I have sprayed the air bags and got no bubbles. Does anyone know how this system works and if so do you think it's the control valve with a sticking valve or what? It's so odd the dealer said they didn't know what it was but wait till its happening more often. My concern is I may burn a compressor if I wait too long.

 

There are a large number of threads about this issue. You have a leaking airspring; quite common. Everyone writes the same stuff; a corner falls off and on, looking for the leak with soap bubbles and can't find it.

If the leak is in the rear, replace both airsprings. It's very easy and takes a bout 1 hr with basic tools. Arnottindustries.com sells them for arround $170 each. If its a front corner they are about $600 each and a lot more work.

The airspring is just like a shock absorber. They need replacement just like a shock absorber. I would not recommend the MB replacement, they jsut don't seem to make a quality bladder.

I've seen some threads about a repair kit for the leaking bladder. No clue what that is about. Npo clue if it works.

While you are fixing it, replace the airmatic relay. Its about $20 from the dealer; green. It's the 2nd green relay from the left in he main fuse compartment.

You really need to fix it soon. If you don't you will eventually burn up the compressor. In my opinion you will also introduce moisture into the system which I think is the cause for the distribution block failures. The relay will likely eventually stick open or closed; the latter will burn up four pump. The leak will eventually likely burn up your pump; you'll start to hear it the pump running hard

 

thanks for the quick reply. Is there a good way to find these leaks. I was wondering if I raised the car to get the folds out if that would help thinking they might be in the fold or right at the bottom or top of the bag and hard to see the very slow leak or if it kind of seals itself in some positions. Also, if I had to replace the front should I do both or just the one leaking? Also, what is your thought on the replacement bags only on the front and reuse the strut the bag goes onto? Also, I assume I will have to do an alignment after the front replacement/s. Anything else I should know before throwing money into parts? Meaning it certainly isn't electrical or possibility of something else?

 

How many miles on your R?

The fronts seem to let go a lot sooner than the rear. That makes sense since the front is much heavier.

I'm not sure if a front end alignment would be necessary; there is an upper and alower control arm. The strut connects at the top to the fender landing and at the bottom to the control arm. There is a really good thread on the site on how to do the work. There is much more effort involved and you have to deal with the anti-sway bar so read the whole thread. It seems if you disconnect both ends it makes it easier.

The fronts are about $500 ea. You only save about $100 if you just do the airbag. I don;t know how you would just do that so i can;t speak to it. For the $100 you get a remanufactured strut too. Remember, this is a shock absorber. Its consumable. Depending on your mileage, the strut may not have a lot of life left. The dealer did the fronts on our R so I don't know how hard it is to do

 

We have about 40k miles on the R, which seems low for them to fail but then again this car has been troublesome to say the least. Was there a reason you used the dealer to perform the front replacement? I consider my pretty mechanically inclined and may tempt it but certainly wish I could find a sign of a leak before just removing the bladders at all four corners. It appears everyone seems to say do them in pairs and I have one in front and one in back that must be leaking if its not the valve.

One more question for someone. If I do replace the fronts, will I need to have the dealer calibrate this darn system? I see other post about different heights and stuff where the dealer has to calibrte/program the system at times.

 

The dealer did the front because the vehicle was still under extended warranty. They found one leaking and made the decision to replace both at that time (<60K miles). I think that says something all by itself. MB replaced the distribution block before they replaced the air-spring.

One of the issues with the MB bladder is it gets hard. When you replace the rear bladder you will find it to be hard and inflexible. The new Arnott unit will be very soft and pliable. Mileage is part of the problem, time is also part of the problem. Once the bladder hardens it becomes more susceptible to cracking/abrasion and leakage.

If you want to take a stab at finding the leak.... Raise the corner that is falling by the frame, not the control arm. This will force the bladder to extend and the car to depressurize the bladder (this is part of why the leak is hard to find). You'll see the wear and pitting of the bladder at the fold when you raise up the vehicle in the earlier step. Put something under the control arm and lower the vehicle so the control arm simulates the tire loading. This will cause the vehicle to want to rise. Open the door to wake up the vehicle and it should start to pump up. Spray the bladder with soapy water, particularly at the base of the bladder where it folds over. You have a 5000 lb weight sitting on a bladder; leaks get masked by the bladder movement and sealing against metal of the folds changing. You could also cheat and disconnect the sensor, but i personally would really shy away from that.

Recalibration is not reqjuired when you replace the bladders. Replacement/removal of the sensor WILL require recalibation.

 

Thanks for the information on how to find the leak. It certainly has to be there or I have a bigger problem somewhere else. I will give that a try this weekend and see what I can find and let you know. Thanks again and Happy holidays.