R500 Brake Pads Replacement
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
R500
R500 Brake Pads Replacement
Hit 80k miles on the R500 a few weeks ago and today the Brake Wear message came on. I'm gonna do the job myself. I've done it on Fords, BMWs and aircraft, so don't believe it will be too challenging. But I do have questions:
1. In other threads I read some discussing "Centric" brand rotors, pads & sensor. What is your experience with different brands and their qualities? Did anyone buy OEM rotors & pads from the dealer and do it yourself?
2. Most rotors have the five lug holes, the retaining bolt hole and two more located about 180 degrees apart
. Are those two additional holes threaded for use in separating the rotor from the hub? I'm not a fan of hammers 
or pry bars. What size and thread are the OEM Rotor holes?
Any recommendations based on your experience would be extremely appreciated.
1. In other threads I read some discussing "Centric" brand rotors, pads & sensor. What is your experience with different brands and their qualities? Did anyone buy OEM rotors & pads from the dealer and do it yourself?
2. Most rotors have the five lug holes, the retaining bolt hole and two more located about 180 degrees apart
. Are those two additional holes threaded for use in separating the rotor from the hub? I'm not a fan of hammers or pry bars. What size and thread are the OEM Rotor holes?Any recommendations based on your experience would be extremely appreciated.
Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 99
Likes: 1
R500
It's an easy job.
I used ceramic pads with new sensors and I replace rotors. If it's the back brakes you are doing, the rotors are too thin to turn.
I used Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors and the pads were from Monroe with the sensor included. The ceramic pads have worn like iron and no more brake dust all over the rims. No issues at all with the rotors. I have to say that I used Centric rotors on my Lexus LX and I can't say I am all that impressed. It's also a heavy vehicle. Some of the rear rotors are vented so you want to check that out.
A piece of advice, mask off the mating surfaces and non-braking services facing outward and use high temp black paint (2 or 3 very light coats) and you won;t have rusting on the rotors. Clean off with solvent before painting.
I used ceramic pads with new sensors and I replace rotors. If it's the back brakes you are doing, the rotors are too thin to turn.
I used Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors and the pads were from Monroe with the sensor included. The ceramic pads have worn like iron and no more brake dust all over the rims. No issues at all with the rotors. I have to say that I used Centric rotors on my Lexus LX and I can't say I am all that impressed. It's also a heavy vehicle. Some of the rear rotors are vented so you want to check that out.
A piece of advice, mask off the mating surfaces and non-braking services facing outward and use high temp black paint (2 or 3 very light coats) and you won;t have rusting on the rotors. Clean off with solvent before painting.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
R500
Thanks for the great tips. 
I'm doing the fronts and ended up buying OEM Rotors. They were about $94 each. I was at the dealership buying brake fluid and requested a price on the rotors. Considering a good set of after market rotors are $70ea plus shipping, this wasn't a bad deal.
I changed the rotors on a BMW 3 Series that I used to own. After a few months the steering wheel
would shake when you apply the brakes. The after market rotors heat warped. I replaced with OEM rotors and brake application was smooth again. Therefore, was not going to even consider a set of rotors at $40ea for this car.
I'll apply a few thin coats of high temp black as suggested and a thin coat of grease where the back of the disc mates with the hub.
Man, this car has been a maintenance hog since I bought it a year ago: exterior light bulbs going out, Navi LCD Monitor, Rear DVD Player, Rear suspension air bags, front brakes. Next I'm going to have to go to the dealer for trans fluid change and address a very minor leak between the power steering res and pump. The rubber tube is seeping a drop or two each time I drive. That's after buying new tooling to change oil and oil/air filters. I would rather be focused on fun stuff like HID head lights, LED lights, new wheels, etc.
I'm doing the fronts and ended up buying OEM Rotors. They were about $94 each. I was at the dealership buying brake fluid and requested a price on the rotors. Considering a good set of after market rotors are $70ea plus shipping, this wasn't a bad deal.
I changed the rotors on a BMW 3 Series that I used to own. After a few months the steering wheel
would shake when you apply the brakes. The after market rotors heat warped. I replaced with OEM rotors and brake application was smooth again. Therefore, was not going to even consider a set of rotors at $40ea for this car.I'll apply a few thin coats of high temp black as suggested and a thin coat of grease where the back of the disc mates with the hub.
Man, this car has been a maintenance hog since I bought it a year ago: exterior light bulbs going out, Navi LCD Monitor, Rear DVD Player, Rear suspension air bags, front brakes. Next I'm going to have to go to the dealer for trans fluid change and address a very minor leak between the power steering res and pump. The rubber tube is seeping a drop or two each time I drive. That's after buying new tooling to change oil and oil/air filters. I would rather be focused on fun stuff like HID head lights, LED lights, new wheels, etc.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,681
Likes: 2
From: SF
07 E63 06 CLK55 Cab 03 P-car C4S
cucucachu...how did it well your various items, and how did you resolve the power steering? my steering is a bit heavy at stationary, and a local indep topped off the reservoir, but curious what you ended up doing to resolve.
Btw, I've had my 2006 R500 since Nov 2008, so about 5.5 years thus far. Good news is majority of the time it was covered by MB extended warranty, or i'd be out probably $10k+. I've paid about $2k out of pocket, including maintenance so I think that's actually not bad considering much of it was wear/tear.
Good luck.
Patrick
Btw, I've had my 2006 R500 since Nov 2008, so about 5.5 years thus far. Good news is majority of the time it was covered by MB extended warranty, or i'd be out probably $10k+. I've paid about $2k out of pocket, including maintenance so I think that's actually not bad considering much of it was wear/tear.
Good luck.
Patrick
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
R350
Not sure of the differences between the r 500 and r350, but I can tell you the caliper bolts in our r350 were the toughest bolts I've ever removed. Pblaster and impact wrench were ineffective. Had to use propane torch and then breaker bar. If you plan on doing rotors expect some torqued down caliper bolts. OEM rotors were $85.00 each before 10% discount.
Last edited by sully916; Mar 24, 2014 at 12:44 AM.
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
R350
I wish mine had. I soaked each 21mm bolt with PBlaster, hit it with my impact wrench, breaker bar... totally frustrated. Then let it sit overnight. Came back next morning, hit each bolt with torch 30 seconds or more.... bam came right off with breaker bar.
Even with all the frustration, I would do it again and save $$ over a shop doing the work. I was quoted just under $500.00 to do the job at a local indy shop.
And now my car is sagging slightly in right rear!!! My wife thinks I'm seeing things lol
Even with all the frustration, I would do it again and save $$ over a shop doing the work. I was quoted just under $500.00 to do the job at a local indy shop.
And now my car is sagging slightly in right rear!!! My wife thinks I'm seeing things lol
Last edited by sully916; Mar 24, 2014 at 11:50 AM.
Trending Topics
Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 99
Likes: 1
R500
Measure the read that you think is sagging after you know the car has been driven and stable. That will give you a frame of reference for the future. Pull the 2 40 Amp fuses to completely disable the air system and let it sit overnight. Then measure the height in the morning. Make sure you consider household emergencies and such when you do that so you don't find yourself with a car you can't drive in an emergency.
Don't ignore air-spring leaks. They lead to distribution valve and compressor failure eventually.
Don't ignore air-spring leaks. They lead to distribution valve and compressor failure eventually.
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 99
Likes: 1
R500
The fuse box is in the engine compartment on the passenger side just behind the headlight assembly. There are two 40 amp fuses side by side. I think the left one is the compressor and the right one is the air system. Be aware, if the fuses are original, the clear plastic top may pop off. It pops back on if it does.
One other thing. When you park the vehicle and let it sit, the system is closed; meaning there is no lowering or raising of the vehicle. The vehicle changes height based on loads or speeds. So, you can leverage this information by noting if the compressor comes on when the vehicle has been off overnight.
One other thing. When you park the vehicle and let it sit, the system is closed; meaning there is no lowering or raising of the vehicle. The vehicle changes height based on loads or speeds. So, you can leverage this information by noting if the compressor comes on when the vehicle has been off overnight.
Last edited by starbound01; Mar 25, 2014 at 10:16 PM. Reason: added a note
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
R500
cucucachu...how did it well your various items, and how did you resolve the power steering? my steering is a bit heavy at stationary, and a local indep topped off the reservoir, but curious what you ended up doing to resolve.
Btw, I've had my 2006 R500 since Nov 2008, so about 5.5 years thus far. Good news is majority of the time it was covered by MB extended warranty, or i'd be out probably $10k+. I've paid about $2k out of pocket, including maintenance so I think that's actually not bad considering much of it was wear/tear.
Good luck.
Patrick
Btw, I've had my 2006 R500 since Nov 2008, so about 5.5 years thus far. Good news is majority of the time it was covered by MB extended warranty, or i'd be out probably $10k+. I've paid about $2k out of pocket, including maintenance so I think that's actually not bad considering much of it was wear/tear.
Good luck.
Patrick
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
R500
The fuse box is in the engine compartment on the passenger side just behind the headlight assembly. There are two 40 amp fuses side by side. I think the left one is the compressor and the right one is the air system. Be aware, if the fuses are original, the clear plastic top may pop off. It pops back on if it does.
One other thing. When you park the vehicle and let it sit, the system is closed; meaning there is no lowering or raising of the vehicle. The vehicle changes height based on loads or speeds. So, you can leverage this information by noting if the compressor comes on when the vehicle has been off overnight.
One other thing. When you park the vehicle and let it sit, the system is closed; meaning there is no lowering or raising of the vehicle. The vehicle changes height based on loads or speeds. So, you can leverage this information by noting if the compressor comes on when the vehicle has been off overnight.
Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 99
Likes: 1
R500
You can buy the pump for <$200 reman. or between $300-$500+ brand new; don't know what the stealer charges. It looks like a 1-2 hr job for an indy. 2-3 hr job (if you have the tools) as a DIY or a 4hr job for the stealer.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
R500
That's where it looks like it's coming from. Next, I need to figure out how to do it. Doesn't look difficult.
Last edited by Cucucachu; Apr 29, 2014 at 10:17 AM.
