W251 wheel fitment information
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: USA
CL63 AMG
The stock lines are definitely not fine, they are very mushy. Having replaced the stock lines with my upgraded SS lines from Racing brake the pedal feel is massively improved (way more so than other cars in the past). For some reaons on our cars they make a much more profound difference. Motul or Castrol SRF will also improve pedal feel even further
Also, I highly recommend uograding to the 2-piece ML63 rotors, they make such a huge difference in ride quality, acceleration, steering feel and of course braking.
Also, I highly recommend uograding to the 2-piece ML63 rotors, they make such a huge difference in ride quality, acceleration, steering feel and of course braking.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2
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E350 BLUETEC. R350 BLUETEC
Greetings gentlemen. Just purchased a 2012 BlueTec. I'm loving everything about it for the exception of the tech feeling old. But that's a small price to pay for a fabulous amount of utility and practicality.
Anyhow my reason for this post, I'd like to upgrade my wheel-tire package ASAP. Although I'd like to go 21 or 22, I want to keep the run-flat aspect; not a fan of Pirelli. So 20's it is.
I'm reading different threads and getting some conflicting information in terms of width/ETs; "10" of width with a 50 ET will work perfectly" but yet "8.5" with a 35 ET is slightly outside the fender?"
My desire is something that comes in just shy of the fender. What is the best combination to achieve this?
Note: I'd rather not drop the car at all, and it seems square setups work just fine. Is the latter correct?
Anyhow my reason for this post, I'd like to upgrade my wheel-tire package ASAP. Although I'd like to go 21 or 22, I want to keep the run-flat aspect; not a fan of Pirelli. So 20's it is.
I'm reading different threads and getting some conflicting information in terms of width/ETs; "10" of width with a 50 ET will work perfectly" but yet "8.5" with a 35 ET is slightly outside the fender?"
My desire is something that comes in just shy of the fender. What is the best combination to achieve this?
Note: I'd rather not drop the car at all, and it seems square setups work just fine. Is the latter correct?
Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 144
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2008 R320 CDI, 2006 smart fortwo cabrio, 1983 240D, 1982 300SD, 1980 300SD
I have Asanti 22X10 with 35 offset, they sit just proud of the wheel wells (stick out, a small amount nothing huge) on my R. I think 50 would be ideal it should be tucked inside just enough.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2015
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E350 BLUETEC. R350 BLUETEC
Appreciate it.
Now I gotta see what tire size is kosher. Based on the previous page I guess 265/50/20 is possible with the middle number being really attractive to me.
Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 144
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2008 R320 CDI, 2006 smart fortwo cabrio, 1983 240D, 1982 300SD, 1980 300SD
I have 265/40/22, they rub the inner plastic fender well just slightly at full lock. With more offset it would just be worse. I don't know how people can run wider tires like 285+, unless there are spacers involved. There are not many 22" sizes available in decent rubber, stay away from the "cheap" stuff, it shakes!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 92
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cars
I'm reading different threads and getting some conflicting information in terms of width/ETs; "10" of width with a 50 ET will work perfectly" but yet "8.5" with a 35 ET is slightly outside the fender?"
My desire is something that comes in just shy of the fender. What is the best combination to achieve this?
Note: I'd rather not drop the car at all, and it seems square setups work just fine. Is the latter correct?
My desire is something that comes in just shy of the fender. What is the best combination to achieve this?
Note: I'd rather not drop the car at all, and it seems square setups work just fine. Is the latter correct?
With that said, a 265/50-20 would be larger in diameter than the R63's oem 265/45-20...nothing wrong with that, especially if you like the meaty look and compliant ride that comes with it, and want to fill the wheelwell up (which, again, isn't a bad idea if you're not lowering the car).
Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 123
Likes: 11
From: Brooklyn, NY
2006 R500
The stock lines are definitely not fine, they are very mushy. Having replaced the stock lines with my upgraded SS lines from Racing brake the pedal feel is massively improved (way more so than other cars in the past). For some reaons on our cars they make a much more profound difference. Motul or Castrol SRF will also improve pedal feel even further
Also, I highly recommend uograding to the 2-piece ML63 rotors, they make such a huge difference in ride quality, acceleration, steering feel and of course braking.
Also, I highly recommend uograding to the 2-piece ML63 rotors, they make such a huge difference in ride quality, acceleration, steering feel and of course braking.
once you have really good stopping power though then you are not stepping on the pedal nearly as hard, making this improvement less of an issue, the stock lines feel great with a brake setup that has a lot of stopping power, the modulation and feel is great even with stock lines. they don't balloon to twice their size, they really make the most difference when your standing on the brakes and with a really good brake setup you don't need to stand on it, just feather it, so the lines don't really make as much difference. his being an r63 is why I said the lines aren't a huge difference in his case
far as the 2 piece rotors yeah, I've been down that road before and yeah they def do make the car feel a bit lighter on it's feet and def an improvement in handling and even ride quality, I do love them, but I do 25-30k miles a year and I've found that using 3 piece rotors in this situation just makes maintenance costs so high that the one piece rotor is a reasonable trade off. if this was more of a performance toy that sees limited use then yeah, I'd def do 3 piece rotors but with the amount of wear and tear I put my cars through I decided against that here, hell a year after installing the new rotors it's almost due for rotors again
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CLS550
2 pc rotors will improve the performance and durability.
Actually it's more worthwhile for those who drive more and put more stress and wear on their brakes for the longevity and less replacement (down time) that a 2 pc rotor can offer.
Actually it's more worthwhile for those who drive more and put more stress and wear on their brakes for the longevity and less replacement (down time) that a 2 pc rotor can offer.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 92
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cars
I test fitted a set of wheels/tires on my car a couple months back, and finally got around to uploading some pics now. Following are also some random notes:
- The wheels are Volk Racing GT-Force in 20x9.5", +25mm offset all around. Tires are Falken FK452 in 245/40-20 all around.
- The car has airmatic and is lowered using adjustable links I made. After these pics were taken I actually lowered the rear left corner an additional 1/4" to match the rear right side...so there is still a slight rake in the car's current stance, but not as pronounced as seen in these pics.
- The tires have an overall diameter of 27.7", which is about 1.8" smaller than OEM. On a non-lowered car, the wheel gap looks pretty bad. Lowered at my height, I'd consider it "acceptable," but that's subjective...
- Any negative camber seen is the natural amount from lowering the car...i.e. no post-lowering alignment adjustments were made. The rear camber curve is more aggressive than the front, so it cambers in a bit more for the same amount of lowering.
- Even without rolled/flattened fender lips, this wheel/tire setup would work as is due to the slight stretching of the tires coupled with the camber curve of the suspension. Now, if you wanted to run wider tires, and/or "correct" the camber, then a higher offset wheel would be necessary. Rolling the fenders could also afford you another few mm of clearance.
- As much I did not intend on ultimately running a stretched tire setup on this car, the way the front wheel and tire combo sat and looked in real life was VERY nice imo, and has got me a bit torn about how to build my next set of wheels, and what size tires to run etc. The 245/40/20s were used purely for test-fitting purposes, and I'd strongly recommend running something wider (and/or at least one step up in profile ratio), if anything, for the higher load rating. Luckily, there's a decent amount of inside clearance...roughly 1.5"+ in front and 2"+ in back relative to the inside edge of these wheels...so you could potentially go quite a bit wider in wheel and tire width.
- The wheels are Volk Racing GT-Force in 20x9.5", +25mm offset all around. Tires are Falken FK452 in 245/40-20 all around.
- The car has airmatic and is lowered using adjustable links I made. After these pics were taken I actually lowered the rear left corner an additional 1/4" to match the rear right side...so there is still a slight rake in the car's current stance, but not as pronounced as seen in these pics.
- The tires have an overall diameter of 27.7", which is about 1.8" smaller than OEM. On a non-lowered car, the wheel gap looks pretty bad. Lowered at my height, I'd consider it "acceptable," but that's subjective...
- Any negative camber seen is the natural amount from lowering the car...i.e. no post-lowering alignment adjustments were made. The rear camber curve is more aggressive than the front, so it cambers in a bit more for the same amount of lowering.
- Even without rolled/flattened fender lips, this wheel/tire setup would work as is due to the slight stretching of the tires coupled with the camber curve of the suspension. Now, if you wanted to run wider tires, and/or "correct" the camber, then a higher offset wheel would be necessary. Rolling the fenders could also afford you another few mm of clearance.
- As much I did not intend on ultimately running a stretched tire setup on this car, the way the front wheel and tire combo sat and looked in real life was VERY nice imo, and has got me a bit torn about how to build my next set of wheels, and what size tires to run etc. The 245/40/20s were used purely for test-fitting purposes, and I'd strongly recommend running something wider (and/or at least one step up in profile ratio), if anything, for the higher load rating. Luckily, there's a decent amount of inside clearance...roughly 1.5"+ in front and 2"+ in back relative to the inside edge of these wheels...so you could potentially go quite a bit wider in wheel and tire width.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 92
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cars
Got a new set of wheels and tires on the car...
Wheels: Rotiform SPF, Black/DDT finish, 20" diameter, 10" width, +25mm offset
Tires: Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3, 305/35R20
Specs are same front and rear.
Wheels: Rotiform SPF, Black/DDT finish, 20" diameter, 10" width, +25mm offset
Tires: Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3, 305/35R20
Specs are same front and rear.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
2008 R320 CDI
well, I didn't want this thread to die just yet.. so here's some pics of an R with 22x10.5" Vossen wheels. unfortunately, there's no real fitment info available, and even vossen does not provide any offset numbers on their own site (further proof that american-based wheel companies are horrible at educating and informing the US market about fitment). from a cursory web search, I believe the wheels are probably about +42mm offset. And considering the slight stretch and semi-meaty profile of the tires, I'd guess they are probably a 265/35-22
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2009
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cars
Vossen's web site does list them as coming in a 22x10.5" size, but that might just be in a 5x114.3mm bolt pattern only. It's not too hard/costly to redrill them to work with our 5x112mm bolt pattern. I'd personally recommend going wider than 9" for an R if you can. There's also a lot of other companies that offer a wheel very similar to those Vossen CV3s (probably all coming from the same manufacturer and rebranded differently), so you can look around to find the exact one you want at the best price that works for you...
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Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 72
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
2015 Cadilac Escalade ESV, 2010 MB R350 Diesel
GPS speed vs. speedometer and tire size
Just got my new to me 2010 R350 Bluetec. On the way home I noticed right away that the speedometer was reading a speed way higher than I was actually going. It is riding right now on a set of winter tires, 255/55R18's which are identical in circumference than the OEM size 255/50R19. At 124kmh on the speedometer I'm actually traveling 119kmh. I had a brand new GLA in the shop for maintenance, and during road test, it had the same speedometer issue.
I plan to put a set of 265/50R20's on this rig with new rims.
Rim Width: 20X9.5
Offset: +48
Bolt Pattern: 5x112
Hub Bore: 66.56
Will this set-up work for fender clearance, as they will make the car travel at exactly the speed that the speedometer says. I always drive 19kmh over speed limit at which point the police leave you alone. Would this increased diameter negatively affect the performance of the car?
Thanks
I plan to put a set of 265/50R20's on this rig with new rims.
Rim Width: 20X9.5
Offset: +48
Bolt Pattern: 5x112
Hub Bore: 66.56
Will this set-up work for fender clearance, as they will make the car travel at exactly the speed that the speedometer says. I always drive 19kmh over speed limit at which point the police leave you alone. Would this increased diameter negatively affect the performance of the car?
Thanks
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 92
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cars
I finally got around to building a set of wheels I'd been sitting on for a while, and put them on my R recently. Following are the specs:
SSR Agle Strusse (originally 19" stepped up to 20"), metallic silver windows with diamond cut face and satin black inside and outside lips, original bolts refinished in black zinc with new gold zinc nuts
Front: 20x11", +67mm offset, lo disk (20mm spacer added to clear big calipers, bringing effective offset to +47mm)
Rear: 20x11", +42mm offset, lo disk
Tires: Nitto NT555 G2 305/35 ZR 20 (same size front and rear)
Junior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 37
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2007 R350, 2002 CLK55
My wife's 2007 R350 4matic is needing tires. Always wanted to upgrade the wheels, so this maybe the right time. Any recommendations on sources? I am in Greater Los Angeles (San Fernando Valley). Also, if anyone has set of good rims they want to sell I am interested, feel free to PM me.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
2006 R500
Brake upgrade fitment
I know this thread is old but I stumbled across it on the Google as I’m looking for idea on wheel and brake fitment upgrades for my new (2006) R500 family car.sorry I’m new to the euro cars; been doing Lexus and Nissan to this point. I’ve done a few oem brake upgrades using Supra brakes on my 2 Lexus and doing the skyline conversion on my 180sx and s-chassis in the past.
I was curious about the brake upgrade. Was it a direct fit for the caliper mount and brake lines or was there some massive changes?
what year Calipers should I be looking for to do this mod? I’m looking for a direct swap type nothing too crazy that I need to retrofit.
any insight is appreciated
I was curious about the brake upgrade. Was it a direct fit for the caliper mount and brake lines or was there some massive changes?
what year Calipers should I be looking for to do this mod? I’m looking for a direct swap type nothing too crazy that I need to retrofit.
any insight is appreciated
yeah, the fx has a slightly larger wheel well, the fx comes with 30.4" diameter wheel stock, the R is 29"... they are very similar but the R opening is slightly smaller
I was originally going to do the R63 brake upgrade, found a full set up in canada from an ML63 but instead I decided to go with brembo 8 piston monoblock front and 4 piston rears. the aluminum fixed mount calipers are lighter and dissipate heat better and have more stopping power. the ML63 brakes would have just bolted on though, instead these took some custom work to fit to the R
the reason mercedes went with the heavier cast caliper mount floaters on the R63 and older ML's and even the new AMG S class is for silence, the fixed mount Brembo's tend to squeal and squeak and can be more prone to pedal pulsations but the stopping power is just insane and they are much lighter
I used the new model ML63 rotors front and rear, 15.4" front and 13.8" rear, factory cross drilled and slotted... the calipers were originally from an S55 AMG, mercedes used Brembo GT80 front/GT40 rears on the big AMG cars for a few years, 03-06... absolutely killer brakes... on the SL65 with P31 option they even used 2 piece rotors but I decided to go with the 1 piece ML63 rotors for the same reason I stayed with 20's instead of 22's, less headaches on a daily driver... I've also done the whole 2 piece rotor thing on the fx and while they are really great for reducing unsprung mass and rotating weight they are also a bit finicky and high maintenance items, less than ideal for a daily driver that see's over 25K miles a year
I originally did the calipers in a very low key gold color but I think that got a little boring and would really kind of hide the brakes, so I just recently redid them in red like the new ML63's... still haven't labeled them yet, torn between either Brembo decals or AMG decals... they just look too generic with no text label. I think either AMG or Brembo would both be acceptable because that's what they really are, but I'm not into all that poser crap so I'm not sure which I really want to do. I would leave them naked but they just don't look right big red bold and naked
I also raised the rear back up ~1/2", was starting to really ride choppy especially when self lowering at high speeds, now at this height it rides great again, to go any lower and still ride great I've got to do some more suspension mods... not sure if I even want to, I think visually it doesn't look like it "needs" to be any lower than this, might play with suspension more some time in the future but for now I'm happy with it's stance I guess. for me best way to judge visually whether a car needs to be lowered more is by looking at it from a distance, I think this one now doesn't look like it's sitting too high. it might with 22's but the taller 20's really stuff the wheel wells nicely and it rides really nicely. I've done the whole low pro slammed choppy riding thing too many times in the past, I think I'm just getting too old though cause now I want comfort and to drive really fast without bouncing out of my seat and hitting my head on the sunroof
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I was originally going to do the R63 brake upgrade, found a full set up in canada from an ML63 but instead I decided to go with brembo 8 piston monoblock front and 4 piston rears. the aluminum fixed mount calipers are lighter and dissipate heat better and have more stopping power. the ML63 brakes would have just bolted on though, instead these took some custom work to fit to the R
the reason mercedes went with the heavier cast caliper mount floaters on the R63 and older ML's and even the new AMG S class is for silence, the fixed mount Brembo's tend to squeal and squeak and can be more prone to pedal pulsations but the stopping power is just insane and they are much lighter
I used the new model ML63 rotors front and rear, 15.4" front and 13.8" rear, factory cross drilled and slotted... the calipers were originally from an S55 AMG, mercedes used Brembo GT80 front/GT40 rears on the big AMG cars for a few years, 03-06... absolutely killer brakes... on the SL65 with P31 option they even used 2 piece rotors but I decided to go with the 1 piece ML63 rotors for the same reason I stayed with 20's instead of 22's, less headaches on a daily driver... I've also done the whole 2 piece rotor thing on the fx and while they are really great for reducing unsprung mass and rotating weight they are also a bit finicky and high maintenance items, less than ideal for a daily driver that see's over 25K miles a year
I originally did the calipers in a very low key gold color but I think that got a little boring and would really kind of hide the brakes, so I just recently redid them in red like the new ML63's... still haven't labeled them yet, torn between either Brembo decals or AMG decals... they just look too generic with no text label. I think either AMG or Brembo would both be acceptable because that's what they really are, but I'm not into all that poser crap so I'm not sure which I really want to do. I would leave them naked but they just don't look right big red bold and naked
I also raised the rear back up ~1/2", was starting to really ride choppy especially when self lowering at high speeds, now at this height it rides great again, to go any lower and still ride great I've got to do some more suspension mods... not sure if I even want to, I think visually it doesn't look like it "needs" to be any lower than this, might play with suspension more some time in the future but for now I'm happy with it's stance I guess. for me best way to judge visually whether a car needs to be lowered more is by looking at it from a distance, I think this one now doesn't look like it's sitting too high. it might with 22's but the taller 20's really stuff the wheel wells nicely and it rides really nicely. I've done the whole low pro slammed choppy riding thing too many times in the past, I think I'm just getting too old though cause now I want comfort and to drive really fast without bouncing out of my seat and hitting my head on the sunroof
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