2008 r350 gas door lock issue
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2008 r350 gas door lock issue
I was washing and then working on vaccum and some carpet cleaning. My daughter was climbing around and without the key in the ignition the radio came on. I am not sure if she did somthing or not, she was touch and pushing buttons and stuff. So then I began finishing and closing doors when I noticed one of the doors ( I think the rear drivers side) sounded like it was either trying to unlock or lock. I locked the doors and it stoped. I went for a ride and while driving the doors wouldnt lock and when I locked them manually and approached a light they unlocked.
I tried looking this up and will proceed to do so but figured one of you scholars may know. Thanks
I tried looking this up and will proceed to do so but figured one of you scholars may know. Thanks
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
Sorry. I haven't had an issue like this before. Two thoughts though:
1. Have you tried disconnecting the battery?
2. My old ML320 auto-locking was controlled by the central lock button - I don't remember exactly, but with the key in a certain position, hold down the lock button for 5 seconds and this would change the lock settings.
1. Have you tried disconnecting the battery?
2. My old ML320 auto-locking was controlled by the central lock button - I don't remember exactly, but with the key in a certain position, hold down the lock button for 5 seconds and this would change the lock settings.
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its working just fine now. It seemed just to odd for a parking bulb to go out and it somehow effect the locks. I thought it was 2 separate things. or that my daughter had done something like holding buttons and such. So while I searched for a solution to the door locks I bought new bulbs. Still hoping to find a solution I figured I would replace the bulb and keep checking. I was searching for the fuse for the door locks.
I switched bulbs, started the car and shut it off. When I restarted it everything was normal. So unless it just arrived, by chance, and left at the same time I would say it was the bulb.
The only thing I can think of is that the parking lights are tied to the auto locks and such. Like when you lock the doors the parking lights flash. So maybe when the system alerted that the bulb was out it also left a circuit open or closed causing the computer to over react.
I bought the cheaper bulb at oreilys. one was 5 the other was 10. I can not tell the difference. I was going to replace both but figured that would leave me with a used bulb I would probably lose or forget. So I have another for when the other goes out.
I switched bulbs, started the car and shut it off. When I restarted it everything was normal. So unless it just arrived, by chance, and left at the same time I would say it was the bulb.
The only thing I can think of is that the parking lights are tied to the auto locks and such. Like when you lock the doors the parking lights flash. So maybe when the system alerted that the bulb was out it also left a circuit open or closed causing the computer to over react.
I bought the cheaper bulb at oreilys. one was 5 the other was 10. I can not tell the difference. I was going to replace both but figured that would leave me with a used bulb I would probably lose or forget. So I have another for when the other goes out.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
It's possible - maybe an overcorrect or something goofing with the electronics.
On my ML, I wired in an aftermarket trailer harness once, and it affected my ESP. All kinds of wacky stuff with my brakes and steering.
Glad to hear you got your problem resolved.
BTW, whenever I replace bulbs and fuses, I put a tiny dab of dielectric grease on each contact to make sure no corrosion occurs or any arcing. This simple step can prevent a lot of electrical/electronic gremlins. It's an absolute must on motorcycles.
On my ML, I wired in an aftermarket trailer harness once, and it affected my ESP. All kinds of wacky stuff with my brakes and steering.
Glad to hear you got your problem resolved.
BTW, whenever I replace bulbs and fuses, I put a tiny dab of dielectric grease on each contact to make sure no corrosion occurs or any arcing. This simple step can prevent a lot of electrical/electronic gremlins. It's an absolute must on motorcycles.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
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From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
You can get a tube of Permatex for about $5 - $10 and it will last you for years. Unlike regular grease dielectric grease conducts electricity and therefore works as an excellent corrosion inhibitor and gap filler in electrical contacts.
This is beneficial because sometimes poor fitting bulbs, connectors, and fuses can cause little arcs that can produce heat, material displacement, electrical noise, and moisture entrapment. Just be careful not to glob it on such that you create a short.
This is beneficial because sometimes poor fitting bulbs, connectors, and fuses can cause little arcs that can produce heat, material displacement, electrical noise, and moisture entrapment. Just be careful not to glob it on such that you create a short.
Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 229
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From: Akron, OH
2006 R350
You can get a tube of Permatex for about $5 - $10 and it will last you for years. Unlike regular grease dielectric grease conducts electricity and therefore works as an excellent corrosion inhibitor and gap filler in electrical contacts.
This is beneficial because sometimes poor fitting bulbs, connectors, and fuses can cause little arcs that can produce heat, material displacement, electrical noise, and moisture entrapment. Just be careful not to glob it on such that you create a short.
This is beneficial because sometimes poor fitting bulbs, connectors, and fuses can cause little arcs that can produce heat, material displacement, electrical noise, and moisture entrapment. Just be careful not to glob it on such that you create a short.
Dielectric Grease is not conductive. It will not break down when exposed to high current, like that present in ignition systems. It is good to help prevent corrosion on sockets... but how it does it is by sealing the area around contact. The conductive surfaces push the grease out when making contact. The grease remains around the area of contact.
http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-dielectric-grease.htm
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 118
From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
Yup, you're right. I never really questioned the original explanation I got for it years ago. Either way, definitely want to continue using it, except now I'm going to use it more liberally.
