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Hi guys,
hope to get some pointers on what to look out for here, little weird problem.
I just installed Kensun HID (LB)... everything went in fine.
I'm also using AZNOptics T10 LED's in my city lights... they've always worked great btw ...
All lights on and fine when engine is off.
But when the engine is running, the front right city light flickers for about 10 seconds, then goes off and I get a warning that my light is out. (it's fine, i've also swapped it out with 2 others and they all work fine except for this socket and only when engine is running)
Does anyone have a suggestion on what i can try to do next?
Thanks kindly in advance
Are your HID lights work okay?
If you have city lights flickering on and off then you might need load resistors for each light. Mine came with the load resistors but it sealed so I do not know the actual resistance and watts value. I believe that the load resistor is around 6 Ohm and no more 50 watts.The city light only consumes 5 Watts.
HID is working fine, THOUGH, (and i'm not 100% on this because it's still daylight) it appears to be slightly more yellow than the other side ...
Remembering that these are suppose to be 5k so i expect both bulbs to be the same ?
You've given me a quick idea though, i'm going to swap over the ballast and igniter and cancellar and see if it affects the other side...
Will report back thanks AsianR350~
HID is working fine, THOUGH, (and i'm not 100% on this because it's still daylight) it appears to be slightly more yellow than the other side ...
Remembering that these are suppose to be 5k so i expect both bulbs to be the same ?
You've given me a quick idea though, i'm going to swap over the ballast and igniter and cancellar and see if it affects the other side...
Will report back thanks AsianR350~
nope... didn't work same problem... but now both lights DO appear to be color matched lol.
But again, all lights working, start engine and THEN that city light flickers and goes off.
Just bizarre...
actually going to swap out the led for a halogen and see if problem persists.. i'm pretty sure it'd be LED related though...
nope... didn't work same problem... but now both lights DO appear to be color matched lol.
But again, all lights working, start engine and THEN that city light flickers and goes off.
Just bizarre...
actually going to swap out the led for a halogen and see if problem persists.. i'm pretty sure it'd be LED related though...
lol i found the solution... you were dead on bud, resistor (of some sort...)
i'm ghetto'ing a fix up now and i'll send pics, everyone can have a good laugh.
:P
Spliced a 'resistor' into the back of the city lights wires... i would have prefered to run a thin wire from the socket itself, out to the back, but the plug is so tight as to render that undoable.
Totally not sanctioned by Mercedes but now all lights are working great
on the plus side... my engine bay has a light now ... *cough*
Spliced a 'resistor' into the back of the city lights wires... i would have prefered to run a thin wire from the socket itself, out to the back, but the plug is so tight as to render that undoable.
Totally not sanctioned by Mercedes but now all lights are working great
on the plus side... my engine bay has a light now ... *cough*
Thanks for the link i'm going to order some as i always seem to be in need of those now and again and never have any... (hence my T10 Resistor!)
But doesn't the T10 i already had (AznOptics ones) which worked fine (no errors, no flickering till now...) , don't they have resistors built in? or just canbus no warning chips?
ie. if you add one of those resistors you linked, and can you then use ANY (ie. the non warning cancellation ones) T10 LED into the city lights?
Thanks btw for your help
Thanks for the link i'm going to order some as i always seem to be in need of those now and again and never have any... (hence my T10 Resistor!)
But doesn't the T10 i already had (AznOptics ones) which worked fine (no errors, no flickering till now...) , don't they have resistors built in? or just canbus no warning chips?
ie. if you add one of those resistors you linked, and can you then use ANY (ie. the non warning cancellation ones) T10 LED into the city lights?
Thanks btw for your help
I think so.
The load resistor just increase the current draw to fool the computer as it has OEM bulb installed.(194 to T10 bulb). The LED bulb draws very low current(140 mA).
Not yet. I haven't gotten around to it. We'll see if they work or not.
I did not think 50W resistor will consume 50 watts. It meant that it can handle up to 50 watts. The power is depend on the resistance, the higher resistance, the less current draw. P=R x I square.
That is my assumption also, but they use basically the same ones for a wide range of bulb wattages, which may potentially cause other electrical issues by letting too much current through. These ones have a little more resistance, which was basically just a guess on my part to get something that's a little more appropriate for the bulb replacement in question.
That is my assumption also, but they use basically the same ones for a wide range of bulb wattages, which may potentially cause other electrical issues by letting too much current through. These ones have a little more resistance, which was basically just a guess on my part to get something that's a little more appropriate for the bulb replacement in question.
The worst scenario, you just burn out the fuse if the current is overloaded (that is what the fuse there for).
Would definately be interested in seeing if these work especially on the little T10's (5W?) given that the other resistors are bulkier but they do come with the appropriate fixings to easily join it into the wires...
Would definately be interested in seeing if these work especially on the little T10's (5W?) given that the other resistors are bulkier but they do come with the appropriate fixings to easily join it into the wires...
My city lights (parking light) did not have any problem with sealed load esistor that I do not know the values of resistance or watts). I have problem with my license plate lights, had tried all kind of LED bulbs and still have warning bulb out (LED bulb are working fine). My guess is I have to tear down the rear hatch and install the load resistors).
I have licence plate LED's from AznOptics for my W203 and they work great except for one of the sides (just like my front city lights!~) was doing the same flickering and off.
I ended up putting a resistor on the inside of the light just like with this city light and it's been fine ever since. I think I've just being pretty unlucky (given that the other side works fine on both counts) and that the sensitivity of these vehicles and the SAM's are pretty **** about what they will pass or fail.
I'm also considering the licence plate LEDs also, but my next project will be fitting in a reverse camera but i'm not looking forward to getting the trunk panel out... lol
Just work by luck, Pete S has his 08 R350 license lights work but I bought the same bulbs which did not work on mine.
Which load resistor did you try on what lights that got too hot?