I have a 2007 R320 CDI (OM642) with a smoke issue I cannot figure out. I recently bought the car and it had some problems. It has close to 200 000 km on the odometer. I believe lack of service caused it to stop Regeneration process and when I checked it with star there was ca. 30.000km since last regen (if I understand DAS correctly).

I had already fixed damaged turbo (leaking oil into exhaust), new PCV breather pipe and glow plugs ((still have defective glow controller, after glow function works) wait 10 seconds) so I initiated a “do regen at next trip” which it did with clouds of smoke.

Now when cold there seems to be normal exhaust with no excessive smoke or strong fumes. When the engine gets warm and I get to a standstill it smokes and the fumes are really strong (like unburned fuel). The Idle are at this point a little rough but no misfire or bad noise. After a minute (maybe two) still on idle I can hear change in sound (like the EGR valve move?) and the Idle get smooth and the smoke starts to disappear. If I stop and start the engine it idles smooth and the exhaust looks and smell normal.

OK, so I have two times checked regen values with Star and it tells that it’s 0 km since last regen but also tells that driving distance since las successful regen is same as current kilometre reading. Does that mean it have not successfully finished regen? Does it actually regen every time engine get warm? If so, why? The values for Exhaust gas resirc are is not in the specified value range.

Can I do something with Star to resolve this? Can this be related to the defective glow controller? There are no error codes and the engine pulls strong.

I appreciate all info, experience and thoughts you guys might have about this “mystery”.

Youtube link showing the smoke: and
/niels

 

The 2 selected values in first screenshot (Air Mass and EGR Position) indicate out of range, and I assume is why you have them selected.
The mass-airflow (MAF) sensor and Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) work together with the Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor, to control how much exhaust to blend into the air supply.

You'll want to look for trouble codes relating to any or all of these items, to see what's indicated.

In principle, the MAP allows ECU to calculate how much blended air is present.
Subtracting the fresh air drawn in, indicated by the MAF, from the total
, gives the resulting exhaust gas which was added.
Then ECU adjusts the EGR valve to match a target value.

Make sure the MAF, MAP, and EGR harness connections are good, and look at codes.
If I had to guess, would think the MAF is bad or disconnected, but it could be any or a combination of these things misbehaving.
Perhaps EGR valve is gunked up and sticking open.
If computer doesn't sense this, it would throw the air fuel mixture too rich / not enough O2 present.

Also, a leak or failure in the boost hoses or connections can throw these calculations off.
Are you not seeing a check engine light?

 

Thank you B34chBum !

I will re-check every seal/connection but the car pulls strong with no hissing or strange sounds and there is no trouble codes and the check engine light is off, like everything is ok.

I will look for more tests I can try with Star. The 220 gas exhaust recirculation positioner values are off and I will try to find out why. Any suggestions ?

/niels aka rabba aka nielsnorway

 

Getting to the EGR valve is awkward (remove strut tower brace and maybe even windshield rain tray), I haven't removed mine to inspect before - but I haven't seen problem with out of range on it...
If it is coked up badly enough it could impede movement, or at least restrict EGR flow.

I can tell you, if you want to disassemble the blending portion on front of engine, you will want to get the selection of o-rings and gaskets for each joint that comes apart.
There are many, but is possible to do only the ones where the assembly connects to the 2 intake manifolds (they are different from each other), plus the one for EGR into the blender underneath.
No worries about the one on the hose from intercooler, it doesn't have to be replaced each time like the others should
I have read/seen pictures of the EGR pipe in and after the cooler getting completely plugged, but again, you have code on the valve position, so probably is not this.

Good luck!

 

Thanks for followup!

Checked EGR pipe and It’s fine, just a Little carbon buildup which I removed earlier when I replaced the turbo. Yesterday I removed the EGR valve (brace off – rain tray in place). It came off quite easy and looked ok, just a little carbon sludge. I testet the valve out in the open with Star and the valve opened and closed. I also opened the actuator but everything looked ok inside so I cleaned it up and put it together. What I suspect defective is the positioner circuit inside the actuator. I don’t know how to check it. The only test I know of is the «automatic test of exhaust recirculation» but It’s with running engine. I have run that test and it shows to high lambda values at 50 and 95% actuation.

I have also tried to trigger regeneration when driving using Star and it fails! Exhaust temp reaches maximun 300 degrees celsius! Can this be because glow plug controller is defect? BMW and other need operating glowplugs to regen. Mine work at afterglow stage but not at stage one (I have to wait 10+ seconds before I start the engine). I think because of this it tries to regenerate everytime I drive, hence «9024 Mileage at last particulate filter regeneration»

I will continue to check harness and sensors and look for codes.

 

It makes sense the regen would be disabled if you're getting too much exhaust in the blend.
(The additional fuel from the regen operation would not burn well / hot enough to clean the DPF, might only clog it up worse.)
It looks like the reported lambda is .50 not 50 (Correct?)

Ideally, you could test with a known-good EGR valve actuator. (I didn't realize they are 2 separate units)
It is located in a hot area, I guess I could see it failing...
From everything you've posted it really does look like this is the culprit.
Maybe worth grabbing one off eBay-used, or the stealer-new.

Re-reading whole thread - the regen worked early on, but not now.
Did the smoke issue begin only after your early work (turbo, pcv), or has it been there since you've owned?

 

Just a quick info about the EGR valve. I lent the EGR valve from my sons E320 and Star show exactly the same (actual value:5, Specified value:>=20.0) STRANGE

BTW EGR valve and actuator is one unit, I described as two because of two functions, one actuator and one position sensor.

I lent my sons glowplug controller also. It didn't do much except confirm that my is defective in stage one. With his the car starts right up. I have ordered new.

One thing I cannot understand is that temp stops at 292.3 celsius. From lower reading I rev the engine and temp rises gradually but stops dead at 292.3 continuing revving. Temp sensor check tells it's ok.

 

I have been thinking..

Since I recently bought this car and know little about it anything can have ben done to it. So, what if EGR is already deleted/disabled? What are the symptoms? I found info on the net that EGR valve position stays at 5%. I need to hook up Star and see if it change when I rev det engine.

I found out the car has been badly serviced. When I test drove it was ok but shortly after I bought the car it starts to smoke badly with a damaged turbo leaking oil into the exhaust. At the time Star told that last regeneration was ca. 30.000km ago. This could clog up the DPF but values showing in Star tells like everything is ok. I activated regen at next drive and it really tried to regen, at least partly bacause of all the clouds of smoke. IF the EGR is deleted maybe this cause the system not to complete regen? Does OM642 need working EGR for regen?

Maybe I should try this in Star:developer:Actuations:Routine stoppen:Sofortregeneration DPF/KAT or Actuations:Sofortregeneration Regeneration verhindern. I even looked for new welds on the DPF because I don't know if it have been opened and is empty.

 

Oh, wow.
I was reading actual vs. specified backward - sorry!
So test shows excess airflow and not enough exhaust?
Is this during warm-up period (engine is cold)?

If so is possible (likely?) the EGR circuit between the valve and the mixer at front of engine is blocked.
(Blockage in the EGR cooler passage, before the shiny pipe under the blend valve in front of the intake manifolds).
If the blend assembly is off the front of motor, the intakes and the post-cooler EGR pipe would be exposed - you could run a 1 inch bottle brush back toward the cooler and see what you get out.
Or maybe pull the EGR valve too and try blowing air through the cooler to check if it's really plugged up.

?Maybe possible to run a de-greasing fluid or solvent through the EGR cooler to flush gunk out to front (blending assembly off of course!)?
This would get very messy, very fast! If is a mix of oil and exhaust this is dusty and gooey in turns and sticks to everything.

You're talking about the exhaust temperature, right?
You won't see that temperature really go high unless under load, like pulling a hill or accelerating hard.
I had to convert to Fahrenheit (500 degrees) to put in perspective...

 

First of all the EGR injector on the intake pipe is a common problem on this engine and MB released a service bulletin to clean the port every 40k miles. It's very easy to take it off just a few bolts. Give it a try.

The EGR and DPF can be easily visualized. There's an EGR cooler under the fuel filter you can look down after removing the engine cover. If the EGR cooler is not present then the EGR has been deleted. The DPF is even easier just jack/lift the car up and look for the DPF from bottom.

If the EGR and DPF are both present you can try to initiate a DPF regen from the Star see if it works.

 

EGR Injector / pipe Geniusshanbiao mentions is what I was calling shiny pipe under the blender assembly at front of motor.

It can be pulled off of the intake assembly by itself, after you get the serpentine belt off.
You can check that the pipe itself is clear, but I've seen posts where system is clogged upstream in or under the cooler.
The thing is, the visibility isn't great if the turbo pipes to intercooler, and the assembly for blending air and exhaust, are all still in place.

"EGR Delete" isn't necessarily a hardware change, is also often software-only delete - or software and blocking plates.
With this motor the cooler often remains after a delete.

 

I don't think you need to pull the belt off to get the pipe out. I have done that on my 2012 and 2015 never had to disengage the belt but I know there might be version difference on OM642.
The vision issue can be resolved if you have an endoscope/inspection camera. No need to get those fancy ones just a $20 piece that works with your smart phone would work.

 

Good point - I ought to get one and try it out!

 

Thank you all for your follow-up’s.

I have found out that the car already had a tune with EGR and DPF delete. With camera I found the DPF empty. I just put a new tune in the car with stage-1 + EGR and DPF delete. There are no error codes. The problem is that the ECU still initiate a regeneration even with DPF deleted. Is there a switch or a flag in the ECU setting the tuners maybe overlooked? If I activate the :Actuations:Sofortregeneration Regeneration verhindern with DAS/Developer the car works like it should but after new start of engine the problem are back.

My ECU have Bosch EDC16CP31

Should the tuner guys have done something to ensure this procedure to be deactivated?

 

Hi! Could anyone give me steps to force a DPF regeneration with Xentry Star?

thank you!ML320 CDI W164 2007

VIN: WDC1641222A291733

ENGINE NO: 64294040437367

 

Dear rabba,
I recently purchased a W211 E280 CDI (OM642 engine). I am writing you, because I have exactly the same problem as you had in this thread. I get engine limp mode and codes 2355 and 2511 short time after engine start. I also discovered that probably the previous owner has done a DPF delete, because the filter is not present and I can see a welded cut line on top of DPF can. Did you manage to deal with this problem and how? Your advice would help me greatly.
Best regards.

 

Hello rabba, what was your fix? I have come across the exact issue with my car that has a stage 1 tune with dpf, egr, and swirl flap delete but still goes into regen. Please let me know

 

O-ring missing makes my horrible reading

 

Fixed- Do a return fuel line test. I had one injector returning to much fuel and one not enough compared to the average. I Pick up some clear fuel line and used empty water bottles. Be gentle with the return fuel line clips and make sure they don’t leak when you put them back on. I must say it was very weird to have this smoking issue come and go like it was regenerating when it was just two bad injectors. Now chasing down a limp home issue… yay!