Electrical problems R350
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Newbie
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 3
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R350
Electrical problems R350
I have a 2007 R350, my wife was driving home from work and lightening struck near the car which caused the engine to shut down. The headlights remained on and the engine fan continued to run. The dash lights remained on the door locks, horn and all other electrical components along with the key fob were unresponsive.
After an hour or two of trying to figure out how to get the vehicle started again with no luck, I had it towed home. The lights and fan remained on for several hours until the battery went dead. The next morning, I fully recharged the battery. Now the only thing the vehicle does is display
“Drive to service work shop, without shifting gears” +185.
While attempting to troubleshoot, the keys don’t have any effect on the car, no dash lights no horn, no door locks the only thing that seems to work is the radio for about 30 seconds and then it shuts off.
I checked every fuse in every fuse box. There’s no sign of burnt circuitry. The starter and all fuse boxes show 12 volts at the main inputs.
I’d appreciate any suggestions. I called the closest MB service center, they didn’t seem to have any answers.
After an hour or two of trying to figure out how to get the vehicle started again with no luck, I had it towed home. The lights and fan remained on for several hours until the battery went dead. The next morning, I fully recharged the battery. Now the only thing the vehicle does is display
“Drive to service work shop, without shifting gears” +185.
While attempting to troubleshoot, the keys don’t have any effect on the car, no dash lights no horn, no door locks the only thing that seems to work is the radio for about 30 seconds and then it shuts off.
I checked every fuse in every fuse box. There’s no sign of burnt circuitry. The starter and all fuse boxes show 12 volts at the main inputs.
I’d appreciate any suggestions. I called the closest MB service center, they didn’t seem to have any answers.
Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 173
Likes: 25
From: UK
Mercedes R320L CDI 4MATIC 2007
I have a 2007 R350, my wife was driving home from work and lightening struck near the car which caused the engine to shut down. The headlights remained on and the engine fan continued to run. The dash lights remained on the door locks, horn and all other electrical components along with the key fob were unresponsive.
After an hour or two of trying to figure out how to get the vehicle started again with no luck, I had it towed home. The lights and fan remained on for several hours until the battery went dead. The next morning, I fully recharged the battery. Now the only thing the vehicle does is display
“Drive to service work shop, without shifting gears” +185.
While attempting to troubleshoot, the keys don’t have any effect on the car, no dash lights no horn, no door locks the only thing that seems to work is the radio for about 30 seconds and then it shuts off.
I checked every fuse in every fuse box. There’s no sign of burnt circuitry. The starter and all fuse boxes show 12 volts at the main inputs.
I’d appreciate any suggestions. I called the closest MB service center, they didn’t seem to have any answers.
After an hour or two of trying to figure out how to get the vehicle started again with no luck, I had it towed home. The lights and fan remained on for several hours until the battery went dead. The next morning, I fully recharged the battery. Now the only thing the vehicle does is display
“Drive to service work shop, without shifting gears” +185.
While attempting to troubleshoot, the keys don’t have any effect on the car, no dash lights no horn, no door locks the only thing that seems to work is the radio for about 30 seconds and then it shuts off.
I checked every fuse in every fuse box. There’s no sign of burnt circuitry. The starter and all fuse boxes show 12 volts at the main inputs.
I’d appreciate any suggestions. I called the closest MB service center, they didn’t seem to have any answers.
But if lightning field reached your gearbox, it reached all of the electronics. So its likely there is more damage than just gearbox.
I would look for a merc scanner, like Star Diagnosis and run a scan with it to see in depth what has happened. Some garages have them, i am not suggesting mercedes dealership, cause they will rip you.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 14,711
Likes: 4,603
From: unbegrenzt
2017 GLE350 4MATIC
Yes, scan and try to clear all codes. Do this over and over again until you feel you have reached the point where it either solves the problem or has no additional effect. This will help you narrow down any parts that potentially need to be replaced, if any.
An Autel model gets good reviews on this site. Use the search feature for a good MB scanner if you don't have Star/Xentry/DAS.
An Autel model gets good reviews on this site. Use the search feature for a good MB scanner if you don't have Star/Xentry/DAS.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 258
Likes: 50
R320, Astro, JSW, ST4
I would try disconnecting the battery(ies) and see if anything resets.
Under passenger seat, power it back to rearmost position and lift carpet. Look for heavy red cable protruding - it is battery ground (-), but strangely Not black.
Disconnect it for half-hour or so or even overnight, then connect it back.
You'll lose the clock time setting, and perhaps the canbus and key-security module will reset in some helpful way.
The first time I read this I did not read it completely. I was going to say charge the battery(ies) completely, after disconnecting them and attaching charger to the battery posts.
You've charged them, and iIt sounds like you've tried more than one key, I was thinking of suggesting testing with the one not involved in the incident - but it sounds like you already have.
Anytime the voltage goes low enough you'll get a barrage of codes, and it does help to clear as many codes as you can first thing after you get a good charge.
If you have a known-good key and the key security module is acting up, you may need to have module replaced.
I don't recall if you would get that message with a bad Aux battery - but the dash isn't coming on in the first place...
If you've had any start/dashboard dead issues previously with one or both of your keys, don't trust them, order a new one it's cheap compared to dealership diagnostics, or the EIS module replacement.
I had a flaky key for a while and had prepared to pull the EIS and play around with possibly flaky power leads inside it, but getting a new key cleared up my troubles.
Good luck and be cool if you can!
Under passenger seat, power it back to rearmost position and lift carpet. Look for heavy red cable protruding - it is battery ground (-), but strangely Not black.
Disconnect it for half-hour or so or even overnight, then connect it back.
You'll lose the clock time setting, and perhaps the canbus and key-security module will reset in some helpful way.
The first time I read this I did not read it completely. I was going to say charge the battery(ies) completely, after disconnecting them and attaching charger to the battery posts.
You've charged them, and iIt sounds like you've tried more than one key, I was thinking of suggesting testing with the one not involved in the incident - but it sounds like you already have.
Anytime the voltage goes low enough you'll get a barrage of codes, and it does help to clear as many codes as you can first thing after you get a good charge.
If you have a known-good key and the key security module is acting up, you may need to have module replaced.
I don't recall if you would get that message with a bad Aux battery - but the dash isn't coming on in the first place...
If you've had any start/dashboard dead issues previously with one or both of your keys, don't trust them, order a new one it's cheap compared to dealership diagnostics, or the EIS module replacement.
I had a flaky key for a while and had prepared to pull the EIS and play around with possibly flaky power leads inside it, but getting a new key cleared up my troubles.
Good luck and be cool if you can!
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
R350
Thanks for the responses. I am leaning toward the key module, although the dash and lights don’t respond to the key being actuated, I have a diagnostic tool bought at Walmart plugged into the diagnostic port. The device lights up when I turn the key to the on position and attempts to perform a diagnostic test but fails to establish a link with the vehicle. As of right now I’m researching the best way to get to the ignition module without removing the dash for a visual and voltage checks.
If the electronic control unit located under the hood and top of the engine is bad, would it control the entire vehicle and prevent everything from working?
If the electronic control unit located under the hood and top of the engine is bad, would it control the entire vehicle and prevent everything from working?
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 258
Likes: 50
R320, Astro, JSW, ST4
These are threads I've read when my key was getting bad, shows the typical symptoms of EIS (key security module) failing, and discusses in detail various options for fixing:
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...-grimlims.html
, including a good description with pictures of removing and repairing the EIS for one possible failure type.
It also mentions when the EIS fails it throws no codes, so a scanner isn't of much use in that case.
Although getting a fresh key took care of my car's issue, I also just remembered my work around while I was doing research and troubleshooting:
When I had a no-start / no-dashlight symptom, I found hitting the door-unlock then door-lock buttons short wait then retry key-start would soft reset the security module's key recognition.
This may or may not work for you - again, ultimately my issue was with my key. But it doesn't cost anything to try it...
Again, best of luck!
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...-grimlims.html
, including a good description with pictures of removing and repairing the EIS for one possible failure type.
It also mentions when the EIS fails it throws no codes, so a scanner isn't of much use in that case.
Although getting a fresh key took care of my car's issue, I also just remembered my work around while I was doing research and troubleshooting:
When I had a no-start / no-dashlight symptom, I found hitting the door-unlock then door-lock buttons short wait then retry key-start would soft reset the security module's key recognition.
This may or may not work for you - again, ultimately my issue was with my key. But it doesn't cost anything to try it...
Again, best of luck!
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