R-Class (W251) Produced 2006-2013: R320CDI, R350, R420CDI, R500

2010 R350 diesel....need some purchase advice

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Old 11-05-2022, 09:31 PM
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2010 R350 diesel....need some purchase advice

Hi all,

I'm looking for some info on a local vehicle for sale. There is one for sale a couple of hours away, 124000 miles on it. Supposedly had $9000 worth of work done over the past couple of years. Right now the owner says that the power comes on, lights come on, but when you push the start button, nothing happens.

Is this just a starter issue? Are these models known for this, or could this possibly be a larger issue?

I know you can't confirm anything, but just looking to see if this might be a diamond in the rough, or more possibly a lemon I'd be sinking cash into.

Thanks,
Dunluce
Old 11-06-2022, 01:00 PM
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The early years of the Bluetec diesel are liable to be money pits. Look up issues with the diesels and see if they're something you want to play around with first. The diesels are the same engine across the entire Mercedes lineup.

Also, keep in mind that the DEF tank takes up the space where the spare tire would typically be on these cars.
Old 11-06-2022, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Tsumi
The early years of the Bluetec diesel are liable to be money pits. Look up issues with the diesels and see if they're something you want to play around with first. The diesels are the same engine across the entire Mercedes lineup.

Also, keep in mind that the DEF tank takes up the space where the spare tire would typically be on these cars.

Well, I don't know what all has been done to it, so if there are some common big ticket items, maybe they have been taken care of, maybe not.

What is considered to be "early years"?

Second, do you mean there is no spare tire at all? (issue, not necessarily a deal breaker).
Old 11-06-2022, 06:04 PM
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This place is a joke.
RUN and I mean RUN FAST from any MB diesel built after 2006. A 2010 R-class diesel with 120k+ miles is essentially worthless other than scrap value.
Old 11-06-2022, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
RUN and I mean RUN FAST from any MB diesel built after 2006. A 2010 R-class diesel with 120k+ miles is essentially worthless other than scrap value.
Ouch. That sounds a bit harsh.

Is that the general consensus, or a biased opinion? Hard to tell without specifics.
Old 11-06-2022, 08:39 PM
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Diesel engines in the mid-2000s to mid-2010s era had a lot of problems in general, not just specific to Mercedes. This primarily has to do with the new emissions regulations that went into effect in the mid-2000s. The emissions systems were less than reliable and expensive to repair. It's still a problem today but diesel emissions has become more reliable than they were in the 2010 era. Still expensive to fix when they do break.
Old 11-06-2022, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Tsumi
Diesel engines in the mid-2000s to mid-2010s era had a lot of problems in general, not just specific to Mercedes. This primarily has to do with the new emissions regulations that went into effect in the mid-2000s. The emissions systems were less than reliable and expensive to repair. It's still a problem today but diesel emissions has become more reliable than they were in the 2010 era. Still expensive to fix when they do break.
So basically, looking like a bad idea to purchase.
Old 11-07-2022, 06:31 AM
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I would not. I also think if you follow these boards after a while some themes or key lessons start to emerge, like 1) no BLUETEC, 2) wouldn't go with anything pre-2010 or 2011 at this point, and 3) don't try to fiddle with or do anything "extra" to the R--keep it stock. If it's not an obvious mechanical default, or coming up on the information display, leave it alone.
Old 11-07-2022, 10:25 AM
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This place is a joke.
The fact that you are here asking these questions tells us that you shouldn't be getting involved with this car.
Old 11-07-2022, 10:39 AM
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I wouldn't touch that with a 39-and-a-half-foot pole.
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Old 11-07-2022, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Trampas
I would not. I also think if you follow these boards after a while some themes or key lessons start to emerge, like 1) no BLUETEC, 2) wouldn't go with anything pre-2010 or 2011 at this point, and 3) don't try to fiddle with or do anything "extra" to the R--keep it stock. If it's not an obvious mechanical default, or coming up on the information display, leave it alone.
Ok, I appreciate that. Tells me that they obviously got some bugs worked out after 2011.

Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
The fact that you are here asking these questions tells us that you shouldn't be getting involved with this car.
No, the fact that I am here asking questions means that I at least know to come to a Mercedes forum to get some honest answers, instead of just Googling it on the internet. I can search for weeks and get varying different answers, and if someone was doing that, yes, patterns would eventually emerge. But if someone is trying to jump on a possible deal before it is gone, then the forums is a good place to start.

And the fact that I am unfamiliar with this model tells you I shouldn't be getting involved with this car? Really? That's a pretty presumptive comment to make....is it that I'm less familiar with newer model diesels, or is it the fact that I am new to this forum? Hopefully if you try something new sometime and have some initial questions you won't have someone judge you so quickly.

Originally Posted by CincyMBGuy
I wouldn't touch that with a 39-and-a-half-foot pole.
Thanks, which is what I came here to find out, honestly. It was advertised for $2500, lots of work done to it, but seems to have a starter issue. If there were less common issues and something that wasn't too much to work on, then it would be a diamond in the rough.

Old 11-07-2022, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by dunluce
Ok, I appreciate that. Tells me that they obviously got some bugs worked out after 2011.



No, the fact that I am here asking questions means that I at least know to come to a Mercedes forum to get some honest answers, instead of just Googling it on the internet. I can search for weeks and get varying different answers, and if someone was doing that, yes, patterns would eventually emerge. But if someone is trying to jump on a possible deal before it is gone, then the forums is a good place to start.

And the fact that I am unfamiliar with this model tells you I shouldn't be getting involved with this car? Really? That's a pretty presumptive comment to make....is it that I'm less familiar with newer model diesels, or is it the fact that I am new to this forum? Hopefully if you try something new sometime and have some initial questions you won't have someone judge you so quickly.



Thanks, which is what I came here to find out, honestly. It was advertised for $2500, lots of work done to it, but seems to have a starter issue. If there were less common issues and something that wasn't too much to work on, then it would be a diamond in the rough.
You misunderstand. The point is that the fact that you have to ask the question is enough of a sign that you shouldn't be touching that car. Some people were willing to give more complete answers as to why, but the fact that you're asking is enough to recommend against it.
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Old 11-07-2022, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Tsumi
You misunderstand. The point is that the fact that you have to ask the question is enough of a sign that you shouldn't be touching that car. Some people were willing to give more complete answers as to why, but the fact that you're asking is enough to recommend against it.
By that same logic, if anyone asks a question about any model car that should be a sign they shouldn't be touching it?
That argument doesn't wash to me.
Old 11-07-2022, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by dunluce
By that same logic, if anyone asks a question about any model car that should be a sign they shouldn't be touching it?
That argument doesn't wash to me.
You're still misunderstanding. The point is the fact that you asked the question is enough information for us to tell you not to touch it.
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Old 11-07-2022, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by dunluce
Ok, I appreciate that. Tells me that they obviously got some bugs worked out after 2011.
No worries, and happy to provide some perspective as an owner. I actually think too many of the posters have been far too harsh in their response to your query, and that if I had posted in mid-2018 that "I am looking to buy a 2011 R-350 with 54K miles from a used auto lot" I would have likely been similarly flamed. Nevertheless, it has been a brilliant and extremely reliable family hauler whose value went above what I paid for it after COVID, despite now having over 90K miles. YMMV

I think not only were some bugs worked out after 2011, it just looks a lot better too. There's a thread on here somewhere called "I am swapping the updated tailights into my older R-Class" that would be reason enough for me not to consider a pre-2011 model--not to mention the newer and better reliability benefits. That being said, I would actually be somewhat wary of a 2012 model too because they introduced a new engine type in there toward the end of the run that is different from the familiar and somewhat bulletproof V6 used in prior years.

I really do think 2011 is the year you want. Keep looking, and good luck.
Old 11-07-2022, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Trampas
No worries, and happy to provide some perspective as an owner. I actually think too many of the posters have been far too harsh in their response to your query, and that if I had posted in mid-2018 that "I am looking to buy a 2011 R-350 with 54K miles from a used auto lot" I would have likely been similarly flamed. Nevertheless, it has been a brilliant and extremely reliable family hauler whose value went above what I paid for it after COVID, despite now having over 90K miles. YMMV

I think not only were some bugs worked out after 2011, it just looks a lot better too. There's a thread on here somewhere called "I am swapping the updated tailights into my older R-Class" that would be reason enough for me not to consider a pre-2011 model--not to mention the newer and better reliability benefits. That being said, I would actually be somewhat wary of a 2012 model too because they introduced a new engine type in there toward the end of the run that is different from the familiar and somewhat bulletproof V6 used in prior years.

I really do think 2011 is the year you want. Keep looking, and good luck.
I'm pretty sure your point only applies to the gas model. The bugs on the M272 engine and 7G-tronic transmission were worked out by 2009, so in terms of engine and transmission reliability, any M272 after 2009 is good to go. The facelift in 2011 was purely cosmetic.

Bluetec emissions and reliability will always be an issue regardless of the year and is the point of discussion on this thread.
Old 11-30-2022, 10:07 AM
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Ignore most of these clowns, they only know to take their cars to the dealer and bend over. Most couldn't put air in their tires.

If you are in a state without emission testing requirements, look into a DEF/DPF/EGR delete, which resolves most of the emissions related problems and is very common amongst diesels. Aside from that the same type of maintenance applies to all diesel engines, take care of those and they'll run a long time. Otherwise typical MB problems of this generation.

I am more experienced with BMWs and there is a lot more DIY info out there, I have been able to do almost everything myself on my BMWs, but with MBs little to no info out there, too much of what you see here.

Last edited by Tdott; 11-30-2022 at 10:09 AM.
Old 11-30-2022, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
The fact that you are here asking these questions tells us that you shouldn't be getting involved with this car.
Imagine living life being a scared and never taking any challenges. Just because you aren't familiar with something doesn't mean you can't learn and grow. Those type of people should go drive corollas.
Old 11-30-2022, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Tdott
Ignore most of these clowns, they only know to take their cars to the dealer and bend over. Most couldn't put air in their tires.

If you are in a state without emission testing requirements, look into a DEF/DPF/EGR delete, which resolves most of the emissions related problems and is very common amongst diesels. Aside from that the same type of maintenance applies to all diesel engines, take care of those and they'll run a long time. Otherwise typical MB problems of this generation.

I am more experienced with BMWs and there is a lot more DIY info out there, I have been able to do almost everything myself on my BMWs, but with MBs little to no info out there, too much of what you see here.
Environmental issues aside, crackdowns on illegal emissions deletes is only going to become more common as time goes on.

Also, great way to introduce yourself to the community by calling everyone else clowns. It's the perfect way to make friends.
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Old 12-08-2022, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Tsumi
Environmental issues aside, crackdowns on illegal emissions deletes is only going to become more common as time goes on.
Imagine having to live in CA and deal with their nonsense.

Originally Posted by Tsumi
Also, great way to introduce yourself to the community by calling everyone else clowns. It's the perfect way to make friends.
If you learn to read you will see I said 'most' (not all), interesting that you think you fall into that criteria and I didn't have to point it out.

Also note my join date is before yours, I just don't post much, but decided to say something here as I've been seeing way too many useless posts like yours, which doesn't include information the OP asked for. MB owners really fit the stereo type. But there are a few useful users in here with knowledgeable responses that do no include the standard "take it to the dealer" "MB knows best" "MB good, aftermarket bad" type of responses. They just don't post as much as the useless ones because they are usually busy.

Have a great day.
Old 12-08-2022, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Tdott
Imagine having to live in CA and deal with their nonsense.


If you learn to read you will see I said 'most' (not all), interesting that you think you fall into that criteria and I didn't have to point it out.

Also note my join date is before yours, I just don't post much, but decided to say something here as I've been seeing way too many useless posts like yours, which doesn't include information the OP asked for. MB owners really fit the stereo type. But there are a few useful users in here with knowledgeable responses that do no include the standard "take it to the dealer" "MB knows best" "MB good, aftermarket bad" type of responses. They just don't post as much as the useless ones because they are usually busy.

Have a great day.
Not just CA. See the New Jersey truck owner that had to scrap their truck because they couldn't sell it. It will be nationwide sooner or later. It's even worse in European countries.

Join date, just like seniority, does not appear to be an indicator of helpfulness, wisdom, or maturity. Where is your guide on how to delete the emissions system, if you were oh so helpful? And you could have posted that without taking jabs at others.

That is putting aside the fact that I don't believe deleting on any diesel vehicle is the right thing to do. Either deal with the expense of maintaining a modern diesel or go get a gasser. And since money/value was a big concern to the OP, clearly a Bluetec car is not the right car for him.
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