R350 (2006) - Issue with accelaration
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
R350 (2006) - Issue with accelaration
I have MB R350 (2006 model – 125K on meter). What is the connection of accelerator padel with battery ?
I had old battery which use to dry out quickly and every time I use to jump start, car use to accelerate properly. It use to show 13.x V after jump start. But as and when power use to go down (~ 12.x V) it use to impact the acceleration and below 12 V it does not start.
To overcome this, I have recently replaced the battery and put a new one 2 months back. For first 2-3 weeks I had proper acceleration but after that it’s getting worst. Car starts normally and quickly but acceleration is very poor. It takes 50 to 90 seconds to accelerate from 0 to 30 on a flat road. If slop is 5-10 degree it take more than 1.5 min and if 20 degree, it does not go beyond 25 mph even with full paddle press throughout. My battery is showing 12.2 V but not full charge (above 13 V)
I do not see any issue with transition on motorway with cruise control (after I cross 30 mph) I can drive at 70 mph easily and no issue at all.
Wondering what is the relation between acceleration padel and battery ? What should I ask my local mechanic to check / replace / fix to overcome acceleration issue as most of my driving is within the city areas and not on motorways.
I had old battery which use to dry out quickly and every time I use to jump start, car use to accelerate properly. It use to show 13.x V after jump start. But as and when power use to go down (~ 12.x V) it use to impact the acceleration and below 12 V it does not start.
To overcome this, I have recently replaced the battery and put a new one 2 months back. For first 2-3 weeks I had proper acceleration but after that it’s getting worst. Car starts normally and quickly but acceleration is very poor. It takes 50 to 90 seconds to accelerate from 0 to 30 on a flat road. If slop is 5-10 degree it take more than 1.5 min and if 20 degree, it does not go beyond 25 mph even with full paddle press throughout. My battery is showing 12.2 V but not full charge (above 13 V)
I do not see any issue with transition on motorway with cruise control (after I cross 30 mph) I can drive at 70 mph easily and no issue at all.
Wondering what is the relation between acceleration padel and battery ? What should I ask my local mechanic to check / replace / fix to overcome acceleration issue as most of my driving is within the city areas and not on motorways.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,086
Likes: 443
From: Melbourne, Australia
2010 ML550 VIN WDC1641722A564750, 2010 B180
These cars have computer modules all over them, including the accelerator which drives the throttle electronically and not by an old fashioned cable.
These modules are very sensitive to voltage fluctuations and flat batteries and can go haywire even with a small drop in voltage. If you have less than 12.7v engine off and less than 13.7 v engine running, then you have a.dead battery and or sick alternator. You said you keep jump starting it. Get the power side sorted or you'll never find the problem if it's something else.
These modules are very sensitive to voltage fluctuations and flat batteries and can go haywire even with a small drop in voltage. If you have less than 12.7v engine off and less than 13.7 v engine running, then you have a.dead battery and or sick alternator. You said you keep jump starting it. Get the power side sorted or you'll never find the problem if it's something else.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,981
Likes: 6,819
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
No1 issue is your alternator is not powering the car properly with voltage above 12.6Volts.
This does not mean you need a new voltage regulator as ECU/CGW/FSAM/RSAM are networked to control voltage.
You will want to use a $150 Launch scanner to post complete chassis scan.
If you're in a rush... replace Bosch ALT but know that could provide absolutely no relief. Using scanner will show what is happening with chassis voltage.
This does not mean you need a new voltage regulator as ECU/CGW/FSAM/RSAM are networked to control voltage.
You will want to use a $150 Launch scanner to post complete chassis scan.
If you're in a rush... replace Bosch ALT but know that could provide absolutely no relief. Using scanner will show what is happening with chassis voltage.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Dec 8, 2024 at 05:21 PM.
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
