S-Class (W126) 1979-1991: 300 SE, 300 SEL, 380 SE, 380 SEL, 420 SEL, 500 SEL, 560 SEL, 360 SEC, 500 SEC, 580 SEC, 300 SD TURBODIESEL, 300 SDL TURBO, 350 SD TURBO, 350 SDL TURBO

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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 12:23 PM
  #1  
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1986 500 sec
stung!

Think iv just bought a heap its a 1986 w126 500 sec. Though I really like the car, I know its got shed written all over it. Basically I got it off ebay by some horror of who lied to me over the phone saying it had full history everything works yada yada!

Seen as it seemed to drive ok and id literally traveled half way across the country I thought id buy it, only to find that he's blanked out the lights on the dash using marker pen (if anyone has a diagram of the dash please let me know)

Half the electrics dont work, theres more rust than mentioned, it needs two new windscreens and it wont start on petrol (only lpg) god knows what else!!!!
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 05:15 PM
  #2  
RyanRichter's Avatar
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From: Atlanta, GA
'89 300SE, '91 350SDL turbodiesel, '91 420SEL, Ford Ranger EDGE
Originally Posted by alexkontos
Think iv just bought a heap its a 1986 w126 500 sec. Though I really like the car, I know its got shed written all over it. Basically I got it off ebay by some horror of who lied to me over the phone saying it had full history everything works yada yada!

Seen as it seemed to drive ok and id literally traveled half way across the country I thought id buy it, only to find that he's blanked out the lights on the dash using marker pen (if anyone has a diagram of the dash please let me know)

Half the electrics dont work, theres more rust than mentioned, it needs two new windscreens and it wont start on petrol (only lpg) god knows what else!!!!
Wow! Sorry to hear that.

What electronics are not working?

If its blacked out how do you know they are lighting up?

How much rust is MORE than expected?

Seems like you need to get it inspected by an MB tech or of the like.

How much did you pay if you dont mind?

Details Watson! I need bricks and morter to build a wall!

Ryan
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Old Aug 28, 2013 | 05:18 PM
  #3  
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From: Atlanta, GA
'89 300SE, '91 350SDL turbodiesel, '91 420SEL, Ford Ranger EDGE
Originally Posted by alexkontos
Think iv just bought a heap its a 1986 w126 500 sec. Though I really like the car, I know its got shed written all over it. Basically I got it off ebay by some horror of who lied to me over the phone saying it had full history everything works yada yada!

Seen as it seemed to drive ok and id literally traveled half way across the country I thought id buy it, only to find that he's blanked out the lights on the dash using marker pen (if anyone has a diagram of the dash please let me know)

Half the electrics dont work, theres more rust than mentioned, it needs two new windscreens and it wont start on petrol (only lpg) god knows what else!!!!
Did I read this right? It wont start WITHOUT lpg(liquid propane gas?)
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 02:30 AM
  #4  
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1986 500 sec
Originally Posted by RyanRichter
Did I read this right? It wont start WITHOUT lpg(liquid propane gas?)
Yea mate only seems to want to start up on LPG for some reason, could be fuel pump related (hopefully not) not sure yet...
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 02:48 AM
  #5  
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1986 500 sec
:(

Originally Posted by RyanRichter
Wow! Sorry to hear that.

What electronics are not working?

If its blacked out how do you know they are lighting up?

How much rust is MORE than expected?

Seems like you need to get it inspected by an MB tech or of the like.

How much did you pay if you dont mind?

Details Watson! I need bricks and morter to build a wall!

Ryan
[L[/LEFT]


The moving seats only work on the forward and backwards not the upwards part, only the passenger headrest will move, both seatbelt pretesioners won't work an all the windows are very slow. Can I ask what the deal with the sunroof is? Mine has a fabric panel but can't seem to open it (though the electrics work on that Doh!

I'm just guessing that there's lights on the dash, it's been misused at one point then if not now. There's one lights I can see flashing but have no manuals for the warning lights?

As for the rust, there's just more than was mentioned on the listing, and there's huge amounts of white milk in the corners of the rear (an some on the front) windows. Am guessing they'll need to be replaced before the heated windiest will work in the summer??


Last night I realised there's braking issues also could only just stop in the middle of the junction, like the vacuum is gone. I think because someone has tampered with the accelerator so it doesn't cut out. That doesn't help.


Also I idles funny in different gears in drive its low, in park an neutral it shoots up??? The guy was like I'm only making £100 lets just say he got what he wanted, just scum I reckon it was all lies
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Old Aug 29, 2013 | 04:05 PM
  #6  
RyanRichter's Avatar
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From: Atlanta, GA
'89 300SE, '91 350SDL turbodiesel, '91 420SEL, Ford Ranger EDGE
Originally Posted by alexkontos
[L[/LEFT]


The moving seats only work on the forward and backwards not the upwards part, only the passenger headrest will move, both seatbelt pretesioners won't work an all the windows are very slow. Can I ask what the deal with the sunroof is? Mine has a fabric panel but can't seem to open it (though the electrics work on that Doh!

I'm just guessing that there's lights on the dash, it's been misused at one point then if not now. There's one lights I can see flashing but have no manuals for the warning lights?

As for the rust, there's just more than was mentioned on the listing, and there's huge amounts of white milk in the corners of the rear (an some on the front) windows. Am guessing they'll need to be replaced before the heated windiest will work in the summer??


Last night I realised there's braking issues also could only just stop in the middle of the junction, like the vacuum is gone. I think because someone has tampered with the accelerator so it doesn't cut out. That doesn't help.


Also I idles funny in different gears in drive its low, in park an neutral it shoots up??? The guy was like I'm only making £100 lets just say he got what he wanted, just scum I reckon it was all lies
The most expensive thing in the world is a cheap Mercedes!

Im not a trained tech so Im lost on the lpg to start.

Lets start with the idle. Look thru my other post in this forum for info. Fuel pump relays, OVP relays, coldstart valves. These are the main problems Ive seen for what you described.

The brakes are worn Im sure along with the rotors. Check and replace if needed. Bleed brake lines and master. See if you can find a product that removes moisture from the lines. And if you end up needing new rotors, make sure you break them in the RIGHT way. Search the forums there are threads relating to this method.

Check the accel. Linkage to the throttle. Might just be gummed up or rusted or frayed. Replace if needed.

I dont know what you mean by "milk on the windows" but that sounds gross. Have a tech check the strength of your frame! If its badly rusted, then any wreck you find yourself in the damage will multiply if not kill you! Check it fix it if you can.

Find a junker w126 and take the warning lights dash display. You need that so you can tell when you have to spend money!

Seats sound like relays or motor. A simple voltage reader will help determine the cause of malfunction.

Seatbelts are for women. Find a junker w126 and replace with working units. Check the forums for the details on the because I am not sure of how to fix them.

The sunroof is the bane of all Mercedes owners. Does the metal portion open? The plastic rails the sunroof rolls on break and then leave you exposed. If youre lucky the break when its closed. Replacing them requires a lot of time. If its stuck closed just leave it unless you have the money or time to fix.

This should keep you busy for a while.

Ok review time. Things you must do before you drive it again.
Bleed and replace brakes and rotors(if needed)
Have tech check rust and frame. Also seatbelts they WILL save your life!
Clean repair replace throttle linkage.

These are must before driving again. Dont hurt yourself or someone else.

Ryan
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 10:10 AM
  #7  
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1986 500 sec
Originally Posted by RyanRichter
The most expensive thing in the world is a cheap Mercedes!

Im not a trained tech so Im lost on the lpg to start.

Lets start with the idle. Look thru my other post in this forum for info. Fuel pump relays, OVP relays, coldstart valves. These are the main problems Ive seen for what you described.

The brakes are worn Im sure along with the rotors. Check and replace if needed. Bleed brake lines and master. See if you can find a product that removes moisture from the lines. And if you end up needing new rotors, make sure you break them in the RIGHT way. Search the forums there are threads relating to this method.

Check the accel. Linkage to the throttle. Might just be gummed up or rusted or frayed. Replace if needed.

I dont know what you mean by "milk on the windows" but that sounds gross. Have a tech check the strength of your frame! If its badly rusted, then any wreck you find yourself in the damage will multiply if not kill you! Check it fix it if you can.

Find a junker w126 and take the warning lights dash display. You need that so you can tell when you have to spend money!

Seats sound like relays or motor. A simple voltage reader will help determine the cause of malfunction.

Seatbelts are for women. Find a junker w126 and replace with working units. Check the forums for the details on the because I am not sure of how to fix them.

The sunroof is the bane of all Mercedes owners. Does the metal portion open? The plastic rails the sunroof rolls on break and then leave you exposed. If youre lucky the break when its closed. Replacing them requires a lot of time. If its stuck closed just leave it unless you have the money or time to fix.

This should keep you busy for a while.

Ok review time. Things you must do before you drive it again.
Bleed and replace brakes and rotors(if needed)
Have tech check rust and frame. Also seatbelts they WILL save your life!
Clean repair replace throttle linkage.

These are must before driving again. Dont hurt yourself or someone else.

Ryan
Solid words, sounds good...

Does anyone know what type of fuel pump these things have. I need to inform the local breakers of what type I require, hes asking does it have 2 pumps etc..? Iv got no idea
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 01:02 PM
  #8  
voituer's Avatar
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r129 320sl, w210 E55, w126 300se
Two ways to go with this car - buy a better one now you have an idea what to look for and use this as spares and even sell parts to even up or bite the bullet and just decide what you want working and concentrate on that. If you try to get this one all upand running it could break your wallet.

the milking on the windows is delamination where the layers seperate. Very common on the coupes but less so on the saloons, its not a problem unless you really hate it.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 04:37 PM
  #9  
RyanRichter's Avatar
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From: Atlanta, GA
'89 300SE, '91 350SDL turbodiesel, '91 420SEL, Ford Ranger EDGE
Originally Posted by alexkontos
Solid words, sounds good...

Does anyone know what type of fuel pump these things have. I need to inform the local breakers of what type I require, hes asking does it have 2 pumps etc..? Iv got no idea
There should be 2 pumps, one in the petrol tank and a second under the right rear wheel well.

As for the type of fuel pump....google search it. or just to to Peachparts.com and look up your car year and model. should give all the info you need!

Ryan
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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 07:00 AM
  #10  
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1986 500 sec
Car just cut out twice on the way into work

It was doing this when I first got it but I thought it was down to the contacts on the battery terminal not being connected well, but id just got it through its mot this morning and it done it twice on the way into work.

Just had a replacement fuel pump fitted so im guessing its not that. Im gunna retry the terminals again, also as the car is being started on LPG as the fuel guage is showing empty (might be an obvious one buut I reckon the guage may be at fault as I put £15 in and it didnt budge) so next thing would be to add £20 fresh fuel as the stuff in there now might be very old.

Also maybe fuel lines? Fuel pump relay??? Anything else Im missing?...
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