Thoughts on 1995 S500
I'm looking at purchasing a 1995 S500 Sedan and wanted to find out what I should be aware of in purchasing this vehicle. The vehicle has 91,000 miles. Everything appears to operate correctly. The ride is quiet and smooth, and the vehicle accelerates quickly.
One thing I noticed was condensation on the lower part of the windshield when the air conditioning was running. Why might this be happening, is it of concern, what might be done to address it, and what might it cost?
Are these vehicles known to have certain problems that I should be aware of and look for?
I'll have the vehicle checked by a mechanic, but wanted to do some research first to insure it is a worthwhile pursuit.
I was driving a 1988 560SL - beautiful car and a joy to drive. Sadly, it was in an accident and the cost of repairs was such that the other party's insurance company decided to declare the vehicle a total loss.
I was looking at a 1991 560SEC that appeared on the surface to be a very fine automobile but upon closer examination was found to have several problems. Though I was trying to stay with a pre-1992 Mercedes, what I have found in my area has been limited, and often in less than ideal condition. So my search has brought me to a more recent Mercedes. Though they were most reliable pre-1992, this will hopefully make for an enjoyable vehicle.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts and advice.
Yash
Forgot to mention the closing assist pump for the doors and trunk. This is another expensive and common failure point.
Last edited by loveit_but_hate; Aug 31, 2004 at 09:37 AM.
till the next epsiode-benzkid
Here are a couple of pictures of the wires with corroded copper after losing the insulation:
The green on the wires is from corrosion - note no insulation left.
Look at this mess!
See #18 for dewpoint temperature;
Contact mis ou moteur en marche.
Passez en mode auto (droite et gauche) sur la console de clim.
Maintenez la touche « REST » pendant au peu près 7 secondes.
L’affichage change.
A gauche le n° du compteur (voir ci-dessous)
A droite sa valeur
Pour aller au compteur suivant pressez la touche « AUTO » de gauche, pour revenir au précédent, celle de droite.
La touche « REST » permet de revenir à l’affichage normal.
01: Température intérieure.
02: T° extérieure.
05: T° de l'évaporateur.
06: T° du liquide de refroidissement
07: Pression du liquide réfrigérant (clim)
08: T° du liquide réfrigérant (clim)
16: Valeur du monoxyde de carbone
17: Valeur de l'oxide de nitrogène (j'ai un doute sur la traduction)
18: Température du point de rosée (utile pour savoir s'il est nécessaire de s'inquiéter lorsque vient la fumée blanche à la base du pare brise. J'ai même un passager qui a voulu sauter en marche lorsqu'il l’a vue).
21: Régime moteur
22: Vitesse du véhicule
24: Voltage de la batterie
Contact mis ou moteur en marche.
Passez en mode auto (droite et gauche) sur la console de clim.
Maintenez la touche « REST » pendant au peu près 7 secondes.
L’affichage change.
A gauche le n° du compteur (voir ci-dessous)
A droite sa valeur
Pour aller au compteur suivant pressez la touche « AUTO » de gauche, pour revenir au précédent, celle de droite.
La touche « REST » permet de revenir à l’affichage normal.
01: Température intérieure.
02: T° extérieure.
05: T° de l'évaporateur.
06: T° du liquide de refroidissement
07: Pression du liquide réfrigérant (clim)
08: T° du liquide réfrigérant (clim)
16: Valeur du monoxyde de carbone
17: Valeur de l'oxide de nitrogène (j'ai un doute sur la traduction)
18: Température du point de rosée (utile pour savoir s'il est nécessaire de s'inquiéter lorsque vient la fumée blanche à la base du pare brise. J'ai même un passager qui a voulu sauter en marche lorsqu'il l’a vue).
21: Régime moteur
22: Vitesse du véhicule
24: Voltage de la batterie
thank you all for your thoughts - it's greatly appreciated.
my mechanic agreed that i should not consider a 1995 if the evaporator has not been replaced. he suggested that the 1994 and 1995 models had several issues and that i should consider a 1996 or later model.
i'm considering a 1999 S320 - SWB. A smaller vehicle, a smaller engine. We're going to go test drive it this evening and I'll let you know what I think of it.
Thanks,
Yash
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IMHO, best bet if go for newest W140 you can afford, '98 or '99 preferred.... They are least bugged and still well put together....
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till the NEXT Epsiode-Benzkid
till the NEXT Epsiode-Benzkid
As mentioned above, the bio-degradable wires, Evap Core, Close Assist Pump, even the rear parking guides(1992 - 1995) have be updated during the time they were used on S-Class.....
Like you said, ANY car can be in very bad shape if the owners are not taking great care of the car. However, if you DO search around, you would find alot of common problems on early build W140s. And with 1996+ W140s coming down even more in price, it's really a no brainer that newer(my personal recommendation is of course an 1999, but anything between 1997-1999 would do just fine).
I made/post a list about USA/Canadian Spec W140s... Though it seems no one cares, but I will just post it again here... This would give you some ideas if you are in market for an W140... And if you DO read it through, you would know why that I recommended AT LEAST an 1997...
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w140/67393-us-canadian-w140-list.html
btw if i EVER have trouble with my s500 its ok...i will still love her! Let me ask oyu somthing else
You Married?? If so in the 1st say ummm 5 years of your marriage is great,and GOD FORBID your Wife comes down with Cancer in the 7th year.You ready to give her up cause all of a sudden shes falling apart form a problem??note i understand a car and wife are 2 different things but the same princeable.Are you ready to go get another wife?? stupid or not its the same thing. cars break down new and old bla bla bla IT happens.remember **IT HAPPENS!! it does and you just deal with it. take care and God Bless you with your troubles on your cars it sounds like you have tons of trouble!!!
till the next epsiode-The one and only Benzkid
TRUE MERCEDES BENZ LOVER OF NEW AND OLD OLD OLD!!! 4LIFE!
By the way, how did you "check" your wiring harness? The damage and exposed wires are not visible unless you look into the loom. Here is another "happy" owner - look here and see what I mean about hidden wiring problems http://www.benzworld.org/forums/foru...posts=3&fid=13
Thanks Rod
Thanks Rod
There are many causes for vibration. For older, but low mileage cars, it would be just about anything... From old design suspension(shimmy feel), flatspot and/or even aged rims, drive shaft vibration.
Anyways, since yours is a '96(with updated suspension), and if driven on daily basis, I would suggest you look for...
1. Engine Mounts... See if they have been replaced or if in need for replacement
2. Drive-Shaft.... This type of vibration usual occur at certain speed and/or rpm.... If you get constant vibration and faster you go, it would become a "contributing factor" rather than the "source of vibration"....
3. If possible, try source another set of rims in perfect condition, mount those and try??
4. Also, check front tie-rod, steering mount, and any rubber mount in the front suspension area, maybe some of those are aged and in need of replacement.
Good luck!!
Andy
I've been told that when Mercedes switched from R-12 refrigerant the new freon formulation (132?) ate the welds of the evaporator and that every car that Mercedes changed the freon in had the evaporator failed and they warrantied that failure...but some of these cars changed owners before the failure and the seller was unaware and the buyer was left with the consequences. The fix is to put in a redesigned unit, which is expensive. Sound right to you?



