S-Class (W220) 1999-2006: S 320 CDI, S 320, S430, S 500, S 600

Trunk won't open with the remote!!!

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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 02:56 PM
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Trunk won't open with the remote!!!

In my S430, the trunk stop working with the remote. It won't open with it. I have to use the metal key. Any suggestion, what could be the cause? Thanks.
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 01:36 PM
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Anyone?-- want to chip in????
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 12:44 PM
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Come on!!
Someone got to know this.
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 04:41 PM
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Can you open it if you unlock the car and open the trunk via the button above the license plate?
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by newton22
Can you open it if you unlock the car and open the trunk via the button above the license plate?
No, I have to use the metal key for do that. Thanks for your intention for to help.
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 01:41 PM
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Have you tried the mechanical trunk latch located under the trunk lip just above the license plate? (You didn't mention that...) The cause of a stuck trunk is usually something caught in and jamming the lock mechanism like clothing or something. You may have to have your dealer open it if you cannot.
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Jayhawk
Have you tried the mechanical trunk latch located under the trunk lip just above the license plate? (You didn't mention that...) The cause of a stuck trunk is usually something caught in and jamming the lock mechanism like clothing or something. You may have to have your dealer open it if you cannot.
Thanks.
I have tried that latch. I believe, that's the one in which we can insert the metal key. Isn't it? When I press that it won't open. I have to use the metal key and turn it to the left while pressing that latch, it will open that way. But, the remote doesn't work. I checked everything. There is nothing caught in and jamming the mechanism. I can easily open with the key. but not with the remote & That's my question. Why can't it open the truck? It works well with the doors.
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 05:08 PM
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Checked all the fuses? Would it open via the button on the driver's door?
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MILIN1609
In my S430, the trunk stop working with the remote. It won't open with it. I have to use the metal key. Any suggestion, what could be the cause? Thanks.
The lock cylinder can be turned to the 90 degree position by turning the key to the right and the key can be removed in this position, the trunk lid lock is then locked mechanically, it cannot be opened manually or with remote control key or with the remote trunk release switch on driver door. The purpose of this design for valet parking. Possible your trunk is locked mechanically try to turn the key 90 degree left and remove the metal key.
BTW have you tried to open the trunk with release switch on the driver door?
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Old Sep 25, 2006 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by johnny7623
The lock cylinder can be turned to the 90 degree position by turning the key to the right and the key can be removed in this position, the trunk lid lock is then locked mechanically, it cannot be opened manually or with remote control key or with the remote trunk release switch on driver door. The purpose of this design for valet parking. Possible your trunk is locked mechanically try to turn the key 90 degree left and remove the metal key.
BTW have you tried to open the trunk with release switch on the driver door?
The trunk does not open with release switch on the driver door.
Have not checked any fuses yet.
The way, you have detailed the valet parking design, I am quite sure that I might have locked it mechanically. The car is with my wife rightnow, so, I will check tomorrow and report. Thanks.

Last edited by MILIN1609; Sep 25, 2006 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 08:44 AM
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If the trunk is locked with the key, it can not be opened with the remote. It is in the manual. The key can be removed in two different positions in the other the remote should unlock it
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 10:50 AM
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Your trunk unlocking mechanism is not getting power. Possible reasons - 1 Your rear SAM located under the rear seat may be corroded and is not sending power to the vacuum actuator. Check your rear SAM (with all the fuses and relays under the rear seat) and ensure none of the fuses are blown. If there are no blown fuses you may need a new trunk vacuum actuator. Also see if the vacuum assist is closing all doors. If none of your doors are closing by vacuum assist then you need to get this checked out. 2 - You may have other electrical problems that are associated with the rear SAM. Check to see if your rear window defrost is working. If it is not working you may need to have your rear SAM replaced due to corrosion. Let me also tell you that this is not an easy DIY problem. Please have this diagnosed by MB tech because you may have other electrical problems related to this.
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 12:41 PM
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Whatever the causes of these problems, I hope all of you will report back here when they are resolved. We can all benefit from your experiences and be better prepared to deal w/ our own, if and when they occur. That is what this forum is all about. Thanks!
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Jayhawk
Whatever the causes of these problems, I hope all of you will report back here when they are resolved. We can all benefit from your experiences and be better prepared to deal w/ our own, if and when they occur. That is what this forum is all about. Thanks!
That is very true.
I still have no luck opening the trunk with remote. I did check the mechanical locking senerio, but it is in unlocked position.Kind of straight line when standing right behind the car. The trunk won't open from the release switch on the driver door, either.
The doors works well with vaccume when touched slowly against the door jambs. So, there is nothing wrong in that system. Sometimes, I have noticed, the trunk doesn't close with vaccume. I repeat, that is only sometimes. Most of the time it works ok. Again, that with key only.
I guess, I will have to look under the rear seat. Under the seat, there is a some kind of insulation glued allaround. Is that the way it come? Which side should I start opening? I don't want to disturb it for no reason.
Thanks again for the help.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 12:02 PM
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You say you have to "use the metal key." If the trunk lock is in the unlocked position, and the car is unlocked, the trunk should open just by pressing the lock tumbler in. Does it? If not, there is a mechanical problem with the trunk latch and not a power problem.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by whoover
You say you have to "use the metal key." If the trunk lock is in the unlocked position, and the car is unlocked, the trunk should open just by pressing the lock tumbler in. Does it? If not, there is a mechanical problem with the trunk latch and not a power problem.
When the trunk is unlock, it wan't open by just pressing the lock tumbler. I have to put the metal key in and while turning it to the left, I have to press the lock tumbler in. That is the only way it will open.
Does this leads to ant posible diagnostic?
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 04:36 PM
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That's not the way it's supposed to work. It sounds like the lock tumbler, or the linkage inside the truck lid, is misaligned or bent or worn. I think you need the dealer.

To confirm that it mechanical and not electrical, press and hold the remote when standing near the trunk. If you hear it make any noises you know for sure that the SAM, etc. is ok but the release has a mechanical problem.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 04:53 PM
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I took my W220 with the same problem and this is what they stated on the estimate sheet:
"LOOSE CONNECTOR AT THE REAR SAM". I'm not sure what this means, but it corrected the problem. Hope this info helps you to fix it on your own.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Pristine
I took my W220 with the same problem and this is what they stated on the estimate sheet:
"LOOSE CONNECTOR AT THE REAR SAM". I'm not sure what this means, but it corrected the problem. Hope this info helps you to fix it on your own.
It might if I had any idea who SAM was. People keep using these Archean acronyms w/out consideration for the average person...
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 07:32 PM
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If I were to guess what it was, I think it may be some kind of an electronic control module with a loose wire or something.
I picked up the car pritty late, otherwise I would have asked the service advisor.

Last edited by Pristine; Sep 28, 2006 at 07:35 PM.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Jayhawk
It might if I had any idea who SAM was. People keep using these Archean acronyms w/out consideration for the average person...
Let me introduce you to SAM , Signal pickup- and Activation Module (in fuse box)
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by johnny7623
Let me introduce you to SAM , Signal pickup- and Activation Module (in fuse box)
hahaa...at least I got the "Module" part right.
Thanks for letting us know
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 08:20 PM
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Meet SAM

Actually, it's most often rendered Signal Acquisition/Activation Module. Most late-model Mercedes have a "front SAM" and a "rear SAM." They're basically computerized fuse boxes. When you turn your headlights on, for example, it puts a signal on a databus that the SAMs are listening to. The front SAM picks it up and does the actual switching on of the lights. That way, most of the cars "wiring" can be lightweight fiber optics with the SAMs doing all the heavy-current work -- thus they acquire signals and activate power consumers.

An S-class would have hundreds of extra pounds of copper if it didn't use fiber optic networks for signals and switching.

Unfortunately, we all get to meet SAMs through repair bills. A common SAM malfunction, for instance, prevents one of the several databuses (computer networks in your car) from shutting off when you turn the car off. This results in a dead battery that nobody but the dealer has a hope of diagnosing.
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 08:27 PM
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Thanks for the info. guys! I think I almost understand what you are talking about...
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by whoover
That's not the way it's supposed to work. It sounds like the lock tumbler, or the linkage inside the truck lid, is misaligned or bent or worn. I think you need the dealer.

To confirm that it mechanical and not electrical, press and hold the remote when standing near the trunk. If you hear it make any noises you know for sure that the SAM, etc. is ok but the release has a mechanical problem.
Yea, I do hear some kind of noise when I press the remote. So, that means th e SAM is ok. It got to be the mechanical issue. Is there any way to open lock michanism?
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