I got my car back from the shop late last night, drove it around for about 20 minutes, kinda beating it up to see how it felt after the upgrade.

So what bothered me was when it upshifts, it kinda pulls hard right after, I've never had any of my cars tuned before, so maybe it's the extra power?

I don't want to say that it jerks when it upshifts, but it give the car a nice ludge forward, it tested upshifting at lower RPMs and that seemed to be working fine.

They also installed a new MAF, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter and Air Filters.

 

They also lowered the car and put on new rims, so it feels totally different... Feels pretty rough now... but I like it, it handles MUCH better and I feel a lot more confident beating on it.

 

oxygen, what does the kit actually consist of? and any pics of the new setup?

i personally dont have any experience in tuning but it sounds just normal for the upshifts to behave the way they do.

oh, and congrats on the upgrade!!

 

The kit comes with Brabus camshafts, comparing those to the OEM MB camshafts the lobes are wider. You also get a set of valve springs, which are titanium I assume. The Brabus springs are a lot tighter than the factory ones, so now when the engine is idle, you get a lot of ticking and clicking.

They also gave me a set of Bosch Platinum plugs, which I am not using because I had a set of Denso IK16's that we installed at the same time as the camshafts and the valve springs. If any one wants a set of 16 brand new Bosch Platinum plugs (I'll get the specs later), just drop me a PM.

The airbox and the front engine cover got a coat of metalic pewter paint, a few warning stickers from Brabus and the aluminum valve covers got polished.

 

They also gave me a set of Brabus decals, flat badge for the hood, a badge for the trunk, fender emblems and a Brabus badge for the trunk, all are matched in the same pewter metalic color as the engine cover, which should look great on the black paint.

Regarding the lowering, I think it's as low as you can get in the front and back.

I let the car sit for a while and when it lowered it self because it was parked for a certain amount of time, it gets reallyyyyy low, some one could confuse it for the notorious "STOP! CAR TOO LOW!" malfunction... But as soon as you fire up the engine, the car raises a tad and it looks perfect with the rims.

I am working late tonight and I'm sure traffic is going to be killer coming home, so I doubt I'll get any juicy pictures, I want to take the car to a nice spot and get some quality pictures at sunset.

I am waiting on the Brabus gauge cluster still, should be here within the next 2 weeks.

 

Wow, congrats man. Pics?

 

Thanks! It took a lot of work and a lot of greasy hands but in the end it should be well worth it. Maybe not, because I think I voided StarMark by ripping the engine apart... We'll find out.

My next two projects are installing the quad pipe exhaust and when that Brabus 200MPH gauge cluster is available, slap that in.

I really want the AMG body kit, but I kind of like how the facelift bumper looks with the rims when the car is lowered. I am probably going to do the rear bumper and the side skirts.

I am still at work, so by the time I am done here it's going to be too dark. I'll get you guys a nice set of photos by this weekend.

 

Can't wait to see the pics..

 

Yah, the should be pretty. I think I'm going to take her to the beach around 5:30AM or so on saturday and get some nice lighting with the sunlight.

Can you tell me where you got your Brabus bumper from and how much did it run you? Thanks!

 

I purchased it from Status Auto Design and they were Great! I called them like 1,000 times after to ask alot of questions about installation and also tires sizes, lighting etc.. etc.. Dave @ status always came through with a solution.

david@statusautodes******** or go to www.statusautodes********

I purchased mine like a year ago. The front bumper was about $2200 plus shipping (price is prob higher now) the whole kit is about $7,000 including shipping.

 

Well, the car started acting strange the more I drove it. The cherry on the cake was when the CEL came on and it said that the idle fuel mixture has reached the limit at idle in cylinders 1 through 4 and then a second code said the same thing for cylinders 5 through 8.

The engine felt very rough at idle, so I put the car on a flat surface, put it in drive and just let it roll without any accelerator pedal input. It was not rolling smoothly, but giving a slight jerk every few seconds.

On my way home from work, coming out of a complete stop, I would press the pedal and there would be no response from the engine for about 1.5 seconds.

So last night I ripped it apart and I put my original MAF back in (remember we put a new MAF in when we installed the B11 kit...)

I checked a few of the new Denso IK16 plugs and they were perfect.

So now with my old MAF installed, I took the car out, and it was driving perfect. No more jerky shifts, no more rough idle, no more hesitation, the acceleration felt so crisp and clean, like the car was brand new.

So erm, what the fork?!

 

Nice! After reinstalling the OEM MAF, did you feel the upgrades?

Pics bro, post up some photos!

 

Yes, I can feel it. It is very crisp and smooth power, like you get on a brand new S500 with a little bit of a kick to it.

I will have beautiful pictures Sunday, I'm hoping the weather is nice. It's going in for server Saturday at 7:30AM, then it's getting tinted at 9:30AM and then it's back home for a wash and Zaino and then I am still deciding between going to the beach at sunset or at like 5:00AM for the sunrise? <-- For the photoshoot.

 

Are the tints going to dry that fast? I am asking only because a friend of mine recently tinted his Audi and he couldn't lower the windows for two days due to drying time. As for the photos, I find that the period of very early into the sunset is great for photographing black cars - it just blends the paint making look almost liquid, especially following a wax.

Can't wait to see them.

 

Nope they wont, but I don't need to open the windows for the pictures.

 

Are you tinting all the windows except the front?
What numbers are you using.

 

Everything except the windsheild. I am thinking of 25% all around.

This guy has done a few of my cars in the past, and everytime he does a phenominal job. I am going to take off the read deck-lid before the car goes in the bay so they can tint the whole back window and not have to cut around the brake light.

I think the sidewindows on the S-Class are also coated with the solar guard stuff, so when they are tinted they have a silverish hue to them, looks really nice.

Guy is using top notch film and is hooking it all up for $160 cash.

 

He'll brobably be using 20% as 25% is not an option. You can get 35,20,15 or 5%. 50 is a waste of money. Oh, and yes you can dry the tint pretty quick if you use a heat gun during the tint process. Almost the same hour you can roll your windows down.

 

yea my rear windows look greenish and my tint place took off the rear deck and undid the front door panels to get the tint all the way down
check out my pics i post in the other thread "decent weather shots"

 

pics pics pics....

 

Hi Oxygen, sorry to revive this old post but it happens that I'm planning to upgrade my SL with this same kit (I own a mint SL 500 02' with only 19.000km) If possible, I would like to make a couple of questions to you, please let me know if you are available.
Many thanks,
P