opt3

OK, now I've really done it. I was stuck in P so I got the replacement part and installed it right -- I thought. After reassembly, however, it shifted fine but I found the safety feature was absent -- I could shift out of park, but without pressing the brake. Also I am now having some electrical issues, e.g., wipers now don't work, seat and window for front passenger now won't adjust (driver side is good); there are some other similar anomalies.

Well, I've been driving it -- a few hundred miles since the job. But Wednesday things went south. I started keylessly, shifted to N, and after that it wouldn't go back to R or P. That is, it will now only shift between the D and N positions. Pushing it toward R is reminiscent of trying to shift OUT of P before the "repair" job. I inserted the key and it made no difference. And, I cannot shut down the engine (had to remove the fuel pump fuse). The key will not rotate at all, and when I try to stop engine using keyless, the dash message in red says, shift to P. I also had to disconnect battery because car sees the power as being "on." I have not tried to shift by whacking the top of the lever, for what it's worth.

I've reviewed this thread and done other research, but find nothing about this issue in any context. But maybe there's still a way to "re"-repair shifter by going back in and doing it right? I'm trying figure out how to shift back to R and P now, but any hint about what might be the source the electrical anomalies is welcome too, of course. Thank you for any wisdom you can share with me.

trombone

If the replacement part did not block the shifter, the box was not reassembled 100% correct.

Having so much electric issues one wonders if you reconnected all the wires on and around the box in the center console and the connections are clean and tight. There is a history of forgotten wires...

And also, some issues could be unrelated...

vmystikilv

If I were you I would totally get rid of the shifter piece all together , then , I would inspect the wires , I'm willing to bet the spliced and touching each other at the shifter which is causing the short

opt3

Following onto my now-stuck-OUT-of-park problem that I've bungled into, anybody know someone who might remedy it in the Tampa Bay area? I'm actually in Venice, about an hour south of Tampa, so anything from Ft. Myers up to the Bay Area would be helpful if they JUST know this issue!

wallyp

Is there a reason that you don't want to try DIY again? You have been in there once - it should be easier the second time, and you might find it easy to fix the problem.

Skylaw

There is a recommended shops section organized by location at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/u-s-south/ - I don't know if any of them would have special expertise on your problem without looking at it (my own comments on some of the shops are in the Tampa section, together with comments of others) - but I agree with wallyp that you might want to try again (if the plastic link is broken, be sure you remove all the pieces). If not, you have a resource.

opt3

I agree it has to be easier the second time around. The problem is, the first time I somehow blew it, and I fear a repeat. If I had you looking over my shoulder to slap me when I'm about to repeat whatever my mistake was, I'm sure I would be less insecure. Bottom line is, I don't think it would be very smart to repeat the DIY without an extra pair of eyes. Again, I'm in Sarasota County. I haven't found a local shop who works on it, so if anybody actually knows of somebody who does, between Fort Myers and Tampa Bay. . . . Thank you!

jeanjacques

Do you remember you installed the spring which forces the metal lever to lock ?

I'll do the job tomorrow for the first time !

GreatLeoSmile

Thanks for the information. I was hoping my Brake Light Switch was the culprit with my Stuck in Park problem but I was thinking back that it can be one of two things - a water spill into the gearshift box or the broken plastic piece. I think it is the latter. I am taking my car into my non-dealer MBZ mechanic (we should all have one) because if I take the gear shift apart it may never be reassembled.

Did anyone find a company that will remanufacture the plastic piece which breaks into a metal or aluminum piece?

wallyp

Both plastic ($40) and metal ($120 - 200) are available on eBay.

There appear to be three different configurations of this part, and it may not be possible to determine which you have without disassembling your shifter. This vendor shows good photos of all three variations, and sells a set of all three.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-W220-W215-W230-Shifter-Lever-Selector-Repair-Kits-Aluminum-3PCS-RK06-/120997167305?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2bfe40c9&vxp=mtr

GreatLeoSmile

Thanks, WallyP. It's crazy how a piece this important would ever be manufactured from plastic instead of metal or aluminum in the first place. But this safety feature is only available in the U.S.

drewk88

If someone has a broken but complete plastic lever that they are willing to send to me. I'll have a go at making some from billet aluminum. If the sender would like to have an aluminum one, I'll send it for a low price in exchange for supplying me with the broken part. It would be great if I could get one of each of the three types.

GreatLeoSmile

As expected, my mechanic used the diagnostic tool and it came back two issues - the Brake Light Switch and the Gearshift. He hadn't even tested the brake light switch when he tells me in the phone its the Gearshift and I need to replace the whole thing. I told him that I would order the Gear Selector personally and only need him to disassemble the gearshift and replace the $90 part as the entire gearshift is not damaged. He agreed.

I am so glad that I am a member of this page because all of you just saved me a $750 to $1250 dollars in costs at my dealer and secondary mechanic!!!

Allan Thornton

Hi I also have the problem with my 2005 SL500. I was finally able to get the SEM Module out and disassembled. I had 2 major problems and am not sure how to handle getting the shifter back into the center console and connected. I had to remove the clip and from underneath the car but would like some advice on how to get it back. The problem is that I have zero room to get my hand into the small space to reconnect the clip. Do you have any tips seeing how you've already completed the task? I'd appreciate any advice anyone can give me. Tank You .... Alan T

nopark

My CL 320 will not shift to park, Any suggestions?

nopark

My CL 320 does not shift to Park. Any suggestions?

MikeinFLL

Thanks for this info. I can add that if you're stuck in Park, sometimes rocking the car forward and back will allow you to slip it into gear. Then get a rubber mallet immediately. Remove the shift knob by turning the chrome lock 1/4 turn and pull straight off. Strike the shifter sharply while pulling back and it will come out of park. Works until you can get it fixed. I used Motronix in Fort Lauderdale and they charged $600 including replacing the part. For me, better than a replacement shifter and better than trying this DYI.

jnash

I just changed out my OEM plastic gear selector arm inside the module. There are two types of 11mm versions and you really don't know which one is which until you open up the gear select module. Of course I had the other one, but was able to modify (file and use washers) to realign the stud insert to hold the spring to match the OEM one. As our cars get older this mod from plastic to aluminum is am important preventative procedure. Its like to fail when and inconvenience you when you least expect it. However, after 11 years old the plastic one I took out actually looked in great shape but still glad I did it.

wallyp

Since my 2003 S430 will shift without touching the brake pedal, I am assuming that the arm has been removed. I am also guessing that means that I have no way of telling which arm I would need if I wanted to restore normal operation.

jnash

I doubt it's been removed. By design it will lock in park without it. it takes about 10 mins to pull it out to see which one you need.
[EDIT] sorry thats not right. what was I thinking. Trombone is correct below. I had the logic reversed in my head.

trombone

If the plastic blocker has been removed, there is nothing to block the shifter in park.
If the blocker is there and the shifter slides freely out of park then the solenoid is stuck and keeps the blocker's arm in the upright position. I have never heard about such a miraculous solenoid, so my vote is for the removed blocker.

tusabes

I would be happy to have the blocker removed

As long as you don't have kids who could knock it and are careful I prefer no blocker as it makes the car easy to roll if the battery dies

FrankBoni

just went through this whole thing, removed the piece and i'm fine the way it works. My mechanic installed a replacement part but it didn't work. It works without the safety feature and I'm fine with it.

collinrjones

Me and my MB mechanic (he has put in 8 of the metal replacement kits) tried something new. We just removed the broken plastic part that breaks along with the metal part with the spring its attached to because I was in a hurry to get out of town for a planned vacation. Start to finish took only 2 hours and worked out just fine. The only catch is, you no longer have to put your foot on the brake to get it out of PARK. I have owned many MB's my first being an '82 300SD and back then, any would come out of park without the brake being compressed. If your alright with that, then I recommend this method and you will never have to worry about that problem again. By the way, I am 150 miles from any MB dealer and the mechanic I trust, so if you don't want to pay for a tow, slide off the shifter knob and do the trick with hitting the top of the shifter with a hammer while jiggling it....may take about 10 minutes, but it'll pop out and you'll be good to go. Collin

bigkev#44

I want to start out saying thank you everyone on this forum for the information given regarding this horrible piece of plastic that disable such a nice car. This past weekend we had to drop my son off to college at Georgia Southern University, course the car pick the perfect time for that horrible plastic piece to fail. As everyone said the dealer wanted 1300 - 1500 to replace the whole shifter and put the same plastic piece back in. So after following some of the instructions ( which were very detailed) you guys posted online, it took about an hour to take the center console off, remove the shifter and take out the plastic piece which had completely broken into two pieces. The only tough part if you can call it tough, was getting the little clip off the shifter linkage that connects to the shifter. I did have to drill out the 2 rivets but overall not bad. You guys are awesome on his forum that was great information thanks a bunch.