Anyone Have This Stuck In Park Problem?
#176
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Location: Suwanee, GA
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2003 S430
New lever in - child safety feature still not active
I was driving the car without the child safety feature until I got a replacement part (metal lever and it does match the original plastic to the dot). Now that I had the part, I put it in along with other pieces I removed earlier. When I re-connected the shifter, I still see that the child safety feature is still not enabled. I can pull the shifter out of park WITHOUT having to press on the braker. To my utter dismay, I cannot figure out what I might be missing here.
Anyone run into this problem? Any pointers on what to start looking at to fix this issue?
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
Do you know of any independent shop in Atlanta area that can help me fix this if I were to take the shifter to them.
Anyone run into this problem? Any pointers on what to start looking at to fix this issue?
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
Do you know of any independent shop in Atlanta area that can help me fix this if I were to take the shifter to them.
#178
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2003 S430
Update
I wanted to update with the resolution to my problem. When I removed the plastic part earlier, I removed the metal lever (black one with circlip) just beyond it which is spring loaded and will move up and lock the shifter. When I was putting back all the parts back in with later with the new part, the metal lever was not spring loaded and I could not quite remember that it was spring loaded originally. When I read through multiple posts and looked at close up pictures, it clicked. This image was the one that helped me.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...S55/Benz19.jpg
Hopefully, it will come in handy for someone else in the future. Also, I have to give props to Mitchell at Monoglobal for the prompt responses and making the purchase a very pleasant experience.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...S55/Benz19.jpg
Hopefully, it will come in handy for someone else in the future. Also, I have to give props to Mitchell at Monoglobal for the prompt responses and making the purchase a very pleasant experience.
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
#179
I just remove my shifter opened it took out the bull**** black plastic piece, put back together everything in about a hour and a half.. Wow!! and the only tools I need was a puddy knife, some hex keys, big and a little screwdriver... And I saved $1300 thanks to thus site and the bloggers..... Str8 Brooklyn New York
#181
Any one have this problem or fix this on the 1990 190E. I am pressing on brake and can't move shifter with car running. It sat a while but runs great. I am told it has a interlock cable from the brake to shifter thru console and it does not have an electrical switch. Has anyone had this problem and what what steps should I take in checking cable or diagnosing problem
Thanks
Pat
Thanks
Pat
#183
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Weston, CT
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2003 S 430 4 Matic
Stuck in Park no longer
Just want to say thanks to Kerno at Benzworld and all those who have posted solutions to the "Stuck in Park" problem. Using your expert advice and write ups, I "fixed" my Stuck in Park problem by completely removing the broken plastic piece along with the metal lever the plastic piece engages and moves. Result is there will be no "stuck" problem any longer. The whole procedure took about four hours from start to finish working very slowly and carefully. Thanks again!
#184
01 cl 600 center consol removal.
im having this same issue with my cl 600s shifter. has anyone taken the center consol apart on this model? i have the rear black portion loose, but im afraid of cracking the front portion. shifter knob and gear plate is off but where do i go from here? i cant find a way to seperate the woodgrain from the rest or does it all come out together? HELP!!!!!!
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
#185
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Location: San Francisco, CA
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2004 SL55 AMG
Another MBZ 'stick in park' victim here. Same story as others… my SL55 AMG became harder/stickier to get out of park and then one day I’m fully locked. I got a sweet $1,780 FU from the dealership to fix it. Has anyone been able to seek compensation/reimbursement from Mercedes-Benz? This is brutal.
Last edited by Cali-MB; 11-21-2011 at 04:06 AM.
#186
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Location: Los Angeles
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SL500 and S500 Coupe
stuck in park
the dealer ripped me off the day before my birthday. i had to pay downtown LA Motors $1,400. to fix this problem. i was told i had to buy the part from them and had to have them install it for 5 hours labor. i felt robbed because i never take my car to the dealer but Mercedes has a monopoly on this part and service. i agree a recall is in order!
#187
cc
My 2002 S 500 just locked up on me. Fortunately I was ready for it! I followed the instruction here and removed the broken plastic piece. All is well. It took about 4 hours but the next time I could do it in 1! Thanks everyone! If anyone has questions I will be happy to help since it is so fresh in my mind. I was lucky that mine locked up in the garage. I can't imagine doing that repair on the side of the road.
#188
hi u guys are very helpful anyway i have this stuck in park problem with my 02 S500 change my rear driver side lens after finish went to start the car there is a sign on the dash said replace brake lite bulb i went to check bulb look pretty good to me anyway i went the parts shop to get a replacement bulb and got stuck in park i have to pay $75 dollars to have it towed to my house do anyone have any sugession that i can work with are how i could go about fixing this problem .
#189
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Join Date: Dec 2004
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2005 S500 4-Matic, 1978 450SL
^Amazing, delworthw2002.
Punctuation exists for a reason.
And the answer to your stuck in park problem is right in this thread, if you take the time to read it. Sources for parts are also there.
There is absolutely no reason to write it all out again, just for you.
Punctuation exists for a reason.
And the answer to your stuck in park problem is right in this thread, if you take the time to read it. Sources for parts are also there.
There is absolutely no reason to write it all out again, just for you.
Last edited by Skylaw; 12-02-2011 at 08:09 AM.
#190
Admany2! Can someone tell me what is the name of this piece of plastic causing gear to stuck in park called, was seraching online to find the parts(plastic) but unable to find it, I even went to stealership site to see if I can locate it with pic but unable to locate. Pls. Tell me what name to search for when looking to buy this part(plastic) causing the gear to stuck in park....Thanks all.
#193
I'm willing to help out a fellow NY'er. It took me 4 hours first time (terrible tools that kept breaking, had to cut grooves in a torx head to use new driver), but I think w/the right tools; I would be able to help someone in 1 hour or so.
Not too hard w/a hand.
Not too hard w/a hand.
#194
has anyone done this on a CL500 W215
Hi I own a 2003 CL500 and was thinking about doing this fix. However I am unsure how to take off the rest of the center console on this car and was wondering if it was even necessary. I used this youtube video to take out the radio and all the trim on top of the shifter before
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWWj14ID3Lw
but never took off the rest of the console. I tried looking for the screws on the side like in the S430 youtube video but could not find any. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWWj14ID3Lw
but never took off the rest of the console. I tried looking for the screws on the side like in the S430 youtube video but could not find any. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
#195
To all you fellow "stuck in park" S-Class owners! Here is a very easy step by step video on how to fix the problem. Read the comments below the video regarding advice on how to find the part on google if you are a purist and insist on replacing it. I made the video two years ago when it happened to me. I chose not to replace the part. No issues with the shifter since.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsxUFVtdPHk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsxUFVtdPHk
#196
Gear selector levers in stock - all models - express shipping
http://www.monoglobal.com.au/
I have all the levers in stock and ship daily.
Repair your ESM lever properly - do not just remove your broken part because your car can be then released from park by children in the car - it's no good if your car rolls down the hill with the kids in it.......
Exclusive offer for mbworld readers - Mention mbworld with your order and I will include 3 day express shipping with TNT for FREE
Easy to fit by DIY'er or MBZ workshops.
![](http://www.monoglobal.com.au/images/GB3004.2web.jpg)
I have all the levers in stock and ship daily.
Repair your ESM lever properly - do not just remove your broken part because your car can be then released from park by children in the car - it's no good if your car rolls down the hill with the kids in it.......
Exclusive offer for mbworld readers - Mention mbworld with your order and I will include 3 day express shipping with TNT for FREE
Easy to fit by DIY'er or MBZ workshops.
![](http://www.monoglobal.com.au/images/GB3004.2web.jpg)
#197
I also had my S430 2002 lock in park. The Mercedes Dealer said this problem was not common. I checked the internet and have seen 100s of these complaints. Obviously this is a defect which merits a recall. Mercedes now upped the price to $1,300 to fix. Apparently this shifter is under the TRP (anti-theft protection) law. This means you can only go to the dealer to fix this. Non Mercedes Dealers cannot fix this because the law prohibits it and Mercedes will not sell the shifter part to an outsider. Because no one is complaining to the right authorities (filing a class action petition and asking for a recall on these vehicles). This problem will continue and the price of this problem will soar. When the class action is won EVERYONE will get their monies back. Does anyone know a lawyer who is willing to take on this case?
#198
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2002 S430
I just finished repairing the shifter in my S430 2002. Not a story, but for some experience others might find useful. When it came to get the shifter box I removed two of the three bolts easily. Now, make a guess: how long did it take to remove the third bolt (base, right hand side). Wrong. It was about 4 hours, spread over two days. Our beloved manufacturer puts a generous load of thread lock adhesive on each of the bolts. Two of them budged, the third was impossible to move. Applying greater and greater force, the hex driver finally totally destroyed the hex shape in the head. There is no room to get a good grip with a locking plier or a wrench. I did not want to drill since the plastic wall of the air duct is nearly on the screw. Dead - end for the tame. Next morning I decided to go brutal, took a 3/8 bit and drilled away the bolt head, minimal damage on the air duct. Lifting the shifter box out all went by the book, that is, by the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsxUFVtdPHk (thank you Rolandesq; see also the posting # 105 of this thread). I was positive I did not just want to remove and discard the little black devil. Unlocking park may result in accidents. Also, if it comes to sell the car, a removed blocker is a defect that must be disclosed, it could be a deal breaker or it may hurt your negotiating position at the least. Most likely my car will be driven by my teenage son in a few years, so not replacing the blocker was simply not an option. The blocker was not broken apart, it had a good crack. So I followed the lead by Garyizd1 #131 (thanks), I used the US Loctite E-120HP Hysol version of epoxy. I also manufactured two small aluminum splints and glued one on either side. Glue job done I let the epoxy set and taken off in my wife’s car to the dealership to get a new bolt, $1.90 a piece. It had to be ordered, project delayed one more day. No sooner I got home I started to work on the removal of the headless screw sticking out from the floor board. Dozens of tricks tried, none helped. I even heated up a smaller nut to cherry red, wanting put it on the stem and let it cool. This could give a no-yield grip. Alas, rather than going on the stem neatly, it jumped under the driver seat. No, I did not set my car on fire, but you just do not do this. Brute force needed again. I tried a saw blade, but you cannot exert enough force to make a scratch on the screw (there is no room for a framed hacksaw). A quick trip to the hardware, got a cut-off wheel (a disc blade), put it in the power drill and cut off the screw near to the bottom. Then I drove a nut on the small stem, and with a drill bit fitting the hole in the nut I drilled the stem off. The nut kept the bit neatly in direction, so the floor board was not damaged at all. Next day after work I picked up the bolt from the dealer (sure enough, there was a thick layer of thread lock on the bolt), assembled the box, and the job was finished in an hour. One more little headache: when I connected the box to the transmission linkage, the shifter jumped up to P. Then it is impossible to handle the front screw. I reconnected the wires to the box, started the car, moved the shifter a little out of park, then the key is still removable. After removing the key from the ignition I pulled the shifter down to N, and the pin was no longer a hindrance. Now my shifter works perfect, and my MB (Magnificent Buggy) is back on the road. I had fun with this project thru 3 days, this much about the expected 4 hours fix. Actually it is quite a realistic time if the screws do not screw you, and if you use a replacement part rather than wait for the epoxy to set and cure. By the way, the blocker has a part number (PP 220 267 319) but it does not help. The dealership does not sell any part inside the shifter box. A complete new box is available for around $700.00 with tax. And I am bit surprised no one reported any problem with the thread lock.
#199
MBWorld Fanatic!
I just finished repairing the shifter in my S430 2002. Not a story, but for some experience others might find useful. When it came to get the shifter box I removed two of the three bolts easily. Now, make a guess: how long did it take to remove the third bolt (base, right hand side). Wrong. It was about 4 hours, spread over two days. Our beloved manufacturer puts a generous load of thread lock adhesive on each of the bolts. Two of them budged, the third was impossible to move. Applying greater and greater force, the hex driver finally totally destroyed the hex shape in the head. There is no room to get a good grip with a locking plier or a wrench. I did not want to drill since the plastic wall of the air duct is nearly on the screw. Dead - end for the tame. Next morning I decided to go brutal, took a 3/8 bit and drilled away the bolt head, minimal damage on the air duct. Lifting the shifter box out all went by the book, that is, by the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsxUFVtdPHk (thank you Rolandesq; see also the posting # 105 of this thread). I was positive I did not just want to remove and discard the little black devil. Unlocking park may result in accidents. Also, if it comes to sell the car, a removed blocker is a defect that must be disclosed, it could be a deal breaker or it may hurt your negotiating position at the least. Most likely my car will be driven by my teenage son in a few years, so not replacing the blocker was simply not an option. The blocker was not broken apart, it had a good crack. So I followed the lead by Garyizd1 #131 (thanks), I used the US Loctite E-120HP Hysol version of epoxy. I also manufactured two small aluminum splints and glued one on either side. Glue job done I let the epoxy set and taken off in my wife’s car to the dealership to get a new bolt, $1.90 a piece. It had to be ordered, project delayed one more day. No sooner I got home I started to work on the removal of the headless screw sticking out from the floor board. Dozens of tricks tried, none helped. I even heated up a smaller nut to cherry red, wanting put it on the stem and let it cool. This could give a no-yield grip. Alas, rather than going on the stem neatly, it jumped under the driver seat. No, I did not set my car on fire, but you just do not do this. Brute force needed again. I tried a saw blade, but you cannot exert enough force to make a scratch on the screw (there is no room for a framed hacksaw). A quick trip to the hardware, got a cut-off wheel (a disc blade), put it in the power drill and cut off the screw near to the bottom. Then I drove a nut on the small stem, and with a drill bit fitting the hole in the nut I drilled the stem off. The nut kept the bit neatly in direction, so the floor board was not damaged at all. Next day after work I picked up the bolt from the dealer (sure enough, there was a thick layer of thread lock on the bolt), assembled the box, and the job was finished in an hour. One more little headache: when I connected the box to the transmission linkage, the shifter jumped up to P. Then it is impossible to handle the front screw. I reconnected the wires to the box, started the car, moved the shifter a little out of park, then the key is still removable. After removing the key from the ignition I pulled the shifter down to N, and the pin was no longer a hindrance. Now my shifter works perfect, and my MB (Magnificent Buggy) is back on the road. I had fun with this project thru 3 days, this much about the expected 4 hours fix. Actually it is quite a realistic time if the screws do not screw you, and if you use a replacement part rather than wait for the epoxy to set and cure. By the way, the blocker has a part number (PP 220 267 319) but it does not help. The dealership does not sell any part inside the shifter box. A complete new box is available for around $700.00 with tax. And I am bit surprised no one reported any problem with the thread lock.