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Ended up fixing it by buying new rubber grommets for about $10 for all three. When replacing them, slide them first onto the motor and then push it into the plastic reservior.
Yeah I took the easy way and cheapest way without having to replace the entire hose. The hose wasn't expensive but it wasn't needed just the nipple being cracked...
I have this same problem with my 2004 S55. Went to autobarn for the vacu tight hoses and the hoses were too small. So I cut the hose where the clamp goes onto the pump and put the hose straight on to the pump (very tight) bypassing the clamp....(type of clamp doesn't make sense to me). I still have a slight leak. I am going to change the grommets and see what happens.
Different day, same story. Dealer found the leak (I never knew) and asked $220 to replace the tank. I went as advised above to AutoZone, spent $3.99 and 3 min to fix it.
YEah it was tricky as the leak started out very very subtle.. It was like it was evaporating in thin air... Finally it got to the point where I was filling the reservoir everytime I put in gas and i thought Hmm there is no waaay I am using this much fluid.. I use a lot because where I live the bugs come out looking for my car while I am driving at night... LOL
But I put a little positive air pressure to the reservoir and I saw right away where it was coming from...
Yor dealer is lame..LOL that sounds so stupid.. there is a pin hole in the reservoir cap to prevent vacuum lock. so that was dumb.. Also what good are the headlight washers if they suck all of the fluid right?? These guys crack me up sometimes...
I hope they finally fixed yours whatever they ended up doing..
Anyway... I'm sure someone else will have this problem sooner or later. so Don't go paying 90 bucks plus labor for the entire hose when its just a very simple mod to get rid of that problem forever....
Thai you kind sir as I seem to have the same issue with mine I noticed yesterday and will tryout your method. Also the top cap is completely cracked and might have to replace it with a new one. Need to find something without buying the entire reservoir. Will let you know.
Another Repair Option Found for Leaking Washer Pump Linkage
For those of you who are having a leak at the connection of the washer fluid pump to the output hose, I found another alternative to my06clk's Vacu-tite hose package 47430 at Autozone. I went to O'Reilly's and found that Vacu-tite makes another Vacuum Connector Assortment Kit - 47432. I used one of the connectors that has a small end and a larger end that makes a very tight fit to both the washer pump outlet and the output hose inlet - since they are slightly different sizes. See attached pictures...
hey guys. i'm having a problem. i have a 2004 cl600 and have the leak at the connector from the windshield wiper pump to the hose. bought both suggested kits, auto zone # 47430 and vacu tite # 47432. my problem is i can't fit any of the connectors over the connector on the hose. can anyone give me some advice on how the fit the vacuum connector over the hose fitting. it appears that the hose fitting is between 1/4 and 3/8 inch. any advice would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
Dealer wanted $472.00 to "replace the washer fluid reservoir and piping" (This was an exact quote); I said forget it. Spent a Saturday afternoon and good as new.
thanks to your instructions i was able to fix the leak on my 2003 s55 amg ,i used very hot water to make the new rubber hose more pliable and i also fixed it in 10minutes
thanks again for sharing
danny
the part numbr for the Vacu-tite hose package is 47430 at Autozone...
Take the 1/8 X 2" from the package and trim 1/2" so that it will clear the light assy.
Force one end onto the plastic heater line connector, and insert the other end to the pump nipple for a good clean, leakproof seal.
my06clk,
Thank you soo much for this post. I was asked to replace my pump and whatnot... I replaced as shown in your pics and explanation. Now to see if there is another leak or I just fixed it !!!! Kuddos.. I love mbworld forums.. saved 1000's !!
the part numbr for the Vacu-tite hose package is 47430 at Autozone...
Take the 1/8 X 2" from the package and trim 1/2" so that it will clear the light assy.
Force one end onto the plastic heater line connector, and insert the other end to the pump nipple for a good clean, leakproof seal.
but instead of the vaccutite hose package i just forced a small hose over both the line connector and the nipple (had to hold pump in place as it wanted to move..(i put it on line connector first) fixed for about 5 cents and about 5 minutes of time..hell of a lot cheaper than MB wanted to replace entire heater line etc etc....thanks for this thread ....saved me several hundred with just this simple repair
Finally I nailed down the source of my washer fluid leak.
On the reservior there are three connections, the center one is the pump and heating line for the window washer jets.
The the connection to the pum from the line was leaking because it is just a piece of plastic that is forced over another plastic tube fitting. Over time heat expands the little plastic fitting and causes a small leak.
I checked the dealer and this fitting comes with the entire heated line assembly for $90.00!!!!! "for a piece of 3ft rubber hose??? NOT Today" I said.
Plus this is another stupid design, so I didn't want to put the same thing back for the next guy... So.....
I went to autozone and bought a peice of rubber hose that was smaller than the connector, forced it over the plastic connector,cut it to about 2" and attached the other end to the pump nipple and PRESTO!!!
a quick modification that cost me $3.89.
check this video out if you have a washer fluid issue.
Tried all methods mentioned here on MY06S350, but nothing seems to work. I even replaced the grommet with an OEM one!
The worst is that I drive all over during the day, sometimes even 150 miles, with a full reservoir at all times (I really check it every stop...). Upon arriving home, I recheck and verify the fluid is still at the top, and THEN COMES THE NIGHT..... I enter the garage in the morning, and the floor is wet, with blue borders (washer fluid), and the reservoir is empty to slightly above the pump's grommet level. Everything at the pump's base is moist, so I can't really determine the exact source of leak.
One thought I had is temperature contraction; why at night? Maybe because everything cools down, and that's when some crack, somewhere, opens and fluid leaks. I took the pump out and looked at it with surgeon's magnifying lenses, but nothing! Also, blocking the out nipple of the pump, then I blow into the pump but it's perfectly sealed !!!!
I'm so annoyed! It's not the $2.29 for the fluid I fill daily; it's the hustle I'm really tired of.
i had the same exact problem and tried everything you did multiple times. still leaked. i finally bought a new pump on amazon for like $8.00 and it fixed my problem. my old pump was working, but apparently some how was siphoning very slowly when not in use. as i said a new pump fixed the problem.
biker349 Thank you!
Just Amazon'ed a pump $8.14 inc tax & shipping.
I also kinda suspect the pump, because is does have washer fluid dry marks above(!) some kind of a 8x2mm opening, on the opposite side of the nipple ...
Even if it's not the pump, the price is worth the try...
I'll report after replacement.
Biker349 thank you, it WORKED!!!!!!!
Usually on the first night after filling fluid, it'll leak, loosing most fluid.
It has been 3 nights, and no leak at all!
This thread helped me a lot to stop leaks on my w221 S550. What ended up solving the problem was replacing the rubber seals on the tank to the pumps (headlight and windshield) as well as the seal on the level sensor (was deteriorated when I pulled it out). All on the bottom part of tank. Next to impossible to fit these grommet - like seals with the tank in place. It was fiddly, but I removed the tank without taking out lights or trim. The pumps just lift out (pull back and up), but there is VERY LITTLE room. You have to remove the pumps and disconnect the wire plug to the sensor before the tank will come free. Remove the plastic engine cover and air intake and try to move as much "plumbing" out of the way. The tank will come out (only held in with bolt on top).... This is all W221, but the sentiment is to replace ALL the rubber seal/grommets if you're in there already....
... and the leak came back. Turned out to be the pump itself. Remember to change the pumps while you are in there. Problem now solved and every possible leak point has been addressed!
Filled mine up and noticed fluid under right front tire, along the inside of the passenger's door and also puddle at the back... has anyone had this problem before..
I know this is an old thread but I thought I would add a quick solution to the leaky fitting by using an OEM part that I used on my R107. I found that it fixes the washer fluid leak on my W220 perfectly. It's a stepped vacuum connector MB part number 117-078-04-81 and goes for about $4 at several online sellers. See pictures attached. The larger step fits snugly over the larger elbow on the washer hose and the smaller step fits perfectly over the nipple on the washer pump. It's a bit of a U shape but it can be trimmed at any position to make it fit the way you like. Best Regards, Steve
I had to fix my tank. The bottom seam was leaking,.as soon as I removed the wheel well cover and poured in some water to observe the leak,it was clearly the seam. I had already purchased some JB brand epoxy plastic weld and a roll of netting used for dywall taping, and some duct tape,. Used a few popcicle sticks to smear the JB weld onto the seam first a heavy coat,then cut a slice of the drywall netting tape to cover the entuire bottom of the tank and smoothed it into the area of the repair, had to keep working it until it started to grab on it's own. Then a second application of the expoxy, and placed a long bead of the epoxy in the middle of the tape length wise centering it over the seam area and pushed that up onto the tank. I actually placed the netting material and the duct tape up around the sides going up the tank on both ends to be sure the split would not creep up past the point of where it already leaked, I had pondered just replacing the tank itself but if the tanks split on the seam, why replace instead of repair? I did not even need to remove the tank. Just sanded the repair area with 100grit sandpaper and did the repair. I am sure the bottom is more solid now after the repair then a new tank would have been. Actually was an easy fix.
Finally I nailed down the source of my washer fluid leak.
On the reservior there are three connections, the center one is the pump and heating line for the window washer jets.
The the connection to the pum from the line was leaking because it is just a piece of plastic that is forced over another plastic tube fitting. Over time heat expands the little plastic fitting and causes a small leak.
I checked the dealer and this fitting comes with the entire heated line assembly for $90.00!!!!! "for a piece of 3ft rubber hose??? NOT Today" I said.
Plus this is another stupid design, so I didn't want to put the same thing back for the next guy... So.....
I went to autozone and bought a peice of rubber hose that was smaller than the connector, forced it over the plastic connector,cut it to about 2" and attached the other end to the pump nipple and PRESTO!!!
07-01-2010, 02:35 PM
had same issue
