jfendis430

Hey guys yesterday I took apart my 20 inch 3 piece wheels as I am having the centers re-powder coated from black to titanium gray (S65 look). Does anyone here have knowledge with re-assembly. I just want some advice on re-assembly should I use loctite on the bolts as I put them back in. The two halves are still well in tact I have not touched them. what should the bolts be re-torqued at? any advice would be appreciated. I will post pics once I get them back.

jfendis430

anybody?

Benz5656

I had to take mine apart when I had the wheels cut. Your best bet is the call the manufacturer and get the specs.

fkong777

When me and by brother use to take apart wheels for refinish. We were told by epsilon wheels that about 25-30ft lb of torque on each bolt is enough. however you must tighten the bolts in a cross bolt tightening pattern. to even out the load so you dont distort the rim if you tighen all the both on one side before the othe side.

Your wheel may have different torque specs.

HDM

Hey buddy whats going on,

Give me the wheel brand and model. That way I can find out what hardware is being used, such as 7mm or 8mm bolts.. 10.9 or 12.9, how many if any hidden bolts, you know regular tech info I need so I can better assist with you this process.

Iceman

Try this link:

http://www.ccwheel.com/files/technical.php

I know they are not the same wheels, but I would think that the procedure is very close. The only real difference could be the torque needed on the bolts based on their size. Good luck!

jfendis430

Thanks guys for all the info and help the wheels are the following brand and size.

Wheel Specs. There are no hidden bolts.

Collectizone DD1's 20X9 front 20X10 rear

attached is a pic of the wheels on an s500 you really cant see the bolts but there are about 45 bolts per wheel I believe. Here is there website.

http://www.collectizonewheels.com/

Here are some close up pics. I took a while back of the wheels maybe these would help
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...696&highlight=

HDM

What’s up buddy?
Ok check this out; I hope you marked the centers that belong to each inner and outer wheel halves prior to the teardown of the wheels. This is the procedure we always do when we teardown and rebuilt 3 piece wheels. I always recommend using new hardware when doing a 3 piece wheel rebuilt, as the bolts tend to stretch and are more prone to future failure, it can be a little expensive but let me know if need the hardware I can provide you with it. It looks to me like collectizone is using the very popular chrome steel m8 hardware check the picture out and correct me if I’m wrong.



Make sure your paint shop does not paint on the center piece mounting flange (the part that meets the wheel halves) as it may cause a distorted overall wheel roundness when bolted together. Also make sure the wheel mounting pad and the hub of the wheel don’t get painted this also can cause distortion as wheels are installed on the vehicle. Doing those things will get a you smooth riding wheel. Another thing I’m pretty sure it will be very hard to find a wheel indexing rig where you are at. We have one here at our shop, what we use it for? Right before tighten all the hardware we tighten at least 4 or 5 bolts on the wheels and this rig helps us check for any out of roundness that the whole wheel assembly might have. In the case we see a distortion we are able to adjust the whole assembly and make it as much round as possible. Remember not every wheel is 100 percent perfectly round but the closer you get it to that perfect roundness the less chances you have of any vibration problems. If such rig is not feasible you can have a shop that has a hunter gsp9700 check the wheel out of roundness for you before you install the tires. but any ways your wheels hardware should be tighten between 28-30 ft lbs of torque it should be done in a star formation and do it in 2 sessions, first tighten all the bolts to 15 ft lbs in a star formation and then finalize it by tightening to the final torque. This also helps to ensure no distortion on the wheel assembly. Prior to bolting the wheel assembly together you might as well re silicone the wheel to prevent or minimize the chances of wheel leaks. Do this by cleaning every single wheel halves at the silicone area make sure there is no silicone left before applying new silicone. First you can use a blade to scrape off the silicone as much as possible. After that you can use a scuffing wheel to finish the removal of the silicone. When silicone is completely gone use acetone to finish prepping the area for the new silicone. For silicon I recommend DAP dynaflex 3.0 advance all purpose sealant. It can be any color we use the clear one because it helps detect any air bubbles if any. This silicone can be bought at a hardware store. In my personal opinion is the best silicone I have ever used. If you use this silicon wait at least 12 hour before installing the tires. If you use any other silicon wait at least 24 hours before installing the wheels. I would recommend you use lock tite, but remember in the case you have to tear down the wheels again it’s not going to be easy, but it gives you that extra assurance.

Let me know if I can be of any more help. Or if you have further questions call me at 305-238-5112 HDM .
ASK FOR CARLOS I will be glad to help you…..

jfendis430

THANK YOU so much you are right on with the m8 hardware. That would be great if you can give me a quote on all the new hardware. Yes I did mark the centers to go with each wheel. when I took the centers off I deflated the tires but they are still on the wheels the centers are still on and they are on very tight? should I remov them even if they are on like concrete? Again your info has been awesome. I look forward to the quote for the new hardware.

jfendis430

Ok all fours wheels are taken apart and will be headed to the powdercoater in the next few days when I have some time. I decided to go with gunmetal gray for the centers like the s65 wheels and keep the lips chrome.....I will post pics once I get them back and have them assembled and on the car. I also decided to pull my aftermarket FULL AMG body kit that has been collecting dust in the basement for 8 months and dropped that off to my body guy should be ready in a few weeks...so end result I will have a different more aggresive s class once its all done. Hope two have pics. up in the next few weeks. Thanks.

HDM

Hi there Joe,

Let us know if you are still interested in the hardware.

Alfonso @ HDM

jfendis430

Hey There Alfonso ...I would but your price is a little steep. I think my hardware is in good shape, just needs to be degreased and washed.

my06clk

Don't forget to loctite and use a cross patttern when tighning. I beleve the torque for an M8 is 3o Ft lbs but you can use any spec sheet to find out for sure. With that many bolts the standard torque should be fine.

jfendis430

thanks will do wheels should be back from powder coater next week.

jfendis430

Here are two pics. I took with my blackberry they dont look correct in the photo they are more mettallic and shiny I will take some better pics this weekend. They were a pain in the *** to put back together AMG bodykit coming soon. Stop by the body shop today, kit is primed and ready for paint. I will post pics once AMG kit goes on and the corners are color matched to the car. Only thing left is to find out out what to do with those tail lights hmm??