i got an S430 with all options. i was wondering if theres any easy way to lower the airmatic suspension

 

www.adjustableairride.com lowering links plain and simple.

 

Links = risky in the long term

There are only two truly safe ways about lowering the Airmatic. Star Diagnostic and lowering modules.

 

long term?....care to elaborate?.........i would think links would be the same as a module or star diag.

 

+1 for this...works great for me!

 

who in the hell says its risky, i know plenty of people on these for years and custom lowering links and they are perfect.....are u saying that just because you did star diagnostics?

 

Disagree...

The Rears come with and adjustable link from the factory. where the risk?

Lowering is lowering.. it just depends if you care to spend less than 200 or much more than 500. I can assure you that to the ECM, it all looks the same.

 

I spent $5 on lowering

 

LAST NIGHT I HAD SOME HATERS behind my car >>>>>on motorcyles, saying out loud, WHO LOWERS A BENZ? as if it was something stupid.....

 

You should have yelled "Everyone"..LoL

 

I was on links for years and switched over to Star lowering. Links = fooling the Airmatic system which also = incorrect dampening values.

Here: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/250644-airmatic-failure-again.html

Look at what I argued in post #34, exactly what you guys are arguing.

 

Well I guess this argument can go on forever... Here's a quote from the other post:

" HAHA!! If only we had some shocks to get....
I've used all the methods. In fact, i still have my set of front links that were modified from way before aftermarket ones were available. BUT, the ELM and STAR lowerings are different in how the car responds to the lower. The washers simply fool the computer, whereas the ELM (RT's) and STAR do not. They both change the target that the computer is looking for. In the end, yes they both lower. But, the ride is a big difference. "
__________________

Weather you use links to "trick" the computer or change the values, you end up at the same place.

I think some of this agument can be attributed to owners talking about slamming their cars instead of just lowering them a bit.
THere is a HUGE difference when you cross the threshold by slamming your car. To that point I can see where electroniclly managing the heigh may have a better end result but the point is, if you car is slammed it doesn;t matter.. you're waaay more likely to pop a strut anyway because of the support lost.

So, for my example, and these aren;t actual values but,, if for example your car is programmed from the factory to be at 48.5" all around with a value of .250 mv being sent from all three transducers right?. Okay so you want a height of 47.5 so you start twisting your links till you get the desired height.
In order to get the value back to .250mv you offset the length of the link which changes the physical height of the car. You still have .250mv at the transducers..
The drop on these cars is less than 1 inch and thats after +80 mph for a specified time. So, even if you are pretty low, you will only get another .75 or so drop as you;re speeding along the tollway.

Point is, if you do this sing the star.. Whereas the factory value may have been ,250mv it was looking for, you have the luxury of changing that value to .300, .350, ,225, or whatever you want.

The physical position of a device always corresponds to a pre programmed logical input unless one or the other is modified.

Links modify the physical, star or modules modify the logic. Nothing will ever go out of whack unless the physical input is lost completely.

Again none of this matters when a car is slammed.

I wouldn't waste my money on a module for any car. especially a pre 2003 when they are prone to airmatic issues in the first place.

But then again, I am fully prepared to replace my struts myself whenever the time comes..

 

Haha, I'm always impressed with your knowledge of these cars D, but I'm gonna stick to Star lowering for now. Makes me sleep better.

Quoted so you cannot take back those words when and in case you do get those struts replaced. NOT FUN.

 

Ha ha.. Okay.. They actually aren't that bad I've taken a few benz suspensions apart already and I've replaced much larger struts than these plenty times before...

My big whoah is having to shell out the 1200 each for he new one's.

I didn't know you did yours DIY?

I know I said it before, but those wheels look GREAT on that car...

 

I didn't DIY. It wasn't fun paying for it.

 

How did you spend only 5

 

You might note that post dates from 2008 - I doubt very much if he is still around the Forum...

 

washers stacked up in the height rod

 

"Lowering Suspension"
Mercedes (and other 'performance vehicle' makers' spend a LOT of time and Money selecting the Overall Best suspension system design and components.

When an Owner decides to alter things to achieve what they consider 'better' performance' in a particular driving condition, often they are fully aware of the collateral changes they are making. Stresses on flexible rubber bushings, ball joints, wheel bearings, wheels, tires, steering components, drive-line joints and supports CHANGE. SOME of those changes are detrimental to component life or 'performance' in other driving environments. SOME changes can lead to catastrophic failures, even death.
OEM's select what they believe is "The Best Compromise" for the vehicle in its expected driving environment and with 'normal' Owner expectations.