S-Class (W220) 1999-2006: S 320 CDI, S 320, S430, S 500, S 600

My God Damm Radio....again.........

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Old 10-29-2008, 05:17 PM
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'00 S-500, E-430S, '88 Mustang
My God Damm Radio....again.........

Ok ...so my radio turned off MaGiCaLlY again!!!
Went to work worked fine......started it to go home....and nothing.
Checked the AMP fuse----fine, replaced it anyway, pulled the whole **** out of the hole....and pulled out the DB2 cable off for few min......and ...NOTHING!
What the hell ?? ? ..Radio has power, changes stations, shows NO CD Changer, .....at least before it was a fuse now im lost!!!!
How often does this happen to the W220??
Old 10-29-2008, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by E43 S
Ok ...so my radio turned off MaGiCaLlY again!!!
Went to work worked fine......started it to go home....and nothing.
Checked the AMP fuse----fine, replaced it anyway, pulled the whole **** out of the hole....and pulled out the DB2 cable off for few min......and ...NOTHING!
What the hell ?? ? ..Radio has power, changes stations, shows NO CD Changer, .....at least before it was a fuse now im lost!!!!
How often does this happen to the W220??
I'm going to tell you the same thing I said in your first post. Go get your firmware updated. Don't ask me why but some how it works. What version (release date) nav disc are you using?
Old 10-29-2008, 10:27 PM
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Kenstudios is right. You need a COMAND firmware update (which is different from a nav software update). See your dealer.
Old 10-30-2008, 12:16 AM
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Any AMG Thats Around..
You stated that the command has power... but no audio?

If so then it is 90% a problem in the D2B Ring.. If one of the components are having an issue, it will break the "loop" and you will loose audio and the other components after that one with the issue...

So for instance... if you have a phone kit in the console that is having a communication problem.... it would knock out the CD Changer and also disrupt the audio coming from the amp...

Before we had a SDS we would pull out the CD Changer first to make sure no water got into the lower well where the CD Changer sits.. (a few times the back of the changer where the plug was as one time wet and corroded)... If all looks good then its usually the phone kit.. So we would loop out the phone kit and all would return to normal....

Think of it like the old christmas light, where one would go out and nothing would work!

Just from experience....
Old 10-30-2008, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Skylaw
Kenstudios is right. You need a COMAND firmware update (which is different from a nav software update). See your dealer.
i dont think a firmwear update will work... Why would you need an update for your radio to keep working? It should just work, unless there is a problem...

When they update the wear, they are "restarting" the ring... SO sometimes you get lucky and all is well.. but if one of your D2B parts is shot it might work for a day or two or not at all....

J
Old 10-30-2008, 12:21 AM
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Ok, to me it looks like the D2B ring as the source of the problem. But, just for curiosity's sake, if the fuse was blown in the first place and you replaced it, did you replace it with the same value? Or did you use one with a higher value in order to "prevent" it from blowing? If so, it may be the case, that now a circuit inside of the system is damaged. Is it possible, that this happens, although the fuse was replaced with the proper one?

Last edited by Dino I; 10-30-2008 at 12:24 AM.
Old 10-30-2008, 09:13 AM
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Tunetime, I have to agree that it could be a break in the fiber optic ring, probably at a connector. The O.P. can find the locations of his components easily by reference to the phone bulletin for his car, at http://home.earthlink.net/~phdwebsit..._bulletins.htm and check the connection to each one; I'd try that before removing the COMAND to check the connections on the back.

And of course, a failed component in the ring could cause the problem.

However, I experienced a problem similar to his with my '00 - it did fine for some time. However, it began going out, and required a full shutdown of the car to reinitialize the bus and get it going again. A firmware update fixed it. It is possible that his firmware has been corrupted.

I would try the connections first; it's free.
Old 10-30-2008, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by TuneTime
You stated that the command has power... but no audio?

If so then it is 90% a problem in the D2B Ring.. If one of the components are having an issue, it will break the "loop" and you will loose audio and the other components after that one with the issue...

So for instance... if you have a phone kit in the console that is having a communication problem.... it would knock out the CD Changer and also disrupt the audio coming from the amp...

Before we had a SDS we would pull out the CD Changer first to make sure no water got into the lower well where the CD Changer sits.. (a few times the back of the changer where the plug was as one time wet and corroded)... If all looks good then its usually the phone kit.. So we would loop out the phone kit and all would return to normal....

Think of it like the old christmas light, where one would go out and nothing would work!

Just from experience....
Ok, last time this happend I did 3 things.
Pull the whole thing out, and unplug the DB2 cable
Replace the fuse which was loose
And unpluged the negative batt cable for a min.

Since I did 2 out of the 3...yesterday I decided to unplug the negative cable off the battery.....1 min goes by and I reconnect...and Wholllla!!!!!!!!-----RADIO WORKS!!
So I reset the errors in the display----and its all fine now?!?
What I also noticed that my Soft Close started to work again on the drivers side.....but this morning its stopped working again?? But the radio still works.
For some strange reason....Im going to have to agree with u, I always had a feeling that the phone cradle has something to do with this.....how can i bypass that like u mentioned....I would also love to get rid of the whole set up......if possible....
As of right now ---it looks like the next time that happens, all Im going to have to do is unplug the neg batt cable, and all good!!!
Old 10-30-2008, 10:34 AM
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'00 S-500, E-430S, '88 Mustang
To everyone else who commented ------Thank You!
I felt like a wiz kid in the W210 forum, but I just purchased this W220 '00,
and again I feel lost amongst the crowd......I guess we learn from each other and our past experience, so its important to listen and try everything, appreciate all comments. Thanx
Old 10-30-2008, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by E43 S
Ok, last time this happend I did 3 things.
Pull the whole thing out, and unplug the DB2 cable
Replace the fuse which was loose
And unpluged the negative batt cable for a min.

Since I did 2 out of the 3...yesterday I decided to unplug the negative cable off the battery.....1 min goes by and I reconnect...and Wholllla!!!!!!!!-----RADIO WORKS!!
So I reset the errors in the display----and its all fine now?!?
What I also noticed that my Soft Close started to work again on the drivers side.....but this morning its stopped working again?? But the radio still works.
For some strange reason....Im going to have to agree with u, I always had a feeling that the phone cradle has something to do with this.....how can i bypass that like u mentioned....I would also love to get rid of the whole set up......if possible....
As of right now ---it looks like the next time that happens, all Im going to have to do is unplug the neg batt cable, and all good!!!
your soft close pump is dying just buy a used one on ebay and replace it.
Old 10-30-2008, 10:47 AM
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'00 S-500, E-430S, '88 Mustang
Originally Posted by TuneTime
i dont think a firmwear update will work... Why would you need an update for your radio to keep working? It should just work, unless there is a problem...

When they update the wear, they are "restarting" the ring... SO sometimes you get lucky and all is well.. but if one of your D2B parts is shot it might work for a day or two or not at all....

J
TuneTime::
Can u guys take care of this at your shop??
I read the link u attached, and on page 10....it says to run Star Diagnosis and check for errors. I think I might have some errors there....... that cause the radio to go off, the warning matches what happend to my radio"" NOTICE!
DO NOT alter the configuration in step G4 to match the vehicle configuration. Failure to have the
configuration set as specified in the above table will result in erroneous system operation and/or
intermittent failure of some or all components.
6. Check the DTC memory of all installed components and the head unit. Any present DTC(s) should be
investigated and the source identified. The source of the DTC(s) should be corrected and DTC memory
cleared.
Note: Powering up the newly installed system prior to the above described version coding, will set D2B
ring configuration errors. These errors may be ignored during the initial DTC check. If, after clearing the
DTC(s), they return in the next step, a configuration error is present and must be located and corrected.
7. Confirm that no new DTC(s) have been set in the D2B system group.
Old 10-30-2008, 10:50 AM
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'00 S-500, E-430S, '88 Mustang
Originally Posted by S500 Man
your soft close pump is dying just buy a used one on ebay and replace it.
Oh ....is that why I hear ...HISSSSSSING noise for about 10 seconds when it does work after the door is closed?

How much is a used pump, and labor?? and is that something I can do, or MB only?
Old 10-30-2008, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by E43 S
Oh ....is that why I hear ...HISSSSSSING noise for about 10 seconds when it does work after the door is closed?

How much is a used pump, and labor?? and is that something I can do, or MB only?
If you hear a hissing sound, you may have a leak. Unfortunately, you don't specify on where you here it. If it is coming from the area of the back rear passenger - that's where the pump sits - it may be the pump. If it is coming from the driver's door area, you may have a leak in the line to that door. But if it is the pump, normally you would experience all soft close functions to terminate after one or two attempts, due to a safety function.

By pulling the fuse (or disconnecting the battery) you reset the system and it will work for some time (until the next error pops up, that is). That is why it is working after your battery disconnection (or not any more right know).

Last edited by Dino I; 10-30-2008 at 11:56 AM.
Old 10-30-2008, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dino I
If you hear a hissing sound, you may have a leak. Unfortunately, you don't specify on where you here it. If it is coming from the area of the back rear passenger - that's where the pump sits - it may be the pump. If it is coming from the driver's door area, you may have a leak in the line to that door. But if it is the pump, normally you would experience all soft close functions to terminate after one or two attempts, due to a safety function.

By pulling the fuse (or disconnecting the battery) you reset the system and it will work for some time (until the next error pops up, that is). That is why it is working after your battery disconnection (or not any more right know).
yea that makes sense----
Its coming from the drivers door......then it stops hissing.....I guess i have a leak, rather then a bad pump---not a big problem thou...could live with out it.

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