hey guys sorry for the noob question but I searched the w220 forums but there seems there is not a write up on how to do an oil change. I am being overly cautious about doing this on my own so any information would be great.


Thanks in advanced,

Alex

 

An oil change could not be any simpler than on one of these vehicles because MB moved the oil filter to the front of the engine (at least on my 2000 S500). To drop the oil you will need to first remove the lower underbody cover to access the oil drain plug, or get yourself a vacuum type system that pulls the oil out through a tube you insert down the dip stick tube into the oil pan. I believe Performance Products has a unit for about $100. I got one from from Northern Tool for under $50. Here is the page to Northern Tool where their assortment of units is located.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...970_106+773201

I found the vacuum method easy, but time consuming. The best part is that I did not have to get under the car for anything. Anyone else try Oiil changes using the vacuum method in place of removing the drain plug.

One other thing I recommend is that you use Synthetic Oil. Cost more, but will protect your engine from wear a lot better than the regular stuff and lasts longer too. I go about 8,000 between oil changes without worry.

 

Alex, very easy:

Drain method:

1. Drive car to heat up oil, get fleece filter and drain plug washer at dealer or parts source of your choosing. Get a B-Style canister oil filter wrench at autozone ($4)
2. Lift car, making an effort to get the car at least fairly level. Secure on jackstands or ramps
3. Remove under panel using 8mm socket
4. Moving back to the topside, place filter wrench on filter canister, and loosen but do not remove.
5. Hop underneath, loosen drain plug, and allow oil to drain completely. You may need to lift the rear of the car, on the side opposite the drain plug to get all the oil out.

6. After oil has drained, clean drain plug and install new washer on plug. Reinstall drain plug and tighten (I go by feel and have never had a leak, but i'm sure someone has torque specs. Do not go crazy here).

7. Jump back up top, completely loosen the filter canister, and remove from engine housing. Pull downward on filter to remove. Use small screwdriver or pick to remove the old o-rings on the filter. There are 4.

8. Clean filter canister housing. Use some fresh oil, and lubricate new O-rings before reinstalling. There will be one left over in the package (comes with filter).

9. Lube ends of the inner hole of the oil filter and slide onto housing. There are two black marks on the filter. Keep pushing the filter into the housing until you can only see one black mark above the housing. It takes some effort, but it tends to "click" into place.

10. Pour the 8.25 quarts into the engine through the oil filter hole (no funnel needed and much faster). Reinstall filter and tighten using filter wrench.

11. Start engine briefly and check for leaks. If none found, replace underbody panels, and lower vehicle.

12. If you have a dipstick, check the fluid level and add accordingly. If you only have the instrument cluster method, check that regularly for about a week to make sure the level is ok.

Done. This sounds FAR FAR more difficult than it actually is. Everything is easy to access and after you've done it once, you'll realize how simple it is.

For the oil sucking method:

1. warm engine and get new filter/oring/wrench
2. Get a mityvac or similar suction device
3. insert tube into dipstick hole, create vacuum and suck oil until you've gotten 8.5q out.
4. Oil filter stuff is same as above.
5. Add new oil and do the same as above.

If you have any questions, let us know.

 

How about filling the new oil filter with some oil so the engine is not starving for oil on first start, while oil is going through the fleece oil filter?

 

The step by step process by Oliverk is right on. The filter is not a canister that can be filled, but is a cartridge that is inserted into the filter compartment. Don't bother filling the filter compartment with oil either. The engine will take care of that upon startup. There is no real threat to the engine for the few seconds it will take it to flood on it's own. Double check the level after your first start though.

 

there will still be plenty of oil on the bearings, so no worries there, plus you can't really fill the filter unless you dunk it in a tub of oil.

I wouldn't worry about it.

 

So Bosch or K&N oil filter... anyone have a preference?

 

factory fleece. There is no reason for anything else.

 

I buy my filters from autohausaz dot com in bulk if the order is over $50 shipping is free - I exclusively use the evacuation method and I refill via the oil filter housing

 

I use vacuum evacuation with great success. Works best if the oil is a bit warm (thinner), but not too hot. My extractor is pretty heavy-duty, but some lower cost ones will deform with the heat of the oil. It's not faster than the drain process, but when you consider the time to get the car elevated, level, and the belly pans removed to gain access, I think it's probably quicker.

I'd suggest a different order from OliverK. I remove the oil filter first. It may not matter much on an W220, but on my old W140, the filter retained a fair amount of oil which meant my drain effort didn't get it all, and when I changed the filter after extracting what I thought was all the oil, I dumped a bunch of dirty oil right down into the crankcase to be mixed with all the new clean oil when added.

If you choose to "do it on your back", the torque rating for the drain plug is 30NM (22ft lbs). Be sure to change the washer as Oliver noted.

I like the fill through the filter housing - lot bigger hole to hit than the filler cap.

Also a tidbit of info - on the S430, S500, S55, the difference between the lowest mark (just above the bulb) on the dipstick and Full is 2.1 quarts. The relationship is linear, so if the oil hit's midway on the stick, then you need about 1 more quart.

And as noted - DO NOT OVERFILL. Even a little extra oil is a bad thing.

 

Not a bad suggestion. In reality, I do the filter stuff while the oil drains completely.

 

WOW! I feel much much better after all the responses on here. I hope to contribute as much as you guys have! Thank you!!

 

I just changed my oil last night. First thing I did was open the cap on the filter and lift it slightly. I heard the distinct sound of oil draining back into the pan.

On my old W140, I never heard that noise, even when I drained the oil first (by dipstick evacuation), but I think that's because of the location of the filter (at the rear of the motor by the firewall), and the fact that the filter is a different design - no center pole.

But it does make a difference - there is oil trapped in the filter housing.

OliverK - didn't mean to suggest you were doing it wrong. Hope I didn't come off that way.

Regards

 

Does anyone have a perference on what kind of pump to purchase?

Is there a name brand of the factory filters so I am able to buy online in bulk?

 

The mityvac, available on amazon, seems to be very popular.

www.parts.com will get you an oem filter for aftermarket prices and you can order as many as you need.

 

Oliverk you are AWESOME. THANK YOU

 

how many quarts of oil does a w220 take?

 

how many quarts of oil does a w220 take?

 

between 8.5 and 9 usually.