Valentine one hardwire install on my S55 W220
Honestly I was always a bit bored with these - they are nice, but seldom did I really get a good hit. So I'd always stop using one, and try again later. Well, now finally I bought a Valentine one - I figured why not. It does not have the same GPS filtering system of the 9500's, but it does have those arrows and tells you how many signals, etc - so more information seems good.
But anyway - I wanted to post this in order to give some people who may consider doing a hardwire install in their W220 some possible advice. I searched the forum when I was doing it, and there are a few threads on doing it, but more information is always better.
Some things to be aware of that may not be common knowledge:
I had the Escort direct wire/ hardwire before, and thought I would use that connection with the Valentine one. I knew going in that the little control unit with the blinking light and mute would not function on the V1, so I was surprised at what I found. The power, being RJ11, does work properly and it did indeed power it on. But what it did not do was really give adequate compliance with the V1 - and thus I could not use the mute button on the actual V1, nor could I use the knob to change modes. (Like All Bogeys, Logic, etc.)
So having experienced this, I decided to forgo using the previous Escort hardwire and actually fully doing the hardwire with the wires that came with the V1.
In short, here is what I did:
1.) The included V1 8 foot cord should be enough, I started it on the left of the rear view mirror. From research, it seems like a high position is the best for these - and in the area next to the rvm seems to be the most recommended.
2.) Now comes the business of routing the wire to where you want to get power from. I decided to use the cigarette lighter. I did not have to actually dissemble anything in the car aside from the ash tray. I ran the wire down the weather strip along the left side of the driver's A pillar, and down next to the hood lever. From there, I ran the wire above the driver's pedal area, and into the bottom of the ash tray. (There are various opening in the plastics and carpets that allow a wire to be hidden)
3.) When the wire was reached, I could now connect it to the other end of the unit that connects with the power and comes with the V1, the direct wire power adapter as it is called. In the W220, 2001 S55 - I got power from the black/grey thick wire going into the ash tray. I used the quick connector that came with the V1. Getting the ash tray open is fairly easy, there are T15 screws on the left and right side, and it pops right out.
4.) The important thing that tripped me up at first was the ground connection. The brown cable going into the ash tray is the ground, and I had put the ground wire from the V1 unit next to a screw. I was not getting power. Ultimately I had to splice the brown wire (ground) with the ground cable of the V1 unit that had the 12v+ cable. That way, I got power easily.
I know this sounds complicated - but it's a lot easier than it seems. tapping into the power isn't hard as long a you use the proper tools and go into the wire with the quick connector. It's almost plug and play - aside from the ground cable which may need a little exposed wiring before you can connect them.
Next up I am thinking of installing the concealed display, all I have to do now is connect the RJ11 from that into behind the ash tray as well in the V1 provided unit, and just place it somewhere. I'm thinking the ash tray may be good to place it, since it closes and will be stealth.
Here are some pictures as well, if anyone has any questions feel free to post here or PM me and I can help clarify anything that I may know about this particular install on the W220 ashtray.
Last edited by rondocap; Feb 21, 2011 at 01:22 AM. Reason: a
I've used this method for my past and current cars, ML430, M3, E55, X5 and 911. This way, there's minimal wire (read: work) that you have to do.
I could not get it to fit in the headrest, but what do you guys think of this? I'm mostly concerned about thieves looking in, would they be able to tell what this is?
That's a long run of wire from the front to the rear -- or did you use a different power source to put it to the rear?
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I did not wire it yet back there, I'm seeing if I like it - if so I may just use a source close to the back. I need to mount the concealed display in the front so I may have to source it from the front regardless.
I tried to fit it in the headrest, but there are too many plastics in it and it's small - I'd have to gut it and really mod it to make it fit.
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You can conceptually use a grey BMW dome like in the link above. I'm sure it will be very close in the MB grey.
So I finally decided to just mount it on the passenger visor with the V1 visor clip, and put the concealed display in the ash tray. It works out well, I get good signal because it's high in the windshield and not blocked. I have to take it out of the car overnight as I don't want it stolen, but it's OK. I will keep it like this now, but I really wanted a completely hidden look so I don't have to take it out of the car. The CD can stay in the ash tray as it closes.
To compensate, you can install a laser interceptor or similar laser system, that way you will be 100% aware. The V1 laser detection is kind of not all that useful anyway, since if you get hit with laser, unless you have a laser system, it's too late.
I may pick up another headrest cheaply on ebay and try my luck molding it properly, and then attach it.
At least for now it is fairly hidden, and I made sure it was level.
Heh, I wish V1 made a unit that you could mount remotely inside the engine bay area like the 9500ci!
Last edited by rondocap; Feb 28, 2011 at 03:40 PM. Reason: a








