ABC pulsation damper and Filter DIY repair
ABC fluid looks like black ****, it's gonna be changed, likely in conjunction with several valve block cleanings.
Sounds like you need a pump and rear strut and possibly other parts like a Valve block . Just those parts can cost more than the coil over conversion.


It is possible to repair much of the system, but you must understand the system first.
Randomly throwing parts at an ABC system hoping to fix a problem is a very expensive losing game...
I suggest starting by investing some time and effort here.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...ml#post4298889
The rough ride was caused by the damper.
After the change, the car handles like brand new. So firm and responsive. The rough ride is completely gone.
It was very difficult to do it on jack stands so I found myself a lift and had it off in 2 minutes.
YOU DO NOT NEED TO BLEED/RELIEVE PRESSURE IN THE LINES GOING TO THE STRUTS!
Let the car sit for about 10 minutes to make sure all pressure is out, lift it and undo the old pulsation damper with a 24mm wrench while holding the valve body with an adjustable wrench.
When you install the new damper, YOU MUST LEAVE the plastic shimmy tube inside, do not discard!
When done, verify fluid level in ABC tank and start the car. Perform the rodeo or about 5 minutes worth of up/down exerciser. Verify there are few to no bubbles on the ABC dipstick and you're good to go!
Here's the culprit:

and the new damper:

And just so that I understand, I will not have to bleed the system if I adhere to the following guidelines:
1. Raise car up until suspension is at max height;
2. Jack vehicle up and put all 4 corners on stands so that each wheel is off the ground;
3. Wait for 15-20 minutes for pressure to equalize;
4. Remove old damper and install new one quickly to minimize dirt and/or air getting into the system;
5. Lower vehicle and check ABC fluid level, top as necessary;
6. Raise and lower the car about 20 times;
7. Finished?
And just so that I understand, I will not have to bleed the system if I adhere to the following guidelines:
1. Raise car up until suspension is at max height;
2. Jack vehicle up and put all 4 corners on stands so that each wheel is off the ground;
3. Wait for 15-20 minutes for pressure to equalize;
4. Remove old damper and install new one quickly to minimize dirt and/or air getting into the system;
5. Lower vehicle and check ABC fluid level, top as necessary;
6. Raise and lower the car about 20 times;
7. Finished?
But I did jack up only front 2 wheels only. It worked out well.
Sun
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
And just so that I understand, I will not have to bleed the system if I adhere to the following guidelines:
1. Raise car up until suspension is at max height;
2. Jack vehicle up and put all 4 corners on stands so that each wheel is off the ground;
3. Wait for 15-20 minutes for pressure to equalize;
4. Remove old damper and install new one quickly to minimize dirt and/or air getting into the system;
5. Lower vehicle and check ABC fluid level, top as necessary;
6. Raise and lower the car about 20 times;
7. Finished?
The part number is right for the S55, you may want to confirm for an S65 before ordering.
all s class and cl class abc components are the same for all models , s55 s600 s65 cl500 cl55 cl600 cl65
1. Raise car up until suspension is at max height;
2. Jack vehicle up and put all 4 corners on stands so that each wheel is off the ground;
3. Wait for 15-20 minutes for pressure to equalize;
4. Remove old damper and install new one quickly to minimize dirt and/or air getting into the system;
5. Lower vehicle and check ABC fluid level, top as necessary;
6. Raise and lower the car about 20 times;
7. Finished?
I have the car on jackstands and what appears to be the pulsation damper is located near the passenger wheel well.
I was under the impression that it was driver side... at least that's where the loudest humming noise comes from.
Can't get the damn thing off though. I've braced the assembly so it won't move on its rubber mount, but no matter how hard I try, the actual damper itself won't budge.
Going to have to rethink this one.
Can't get the damn thing off though. I've braced the assembly so it won't move on its rubber mount, but no matter how hard I try, the actual damper itself won't budge.
Going to have to rethink this one.[/QUOTE
I used a big pipe wrench to hold the house and a 24 key on the damper, just a very little oil came out when I removed changed it.
Be careful with the little plastic part on the damper when you refitting it.
And I think it's a good thing to change the oil at the same time.
By the way, that little white plastic cylinder that sits inside the threaded portion of the new damper; does that stay with the unit when getting installed or is it removed?
Last edited by amstel78; Feb 15, 2017 at 10:04 AM.
By the way, that little white plastic cylinder that sits inside the threaded portion of the new damper; does that stay with the unit when getting installed or is it removed?
And be careful when you install it.
You will see that the white plastic part is there on your old damper.
By the way, that little white plastic cylinder that sits inside the threaded portion of the new damper; does that stay with the unit when getting installed or is it removed?
I just raised the car to maximum height and mesurised the distance between the small rubber pads and the ground and then I made wooden pieces to put under the car in all corners and lowered it so it was standing on the wooden pieces.
I hade the car on a lift so I could stand under it when I did the job.
You can not remove or change oil without have the car standing on something so it is not depending on the hydraulic shock absorbers.
What a difference that made however; the car is quiet inside now with no loud humming.








