Ongoing Maintenance and Repair for a 2003 S600.
08-16-2013, 09:49 AM
#176
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This post is compiled base on many forum members' experience and contribution under this topic: Welwynnick, Drewk88, Eric242340...
The purpose is to help ABC owner to increase the ABC reliability and reduce the owning cost. You could find the ABC is never problematic if you follow the maintenance suggestions.
As usual, all the suggestions are base on my experiment and knowledge, hence not offical, please use them with your own judgement.
There are many occasions that ABC failed and cost the owner a lot to fix. Even worse, some of the problems happen again and again.
After reviewed and researched some cases it come to a conclusion that most of the ABC issues are preventable if we do regular maintenance.
That said, to keep ABC in a good shape and keep ABC cost reasonable, you have to do regular maintenance.
Why, we do regular maintenance on engine, transmission, transfer case, differential, etc... Why not ABC ?
E.g. if you leave the fluid in transmission as 'sealed for life', you trany won't last. ABC won't either.
If you can DIY, that's good. If not, insist your mechanic or your dealer to do the ABC regular maintenance for you.
Ok, stuff you need to take care:
1, Visual check ABC components, lines/hoses and fluid level during every A/B maintenance. Fix leaking or other issue promptly.
2, Regular fluid and filter replace: ABC is a hydraulic system which contain 4 liters of Petosin chf 11S.
- Please replace the fluid/filter on a regular basis, let's say every 30kMiles/50kKm.
- The ABC fluid has its life span just like engine oil, transmission fluid, etc...
- As the fluid degraded/contaminated the internal parts in ABC (pump, valve body, strut...) will rust, accumulate deposit or get clogged
- Water contamination is a common but serious problem in Hydraulic industry. It is a critical and regular process to maintain hydraulic fluid in those heavy equipment.
- A simple way is to syphon/empty the ABC reservior then fill with new fluid and replace the filter. Within a week or two adjust height often for better circulation. Then syphon/empty then refill the reservior 2nd time. This way most of the fluid is refreshed.
- There will be some old fluid left in the hoses and struts, but it is good enough if you don't have any sympton.
- If you have lowered corner issue, you may need a rodeo to flush the system, again rodeo/flush is not necessary for regular fluid replacement.
- Be sure to change the ABC filter now if you still have the original ABC filter. The original filter is 10 micros and the new filter is 3 micros.
- Here I documented my fluid/filter replace, not simple version, but have some information could be referenced:
https://mbworld.org/forums/5158952-post74.html
3, ABC lines/hoses replace. There are rubber hydraulic hoses in the ABC system. Hoses need to be replace when it is weeping oil, otherwise it will exploded finally.
- Hydraulic hoses are made from rubber which will deteriorate for sure. Especially true for ABC which is constantly running under heat and pressure.
- There is no rubber hose build for life.
- Check and replace hydraulic hoses in the Hyrdaulic industry is a common practice. Leave the hoses unattended will lead to hose rupture and disaster.
- Check or have your mechanic to inspect every ABC lines/hoses during the A/B maintenance. Replace the line/hose which is wet or weeping.
- For DIYer we found a practical and cheaper way to replace hydraulic lines/hoses. Follow hydraulic industry regular process, we made our own hoses, which is cheaper. And we modify the line/hose and use standard hydrualic hose compression fitting to make the hose replace much easier, more like a plumber. Please see the process documented:
https://mbworld.org/forums/5659409-post162.html
Above is the regular maintenance you need to follow. Below are more information to help you handle ABC related issues.
4, ABC action list. For each ABC owner please familiar yourself with the list and have it handy. It will help you diagnose and react correctly in case you have ABC issue:
https://mbworld.org/forums/5376771-post100.html
5, For lowered corner issue: Most of the time it is the Valve Block internal leaking, replace o-ring is the first and cheap way to fix:
https://mbworld.org/forums/5184137-post81.html
All in all, ABC is a great system combined with sensors, computer and hydraulic system which provide a superb ride quality. There is no fatal design and build issue as many guessed in the system and the ABC is continued to be used as the core of the MBC(Magic Body Control).
I also understand there are unpleasant experience related to ABC. It is caused by one lost link in the chain: regular maintenance. There is no clear maintenance schedule for ABC and the dealer is lack of knowledge of maintaining hydraulic system too, as Hydraulic is another industry.
There are so many different kind of hydraulic systems in heavy equipment/vehicles. They are reliable, dependable and reasonable in owning cost because they are well maintained. ABC should be one of them.
Again, don't neglact the ABC. It is our, owners', resposibility making sure regular/preventitive maintenance is done. Not just replace fluid when it acts up, at that time it is already too late. Check hydraulic lines/hoses regularly and replace any in question. In the Hydraulic industry everyone does this, why not for ABC. Do not wait for the hose to explode, there is risk when you are driving although the shutoff valve will protect the system and keep the strut height. As a concequence, the system is open and you lost fluid which lead to pump failure. $200 hose triger a $2000 pump failure. When the pump failed it may pump metal into your system messing up everything... Do not let this happen.
All in all, I hope the information gathered here could bring attention to you that regular maintenance is a must for ABC, plus to clarify any confusion you want to know about this unique suspension system.
Thanks.
Howard
The purpose is to help ABC owner to increase the ABC reliability and reduce the owning cost. You could find the ABC is never problematic if you follow the maintenance suggestions.
As usual, all the suggestions are base on my experiment and knowledge, hence not offical, please use them with your own judgement.
There are many occasions that ABC failed and cost the owner a lot to fix. Even worse, some of the problems happen again and again.
After reviewed and researched some cases it come to a conclusion that most of the ABC issues are preventable if we do regular maintenance.
That said, to keep ABC in a good shape and keep ABC cost reasonable, you have to do regular maintenance.
Why, we do regular maintenance on engine, transmission, transfer case, differential, etc... Why not ABC ?
E.g. if you leave the fluid in transmission as 'sealed for life', you trany won't last. ABC won't either.
If you can DIY, that's good. If not, insist your mechanic or your dealer to do the ABC regular maintenance for you.
Ok, stuff you need to take care:
1, Visual check ABC components, lines/hoses and fluid level during every A/B maintenance. Fix leaking or other issue promptly.
2, Regular fluid and filter replace: ABC is a hydraulic system which contain 4 liters of Petosin chf 11S.
- Please replace the fluid/filter on a regular basis, let's say every 30kMiles/50kKm.
- The ABC fluid has its life span just like engine oil, transmission fluid, etc...
- As the fluid degraded/contaminated the internal parts in ABC (pump, valve body, strut...) will rust, accumulate deposit or get clogged
- Water contamination is a common but serious problem in Hydraulic industry. It is a critical and regular process to maintain hydraulic fluid in those heavy equipment.
- A simple way is to syphon/empty the ABC reservior then fill with new fluid and replace the filter. Within a week or two adjust height often for better circulation. Then syphon/empty then refill the reservior 2nd time. This way most of the fluid is refreshed.
- There will be some old fluid left in the hoses and struts, but it is good enough if you don't have any sympton.
- If you have lowered corner issue, you may need a rodeo to flush the system, again rodeo/flush is not necessary for regular fluid replacement.
- Be sure to change the ABC filter now if you still have the original ABC filter. The original filter is 10 micros and the new filter is 3 micros.
- Here I documented my fluid/filter replace, not simple version, but have some information could be referenced:
https://mbworld.org/forums/5158952-post74.html
3, ABC lines/hoses replace. There are rubber hydraulic hoses in the ABC system. Hoses need to be replace when it is weeping oil, otherwise it will exploded finally.
- Hydraulic hoses are made from rubber which will deteriorate for sure. Especially true for ABC which is constantly running under heat and pressure.
- There is no rubber hose build for life.
- Check and replace hydraulic hoses in the Hyrdaulic industry is a common practice. Leave the hoses unattended will lead to hose rupture and disaster.
- Check or have your mechanic to inspect every ABC lines/hoses during the A/B maintenance. Replace the line/hose which is wet or weeping.
- For DIYer we found a practical and cheaper way to replace hydraulic lines/hoses. Follow hydraulic industry regular process, we made our own hoses, which is cheaper. And we modify the line/hose and use standard hydrualic hose compression fitting to make the hose replace much easier, more like a plumber. Please see the process documented:
https://mbworld.org/forums/5659409-post162.html
Above is the regular maintenance you need to follow. Below are more information to help you handle ABC related issues.
4, ABC action list. For each ABC owner please familiar yourself with the list and have it handy. It will help you diagnose and react correctly in case you have ABC issue:
https://mbworld.org/forums/5376771-post100.html
5, For lowered corner issue: Most of the time it is the Valve Block internal leaking, replace o-ring is the first and cheap way to fix:
https://mbworld.org/forums/5184137-post81.html
All in all, ABC is a great system combined with sensors, computer and hydraulic system which provide a superb ride quality. There is no fatal design and build issue as many guessed in the system and the ABC is continued to be used as the core of the MBC(Magic Body Control).
I also understand there are unpleasant experience related to ABC. It is caused by one lost link in the chain: regular maintenance. There is no clear maintenance schedule for ABC and the dealer is lack of knowledge of maintaining hydraulic system too, as Hydraulic is another industry.
There are so many different kind of hydraulic systems in heavy equipment/vehicles. They are reliable, dependable and reasonable in owning cost because they are well maintained. ABC should be one of them.
Again, don't neglact the ABC. It is our, owners', resposibility making sure regular/preventitive maintenance is done. Not just replace fluid when it acts up, at that time it is already too late. Check hydraulic lines/hoses regularly and replace any in question. In the Hydraulic industry everyone does this, why not for ABC. Do not wait for the hose to explode, there is risk when you are driving although the shutoff valve will protect the system and keep the strut height. As a concequence, the system is open and you lost fluid which lead to pump failure. $200 hose triger a $2000 pump failure. When the pump failed it may pump metal into your system messing up everything... Do not let this happen.
All in all, I hope the information gathered here could bring attention to you that regular maintenance is a must for ABC, plus to clarify any confusion you want to know about this unique suspension system.
Thanks.
Howard
I did not realize the hydraulic system was vented to the atmosphere.
08-16-2013, 03:14 PM
#178
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MB 2003 S600. Volvo 2003 XC70.
Yes, V12TT are same in S and CL 2003-2006.
Yes, all the ABC works I mentioned apply to the ABC equipted in other models, 2003-2006.
All the best.
Howard
08-16-2013, 07:03 PM
#179
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M109R
Thanks
08-24-2013, 09:31 AM
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2002 S430
Hello Howard,
referring to your post #151 in this thread, I want to change the auxiliary pump.
Removed the wipers, removed the plastic rivets and got stuck with the weather trim. It just does not want to separate from the glass. It moves easily a bit lengthwise along the lower edge of the windshield, but resists my efforts to pull/push it off.
What do I miss?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
George
referring to your post #151 in this thread, I want to change the auxiliary pump.
Removed the wipers, removed the plastic rivets and got stuck with the weather trim. It just does not want to separate from the glass. It moves easily a bit lengthwise along the lower edge of the windshield, but resists my efforts to pull/push it off.
What do I miss?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
George
08-24-2013, 09:57 PM
#181
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MB 2003 S600. Volvo 2003 XC70.
Hello Howard,
referring to your post #151 in this thread, I want to change the auxiliary pump.
Removed the wipers, removed the plastic rivets and got stuck with the weather trim. It just does not want to separate from the glass. It moves easily a bit lengthwise along the lower edge of the windshield, but resists my efforts to pull/push it off.
What do I miss?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
George
referring to your post #151 in this thread, I want to change the auxiliary pump.
Removed the wipers, removed the plastic rivets and got stuck with the weather trim. It just does not want to separate from the glass. It moves easily a bit lengthwise along the lower edge of the windshield, but resists my efforts to pull/push it off.
What do I miss?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
George
Push the weather trim upward along the glass to release.
Thanks.
Howard
08-25-2013, 07:19 AM
#183
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MB 2003 S600. Volvo 2003 XC70.
I don't have education background related to mechanic. But I distroyed and reassembled toy cars in my childhood which planted seeds in my mind.
I bought my first car, Volvo XC70, in 2007 which I still have. I started from zero mechanic ability and played around on the volvo. I don't even have a wrench during my first attempting to change the wheel.
I'm a good learner though, so I tried to find a good shop and learn from them. I wanted to learn during they repair my car but they are not interested of teaching at all. So after 3 visits I never went back to shops for repair.
The very first and only book I purchased is Haynes for the Volvo. If you ask me from where I gained most of my mechanic knowledge I'd say from the forums. There are so many nice people and excellent write-ups which became my endless treasure chest. I seldom ask questions since most of the problems were already documented.
Last year I bought my 2nd car, this S600 which made my Benz dream come true. I never drove a Mercedes before I test drove this one. I didn't even know where the parking brake is, from there I started my MB journey. Fortunately I came across the most famous MB forums MBWorld and BenzWorld from where so many members helped me from buying, learning to fixing issues. I am not able to explain how important the contributions from peoples are, nor I can thanks enough to all the contributors. The forums are just amazing that so many experienced owner stand behind me making my Mercedes ownership so enjoyable.
And for the tools you asked before, I believe to do comprehesive maintenance and repair, MB DAS/EPC/WIS are software you finally need. Hardware wise, Start C3 or C4 in the market is pretty good from which many forums members have successful experience.
Thanks.
Howard
Last edited by haoz129; 08-25-2013 at 07:22 AM.
08-25-2013, 06:59 PM
#184
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2002 S430
Thank you Howard,
I sucessfully completed the job.
Your comments to RoCL are exatly the everyday experience of hundreds if not thousands of forum members. (I may add, we save big bucks, too, on DIY).
Special thanks for your constibutions
George
I sucessfully completed the job.
Your comments to RoCL are exatly the everyday experience of hundreds if not thousands of forum members. (I may add, we save big bucks, too, on DIY).
Special thanks for your constibutions
George
08-27-2013, 09:29 AM
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M109R
Thanks Howard and George. I was hoping that might be the case as it seems a willingness to try is the primary driver of repair success stories. Not discounting tools of course. However, your responses help demystify the idea that a stealer or indi shop is the only place to go. Personally, I prefer to do the work myself. Not only do I save money, but I know it was done with care and new parts.
Cheers!
Cheers!
08-28-2013, 05:49 PM
#186
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MB 2003 S600. Volvo 2003 XC70.
Yes, to handle the car by ourselves is rewardable and enjoyable. At the very beginning we need spend time self-learning and researching. But after awhile, it save time and money. Most important, I find by maintaining the car by myself, I have more confidence when I driving.
It is not easy and some time challenging. But I like to take some challenge and gain more skills through the process. On the other hand those skills have been adapted into my works and creating even more value. It become part of my life.
All the best.
Howard
09-08-2013, 03:31 PM
#187
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MB 2003 S600. Volvo 2003 XC70.
R005 Driver side mirror heater open circuit
Did this last Feb in 2012, thought it was just a temp fix. But it last more than one and half years, still working properly, so I'd like to document the details.
Issue description:
Driver side mirror not heated and the passenger side works.
When rain it's hard to use the left side mirror.
Issue reported as a fault in Star scan:
- DCM-FL - Doorcontrol module front left
B1521-005 Exterior mirror adjustment and heating : The mirror heater has Short circuit or open circuit.
Cause:
The heating film in the mirror glass burnt/broke and cause circuit open.
Repair process:
Take the driver side mirror off the car.
Take the mirror glass off the mirror unit by disconnecting 3 connectors, see picture 1, back of the mirror glass.
Clean up all connectors and apply dielectric grease, see picture 2. Left side connector is for dimmer and right 2 connectors are for heating.
Clean up the burnt section of the heating film and solder to close the circuit. See picture 3 for the heating film, the burnt area is on left bottom corner, see the black square section in the middle of the thick silver line.
If it is possible clear fault memory and re-check DCM.
Result:
Mirror can be heated.
No code for DCM anymore.
As I have dielectric grease already which was used for replacing spark plug so no cost for this repair.
Half an hour is more than enough to do a neat job.
Issue description:
Driver side mirror not heated and the passenger side works.
When rain it's hard to use the left side mirror.
Issue reported as a fault in Star scan:
- DCM-FL - Doorcontrol module front left
B1521-005 Exterior mirror adjustment and heating : The mirror heater has Short circuit or open circuit.
Cause:
The heating film in the mirror glass burnt/broke and cause circuit open.
Repair process:
Take the driver side mirror off the car.
Take the mirror glass off the mirror unit by disconnecting 3 connectors, see picture 1, back of the mirror glass.
Clean up all connectors and apply dielectric grease, see picture 2. Left side connector is for dimmer and right 2 connectors are for heating.
Clean up the burnt section of the heating film and solder to close the circuit. See picture 3 for the heating film, the burnt area is on left bottom corner, see the black square section in the middle of the thick silver line.
If it is possible clear fault memory and re-check DCM.
Result:
Mirror can be heated.
No code for DCM anymore.
As I have dielectric grease already which was used for replacing spark plug so no cost for this repair.
Half an hour is more than enough to do a neat job.
Last edited by haoz129; 09-09-2013 at 09:00 PM.
09-08-2013, 04:48 PM
#188
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2009 E350 4M Avantgarde;mistress 2002 S600; wife 2014 C300 4M
Outstanding, Howard!
I was digging into my DCMs and SAMs with DAS a while ago, and had all kinds of history recorded.
Then it also said: "If no customer complaints, fault history can be erased".
Have you done that, and, how do you go about that?
I've only done "quick test & fault & history erase" so far.
thnx
I was digging into my DCMs and SAMs with DAS a while ago, and had all kinds of history recorded.
Then it also said: "If no customer complaints, fault history can be erased".
Have you done that, and, how do you go about that?
I've only done "quick test & fault & history erase" so far.
thnx
09-11-2013, 10:36 PM
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MB 2003 S600. Volvo 2003 XC70.
R016 Occasionally creaking grinding noise when turning wheel, bad front joints
Car had creaking, grinding sound occasionally when turning wheel in very low speed.
Also there was a minor clunk sound when going over certain (small) road joint. At very beginning I thought it's something loose under seat.
Above symptom started 3 month ago. And below is the original thread seeking opinions:
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...ing-wheel.html
After checking, found ball joint boot damaged in left front torque arm and outer tie rod. Guess they were hit by rock or other road debris.
By lifting left front wheel then grab the tire 3&9 o'clock, I can feel the play.
After replace above two parts issue fixed.
Check the old parts, I can see the ball joint rusted in the tie rod end, not that bad for the torque arm though.
See picture 4, there is a dent in the lip of the tie rod end, that is where the boot got pinched.
This is a straight forward process:
1, Block wheels and jack up left front;
2, Remove left front wheel;
3, Spray PB blaster to nuts on inner tie rod, outer tie rod and torque arm. Wait an hour or so to soak the rust.
4, Loose the lock nut on inner tie rod which lock the outer tie rod and count how much the nut turned;
5, Loose bolt holds the torque arm to frame;
6, Undo lock nuts for outer tie rod and torque arm;
7, Use tie rod splitter to release the ball joints from steering knuckle for outer tie rod and torque arm;
6, Remove outer tie rod from inner and count how many turns. Install new tie rod and tighten bolt to steering knuckler 50nm + 60 angle. Tighten lock nut on inner tie rod as well.
7, Replace torque arm. Tighten bolt to steering knuckle 50nm + 60 angle, hand tight bolt to frame.
8, Install wheel and lower the car, then drive car on ramps.
9, At normal driving height tighten torque arm bolt to frame, 80nm + 120 angle.
Parts:
Lemforder OEM outer tie rod end: $115
Lemforder OEM torque arm: $189
Time: 3 hrs
Also there was a minor clunk sound when going over certain (small) road joint. At very beginning I thought it's something loose under seat.
Above symptom started 3 month ago. And below is the original thread seeking opinions:
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...ing-wheel.html
After checking, found ball joint boot damaged in left front torque arm and outer tie rod. Guess they were hit by rock or other road debris.
By lifting left front wheel then grab the tire 3&9 o'clock, I can feel the play.
After replace above two parts issue fixed.
Check the old parts, I can see the ball joint rusted in the tie rod end, not that bad for the torque arm though.
See picture 4, there is a dent in the lip of the tie rod end, that is where the boot got pinched.
This is a straight forward process:
1, Block wheels and jack up left front;
2, Remove left front wheel;
3, Spray PB blaster to nuts on inner tie rod, outer tie rod and torque arm. Wait an hour or so to soak the rust.
4, Loose the lock nut on inner tie rod which lock the outer tie rod and count how much the nut turned;
5, Loose bolt holds the torque arm to frame;
6, Undo lock nuts for outer tie rod and torque arm;
7, Use tie rod splitter to release the ball joints from steering knuckle for outer tie rod and torque arm;
6, Remove outer tie rod from inner and count how many turns. Install new tie rod and tighten bolt to steering knuckler 50nm + 60 angle. Tighten lock nut on inner tie rod as well.
7, Replace torque arm. Tighten bolt to steering knuckle 50nm + 60 angle, hand tight bolt to frame.
8, Install wheel and lower the car, then drive car on ramps.
9, At normal driving height tighten torque arm bolt to frame, 80nm + 120 angle.
Parts:
Lemforder OEM outer tie rod end: $115
Lemforder OEM torque arm: $189
Time: 3 hrs
Last edited by haoz129; 09-13-2013 at 02:05 PM.
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Astro14 (03-15-2016)
09-13-2013, 01:40 AM
#192
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Cheers, Frank
09-13-2013, 02:34 PM
#193
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MB 2003 S600. Volvo 2003 XC70.
That's even more expensive, and higher tax you guys are paying compare to our 13% HST. Me feels better now,
Kidding aside, I love the products your people are producing. I'm lucky that I have chance to enjoy them,
All the best.
Howard
Last edited by haoz129; 09-13-2013 at 07:04 PM.
09-16-2013, 01:36 AM
#194
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09-19-2013, 08:26 PM
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MB 2003 S600. Volvo 2003 XC70.
M023 Front brake disks replace
Felt brake is not smooth and chattered during hard braking.
Checked rotors and find there were rust on the back.
See picture, metal rusted under the contacting surface and peeled off.
Never think the rotor can rust this way, must related to the holes as it is drilled disk. With so many holes it opens more space for water to attack.
Replaced both fronts.
Process is simple, and only thing worth mentioning is how to deal with the stubborn disks.
After caliper and rotor holding screw are off, I couldn't remove the disk.
The rust is like glue stuck the rotor on the hub.
No huge hammer wracking, no torch heating which could introduce damage. Just PB blast and wait, yes wait for an hour or so let the rust soaked and disintergrated.
Then a bit of pry behind the rotor will release the disk easily.
When I put rotors back I applied thin grease on mating surfaces and around the rotor to prevent future rust.
But keep grease away from braking surface and the bolt holes.
Torque for Caliper bolts: 115nm plus thread lock; Wheel lugs: 150nm;
I'm in break in process and so far so good.
Cost:
Zimmermann OEM drilled rotor x2: $365
3 hours work.
Checked rotors and find there were rust on the back.
See picture, metal rusted under the contacting surface and peeled off.
Never think the rotor can rust this way, must related to the holes as it is drilled disk. With so many holes it opens more space for water to attack.
Replaced both fronts.
Process is simple, and only thing worth mentioning is how to deal with the stubborn disks.
After caliper and rotor holding screw are off, I couldn't remove the disk.
The rust is like glue stuck the rotor on the hub.
No huge hammer wracking, no torch heating which could introduce damage. Just PB blast and wait, yes wait for an hour or so let the rust soaked and disintergrated.
Then a bit of pry behind the rotor will release the disk easily.
When I put rotors back I applied thin grease on mating surfaces and around the rotor to prevent future rust.
But keep grease away from braking surface and the bolt holes.
Torque for Caliper bolts: 115nm plus thread lock; Wheel lugs: 150nm;
I'm in break in process and so far so good.
Cost:
Zimmermann OEM drilled rotor x2: $365
3 hours work.
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nissen58 (04-06-2020)
12-31-2013, 03:44 PM
#196
MBWorld Fanatic!
.... to keep ABC in a good shape and keep ABC cost reasonable, you have to do regular maintenance.
Why, we do regular maintenance on engine, transmission, transfer case, differential, etc... Why not ABC ?
E.g. if you leave the fluid in transmission as 'sealed for life', you trany won't last. ABC won't either.
If you can DIY, that's good. If not, insist your mechanic or your dealer to do the ABC regular maintenance for you.
Why, we do regular maintenance on engine, transmission, transfer case, differential, etc... Why not ABC ?
E.g. if you leave the fluid in transmission as 'sealed for life', you trany won't last. ABC won't either.
If you can DIY, that's good. If not, insist your mechanic or your dealer to do the ABC regular maintenance for you.
1. The "bleed nipples" that are actually used for draining each leg of the solid pipes leading to each strut, tend to rust and seize over time. Whenever you have cause to undo the nipples, I suggest replacing them with new ones as a matter of course. Get a stock of them.
2. The ride height at each corner is measured with a lever arm sensor, connected to the respective wishbone with a short link. The links have ball-joints at each end which corrode and seize. On my car, a seized joint led to the small mounting bracket itself providing the necessary articulation, so it failed. I strongly recommend checking the link ball joints, say every year or so. Its not a catastrophe in the making, but it could really spoil your day.
3. On the W220, the front struts are mounted to the ball joints in the track arms with a peculiar flanged spigot that's secured with a torx grub screw. Can't imagine who could have thought of that. Obviously, that seizes as well, which stops you removing the strut in the intended manner (and you will need to remove a strut or two at some time). I suggest removing and cleaning up the screws every few years. The W221 has a much better arrangement, and the rear struts are much more straightforward.
4. Finally, most avoidable of all, each strut has a quick-release hydraulic connection at the end of the hard lines. Hydraulically its very robust, but its really a dumb idea as the collar always seizes. Ultimately you can free the collars with pliers, but it takes hours rather than seconds. When the weight is on the wheels, the hydraulic pressure holds the joint tight, but if you raise the car you can rotate the collar to keep it free.
5. And as always, never drive with red warnings or an empty ABC reservoir.
Best of luck,
Nick
Last edited by Welwynnick; 01-02-2014 at 02:37 PM.
02-10-2014, 08:30 AM
#197
MBWorld Fanatic!
I thought I'd mention a couple of hours that were well spent yesterday. My car has done a high mileage and the suspension is pretty tired. It squeaks when I get into it, and it squeaks over bumps; pretty embarassing really.
I narrowed it down to the balljoint at the bottom of the RHS rear strut, so I disconnected the strut and the lower arm, and eased the strut back.
The balljoint has rubber boots, and I removed the circular retaining clips.
Everything was very dirty, so I cleaned it all out and re-packed it with grease, then wobbled and spun the balljoint round many times to spread the grease.
Refitting the rubber boot was tricky, but it all went back together.
The strut mounting goes back in first - its easy if you hold the lower arm DOWN with a lever.
Then the lower arm is reconnected to the suspension upright - its easy if you lift the lower arm UP with a jack.
The bolts are big - you need 21mm or 13/16 tools, E-Torx sockets, and big levers.
If you need to remove a strut for any reason, that would be a good time to do it.
I drove to work this morning, and all the noises went away. I was never as happy with the ride of my current V12TT as I was with my previous V12NA, but this went a long way to redressing the difference - its a different car.
Sorry, no pictures, I had very dirty hands and it was getting late.
Anyway - very worthwhile.
Nick
I narrowed it down to the balljoint at the bottom of the RHS rear strut, so I disconnected the strut and the lower arm, and eased the strut back.
The balljoint has rubber boots, and I removed the circular retaining clips.
Everything was very dirty, so I cleaned it all out and re-packed it with grease, then wobbled and spun the balljoint round many times to spread the grease.
Refitting the rubber boot was tricky, but it all went back together.
The strut mounting goes back in first - its easy if you hold the lower arm DOWN with a lever.
Then the lower arm is reconnected to the suspension upright - its easy if you lift the lower arm UP with a jack.
The bolts are big - you need 21mm or 13/16 tools, E-Torx sockets, and big levers.
If you need to remove a strut for any reason, that would be a good time to do it.
I drove to work this morning, and all the noises went away. I was never as happy with the ride of my current V12TT as I was with my previous V12NA, but this went a long way to redressing the difference - its a different car.
Sorry, no pictures, I had very dirty hands and it was getting late.
Anyway - very worthwhile.
Nick
02-15-2014, 08:44 AM
#198
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
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MB 2003 S600. Volvo 2003 XC70.
I thought I'd mention a couple of hours that were well spent yesterday...
The balljoint has rubber boots, and I removed the circular retaining clips.
Everything was very dirty, so I cleaned it all out and re-packed it with grease, then wobbled and spun the balljoint round many times to spread the grease...
The balljoint has rubber boots, and I removed the circular retaining clips.
Everything was very dirty, so I cleaned it all out and re-packed it with grease, then wobbled and spun the balljoint round many times to spread the grease...
My LF BJ went last year due to boot damage then grease lost. When I removed the boot I saw the ball is rusted and loose so repack wasn't an option.
In case your BJ went bad again, you may need to check the boot for any damage which is why it gets dirty inside and lost grease. And buy a new BJ as a treat for her.
Howard
05-01-2014, 11:18 PM
#199
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2005 s600
High pressure expansion hose
Been following the thread for a while and thought i would post some work that I do as well. I bought the s600 knowing maintenance was going to be an issue but knew i would do most of it myself to lower the ownership cost. While driving down the road i got a white ABC notice that came on for about 5 seconds before quickly turning red and saying drive carefully. The car became incredibly bouncy. I knew all about the dreaded ABC problems and i looked for the nearest place to pull over and shut off the car before the tank emptied and air was injected, took about 1/2 mile which i dont yet know if that was too long and if the pump is fried. Taking the car apart it is definately the high pressure expansion hose that burst. The tube that goes right under all the pullies and wraps back onto itself. Many threads have talked about this but all are saying different things. Id rather not lift the motor if i dont have to replace it, is this even possible and where are all the locations this tube is held on? Can i test if my pump is still ok before putting all that expensive fluid is put back in to test it out? Any help from someone who went through this already would be appreciated. I have and will post pictures when i figure out how to.
05-02-2014, 09:32 AM
#200
MBWorld Fanatic!
If it's the pipe I think it is, you don't need to lift the engine.
There are three flexible ABC hoses right in front of the engine. One goes across and then backwards towards the regulator, and is difficult to access. The other is the damper, and is more accessible.
Both of them have common banjo connections to the ABC pump outlet, and are difficult to access. The best advice is to remove the cooling fan and poly-V belt, and buy a fine-tooth 3/8" ratchet before you even think about starting work.
If it was just half a mile, you will probably be OK. I don't think there's any way to test the pump without refilling the fluid.
I'm planning to change another one of my hoses this month. There's lots of help here if you need it. Good luck.
Nick
There are three flexible ABC hoses right in front of the engine. One goes across and then backwards towards the regulator, and is difficult to access. The other is the damper, and is more accessible.
Both of them have common banjo connections to the ABC pump outlet, and are difficult to access. The best advice is to remove the cooling fan and poly-V belt, and buy a fine-tooth 3/8" ratchet before you even think about starting work.
If it was just half a mile, you will probably be OK. I don't think there's any way to test the pump without refilling the fluid.
I'm planning to change another one of my hoses this month. There's lots of help here if you need it. Good luck.
Nick
Last edited by Welwynnick; 05-04-2014 at 04:10 AM.
