wallyp

I really think that driving enthusiastically keeps our cars running better.

jc4635

Im a newbie here so I thought I would give this a try. I have a 99 E430 that is running well but has started ticking fairly loud and it seems to be coming from the fuel rail/one of the injectors, but I suppose it could be lifters too. The car has almost 180,000 miles. I have a video link of the noise.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0u...w?usp=drivesdk

ibeforreal

JC, welcome to the forum. However, you may receive better info on the W210 forum. This is the S-Class (W220).

cmpcpro

I'd love to give it full throttle down the on ramp but with 500hp I can barely give it a third throttle and I'm slowing for someone ahead of me lol

jc4635

I took your advice and maybe the W210 forum will have some ideas.

maxandgrinch

My clicking sound, with hood open, with my ears, me standing there, sounds like the clackity clack of fuel injectors.

My S430 hit 196,500 May 7th 2017.

The car has been 'in the family,' since 70k. It hasn't been maintained like I would have, had it been mine; however, it has been absolutely reliable for me since 192k when I replaced my POS disappointing never again thin-leather lifter/camshaft needing junk not sure MB even built it, '07 CLS63AMG with only 85k , and since I've been bringing everything up to awesome following the DIY notes here.

Reading this thread initially, I tried the 3 bottles of Techron + Italian tuneup technique; but IMO they're still the source of the noise. I get 19mpg (which is amazing for a pavement luxury version of the Queen Mary II without the required captains license) for the boating, I mean, what I use the car for.

I'll shoot video for the sound. Pull the injectors, have them serviced, reinstall, and shoot video for comparison. The car will not have any other work done to it affecting the running while the injectors are out.

My other car @ 100k + me doing maintenance damaged an injector o-ring would have cost almost as much as having having them cleaned including new o-rings installed.

I sent all of the injectors to Mr.Injector he did flow testing before and after his services. One injector was 80% while the others were 98% before service, and the testing results after cleaning were an across the board 100%.

tusabes

How much did mr injector cost ?

maxandgrinch

Check his website, I think it will end up being about $140 for all eight, plus shipping. When you consider the Genuine upper o-ring is $4/$1.50 for

Priority Mail shipping and $400 insurance (cost of 8 new ones) totaled $13

Spending the day cleaning nasty valve covers.

maxandgrinch

Eight total days without injectors, five business days total involved.

Total was under $180 including $400 insurance both ways, postage, and his services. Cumulative loss was about 5% before cleaning. The injector numbers on the report are not related to the cylinder where they were originally located. I'm guessing the most blocked flow injectors were at the end of the fuel rail 'U' where bonus chunks of whatever collected from the entire fuel system and were pushed to the last two outlets.

Two injectors were @ 92%, rest were a bit better. Wonder what they were like before the 3 Techron/1 tank of gas X2, and how much I actually paid for the Techron.

I doubt there will be a noticeable improvement in mileage or performance, however I think it was worth it, and next time I won't do the Techron.

Didn't take photos of the injectors before because of the now fixed Valdeze like valve cover situation. Who knew they were green?

jc4635

I have been reading threads about a constant tick tick tick that my W210 99 E430 was having. Lots of threads lead me to the (mot) pictures above which does have a fast clicking noise until oil warms up, but isnt that loud. I also had others tell me it could be valves. It sounded like it was coming from my injector area on my driver's side. I removed the fuel rail and inspected and cleaned the injectors. I changed all of my vacuum hoses and oil cooler rubber hoses. I found vacuum lines completed destroyed. It is good to check those. Pelican Parts has a lot of technical data on where to check these. None of this solved my ticking noise!!!! Turns out my static tick tick tick noise was voltage loss from at least one of the coil packs or plug wires. I removed all 4 coil packs on the driver's side and everyone had cracks in the housing. I used 100% silicone on each one and cleaned connections. I have no ticking noise any longer!!!!

300SE1993

My '04 S430 has a noise like this coming from the top left side of the engine. Sometimes after driving hard or using Techron, the sound goes away for a while. Sometimes an oil change makes the sound go away. it always returns. It's been doing this for the 31K miles I've had the car and has never affected smooth running or power. It's never gotten any worse. I got the car with 185K and it now has 216K miles now.

vinflouen

I have a 2005 S430 and I have a ticking sound coming from the top of the pass side head. By cyl 3.
I only hear it when the car is warm and parked at idle.
Its a slow knock sound....tok Tok Tok Tok Tok......

Tech put the stethoscope on it and says its coming from the top of the head. Most likely rockers.

Car runs smooth as butter. No loss of power. I do not hear any knocking when I hit it hard.
I use 93 gas, and run Techron through it every so often. I use Mobil 1 M 5w-40....
So I am going to have the rockers replaced, possibly the camshafts as well.

While there will also have valve covers and breathers done as well.
I am also going to have belt and pulleys replaced.
I have 95k on the motor and its fine and I am a maintenance fanatic, so I see this as taking pressure off the top end of the motor and making it last a very long time.
I do drive it hard on the highway and I just want to keep it 100%

ctravis595

This thread seems to affirm my suspicion

seems after 100k miles mercedes injectors are sometimes known to get a bit noisy

the problem with refurbished/ cleaned injectors is they can also be loud! I believe there’s no amount of “cleaning” you can do to restore the mechanisms in the injector back to how they were when they were new. Too much heat and such happening in our engine bays

I know this because I replaced one injector with a “rebuilt” one and it’s one of my loudest injectors now

so unfortunately I’m starting to believe the answer is new injectors. Luckily I’m interested in upgrading injectors and adding a turbo to my car soon, otherwise I would hate spending money on replacing injectors that still technically “work”

for reference my engine has somewhere between 110-120k miles and finally I’m starting to get some excess injector noise.

It can be distinguished from lifter tick by using a mechanics stethoscope, the fuel rail especially will act as an acoustic chamber and from there it’s a dead giveaway the noise is from the injectors. I had a 5.0 m113 engine with noisy lifters after someone put dirt in the gas tank... bad lifters often sound more “mechanical” and noisy injectors sound more like a light “clicking” if that makes any sense

Kebowers47

IMHO, based on more than 60 years experience keeping internal combustion engines of numerous makes, sizes, use, and fuels, AND great experience with TEXACO formulating, manufacturing, and testing lube oils of all kinds, I offer a few comments.

MANY of todays automotive gasoline engine oils do not have sufficient 'extreme pressure anti-wear' additive for best engine life. THE BEST EVER is "ZDDTP"--zinc- dialkyl-dithio-phosphate. This premiered in Texaco Havoline motor oils in the early 60's. ZDDTP, reacts with the iron in the cam,lifters, rockers, etc., ONLY in the high pressure zones, to make iron phosphate, which is extremely hard and wear resistant. A similar, but significantly different Z'Da'DTP molecule is needed for DIESEL engines because the crankcase environment is drastically different. Charlatan (copy-cat) 'zinc' additives without the specific 'dialkyl' molecule are mostly not effective. The extremely high metal-to-metal pressures in the cam-rocker/lifter/valve area is often too high for the lower ZDDTP content oils to provide adequate wear protection.
.Pressures on the vulnerable surfaces increase dramatically with throttle opening and engine RPM. 'Sprited driving' of even short duration can scuff the metal surfaces, which will then continue to wear much faster and lead to excessive noise and even cam lobe wear-off.

The 'ZINC' levels were lowered a few years ago at the behest of auto manufacturers because zinc is detrimental to the long term effacy of the catalytic converters. The auto guys were trying to reduce engine internal friction with lower tension piston rings and less tight valve stem seals. oil sump volumes shrunk and crankcase temperatures soared. Oil consumption levels more than doubled to as much as 1 qt/500 miles and even more and were called 'normal and not excessive.' 'High' oil consumption called for lots more fresh oil addition, which helped enable longer oil change intervals which the car makers were seeking. It took a few years and lots of damaged camshafts and complete engines for the auto makers to develop engines that would 'live long' {past warranty periods}. Remember the craze to brag about 'roller lifters?"

I recomend use of at least 5W or higher oils that advertise 'superior wear protection' or similar language, or add some ZDDTP additive purchased at an autoparts store. I presume we all drive engines that are not 'oil burners' which would dump 'zinc' on the catalysts.