g60wall

I literally Am going through the same thing. I Reached out to them and they suggest 14 10 spring rate for the S65. I also asked the question what was the difference mechanically between the different valve types, and got no response. I would go with the standard mounts as they have rubber top bushing. The pillow ball as I have read, seem to be more applied to keeping the suspension geometry perfect, with comfort not really in the picture. The yellow speed springs don't offer rubber suspension mounts and its just literally metal on the strut tower. Now that my springs have settled on the S55 the ride on my Yellow speed kits is really good. I can only imagine how good it would be if it had rubber bushings! The sway bars really allow you to loose up the damping on the struts.

Ok back to struts
Do you plan on putting sways on?
If not I would go with a higher spring rate as to compensate for the no sway. I believe with the extra v12 weight the helper springs up front. I assume the rally valving is more mechanically sound than the others. I am not sure though. I would choose rally valving. I would go with the standard mount. The way we set the ride height was by setting the coiler to the length of the ABC strut before installing it. I believe it is 27in to the wheel arch on all 4 corners now.

AlexMercedes

I do plan putting on only front sway bars. However, I'm most likely going to do the conversion in two stages: first stage install all four coilover struts and replace tandem pump with normal pump, second stage replace lower control arms and add front sway bar.

I assume the 14 10 spring rate also would apply to the s600 since the s65 is a very similar car to it. I would still ask them though for what the best setup would be.

DrDoe

Nick,
I figured out why I had no issues with loosing the double output banjo bolt. It's because of the 19" stubby ratchet wrench. You have no room with the standard wrench.
The new tandem pump had been installed and I have to create a T for the 2 output lines to go back to the reservoir. It's a dirty setup but it works for now...

DrDoe

I have a leak on the power steering lines. The 6mm Allen wrench can't reach it.
Looks like it needs to be tightened or couple new o-rings. I supposed the subframe need to be dropped? Any info on the o-ring sizes?

ItalianJoe1

Those lines are integral in the rack, they don't usually leak... Are you sure it's not coming from the lines on top of the rack?

You could probably loosen the rack and move it a little, but yeah if it needs to come out, gotta lower the subframe I believe.

DrDoe

I'm sure the leaks are from those o-rings. Anything above the o-rings are dry. Sucks that I have to drop the subframe to see if they need to be tightened.

DrDoe

Does anyone know if this set allows power steering lines removal without having to drop the subframe?

Welwynnick

I don't think you have to drop the subframe - it's just difficult without, especially if the engine mounts have sagged.

The problem is you have to get an 18mm wrench between the subframe and sump in order to hold the rack mounting nuts.

I would unbolt the engine mounts and lift the engine up half an inch.

Nick

ItalianJoe1

This part was impossible for me.

Far easier to lift the engine, absolutely. We do it all the time for a variety of reasons, even simple a/c compressor replacements require moving of the engine from time to time.

DrDoe

I looked up EPC and here's what I see

#70 can be dropped easily but it won't help much. I took a chance and ordered #40 & #45 plus the stubby L wrench set. If the leaks remain then I will look at #210.

DrDoe

Once #70 dropped, the whole steering arms can be pushed forward and exposed #40. I didn't want to go this route as I don't want to have to deal with wheel alignments.
I got the stubby L 6 and it fits perfectly. One of the #40 can't be removed completely but I was able to replace the seal rings for both sides.
The last MB master tech installed the wrong size seal rings and they were shredded (purple rings). The main leak was from the deformed rings (green rings on the right) Perhaps from excessive heat?

TenZero

Well, the power steering side of my tandem pump is going. Got 6000 miles out of it. Making lots of noise and hard to turn the wheel. Has anyone successfully converted a V12 tandem pump to a PS only pump from a V8? I'd like to do it this way, rather than buying another tandem, but the whole pulley thing seems to be an obstacle. Yellowspeed equipped 04 S600.

tusabes

You can get a tandem for $250 from Rockauto

DrDoe

I don't get it. I replaced the seal rings and nuts with OEM parts and the leaks are there still there. Are ideas?

TenZero

Only a couple things are likely that I would check for. Scratches/gouges on the sealing surfaces, or a piece of dirt/contamination causing a leak. Also, if there is a groove in the banjo that the oring sits in, it will leak if the oring gets pinched outside the groove through not being seated correctly. Last, use dial calipers to measure and compare the cross section (thickness of the rubber) of the old and new orings. It is possible they sold you the wrong size oring. That's happened to me before.

DrDoe

Thanks for the inputs. The parts were correctly ordered. I guess I have no choices but to get new seal rings again to see if new rings made a difference.
My power steering reservoir went from full to completely empty in 3 weeks otherwise I would just live with the leaks.