P0120 & Limp Mode
I did order and just replace the pedal position sensor on the car. Problem is not resolved.
My reasonable next step is to order replacement wheel sensor.
What other options can I be tracking down? OBD2 lists P0120. Inside the car, it reads Pre Safe something or other not working, and ESP malfunction.
Symptom is no throttle input. Warning messages come up. Idle is smooth at first, then a bit choppy. Full throttling the pedal gives me maybe 1500 to 2000 rpm and what feels like super rich / safe or very minimal TPS percentage.
TB itself. I wonder what those go for?
I did a precursory look in the engine bay tonight before the light faded. Nothing was loose. I disconnected and reconnected the TB harness. No change.
Got sidelined.... driving the SC'd vette and got rear-ended the other night. Living on pain meds with concussion for a little while.
Still open to other ideas. Am down the garage now, so going to pull the rear wheels and look at the existing sensors - maybe try cleaning them up and reseating them to see if anything changes.
Seeing where those sensors are now on my car, there is no way I touched them. They still have an even film of road dust, too, so no contact.
I will still replace the sensors when they come in.
Thoughts? Advice? What else can I be checking? Not a lot of chiming in on this post. If it were the TB, how can I test that or verify?
Then you have electrical gremlins?
I would start by pulling the screen off your airbox intake (for the climate control) and looking down at the reed valve/drain in the bottom. See any gunk in there? Or is it bone dry and clean?
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I bought a replacement TB from a 2006 instead of coughing up for new right off the bat. I just finished installing it, and there is no difference or change. The car starts, goes into cold idle, then after short amount of time goes into ESP inactive. At no point is throttle input from the pedal accepted.
Now the gremlin hunt begins.
Is there anyone in the northeast / CT area I can approach for this one instead of a dealer?
The car is still only throwing the one P0120 code.
At this point, I am frustrated. Anyone think it could be the speed sensors? I have not installed the new ones yet. I will have some time to look at the car on Sunday again finally.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Having gone over the car and tested all the pin-outs to be working, they determined that the throttle body is dead and must be replaced.
They offered that they could have a replacement on-hand and do the repair this week for $2,600. Knowing MB charges $900 or more for the part and the job is about an hour, maybe two by the shop book guide there, I am guessing overnight shipping would be the catch. In either case, I know I can get the part for $522 brand new from Bosch on Amazon and I will do that.
Odd that my oem TB went... and the tested / functioning TB I bought from E-bay is also dead... I must wonder if the MB tech did sufficient hunting before tossing the $2,600 quote at me for a TB swap, but I will follow through on it. I will also approach the parts guy and see what he can do for me, since he sometimes knocks off shipping and gives the military discount which helps before diving on the Amazon option.
Somewhere on this forum is the reset procedure for the throttle circuit (I believe in the "stickies") - search!
Good luck!
Throttle body motor travel can be "read" with SDS.
Independent garages may also have such a system.
Update your member info with your location - members here often have that equipment.
Last edited by kraut56; Nov 20, 2018 at 01:56 PM.
OK, so sds is like what I have for my gm as a tech 2 or 3 access system which communicates with all the systems / modules on the car and can reprogram them. Sounds handy on such an electronics-forward car.
I placed the order tonight for the new tb after reading through the techs notes. Delivery date uncertain, but should be about 2 weeks. I may break down my original one in that time just to see how it works and what may have failed.
OK, so sds is like what I have for my gm as a tech 2 or 3 access system which communicates with all the systems / modules on the car and can reprogram them. Sounds handy on such an electronics-forward car.
I placed the order tonight for the new tb after reading through the techs notes. Delivery date uncertain, but should be about 2 weeks. I may break down my original one in that time just to see how it works and what may have failed.
You can browse/search this forum for SDS systems.
Delt with a concussion from a car accident and recovered. Also moved since my last post, so I've been busy. But the car goes to the dealer next Monday again now that I have tried three (factory original and two used pieces) throttle bodies and the problem persists. I want the dealer to confirm for me that the signal is correct and reaching the throttle body. Partly to say I told you so, and partly to slap them for suggesting I spend $2600 to buy/install a brand new TB to definitely solve the issue. Yeah, ok.
But I've finally got a big garage to work in, so if I have to rewire or chase it down over the winter on my own I can. That may be exactly how it goes down. No other new codes or issues. Just idle with no throttle input. Annoying.
You may have received a bad replacement pedal. Do you have your original pedal? Can you check the sensor on it and see if it is functioning with a multi meter? Can you check your replacement pedal and see if you're getting the same readings?
If it's possible that your replacement Throttle Body was bad 3 times, then maybe, could your replacement pedal also be defective.....possibly?
Like kraut56 mentioned....there's only 3 pieces to this issue. Throttle Position Sensor (gas pedal), Throttle Body or the wiring.
Performance Imports, Danbury, CT they are a Mom and Pop business, can't go wrong with them. Johnny
Apparently, the pedal and 3x TBs work perfectly. They had their master tech work on it this time and he went a little further than the initial guy on my prompting. The computer itself died and I have a replacement coming in from Benz for Thursday since they said it is essentially a proprietary part and install/program for the car. Not cheap, but still less than a new TB and/or a new TB and then adding a new ME on top of that expense.
Or, if wisdom on here negates the dealership's direction about it needing to be a custom piece and not from a donor S600, I am all ears if I can change it out without dealer expense.


The ECU, the transmission shifter, the ignition computer, and the key/keys are a matched set. It is often possible to buy a used theft-critical set and install it, but you will also then probably need to have the computer parameters set to match the equipment on your car. This has to be done using SDS (STAR Diagnostic System), either the $30 - $40,000 dealer system, or the $450 - $600 Chinese clone version that individuals buy. You might find an independent who has (and knows how to use) SDS. Or, if you are interested in DIY, you could buy an SDS clone. You can usually sell a proven, working SDS for pretty much what you paid for it - they don't depreciate much...
A dealer can purchase a "virgin" ECU and then match it to your car, and it sounds as if that is what is planned.
Good luck, regardless of the path chosen. And, we hope that it turns out to be a Happy New Year!
For all the back and forth, the end result is that the engine management computer had died. A quick swap and the car is back on track.
I wanted to be sure to post the solution. You never know who will have the same or similar headache years down the road and come seeking answers on the forum.
Loving the car again, and just in time for winter to begin here.







