Hi guys, if anyone can steer me in the right direction I would appreciate it because the dealer is stumped.
My S600 MY2005 was working fine. On a hot day I stopped at a mall, came out an hour later, and was presented with ESP and Display defective message and the car wouldn't crank. I've read this can be caused by a crank position sensor (the dealer calls it an L5 sensor and claims it can't be the issue - unless they're confused) or SAM issue. I called Mercedes, they sent out a technician who also couldn't get it right (he didn't have a scanner with him). They called a flat bed, and towed the car. Get to the dealership and it starts 1st time.
They say no error code stored. The last thing I want to do is drive far out of town and get stuck again, so please help...................

 

Sorry, but you are in the wrong forum - this is the W220 Forum, for 1999 - 2006 S-Class cars.

 

Typo it's a W220 MY2005

 

I ran in to the same problem over the Christmas Holiday while at my wife's grandparents' house in Jefferson, SC. I got the message upon startup, cut the car off and back on and haven't seen the message again. Anyone know what the problem is?

 

2005 S600 with AMG kit. 108k miles

I was driving to work the day before yesterday, going around 55 mph with no excessive acceleration - basically coasting. Suddenly I felt a clunk and it was like I tapped the breaks and hard. At that point it sounded like the exhaust was a little louder, like a hole in the muffler or a loose pipe. I drove the last mile, got to work parked in the garage and shut it off. It seemed to run fine and had no messages or Check Engine Light. I went to leave and tried to start it, the dash lights came on but would not turn over. No solenoid click. Display Defective - Malfunction ESP and CEL all came on. Battery is a month old. I have been having issues with accelerating more than 50% of the pedal travel, it would sputter, go into limp mode and flag CEL. I would shut it off and it would run fine again. I could clear the CEL also. I was told by a mechanic that his Malibu was doing the same thing and it was the throttle body actuator. I bought a salvaged one for $75 as a new one is $1,100 all day long and I figured with a year warranty and it fixed it for a while, I could buy a bunch of them for $1,100. It should be here in 6 days. I have had this car for 3 months and have been working on it since I got it. It has not been right in multiple ways. The list of repairs so far:
Both coil packs, spark plugs, voltage transformer, valve cover gaskets, MAP sensor, front pads/rotors/calipers, rear rotors/pads, all 4 accumulators, leveler valve, fluid filter, front struts, HP hose, transmission fluid/filter/pan/electrical connector, throttle pedal (TPS), 12 piece front suspension/steering/alignment, battery, cabin filters, fuel filter, soft-close pump and the driver side rocker panel. I ran up against a boulder in his driveway when I pulled out to take the test drive and scratched/scraped/crunched it a bit. (Basically wrecked it).
List of items to go: get it running, throttle body assy, engine oil cooler/o-rings/gasket, flex joints, drive shaft support/bearing, AT shift linkage bushings, inter cooler pump, fix 8 door dings, repair 4) 19" AMG wheels with curb rash, trunk lid hydraulics, (will not open/close lid), keyless-go (says key not recognized) and the center/rear headrest is stuck in the up position. This was quite the 'fixer-upper'.
I have read several comments/suggestions for troubleshooting my issue: battery, relays, CSPS (not likely) brake light switch (maybe, could also fix keyless-go) steering column level switch?, one SAM or another, fuses, Ignition switch (not likely as it turns and allows me to shift gears) and Neutral safety switch (certainly possible). Many thanks to Gregg, a part-time mechanic with a lift in his garage where my car has spent many days.
Updates to follow.

 

The issue with the display and all the no key, etc. issues are not a throttle actuator type fault. When a throttle actuator goes bad, the engine goes into 'Limp Mode' and gives no throttle response till pedal is pushed past about 40% and is hard to press.
A bad connection on the battery or a bad 'ground' will cause all sorts of weird 'false failures'
After R&R of battery connections and checking all the grounds you can get to, then have a GOOD scan of all the systems and see what shows up, can't be cleared, or immediately shows up again.

It's too bad you purchased a 'project fixer-upper' if you did not know it and didn't get a real low price either. The ability and commitment to do much of the work yourself will save $thousands. Gremlins in the electrical system can be very time consuming to find and fix. Slapping in new (or recycled) parts can get very expensive and even make things worse. Good Luck and be sure and share to story and solution!

 

I just remembered---if 'the system' does not recognize or communicate with the electronic key FOB, the car WILL NOT START. Everything 'seems normal' except nothing happens when trying to start the engine.
Your PROBLEM could be weak batteries in the key fob or a bad key fob. The key fob and the ESP system MUST communicate and 'sync up' to turn off the no-start anti- theft system.

 

I got my replacement throttle body today and as predicted, no joy. I hope once I get it running it will fix the issue with limp on high acceleration. Anyway,I pulled the brake light switch which has 2 plugs, found a diagram and metered the connections. All passed as designed. I have checked fuses and swapped relays. I'm still looking for other causes for 'won't turn over'. Have not ruled out the neutral safety switch, anyone know where it is or how to bypass it? Any other clues appreciated.

 

"Your PROBLEM could be weak batteries in the key fob"

Key fob batteries are not involved in starting or running - only locking, unlocking, etc.


While there are numerous possible problems that can cause a no-crank situation, remember that all of the old original (non-computer) problems are still possible - things like failed starter solenoid, worn or stuck starter brushes, failed starter motor, broken or loose electrical conditions, etc., etc.

 

I got a tip to check the fuse box which is under the hood, passenger side, next to the big fuse/relay/SAM box but much smaller and runs perpendicular to the bigger one. The top pops off and under it are 4 fuses and 2 relays. The top 20 amp fuse was blown. Replaced and fired right up. I now have cylinder misfires with codes that come right back after a clear but at least it runs. It no longer falls into limp mode (which I hope is a result of the new throttle body/actuator) but it now runs with very low giddy-up. I do not want to pull out into traffic but finally got it home. The saga continues.
The top one was blown

 

Both faults of these cars sound like just a power source issue. Check the battery connections first before replacing a bunch of parts. pull off the carpet on the battery side of the trunk and inspect the positive power distribution module for corrosion. Check the negative battery cable where it attaches to the body for any damage. In the passenger front footwell, pull back the carpet flap from the firewall, remove the foam and metal panel, and inspect the other positive battery distribution point for corrosion. The one in the passenger footwell is is common issue actually, so it would be unsurprising to have a bunch of water damage there due to a clogged air conditioning vent drain.

 

My 2006 does this occasionally. If I remove the key, then move the steering wheel a little and try again it works. Mine probably needs a steering wheel position/angle sensor.