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‘03 MB S600; ‘07 Saab Aero conv; ‘65 Vette; ‘66 vette; ‘05 BMW Z4
Stuck shifter question
2003 S600 - I have the infamous stuck shifter problem. This is the second time - I had the plastic lever replaced several years ago by my Indy, which apparently has broken again. Thought I might tackle it myself this time. Watched a couple of videos and I’m at the point where the center armrest just came out.
Before I go any further, I know there’s a retaining ring or clip that connects the shifter to the linkage. I’m concerned that it won’t come off easily, or once the shifter is rebuilt, the orig clip will be mangled, dropped/lost into the hole, or for some reason I won’t be able to put it back on.
Appreciate advice from someone that’s performed this job already.
That clip comes off pretty easily - a bit of pressure from a screwdriver to release it from the groove, slide it back a hair, and the post can be removed from the bushing and linkage.
You might consider replacing that bushing while you're there. My shifter problem turned out to be the bushing, not the infamous lever... But I had ordered the aluminum lever anyway, so I installed it, put a dab of superlube (silicone grease) on each of the pivot points inside the shifter, replacing the dried-out stuff that was there, and put it all back together with both a new bushing and a new lever. Works great now.
The bushing on the transmission end, showing old (blue) and new (black). This was the cause of my shifting problems.
Both the shifter end, and the transmission end, are the same part number. And the new part is black, not that aqua blue of the old part. Also, not a lot of room to work in the transmission tunnel for the bushing that had failed on the transmission lever...
‘03 MB S600; ‘07 Saab Aero conv; ‘65 Vette; ‘66 vette; ‘05 BMW Z4
Almost there... (almost)
First - let me say thanks to those who commented on my post - much appreciated. Many thanks to Astro14 for posting the photos and encouraging me to go the next step.
The console is out, and all the electrical plugs are disconnected. There are 3 bolts holding the shifter, which I’ve removed, and the shifter is loose. But... on the videos I’ve watched there are two large lines running next to the shifter on either side from front to back. I assumed they were plastic lines supplying conditioned air to the back of the cabin. In the video it looks like they can be simply popped out from the front and pushed back out of the way. However, my lines are aluminum, and it seems if I pull them up to try and move them out of the way they will kink and/or break. Besides, I can see electrical raceways beneath that will certainly limit access if I do get the tubes out of the way. I was hoping to disconnect the shifter from the transmission linkage from inside the cabin, but now that seems to be a false assumption. Am I looking at it the right way, or missing something? I think if I need to disconnect it from the underside, I might put it back together and bring it to my Indy...
Last edited by Bills600; Sep 1, 2020 at 12:45 PM.
Reason: Clarify post
‘03 MB S600; ‘07 Saab Aero conv; ‘65 Vette; ‘66 vette; ‘05 BMW Z4
The shifter is out. I simply needed to pull up a little harder and it came up further. Pressed on the clip, wiggled it a bit, and it came out.
Took the bottom plate and the side black plastic cover plate off. I can see the black plastic clip - but - it doesn’t look broken. At the base I see a small black tab, with a very small flimsy spring that goes from the black tab to the lever. The lever is riveted, and I was hoping it wouldn’t be since I had this repaired once before (and I don’t have a rivet gun). I’m thinking now that maybe the issue is electrical and the brake switch is not working? When I would step on the brake I wouldn’t hear the telltale “click” from the shifter, it I assumed that was because the lever wasn’t moving. Now I”m thinking that the click would be the solenoid engaging, and the lack of sound means it’s the brake switch.
suggestions, ideas welcome.
I did a brake switch in my “68 lemans when I was 16... it was a simple push-button switch that I bought at Autozone or similar for probably $10 and popped it into a bracket at the top of the pedal. I things that easy on this car - so I’d appreciate any advice on how to get started.
‘03 MB S600; ‘07 Saab Aero conv; ‘65 Vette; ‘66 vette; ‘05 BMW Z4
Apologies for all the posts. I read the amazing sticky posted by Skylaw, and took the metal cover off. A little fiddling and I see what the problem is. The black plastic lever isn’t broken, Its warped. It barely engages the tab on the metal lever. A little pressure on either side makes the difference - sometimes the black lever will hit the tab and move the metal lever, sometimes it won’t. I’m thinking if I can attach something to the top of the solenoid to push the lever towards the back of the shifter, it should work fine. I know I can remove the two levers, but I’m not crazy about the idea of not having the safety feature, and I don’t have a replacement lever and really don’t want to wait for one. The fact that the lever is not broken provides a different solution for me. If this works, I’ll likely order a replacement lever “just in case”. Now that I’ve gotten this far I should be able to repeat the work in half the time if and when I have to. Since the lever that’s in there was installed only a a couple of thousand miles ago, I”m hoping it’s got some life left. Besides, the car is already 17 years old. Even with only 60K miles, I can’t keep it forever...
I am curious to know if anyone”s encountered the same issue I’m describing.
‘03 MB S600; ‘07 Saab Aero conv; ‘65 Vette; ‘66 vette; ‘05 BMW Z4
Well - I attempted the jury-rig fix, it I don’t think it worked. Connected the linkage, and the three cables that connect to the shifter body. Started the car, stepped on the brake, and the car still won’t come out of park. I’m about ready to pull out the plastic lever and metal locking lever and put it all back together again, though I’m still wondering if it could be a brake switch issue.
wuestion - should the shifter work the way I have it connected? I’m assuming all the other wiring is for lighting and cabin air controls, so the shifter should work.
Can someone suggest how I might determine if it’s a brake switch issue?
lastly - I’m pretty certain I had the shifter in the P position when I removed it - and reinstalled it. But if that’s not the case - what issues would that cause and how would I know?
and yes, if I replace the lever it will be with an aluminum one!
I used the aluminum one for the replacement. It's a complicated bit of engineering. Overly so, but what can we do? I don't remember enough of the shifter to answer your question. I took it apart, drilled out the pop rivets that were holding things together, fiddled with the linkage internally, and was happy with the actuation of the new lever... I can upload a picture of the thing on my workbench, if that helps...
‘03 MB S600; ‘07 Saab Aero conv; ‘65 Vette; ‘66 vette; ‘05 BMW Z4
The job is done (mostly).
After trying to get the lever from deflecting away from the metal lock lever, I took the shifter out again, popped the eclips, removed both levers and the wire spring. Put everything back together and it works as it should (without the locking mechanism, of course). I may still order the aluminum lever and install it for some additional piece of mind. Having done the job once I can probably do it again in 60-90 minutes.
thanks again Astro14. I likely would have given up before disconnecting the linkage for fear it would be more complicated or I’d lose the clip without your help.
the only casualty of the job is the small leather panel on the rear side of the console. During the reinstall I pushed too hard and broke a clip, so now it’s loose and looks like crap. If I can source another I’ll replace it.
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