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I removed mine and sent it to these folks and for $152 including shipping they rebuilt the unit--about 3 days service plus shipping time. They did a great job.
I removed mine and sent it to these folks and for $152 including shipping they rebuilt the unit--about 3 days service plus shipping time. They did a great job.
I recently acquired a 2001 W220, and it's past the 10 year warranty. The instrument panel lighting is going out, and I'd like to have it repaired. What are my chances?
The dealer checked my VIN and said there's no recall for it. I even handed him the Recall Campaign Bulletin #2006080004, which lists specific instrument cluster part numbers, and he didn't want to look at it. I've already verified that my instrument cluster has a matching part number. He claims that the 10 year warranty superseded the unlimited recall. Can that be true?
I made a little tool from a metal putty knife to pull the instrument cluster out. It has one plug on the back and you can send it to BBA in Massachusetts. $155 or so fixed mine. Found them on EBAY. The two little slots just give you a place to pull on the cluster and it just pops out.See my previous post for BBA contact info
I recently acquired a 2001 W220, and it's past the 10 year warranty. The instrument panel lighting is going out, and I'd like to have it repaired. What are my chances?
The dealer checked my VIN and said there's no recall for it. I even handed him the Recall Campaign Bulletin #2006080004, which lists specific instrument cluster part numbers, and he didn't want to look at it. I've already verified that my instrument cluster has a matching part number. He claims that the 10 year warranty superseded the unlimited recall. Can that be true?
Recalls are not superseded and don't expire; the extended warranty operates in addition to the recall, and made all W220s eligible instead of only those in certain years and VINS.
Be that as it may, the recall wasn't issued only by part numbers for the cluster; it was also limited by certain VINS and model years. The recall applied to your model year; if your VIN is in the range of those specified, and you have the affected part number, then the recall should apply. If, in your case, the VIN wasn't in the recall, then only to extended warranty would apply.
I would take it further up the Mercedes management chain; start with a regional rep.
Any one know if this is the updated part number for the one you listed IPD50N06S2-14?
Originally Posted by esntrk1
First the legal stuff:
Use the following information at your own risk.
Now the info:
It turns out that this $1200. instrument cluster can be repaired for about $15. Just like I thought, it is a power switching transistor (N Channel MOSFET). The part number is BUZ102S made by Infineon.
You'll need to remove the cluster with the tools mentioned above and unplug it. If your cluster is like mine, you'll notice a part that is loose right away. It is the BUZ102S that has fallen off the small power distribution board on the rear of the cluster. There are two large slots on each side of the rear of the cluster. Beneath them are two connectors. Unplug those connectors, then use a small flat head screwdriver to remove the back casing of the cluster. Use a T12 driver to remove the circuit board from the casing. Now you have the board completely removed and and ready to repair.
Important Tech Note
There are three BUZ102S ICs on the board. They all supply power to the instrument cluster and work in parallel. It is important to replace all of them at once. Here's why: When the first IC falls off the board the other two try to compensate by supplying more current. The additional work load causes the transistors to saturate. During this saturation phase, instrument cluster lights flicker on and off. Eventually one of the transistors fails or short circuits. When that happens, the 5A circuit fuse blows. This circuit fuse protects not only the instrument cluster back-lights, but also the guages, the parktronic, the remote truck opener, and the command back lighting. Because you cannot visually tell which transistor has failed, you must replace all three of them at once.
Use a desoldering braid and a 40W soldering iron to remove the ICs. Then carefully solder each new IC to finish the repair. Reassemble the instrument cluster and install. Before testing, locate the 5A protection fuse mentioned above. There should be a fuse diagram sheet with the tool kit located in the trunk of the vehicle. Replace the 5A fuse and test. You should now have cluster lights, guages, parktronic, trunk opener and about $1185. still in your wallet.
Hi all, I have an 06 S430 and have had my cluster replaced under the 10 year warranty. The dealer did it for me in about 45 minutes. I don't understand why your "dealer" has to send it out.
For those of you who are having problems with the gas guage don't blame your cluster first. You could have a sending unit going bad. It happened to me on a previous car. Check the cheap stuff first.
For those DIYers who want to work on their own cluster be careful because if you have never worked with electronic components in the past you could create more damage then you fix. Electro Static Discharge can destroy other components and you will never know it. Its worth sending out to a qualified repair tech so you know it is done right and tested. Dealers don't repair, they just replace.
I also had the Instrument cluster go out today... called the local dealer and they said it was past the 10yr warranty. Super disappointed that MB dealers are so friggin greedy on this one as it is a Absolute Necessity to have the panel working. (if the repair doesn't work I'll check up the food chain at MB and also file at NHTSA the complaint)
Going to order the BUZ102S and attempt a repair first.
Hey Ecclesiastical, did you have any luck repairing your instrument cluster?
On my pcb, there were no BUZ102S transistors that were burned or loose upon inspection. They seemed intact and on the back of the pcb the resistors were all intact showing no signs of overheating.
I think my issue is the transformer VOGT.
i ordered my transformer part and looking forward to repair mine next week.
Hi my name is Paul first post. Hope im in the right place. I know this is late in the game. I read a document that said the IC recall is a safety issue and will not expire. Any way my cluster flickered for awhile then went black. I got in touch with Dealership they ran my Vin and told me to bring my 2002 S500 in because it is included in the recall. I dropped it off and they called me the next day to come pick up my car. When I got there they preceeded to tell me that my cluster had already been replace with the updated one and they were no longer liable to repair/replace it again. Which doesn't make since to me. Even if it ha been updated it still the same safety issue. The update did not fix the problem. Can they do that? What should I do? If anyone could help clarify where I stand It would be greatly appreciated
these are old cars and we never rely on the dealership if we dont have to
if you are diy just buy a cluster and pop that bad boy in. german cars have easy clusters to pop out
make sure you get one with very high mileage so it looks cool ya know
Hello everyone, I am unable to remove the instrument cluster on my 2003 CL500, when I insert the blades there’s no click, I think my mechanic may have tried and damaged the plastic tags that hold the cluster in place. Any advise on how to remove it ?
I was thinking to remove the air vents on the dashboard but I afraid of damaging something.
any suggestions please ?
You are correct, but when I insert the keys they don’t grab on anything , I have a feeling the tabs have been damaged , this is why I was thinking perhaps to take off the air vents and try to push the pins in that way but I don’t know how to remove them without damaging anything
Technically they keys dont grab, they contact the pins and push them in towards the cluster which retracts the springs/tabs. I think the springs/tabs are just plastic. I dont have a CL so im guessing looking at photos.
Have you tried pulling the cluster out, maybe the tabs are already retracted.
If you cant feel the key contacting the pins I would use something like a paperclip or thin sturdy wire, bend it like an L and try to feel around and locate the pins.
I looked at some parts diagrams and not sure you will be able to see the tabs with the air vents removed. But worth a try.
Not sure how much room is between the cluster and the dash, try to slide something in there and force the tabs closed, similar to how you unlock a house door with a credit card. Angle it in and down behind the tab then pull forward to force the tabs in.
I drew the pin in the open position in red, when the key is inserted it pushes the pins inward.(green)