Paint chip
I may attempt to spot it in myself as the spots are less than 2 mm in width.
Have a couple of micro rock chips on hood; one in lower part of front air dam; and a micro-rock chip in passgr side periphery of windshield of my CL63 (prob 99% of people wouldn't notice them but OCD car nuts would)....has 9K+ mis, much of them exuberant wkend driving w/inevitable rock chips....
As much as I'm a fanatic re: carefully parking my car to avoid door dings/wheel scuffs, etc (which I've successfully avoided, despite many yrs of daily urban driving), I view rock chips as part of cost-of-driving....for me, if car has too many of these "driving patina" issues, time to get a new car anyway
....the cure of post-factory paintwork, etc is sub-optimal for this OCD car nut....but to each his own....
JohnH: If I get this fixed, it will probably be done at my next service by their local ding /paint doctor. They do great work around here and I might as well let them touch up a couple of other spots, one which was there when I took delivery of the car when new. I saw it , the salesman pointed it out, but I said not to bother.
At least this is not a ding (knock on wood, or should I say sheetmetal?).
djamer: Using the factory touch up paint would be my only recourse if I tried it myself but you're correct about this....it is hard to do and many times it looks worse than just leaving it alone as the smudgy thickness of the touch up paint stands out like a gold tooth on #9.
)Just at quick glance, you can't see it but when I got down and really looked at it, I think it is down to metal so I will get this touched up professionally sometime within the next 6 months (probably during the summer). Rust is not much of a problem in my area. We are too far away from the beach and we don't get snow to speak of so salt is not an issue. Even when we get snow, we only get sand put on bridges.
Last edited by trumpet1; Mar 2, 2008 at 01:07 PM.
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)Just at quick glance, you can't see it but when I got down and really looked at it, I think it is down to metal so I will get this touched up professionally sometime within the next 6 months (probably during the summer). Rust is not much of a problem in my area. We are too far away from the beach and we don't get snow to speak of so salt is not an issue. Even when we get snow, we only get sand put on bridges.I would do the following if it were mine. -
The Dent Wizard is always the first step. If the chip is accompanied by a dent, no amount of filling with paint will make it disappear. After the dent is removed or if it's not dented, use the factory touch-up paint to fill the chip and then use a product called Lanka to remove the excess. here is the link -
http://www.langka.com/chip-scratch-repair-c-21.html
The product won't hurt the original paint. It can even be used to remove all of the touch-up so you can start again. You'll need to do this about three times or so allowing a week to pass between applications. As the touch-up paint dries, it shrinks. That's why you need to do this over a long period of time. When you're satisfied with how well it is filled, then polish it using your favorite polish. I use Menzerna which was designed especially for clear coat paints.
I think you will be happy with the results and glad you learned how to do it yourself.
Last edited by NJS430; Mar 4, 2008 at 01:08 PM.
I would do the following if it were mine. -
The Dent Wizard is always the first step. If the chip is accompanied by a dent, no amount of filling with paint will make it disappear. After the dent is removed or if it's not dented, use the factory touch-up paint to fill the chip and then use a product called Lanka to remove the excess. here is the link -
http://www.langka.com/chip-scratch-repair-c-21.html
The product won't hurt the original paint. It can even be used to remove all of the touch-up so you can start again. You'll need to do this about three times or so allowing a week to pass between applications. As the touch-up paint dries, it shrinks. That's why you need to do this over a long period of time. When you're satisfied with how well it is filled, then polish it using your favorite polish. I use Menzerna which was designed especially for clear coat paints.
I think you will be happy with the results and glad you learned how to do it yourself.
The good thing about the Lanka is it can be used to remove all of the touch-up paint without effecting any of the original finish. It works up to a week afterward. Your really only need the actual Lanka. Don't be concerned with ordering the fancy kits. It comes with a plastic credit card which I cut into strips about 1/2" wide and bend about 1/2" form the end. I then wrap a piece of linen handkerchief very tightly around the end and tape it. This creates a very flat, very thin pad.
After you apply the touch-up paint and it dries anywhere between 30 minutes and 12 hours - the longer the better. Soak the linen with Lanka, and gentle rub the chip until all of the paint is removed from the area around the paint and only the paint in the chip remains. Takes some practice - rub a little too much and you'll remove all of the paint from the chip - too little and you'll have a bump. Keep in mind that the lanka will discolor the touch-up paint slightly when applied, but it will dry correctly. It will also shrink more when it dries. The best thing is that you are not using sandpaper or disturbing any of the original paint with the repair.
Last edited by NJS430; Mar 4, 2008 at 06:28 PM.
The good thing about the Lanka is it can be used to remove all of the touch-up paint without effecting any of the original finish. It works up to a week afterward. Your really only need the actual Lanka. Don't be concerned with ordering the fancy kits. It comes with a plastic credit card which I cut into strips about 1/2" wide and bend about 1/2" form the end. I then wrap a piece of linen handkerchief very tightly around the end and tape it. This creates a very flat, very thin pad.
After you apply the touch-up paint and it dries anywhere between 30 minutes and 12 hours - the longer the better. Soak the linen with Lanka, and gentle rub the chip until all of the paint is removed from the area around the paint and only the paint in the chip remains. Takes some practice - rub a little too much and you'll remove all of the paint from the chip - too little and you'll have a bump. Keep in mind that the lanka will discolor the touch-up paint slightly when applied, but it will dry correctly. It will also shrink more when it dries. The best thing is that you are not using sandpaper or disturbing any of the original paint with the repair.
On that link that you posted, do I buy the "chip repair kit" or the "blob eliminator"? Also, does anyone happen to know if their is a way to get touch up paint without going to the dealer?
I also find using a very fine touch-up applicator helps since the brush that comes with the touch-up paint will put on 10 times more paint then you need to start. I use these -
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...applicators.do
Just touch one of these to the brush of the touch-up paint and use it to flow the paint into the chip.
For the most part - primer and clear coat is not necessary if the chip isn't that big.
I also find using a very fine touch-up applicator helps since the brush that comes with the touch-up paint will put on 10 times more paint then you need to start. I use these -
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...applicators.do
Just touch one of these to the brush of the touch-up paint and use it to flow the paint into the chip.
For the most part - primer and clear coat is not necessary if the chip isn't that big.
I use those microbrushes daily in my dental work , so I have plenty of those. They are great for applying liquids in small amounts.
Good Luck!
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The best automotive scratch remover for home use, period. This one actually works! The QUIXX 2-Step Repair System was created by German surface technology experts, passing the highest standards tests and selling madly in 50 countries. Now it has come to the U.S., and we have some. Remove small scratches and restore luster like a body shop, at a fraction of the cost. The kit comes with 2 tubes (1 polish, 1 finish), a polishing cloth, and 4 pieces of special sand paper. Get your hands on one of these miracle workers and save hundreds on detailing.
Central Trading Agency guarantees your satisfaction. We have a 30-day money-back guarantee for QUIXX retail customers. If dissatisfied with QUIXX, return the unused portion within 30 days of receipt for a full refund of the purchase price*. We would also appreciate your reasoning, so we can better serve you in the future.
*(excluding shipping)
Weight: 5 oz
Price: $19.95



