





























Most popular color
I don't like black on the inside, but on the outside I've never seen anything that looks better than black.
I don't like black on the inside, but on the outside I've never seen anything that looks better than black.
BTW I agree with you on the Chauffeur thing, every time I see a Black S-Class I think it's Chauffeur/Fancy Cab, too many of those on the streets all of a sudden, starting to ruin my perception of the car a bit (but not too much
)
I use a Porter Cable 7424 orbital polisher. It's pretty much the standard machine used here in the US. It's best to use an orbital polisher because it is highly unlikely that you will do any damage to the paint with it. There are two Menzerna polishes especially formulated for Mercedes nano paint. PO87mc (aka Final Polish II) and P106FA (aka Super Finish). The PO87mc has a stronger cut than the P0106FA. But the shine and depth you will see after using the P0106FA can't be beat. It's easy to forget which one is which so just remember that the white polish is the coarse and the grey polish is the fine. These are the polishes they use in the Mercedes factory. Use the PO87mc followed by the P0106FA. I apply them using green "German" (Green) pad on my orbital polisher. You can use a white one if you can't find the green. The colors denote the cutting power of the pad. The polish dissolves itself as you apply it leaving very little residue. Follow the polishing with an application of Menzerna FMJ or Klasse. I like FMJ because it goes on real easy and it only takes me 30 minutes to apply it to the whole car. The Klasse always seemed a bit more difficult to work with to me.
I've been polishing my cars for a long time and there a few tricks I learned along the way -
Masking Tape - I use the Blue 3M masking tape and some paper to mask off the vents in the hood, the chrome strip at the top and bottom of the doors, the door handles, side marker lights, etc. If you don't, the polish will get into the cracks and you'll spend hours getting it out.
Using the machine - Place the machine on the surface and then turn it on, and turn it off before you lift it off. If you don't, the polish will spray all over and make a mess wherever it lands.
Damp Cloth - Use a damp cloth (Not Wet) to remove the residue after polishing.
Clay - clay works really well to take out anything that has lodged itself into the paint. Although I don't use it much simply because my car is kept so clean most of the time it isn't necessary. If you have a stain or spot from tree sap or a bird you should use clay before you polish.
Boar's Hair Brush - If you don't put the scratches in then you won't need to polish them out. If you use a natural boars hair brush when you wash the car it won't scratch the paint.
Micro fiber towels - Same reason as above. Use these to dry after washing. I have a large super absorbent one that I bought from Griots Garage which I really like.
It doesn't take long to get comfortable using the machine. You'll be a little uneasy at first from the fear of damaging the paint but after a while you'll realize the machine can't "burn" the paint because it's not spinning like a sanding wheel but moving in a very fine orbital motion.
Last edited by NJS430; Sep 23, 2009 at 11:35 AM.




There is very good writeup on this thread, post #4
https://mbworld.org/forums/detailing...-pinnacle.html
Purchase the products this guy recommends.
I, like you, almost never before did it myself.
Now, I find it very soothing and relaxing to go thru the steps, mind you, glass of red wine does help
There is very good writeup on this thread, post #4
https://mbworld.org/forums/detailing...-pinnacle.html
Purchase the products this guy recommends.
I, like you, almost never before did it myself.
Now, I find it very soothing and relaxing to go thru the steps, mind you, glass of red wine does help




I don't have direct comparison between Flex and Porter Cable, but I watched lots of youtube videos and write ups, then made my choice.
I live in PA, you live in New Jersey, drive a lot to NY, pm me your location, maybe I can lend it to you for a weekend or so for comparison?
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
It will be interesting to see how the final poll compares with the real answer you provided, thanks!
I don't have direct comparison between Flex and Porter Cable, but I watched lots of youtube videos and write ups, then made my choice.
I live in PA, you live in New Jersey, drive a lot to NY, pm me your location, maybe I can lend it to you for a weekend or so for comparison?




I use a Porter Cable 7424 orbital polisher. It's pretty much the standard machine used here in the US. It's best to use an orbital polisher because it is highly unlikely that you will do any damage to the paint with it. There are two Menzerna polishes especially formulated for Mercedes nano paint. PO87mc (aka Final Polish II) and P106FA (aka Super Finish). The PO87mc has a stronger cut than the P0106FA. But the shine and depth you will see after using the P0106FA can't be beat. It's easy to forget which one is which so just remember that the white polish is the coarse and the grey polish is the fine. These are the polishes they use in the Mercedes factory. Use the PO87mc followed by the P0106FA. I apply them using green "German" (Green) pad on my orbital polisher. You can use a white one if you can't find the green. The colors denote the cutting power of the pad. The polish dissolves itself as you apply it leaving very little residue. Follow the polishing with an application of Menzerna FMJ or Klasse. I like FMJ because it goes on real easy and it only takes me 30 minutes to apply it to the whole car. The Klasse always seemed a bit more difficult to work with to me.
I've been polishing my cars for a long time and there a few tricks I learned along the way -
Masking Tape - I use the Blue 3M masking tape and some paper to mask off the vents in the hood, the chrome strip at the top and bottom of the doors, the door handles, side marker lights, etc. If you don't, the polish will get into the cracks and you'll spend hours getting it out.
Using the machine - Place the machine on the surface and then turn it on, and turn it off before you lift it off. If you don't, the polish will spray all over and make a mess wherever it lands.
Damp Cloth - Use a damp cloth (Not Wet) to remove the residue after polishing.
Clay - clay works really well to take out anything that has lodged itself into the paint. Although I don't use it much simply because my car is kept so clean most of the time it isn't necessary. If you have a stain or spot from tree sap or a bird you should use clay before you polish.
Boar's Hair Brush - If you don't put the scratches in then you won't need to polish them out. If you use a natural boars hair brush when you wash the car it won't scratch the paint.
Micro fiber towels - Same reason as above. Use these to dry after washing. I have a large super absorbent one that I bought from Griots Garage which I really like.
It doesn't take long to get comfortable using the machine. You'll be a little uneasy at first from the fear of damaging the paint but after a while you'll realize the machine can't "burn" the paint because it's not spinning like a sanding wheel but moving in a very fine orbital motion.
Thank you for the write-up - it helped me a lot! I have bought European alternative to the Porter Cable - wasn't quite sure about the 110V vs 220V standard and went for original MB and Sonax stuff.
Now there are several friends waiting to have their cars detailed.. seems like I got a new job







