I took my new to me car to an indie that does a lot of exotic cars with a 5 star review from many customers and they told me there's no way to adjust especially caster because they're set by MB from factory. I left the shop 160 bucks lighter in my wallet and my alignment is still way off and the balancing of my 22"s rims still feels off. I drove 450 miles home just now and my arm is kind of sore.

Nothing for caster but if the camber is way off, there is a MB camber kit that provides the adjustment needed. MB should just build the car with it since it seems the first alignment always needs it. My dealer alignment was more than yours with the kit.

Should of just have the dealer do the alignment? Mine is pulling a tad bit to the left. And Im thinking about an alignment soon. eBay sells a chamber kit if you do a search?

which camber kit is this? I'm wanna drop the car by another 1" or so and would probably need the camber kit sooner or later. I wanna get this alignment deal straighten out before I start to lowering things though to be sure things doesn't get uglier.

I believe the caster is what makes the steering wheel return back to the straight position after you make a turn. My problem is when I turn left at over 60mph or more and my steering wheel is at the 10 o'clock position or lower I find myself fighting to keep the steering wheel in that position. It almost feel like someone is pulling it back the other way. I don't feel it as much when I turn right. It has a slight pull to the right.

Also, is it any different to balance 22" rims than any smaller rims? cause even after they balance rims, I'm still getting vibration at 60-85mph but I find the following sweet spots with no vibration.. 64, 73-75 and 80-83mph

Here's the alignment reading from the shop. One of the reading is supposed to represent that there's someone in the driver seat.

The "vibration". Chk. the tach. Getting the vibes at about 1700 to 2000 rpm? If so, makes sure your engine mounts aren't crunching down and needing replacement. They don't impact the "pull" or "drift", but sure do the vibration felt in the steering wheel. Below and above the range is usually vibration free. Just another variable to monitor.

Its not the engine mount thbe vibration feels like its coming from the rear wheels

It's no different balancing 22' wheels. From my past experience with vibration exactly at 80mph. Was that my wheel had a bent. Anything lower speed,I didn't feel it as much. My car is pretty low if you asked me (tires are tucked into the fender) and i do notice a bit more of thread wear from the 2 rear tires. But fronts are perfectly fine? I never experience the steering wheel pulling before at any speed. So I'm not sure what is wrong. Have a tire shop check your wheels if there bent if I were you.

It looks there are front camber/caster kits for a W221 on eBay...but check with your dealer if they are worth it.

Caster settings do affect the steering rate of return from a turn to dead center. There is no return with zero caster, but don't know the difference between a minus or a plus setting.

I try to do the first alignment with the dealer to get a copy of the correct settings just in case it gets thrown out of whack and need an indie to do it.

If you feel a vibration in the seat of your pants, it could be a rear tire needs balancing....the steering wheel vibration usually means a front tire needs it.

22s are pretty nice to look but are worthless for driving. Those are very big hoops with no support on the backside and as such go out of round easily. Plus your suspension is doing all the work and there is no tire cushion. The smaller the hoop the stronger the rim is to deflect potential damages and going out of round.