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I don't know what's going on? There's a squeaking sound coming every time I turn my steering even slightly either left or right. My steering is normal with no stiffness at all, the power steering fluid is at the normal level. It's sounds like a squeaky door hinge. Maybe something needs to lubed or something. It has been really could here the past couple of days (near or below zero) with new snow, don't know if that plays into it all? Car is out of warranty with around 70k miles 4matic. Oh, before I forget the power steering was flush about a month ago. Anyone else have this issue or any advice on what it could be please chime in... Trying to avoid a costly trip to dealership especially if it's something simple as lubricating a part that I can do myself.
My 2010 S550 with 30kmiles started doing the same squeaking noise when steering. seems to happen when it's cold. Took it to dealership but could not find anything wrong. Sucks.
Not sure if this is the reason but used to occur on my old vehicle too. Because of the colder weather the material between the steering wheel and the mount would rub and cause the noice to occur. It will go away when the weather/car warms up but it's most likely caused by the materials rubbing together as the steering wheel turns.
^ I think you may be correct... Today the weather is near 50 degrees and no squeaking at all. Just can't stand a sound like that coming from such an expensive car. So I guess we'll see what happens once the temp. drops again? If so, it's all to the dealership.
^ I think you may be correct... Today the weather is near 50 degrees and no squeaking at all. Just can't stand a sound like that coming from such an expensive car. So I guess we'll see what happens once the temp. drops again? If so, it's all to the dealership.
The problem is friction, squeaky noise does not need changing part. (If the noise is just like rubbing plastic material under pressure especially close to end part of steering wheel's tour)
The problem is about the steering gear. NO NEED TO BE CHANGED. There is a rod btw the wheel and steering gear and a plastic cover to protect it from dust and water (not the axis).
Open it, you will see a rod under it and an O ring made of plastic surrounding it. GREASE IT. That's it..
I will put the picture for you to see.. The red arrows show the start and end point of plastic cover, and blue one shows the place TO BE OILED.
I just had this issue pop up on my passenger side today and I thought I had a bad ball joint or tie rod end. It squeaks really loud and you even hear it squeak when you getting out of the car or even from the vibration of the door closing. It is colder than usual so I hope this is the issue. I will look for that thing to oil tomorow as well.
The steering shaft boot/seal at the firewall is usually the culprit. Be careful not to tear it when lubing it as it will turn into a 6 hour job to replace it.
My noise seems to be coming directly from the passenger wheel. It also squeaks when I push the car up and down so I am thinking it may be somthing else.
My noise seems to be coming directly from the passenger wheel. It also squeaks when I push the car up and down so I am thinking it may be somthing else.
My noise seems to be coming directly from the passenger wheel. It also squeaks when I push the car up and down so I am thinking it may be somthing else.
What did you find the issue was? My car is doing the same exact thing but on the drivers side.
I was told my lower control arm bushing was torn and the noise was from the balljoint. The whole lower control arm needs to be replaced but it's not really an expensive part.
The problem is friction, squeaky noise does not need changing part. (If the noise is just like rubbing plastic material under pressure especially close to end part of steering wheel's tour)
The problem is about the steering gear. NO NEED TO BE CHANGED. There is a rod btw the wheel and steering gear and a plastic cover to protect it from dust and water (not the axis).
Open it, you will see a rod under it and an O ring made of plastic surrounding it. GREASE IT. That's it..
I will put the picture for you to see.. The red arrows show the start and end point of plastic cover, and blue one shows the place TO BE OILED.
2007 S600, 2007 Chrysler 300 SRT8, 2000 C5 Corvette, 2017 Mustang GT, 2023 300C, and a 2019 Lincoln
The heavy weight of the car makes the lower control arm bushings and ball joints wear resulting in a squeaky ride. I typically replace my lower control arms every 40K miles. Keeps the car running really smooth and tight.
I got to replace front suspension arms in my 221 car annually. 20-30,000 miles and ball joints were squeaky sloppy worn out.
This is another thing MB got right in the 222 cars.
I'm wondering what specific ball joint puller everyone uses for the front torque and cross strut removal. The manual for my W204 shows the same 221589003300 puller used for removal. They seem to cost over $200 which is a bit much. Or is everyone using the MB tools?
In the manual there is a note about the ball joint design:
Guess it only applies if working on the suspension and needing to remove and reinstall the control arm.
OP your local MB dealer may not stock the tool but they tend to be two days away if you are close to a parts hub.
The hour of labor you are not paying at the dealership pays for that tool and now you own it. An hour pays to replace ONE outer tie rod on a good day. More for ball joints.
The tool pictured above is the right way to do it. The mobile tool dealers all offer a similar tool. Snap-On, Matco, Cornwell, MAC. The MB tool works best.
Where the suspension upright is steel one can beat on it with a BFH with the nut removed to get the ballpoint/tie rod end to pop out but the upright will pay for it if you are not skilled with hammer blows.
Last edited by JohnLane; Oct 26, 2025 at 03:57 PM.
A photo I came across of the MB ball joint puller says Klann on it. I read Klann is now Gedore.
I have a tool for the rear spring control arm bushing in the wheel carrier from Gedore. The W221 and the W204 use the same tool but the W221 uses one tool for removal/install and the W204 uses two tools, one for removal then another for install. But the Gedore tool is made specifically to be able to remove and install. Its great because it costs the same as one tool and does both jobs.
Wonder if the current MB ball joint tool is a Gedore product? Im not finding any current photos of it.
The W204 has another bushing in the rear wheel carrier for the thrust arm and the only tool I could find is the MB tool so was stuck buying it. Theres no other stampings on it for who made it. The Gedore branded bushing tool seems made better in my opinion.
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