Class Action for Vibration problems?
Dealer, then tireshop keep balancing the wheels, and alignment, and still couldnt fix it. Both told me that the alignment and balance reading were good. All bushing and steering rack were checked and checked, all found to be 10/10 condition.
Took it to pro shop, they used road-force balancing machine (Hunter 9700) and
they told me that the rims werent perfectly round, and that triiger vibration. Sent the rims to Specialty shop to make them round again. Notice that no amount of tire replacement, alignment, or balance can address this type of problem. Funny that balance machine at dealer and tireshop couldnt detect this problem.
Got the rims back, mounted and installed, no more vibration. Car run smooth and stable at all speed. Cost total was 250 bucks.
I guess the car was too sensitive to wheels imperfection
Last edited by zam2000; Apr 18, 2013 at 07:16 PM.
(LI00.90-P-050323 – 221 except 4MATIC, steering wheel vibrations/shimmy @ highway speeds. Vibration caused by wheel/tire balance/uniformity; torque strut bushing; or steering rack (vehicles with EHPS up to VIN A351230))
Still the vibrations won't go away. It is sad that one gets a cushier ride from a 15K Hyundai than from a $100K S-Class. The service managers have let it slip out that there is a manufacturing defect that MBUSA has not acknowledged. Just search the web and see the tales of woes from people who thought that acquiring a Mercedes S-class should be a dream of luxury driving and not one of having one's insides turn from excessive steering vibration and front shimmy while driving.
My brand new S400 has spent more time in the dealership that in my house. Everything has been done without a solution. Only thing that has happened is a change in what speeds the vibrations start.
What should be our recourse to get Mercedes to acknowledge this problem and deal with it appropriately. Should we recourse to a class action lawsuit? This has been the only way to get a reaction from MBUSA
I am frustrated by my experience. Do you still have the vibration problem? What do you think?


you might wanna explain properly in a new thread exactly what kind of vibes you are having and the type of work done to rectify it.




The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Pretty frustrating as my m3 and m5 with 150k miles each have the tightest steering and go straight without vibration. At least I get to use a brand new ml350 loaner with 800 miles on it.....
I had them install Power Wheels Pro Style 815 rims (20s staggered) with michelin pilot super sports. The vibration is still there. The dealer used a road force balance machine and the wheels/tires seemed perfect, go figure. The dealer decided to throw on another set of oem 19's from another car, and guess what - no vibration! So, clearly the problem seems to be aftermarket rims or wheels, but the problem isnt detected on the road force balance machine. Any suggestions? The dealer replaced suspension bushings and my steering rack. My wheel bearings are fine.
I had them install Power Wheels Pro Style 815 rims (20s staggered) with michelin pilot super sports. The vibration is still there. The dealer used a road force balance machine and the wheels/tires seemed perfect, go figure. The dealer decided to throw on another set of oem 19's from another car, and guess what - no vibration! So, clearly the problem seems to be aftermarket rims or wheels, but the problem isnt detected on the road force balance machine. Any suggestions? The dealer replaced suspension bushings and my steering rack. My wheel bearings are fine.
When they did the road force balance did they check for run-out? It's not normally a part of the balancing but they can measure for it if you ask. It's a vertical variance in the shape of the wheel, like a bend or a warp. There should be none or very little. Run out can cause vibration problems in an otherwise balanced wheel.
The 815's manufacturer shows a 35mm offset in one set of specs, and 45mm in another. The low offset wheels can cause problems. 45mm shouldn't. Verify yours are 45mm. The SuperSports are great tires and should ride like glass on the right rims.
If those two issues check out and you're still having problems, a set of OEM take offs is your next step. Anything from a W221, a CL or 2008 and up C Class will be a perfect fit.
The dealer will check run-out and offset today. I'm actually hoping there is a problem with one of those. I need closure.....
True it's 8mm on one wheel, but on the front suspension it's a total of 16mm difference. I rolled the dice myself on a set of aftermarket wheels with a 32mm offset and ended up having to dump them over vibration problems. OEM wheels were an immediate cure.
Since the wheel vendor advertised the fitment as 45mm and sent you 35mm they really should swap them out for you. Otherwise I'd buy a set of 44-46mm 20' wheels and sell the 815's on EBay. They're a correct fit on an E Class and variants. S Class have an unusually high offset so it can be a challenge finding wheels but they're out there.
I ran a set of replica 19"'s with the same face as the 815's (no diamond cut, machined on all facets) in 45mm that cost me $700 and ran perfectly true. The last time I had tires mounted one of those rims took zero weight. The tech took a cell phone pic of it because it was so unusual.
Last edited by Mike5215; Apr 2, 2014 at 12:33 PM.
Where did you get the replica 19s?
Where did you get the replica 19s?
I think you already have your answer...the current replica wheels have to go either way. The issue is the least financially painful way to get a good set of good looking wheels to replace them.
The 19's were a model called MB-527. Several Ebay vendors sell them. You're looking for an S65 AMG replica wheel. It'll probably have a 45mm offset since the knockoffs can't be an exact duplicate.
Here's a 20" staggered S63 replica set in the correct configuration and a 45mm offset for $700: (Link to the Ebay listing below the pic) Vendor has been around awhile.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-GUNMETAL-...00648c&vxp=mtr
I currently run a set of OEM S63 20's and I like the look, but they're a little less aggressive than the S65 style.
Last edited by Mike5215; Apr 2, 2014 at 03:01 PM.



The safest route for me has been to stick to OEM wheels and tires in the correct sizes and offset, avoid dropping (lowering), and keep the alignment in check. I have had good luck with replica wheels as long as the offsets were right. I like the replicas because they look good (and authentic down to the "AMG" stamp) and for $700 a set if I curb them it isn't heart breaking.
The wheels looked so authentic that when I took the car to MB for service the tech kept trying to use the MB pilot tool (goes in those little holes on the spokes) and couldn't understand why it didn't fit.
Looks good rides ok (no high speed vibration) but my tire guy is adamant that they go back -"this is no Honda"
Please advise - I am way outside my area of expertise.
Thank you very much
Looks good rides ok (no high speed vibration) but my tire guy is adamant that they go back -"this is no Honda"
Please advise - I am way outside my area of expertise.
Thank you very much
I'd get the car on a highway and run it up to 80. If you can release your grip on the steering wheel and it doesn't shake I'd keep 'em.
The wheels looked so authentic that when I took the car to MB for service the tech kept trying to use the MB pilot tool (goes in those little holes on the spokes) and couldn't understand why it didn't fit.
If you like the look, grab those replicas. They're quire a bit less than I'd want for the OEM versions were I to sell them.


