Anyone know if this is a pretty simple procedure do to without a mechanic involved?

I read on here that it is doable on a W210 pretty easily, but I wouldn't be surprised in you need some special tool or access to the star computers to do it right. Only info on here about it and the w221 are owners who have had theirs done at the dealer.

If I order the part online, I figure I can just pull down the wheel well lining undo a couple hoses and clips and put the new one in.

Has anyone done it?

 

Hi there,

I just replaced mine this past weekend. I did not take pictures, but it was pretty simple procedure and definitely does not require a mechanic. You do need both the newly designed canister and the new wiring harness.

I've outlined the procedure below, with the biggest challenge being to remove the lower vent hose...see below for details.

Please follow all normal safety procedures associated with jacking the car up and chocking the wheels, etc. Also may want to have a fire extinguisher handy, just in case. There was no strong fuel smell or anything, but better safe than sorry.


1) Remove the right rear wheel (just below the filler neck)
2) Canister is directly behind the wheel well inside cover on the left hand side



3) Remove the plastic rivet on the left bottom of the liner (Item 7)
4) Remove the plastic 10mm nut about half way up the liner (Item 8)
5) Remove the left most nut from the inner cover (Item 10)
6) Pull the inner cover away (i just tucked it behind the liner)
7) Pull the fender liner back and tuck it behind the brake rotor
8) Remove two 10mm nuts and one 10mm screw that hold the canister in place (Pull the canister toward you so you get better access to the hoses)
9) Remove the wiring connected to the shut-off valve and install new wiring harness
10) Remove upper vent hose by pressing the release buttons on either side of the hose
11) Remove the lower vent hose by removing the single ear hose clamp (see picture below)


Removing this clamp was the hardest part...I had to insert a skinny tool into the small gap in the hose clamp, with a slight upward pressure and use a pair of channel locks to tighten enough to unclip it. Re-installing the new vent hose was just as hard, as you tighten the clamp and hope it clicks into place. Careful not to bend the clamp,otherwise you may need to replace it.

The new wiring harness interconnects the old wiring to the new canister, and all of the old hoses reconnect pretty easily. Once reconnected, reinstall in reverse and close up.

I did the job myself, and spent a total of 1hr 15 minutes.

Feel free to PM me with any questions.

Hope this is helpful.

 

Great post ! Many thanks for that Vrathore!

 

Thank you for taking the time to post this, it will definitely come in handy probably not just for me. Did you get you parts from the dealer or online? Hopefully the harness isn't too much as the new canister is already $500

Regarding the clamp, I'm thinking I'll just replace with conventional hose clamps.

 

Bought canister and harness from parts.com see below:
Note, they originally quoted 59.99 for shipping but only charged $22 for shipping (still cheaper than CA tax)

Items Ordered:

Parts
221-470-06-59 Activated Charcoal Filter
Price: $388.80
Tax: $0.00
Qty: 1

211-440-01-34 Cable Harness
Price: $11.10
Tax: $0.00
Qty: 1

Waaay cheaper than dealer...$580 for canister alone.


Vinay

 

Parts isn't showing the harness anymore... Any info on a possible phase out?

 

Just pull down the wheel well and unhook the line going into the canister from the top of the gas tank, worked like a charm.

 

Why do you need to replace Charcoal Canister to begin with? Thanks in advance.

 

It needs replacement or disconnection when its impossible to put fuel in the tank ,because venting is clogged throught the charcoal cannister,afaik.

 

I think it was a poor design, as the canister has been redesigned. But I've also heard that it could be caused from overfilling the fuel tank, and I need to stop at the first click.

The problem for me got progressively worse as I was filling slower and slower, to the point that it once overflowed and never shut off like it was suppose to. After that, I was toast. I had to replace the canister, or spend 15 minutes filling the tank, at this one gas station near my office. Otherwise it was a crapshoot as to whether or not I would be able to fill the tank.

And now...I never overfill the tank. Lesson learned.

 

Hi, this is a great post.
Q: Can charcoal canister be fixed ? Thought that's only gas in the charcoal canister.

Thinking to air flush then, bake the canister under the sun, heat gun, or in oven (low temperature ) for several hours. If gas evaporated I guess the unit should be re-lived.

Will this work ? I'll give it a try when I have the issue.

 

Are you thinking 07-09 is only effected?

 

better to wake this post up as opposed to start a new one. I have read numerous posts online and seen a few videos on cleaning the charcoal canister with compressed/pressurized air at 294kpa. Others online use carb cleaner to supposedly dissolve the carbon dirt/grime which causes the canister to get clogged. It makes sense to me theoretically. And despite tons of folks doing it on other cars, am yet to see anyone on here suggest or attempt it. Wondering if anyone has tried this at all?
Don't see a reason to shed almost $400 on this part if it can be cleaned.

 

Hi, I did this to my 2007 S550 last weekend. Super easy, www.autohausaz.com was by far the cheapest source for the canister, under $300 with free shipping and the wiring harness adapter too. I could barely put fuel in when I recently bought the car and this cured it. Don't try to reuse the hose clamp on the bottom hose, have a new clamp with a screw to use. Just cut the factory crimped-on clamp. The whole job start to finish, including jacking the car up and removing the wheel was 90 minutes, tops.


You don't have to "get under" the car to do it. I did use the factory jack, the factory wheel chock in front of the opposite front wheel, and my hydraulic jack as a second point of support under the car. I put two cinderblocks underneath in case all else failed, to keep the car from landing all the way on the ground. I don't like small spaces or getting under a car, but this wasn't like that at all. You're just reaching into the wheel well after the liner is removed. Easy to see and reach the canister.

 

Yuo don't have to replace it. Just cleanup and it works like new again. https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...ml#post6224606

 

I'm getting error code 0954 - Mechanical defect or component Y58/4 (Activated charcoal canister shut-off valve) permanently closed (P2422)

I'm gonna take the canister out, clean the valve and hopefully it will resolve the issue

 

If your going to be anywhere near Vancouver, Wa. I can lend you the tool that uncrimps that clamp, and the tool to put a new one on. Also have the .5" clamps.

 

Gentlemen, I would try the EVAP canister vent valve before going for the Canister itself.
2007 GL450 75k
I used to have the Gas cap open message that would lead to Check Engine light.
I added an extra O ring to the gas cap and press it hard to shut each time I filled gas.
Escaped the Gas cap open message for about a year.
Now the check engine came on by itself.
I pulled the code with an OBD scanner.
Came out with P0455.
Trying to check the EVAP canister vent valve behind the Rear Passenger wheel.

Here is what I found. I will try it this weekend.
Hope this helps the rest of us who has the same issues.

http://workshop-manuals.com/mercedes...ion/page_6024/

http://workshop-manuals.com/mercedes...ion/page_6025/

 

Ah so this is why my car is a PIA to put gas in at times. I figured it was a vent issue. Of course in typical Mercedes fashion it has to be way more complicated then it has to be.

 

Not necessarily. Gas nozzles must adhere to a specification for min/max length and there can be different length nozzles at the same gas station. I refill at the exact same one almost every time and half the nozzles click off constantly. Due to regulations, they are very sensitive to back pressure and length apparently plays a big role.

 

I filled it up yesterday at a Sunocco without issue. Prior I was filling up at the same spot for a while. Maybe it is their pumps.

 

Probably true. I asked about replacing the charcoal canister a while back and my mechanic suggested it was probably more of a gas station issue and he said to use the same pumps that worked in the past. It would be hit or miss at different gas stations. I noticed that I would have trouble with pumps where the hose was recently replaced with a new fuel filler nozzle. Now I just use the same pump island at the Costco Gast station I frequent and have has no issues since.

 

Thanks vrathore, this worked for me. I too had gas pump switch constantly stopping flow into gas tank. It was progressively getting worse to the extent I was concerned I might have serious fill up issues. Ordered parts online for $455 from parts.com (included shipping). Took me about 2 hours from start to finish, less than the time it would be to drop off/pickup the car at the dealer. Plus saved about $500. I bought 10mm-14mm hose clamps on Amazon for 7$. I recommend you have a spare hose clamp, just in case you have an issue with the installed clamp, or make sure you have a spare car available for trip to auto-store, if needed. vrathore's details are accurate!!

 

My car is at the dealer being serviced. One of the items that is being repaired is the replacement of the charcoal canister. It's about a $1000 dollars at the dealer. When I get the car back I will break down the invoice as I am having a couple of things done.

 

Do you know who else would sell a 2002 MBZ E320 W210 Charcoal vapor canister. It appears parts.com no longer accept new orders - not sure why.

Thanks.

Bill