face lift s65 question...issue with drl's
#1
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sl500
face lift s65 question...issue with drl's
So I got the 65 front fitted and installed. The drl's and kit were supplied via suvneer. We hooked them up directly to the side marker lights that no longer exist in the new bumper.
The problem is that when the car comes on, the drl's flash 4 or 5 times at about the speed of the hazard lights would normally go and then go off and stay off.
I have been recommended by Gary to install some load resistors to rectify the voltage issues. I picked up a set and plan on installing tomorrow.
My question is has anyone had to do this before? While I'm optimistic about the fix, I do pick up the car tomorrow and want to make sure I get this fixed as I paid good money for the paint and install. If this doesnt work i dont know what else to do other than tie into the fogs. The car is an 07 600...thanks
The problem is that when the car comes on, the drl's flash 4 or 5 times at about the speed of the hazard lights would normally go and then go off and stay off.
I have been recommended by Gary to install some load resistors to rectify the voltage issues. I picked up a set and plan on installing tomorrow.
My question is has anyone had to do this before? While I'm optimistic about the fix, I do pick up the car tomorrow and want to make sure I get this fixed as I paid good money for the paint and install. If this doesnt work i dont know what else to do other than tie into the fogs. The car is an 07 600...thanks
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2008 S63
My symptoms are passenger side flickering a few times and then shutting off and driver side will not power on at all. Do you know if these should be connected to the parking lights?
#7
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2015 S550
I believe Gary sells the S63 facelift kit, not the S65. When I spoke with him several months ago about his kit, he said that the DRL bar plugs directly into the side marker lights and that no resistors are needed. He said that the only time you might need resistors is if you were trying to run them to your stock fog light harness, which could also entail some wire splicing.
I'm interested in finding out what works for you, and what you decide to do with your stock fog lights. Gary mentioned leaving the bulbs in so that no warning lights are triggered....and tucking them behind the bumper, but I find this to be less than ideal.
To me, the ideal situation would be to somehow run the DRL bar to the same circuit that allows the DRL's on our cars in the headlights. Then he could add the side markers in his bumper without any modification. Then we'd need some low heat resistors to plug into the fog light socket.
I'm interested in finding out what works for you, and what you decide to do with your stock fog lights. Gary mentioned leaving the bulbs in so that no warning lights are triggered....and tucking them behind the bumper, but I find this to be less than ideal.
To me, the ideal situation would be to somehow run the DRL bar to the same circuit that allows the DRL's on our cars in the headlights. Then he could add the side markers in his bumper without any modification. Then we'd need some low heat resistors to plug into the fog light socket.
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#8
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S63 and S65 have the same body kit.
I didn't use the foglights, because I don't want to manually switch them on. Outside of the US there isn't side-markers. I got them wired to ignition live.
I didn't even bother putting bulbs into the foglight bulb holders. The warning doesn't come on unless you manually try to switch on foglights.
Engine on, DRL on.
I didn't use the foglights, because I don't want to manually switch them on. Outside of the US there isn't side-markers. I got them wired to ignition live.
I didn't even bother putting bulbs into the foglight bulb holders. The warning doesn't come on unless you manually try to switch on foglights.
Engine on, DRL on.
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White S63 AMG W/Designo Interior
Using this drl relay with auto on and off works great...mounted next to battery since engine bay is wayyy to hot...right by front windshield battery i mounted
#11
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I did the hole conversion so no probs with flickering here. But VERY often they weld the Cables to the wrong conector. So + is on - and - is on +. Just change that and they usaly work fine. This happened all the times I done this kit.