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So I've seen several threads that essentially lead to this but, no detailed repair.
You will only need a #20 & #25 torx head screwdriver.
(NOTE) you may have a bad motor but this is a common fix for many.
All controls work properly, but the air doesn't circulate through the vents.
Had this happen 1 out of 5 times I drove the car. You may hit a bump and cause it to start working again. Also, you may slap the bottom of the dash on the passenger side below the glove compartment. If this causes yours to work, chances are, here's what to do:
Remove the panel below the glove compartment. (2 #25 torx head screws) And pull it toward you
Just twist the footwell light assy 1/4 turn counter clockwise to remove it from the panel. It's easier than unplugging. (FYI turn off your door light switch with the button by the rear view mirror)
Next, unplug the harness and remove the 5 #20 torx head screws on the blower motor. there are three along the kick panel side, and two toward the center of the car.
Here's what you will pull out and clean. I used a shop vac for heavy stuff first then used a blower nozzle with my air compressor to get the brush dust from inside the electric motor in the center of the squirrel cages. (wear a dust mask and do this outside) Some have used compressed air from a can.
For good measure, you may want to remove the plastic screen above the motor while you're this far along. It may have trash above it. 4 #20 torx screws.
hey guys,
My climate control stops working from time to time i.e a/c, heat and fan don't turn on when activated via command because of the blown fuse (#50 in engine bay (15amp). Happened like once every 3months but it got worse and as of this week i have had to change the fuse about 5 times in 3days. Mechanic suggests problem is not a short in the wiring but rather one of two things:
1, Either cabin filter is dirty and causing restricted air flow which in turn causes the blower to work harder and as such request more power and frying the fuse in the process
OR
2, blower motor having aged is pulling too much current intermittently and causing the fuse to fry.
I plan on cleaning/changing the cabin filter tomorrow but would also like to know if this is the same motor that needs to be replaced if the #50 15amp fuse in engine bay keeps popping periodically thereby causing the fan (a/c and heat) not to work? I would like to DIY this if that is the motor to change.
Last edited by just1time; Dec 13, 2015 at 02:56 PM.
2009 S550 AMG sport pckg. 2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrewcab
Yup exact same procedure. Mine happened at the worst possible time too last year on the expressway. My windows were so fogged youd think cheech and chong were in it lol. Did you go dealer? I think it was 343 that i paid at mine
brent5c thanks for the write up, my blower would not work until driving for about 10-20 minutes in the mornings, however after going through this fix the blower is functioning 100%, I think this fix works for older cars that have a lot of gunk stuck in the blower.
I had this problem awhile back as well and I ended up getting a can of air an electronic contact cleaner that I had in the house and sprayed the motor with air. I was so surprised how much dust, dirt, and grime built up in the inside of the copper coils. Next, I took the electronic contact cleaner and hosed the coil and the connection points to hopefully remove all the dirt. Washed the place is housing and installed it again and it works flawless now. I'm sure I'll eventually have to get a new one but this has worked for over an year now and still going strong.
So I've seen several threads that essentially lead to this but, no detailed repair.
You will only need a #20 & #25 torx head screwdriver.
(NOTE) you may have a bad motor but this is a common fix for many.
All controls work properly, but the air doesn't circulate through the vents.
Had this happen 1 out of 5 times I drove the car. You may hit a bump and cause it to start working again. Also, you may slap the bottom of the dash on the passenger side below the glove compartment. If this causes yours to work, chances are, here's what to do:
Remove the panel below the glove compartment. (2 #25 torx head screws) And pull it toward you
Just twist the footwell light assy 1/4 turn counter clockwise to remove it from the panel. It's easier than unplugging. (FYI turn off your door light switch with the button by the rear view mirror)
Next, unplug the harness and remove the 5 #20 torx head screws on the blower motor. there are three along the kick panel side, and two toward the center of the car.
Here's what you will pull out and clean. I used a shop vac for heavy stuff first then used a blower nozzle with my air compressor to get the brush dust from inside the electric motor in the center of the squirrel cages. (wear a dust mask and do this outside) Some have used compressed air from a can.
For good measure, you may want to remove the plastic screen above the motor while you're this far along. It may have trash above it. 4 #20 torx screws.
I just wanted to say thanks man. Not sure how many people have used this or not but it was super helpful to me. For anyone else looking to do it, definitely pull the carpet down to get the back screws. I changed mine but these steps are obviously exactly the same. Thanks again! Anyone who needs help just reply and I’ll offer what I can as well.
Yes I just replaced mine. The old one was corroded and had exposed motor components. The new one has shielding to protect these areas. A couple of other tips:
-put a blanket down over the area to catch any screws that drop out. I had to remove the front protective wiring bracket to retrieve 2 screws that fell behind there.
-lightly tape the #20 torx screws to the screwdriver end to keep them in place while fishing around to find the holes during reinstallation.
Last edited by mdwatson1957; Oct 23, 2018 at 10:15 AM.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
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