Looking to buy 2010 S550 with High milage, risky?
I have my eyes on a 2010 S550 with about 80k Miles. The car is in immaculate condition. I am just worried of high repair costs that are heading my way. Is this particular year/model known for having problems? Any owners out there that can give me some feedback?? Anything would help, thank you!
I have my eyes on a 2010 S550 with about 80k Miles. The car is in immaculate condition. I am just worried of high repair costs that are heading my way. Is this particular year/model known for having problems? Any owners out there that can give me some feedback?? Anything would help, thank you!
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Yeah, and 80k to 100k is prime Airmatic failure turf. Plus plans change and you may want to hold onto it past 100k. I believe 2012's are still CPO, not sure what they're going for but great cars with the TTV8 engine. CPO extra warranty gives you a total of three years from purchase and unlimited miles for another $4500, so if you can find one with higher than average miles (which drops the price) you can drive it worry free for three years.
This of course somewhat depends on how the last 80k miles on it now were accumulated. In essence, the history and past maintenance of the car matters.
I had a 2000 S500, 2003 S55 AMG and now a 2007 S65 AMG and yes they do have there quirks and issues but they are fantastic well built automobiles! I also did NOT have or buy a warranty on any of these cars.
That being said I am mentally prepared to pay out cash if needed to repair my MB but I am cool with that. I LOVE my car and I am so happy I finally have my dream car and couldn't be happier!
Good luck man.
Johan
I had a 2000 S500, 2003 S55 AMG and now a 2007 S65 AMG and yes they do have there quirks and issues but they are fantastic well built automobiles! I also did NOT have or buy a warranty on any of these cars.
That being said I am mentally prepared to pay out cash if needed to repair my MB but I am cool with that. I LOVE my car and I am so happy I finally have my dream car and couldn't be happier!
Good luck man.
Johan
Writing it all down makes it look like the cars were nightmares but just the opposite. I love them even when they are misbehaving. I would have loved them a LOT less if I was paying out for those repairs though.
What options does the car have and what's the color combo? Also does it have pano, amg sport package etc?
Last edited by wilassasin; Nov 15, 2015 at 02:06 PM.



I had a 2000 S500, 2003 S55 AMG and now a 2007 S65 AMG and yes they do have there quirks and issues but they are fantastic well built automobiles! I also did NOT have or buy a warranty on any of these cars.
That being said I am mentally prepared to pay out cash if needed to repair my MB but I am cool with that. I LOVE my car and I am so happy I finally have my dream car and couldn't be happier!
Good luck man.
Johan
Last edited by KNBS550; Nov 15, 2015 at 02:14 PM.
Now your $30,000 car needs a $6,000 transmission. You have to spend the money...the car is worthless without a transmission...and now you're into the $30,000 car for $36,000. It's not worth any more money just because it has a rebuilt tranny. If anything it's worth less.
While you're (potentially) putting $5000 a year into the car in repairs that add nothing to the value, it's also continuing to depreciate. If you keep it for three years, it will again depreciate by half. The real risk with these cars is how quickly you can get upside down in value vs investment.
For example, the 2006 S500. In 2011 that car was worth about $18k. It was worth $18k the day before the tranny went. It was worth $18k after I paid the shop $6000 and drove it home. It would have been worth it's weight in salvage and scrap metal had I not repaired it. Bad spot to find yourself in whether you have $6,000 laying around or not.
I say if you have the cash for a $30,000 car and $15,000 in potential repairs, ($45,000) then you easily have the $40,000 to spend on a nicer, fresher car with a CPO warranty and little potential downside.
It seems like there are two camps: the guys with warranties and the guys without warranties who haven't had to pay out of pocket for a major repair. Yet.
You never hear the CPO guys *****ing about how worthless or pointless the warranty was. Depending on the company most 3rd party warranty guys aren't complaining either.
You hear a lot of complaining from the other guys when a four figure repair pops up out of the blue.
You'll see them on the forum every day, begging for help to fix something cheaply because they can't afford to fix it right, and they really thought their $30,000 S Class was going to be more reliable because Mercedes built it.
I guess the potential downside is you pay more for the warranty than the warranty pays out in repairs, but for me at least over three S Class in ten years that hasn't been the case.
Last edited by Mike5215; Nov 15, 2015 at 05:01 PM.
For that reason 2010 + is generally more desirable pound for pound. In terms of reliability, all years have the potential to suck. Not all do, but many will.
I strongly agree with Dave. Find the nicest example of a CPO S Class you can afford. Add $4400 to the negotiated price to buy two years additional CPO (3 years total). Trade the car in three years, and enjoy it completely worry free the whole time.
Last edited by Mike5215; Nov 15, 2015 at 05:05 PM.




I've gone the CPO route for some cars and "self-insured" on others. The tendency is that if you have a warranty, you agitate to have anything that even may be an issue addressed. On an Audi that I had they replaced mechatronics, then the torque converter as it "failed" immediately after (and due to) them messing with the transmission. The occasional shifting issue was just a feature of the car.
My experiences with aftermarket warranties have all been bad. One was a fidelity warranty that was transferred to me and repairs were rejected as wear items. The other was also transferred to me (back in the 90s)and they required a maintainance history which was incomplete and the claim was rejected.
I agree that the CPO route ensures a predictable cost. You are ignoring depreciation tradeoff as it relates to TCO (total cost of ownership).
So let's model this 2010 S550 80k miles $30k 36 months ownership, 10k miles per year. Let's assume the following was done:
Trans fluid change x 2 40k and 80k
Brakes rotors front/rear @ 60k
Motor, trans mounts done recently.
Serpentine belt already replaced.
New tires.
No warranty, sales tax 8%.
Base cost 30,000
Tax. 2400
Maintenance
Oil changes. 900 (6x 150)
Tires. 1200
Suspension. 2500 ( 1 air strut plus a control arm or so, alignment )
Other repairs 2500 ( Ac compressor/ air pump/ seat / modules/ oil leaks)
Interest cost estimate: (32,000 + 18000)/2 * 2% * 3 years = $1500
Total: $41000
Residual value : $17000
Projected Monthly cost : $666
The potential transmission repair would increase monthly costs by $166.
If you happen to not have to fix much you would save about $140 per month.
---
Let's compare the newer car with 40k miles 36 month 30k miles
Assuming new tires
Brakes refreshed as per CPO
Trans fluid changed at 40k
Base cost $44,000
Tax. $ 3520
Tires 1200
Oil. 900
Interest cost estimate (44000-24000)/2 * .02 = 2000
Copay per repair 350 ( 50* 6)
Residual value 24000
Projected cost : $30000 / 36 months = $833 month
Note that these estimates are all seat of the pants estimates and you are welcome to use real numbers instead. I think they do represent ballpark estimates of some real costs to own.
So if you fix the transmission on the high mileage car, that would have paid for the nicer newer car. If you are able to manage down the cost of repairs, the non warranty car may cost less but at almost worst case the same, or even possibly a bit more.
Either way, you are far from the TCO of owning a less expensive car, but also far from the TCO of a new 2016 S550 for the same ownership period.
You could drive down TCO by finding a well maintained, well documented similar car with lower mileage for similar cost, or negotiating that car down to $28k if possible.
My experiences with aftermarket warranties have all been bad. One was a fidelity warranty that was transferred to me and repairs were rejected as wear items. The other was also transferred to me (back in the 90s)and they required a maintainance history which was incomplete and the claim was rejected.
In my case, I was fortunate to find a policy through my credit union that has gone above and beyond with covering repairs. In the year that I've had my car, they have paid out more than 3 times what I paid for it....and I have 6 more years of coverage left. I have followed the maintenance schedule to a tee, plus I have all service records for the car since the day the original owner picked it up, so I know that there isn't any "gotcha" that can be pulled on me. But honestly, I really don't believe the prior maintenance history is an issue at all with my warranty as there aren't any clauses in the contract about it.
When purchasing an aftermarket warranty, the lower the miles, the cheaper the policy and more years of coverage you can get. This is the only way to purchase coverage once the car is out of the originally OEM warranty period or miles unless the car meets certifiable guidelines...which most higher mileage cars do not.
Bottom line, having coverage is the only thing that will give an owner piece of mind...especially if they don't have a lot of disposable cash to cover potentially very costly repairs.
I've gone the CPO route for some cars and "self-insured" on others. The tendency is that if you have a warranty, you agitate to have anything that even may be an issue addressed. On an Audi that I had they replaced mechatronics, then the torque converter as it "failed" immediately after (and due to) them messing with the transmission. The occasional shifting issue was just a feature of the car.
My experiences with aftermarket warranties have all been bad. One was a fidelity warranty that was transferred to me and repairs were rejected as wear items. The other was also transferred to me (back in the 90s)and they required a maintainance history which was incomplete and the claim was rejected.
I agree that the CPO route ensures a predictable cost. You are ignoring depreciation tradeoff as it relates to TCO (total cost of ownership).
So let's model this 2010 S550 80k miles $30k 36 months ownership, 10k miles per year. Let's assume the following was done:
Trans fluid change x 2 40k and 80k
Brakes rotors front/rear @ 60k
Motor, trans mounts done recently.
Serpentine belt already replaced.
New tires.
No warranty, sales tax 8%.
Base cost 30,000
Tax. 2400
Maintenance
Oil changes. 900 (6x 150)
Tires. 1200
Suspension. 2500 ( 1 air strut plus a control arm or so, alignment )
Other repairs 2500 ( Ac compressor/ air pump/ seat / modules/ oil leaks)
Interest cost estimate: (32,000 + 18000)/2 * 2% * 3 years = $1500
Total: $41000
Residual value : $17000
Projected Monthly cost : $666
The potential transmission repair would increase monthly costs by $166.
If you happen to not have to fix much you would save about $140 per month.
---
Let's compare the newer car with 40k miles 36 month 30k miles
Assuming new tires
Brakes refreshed as per CPO
Trans fluid changed at 40k
Base cost $44,000
Tax. $ 3520
Tires 1200
Oil. 900
Interest cost estimate (44000-24000)/2 * .02 = 2000
Copay per repair 350 ( 50* 6)
Residual value 24000
Projected cost : $30000 / 36 months = $833 month
Note that these estimates are all seat of the pants estimates and you are welcome to use real numbers instead. I think they do represent ballpark estimates of some real costs to own.
So if you fix the transmission on the high mileage car, that would have paid for the nicer newer car. If you are able to manage down the cost of repairs, the non warranty car may cost less but at almost worst case the same, or even possibly a bit more.
Either way, you are far from the TCO of owning a less expensive car, but also far from the TCO of a new 2016 S550 for the same ownership period.
You could drive down TCO by finding a well maintained, well documented similar car with lower mileage for similar cost, or negotiating that car down to $28k if possible.
I think no matter how you slice it, an S Class makes no sense as a rational decision. It's an emotional decision that your rational brain tries to justify and structure in the least stupid way possible. That's how I approach it. What's the least stupid way to buy this once $100,000 used car?




