S-Class (W221) 2007-2013: S 320 CDI, S 350, S 450, S 500, S 550, S 420 CDI, S 600

I finally bought it Fellas!

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Old 03-09-2016, 05:38 PM
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I love this thread especially because mike is probably squirming over not being entirely right and is now grasping at straws to save his over inflated ego of being the ultimate know it all. You're hilarious and sad at the same time man lol.

I mean for God sakes lol is this poor guy's effort in trying to slide one by logic and fact that big of a deal? It's like someone else mentioned that everyone is rooting and hoping the op fails so you can all say "see I told you so!", especially Mike.
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by fastlife23
I love this thread especially because mike is probably squirming over not being entirely right and is now grasping at straws to save his over inflated ego of being the ultimate know it all. You're hilarious and sad at the same time man lol.

I mean for God sakes lol is this poor guy's effort in trying to slide one by logic and fact that big of a deal? It's like someone else mentioned that everyone is rooting and hoping the op fails so you can all say "see I told you so!", especially Mike.
Well, no. I'm the guy who bothered to drive out to a shop to get a second opinion, and when aspects of that opinion differed from my own and actually benefited the OP, I didn't hesitate to post that info here. In fact, I wrote it up in the shops parking lot because it was good news for the OP and I wanted to get it to him quickly.

I actually titled the post "Good news".

I don't know WTF you're babbling about.
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by fastlife23
I love this thread especially because mike is probably squirming over not being entirely right and is now grasping at straws to save his over inflated ego of being the ultimate know it all. You're hilarious and sad at the same time man lol.

I mean for God sakes lol is this poor guy's effort in trying to slide one by logic and fact that big of a deal? It's like someone else mentioned that everyone is rooting and hoping the op fails so you can all say "see I told you so!", especially Mike.
I don't think Mike is squirming at all. He's been trying to set expectations and is trying to put a positive spin on the situation based on what his friend has told him. He's absolutely right in that there is no way to know how bad the damage is until the car is measured and pulled straight. It may still have damage to the frame rails that would require the compressed sections to be cut out and replaced. If Mike's estimate is right about the time on the rack, the OP is likely looking at no more than $1000-1500 to have the car measured and pulled, at which point he'll know how much more he's looking at for remaining repairs. Since he's into it for $12k so far, I guess another $1k isn't going to kill him to know how bad it really is. But I do know that he should not be attempting the body work himself as there is no way he'd get that done right. If this were some old Civic, why not. But don't try it on a car like this.
Old 03-09-2016, 05:59 PM
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I am both hilarious and sad though. He nailed that part with his keen analytical mind.
Old 03-09-2016, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike5215
I am both hilarious and sad though. He nailed that part with his keen analytical mind.
Yes sir....you are a mystery wrapped in a riddle. You are the true definition of an enigma.
Old 03-09-2016, 06:09 PM
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What Winston Churchill once said I believes sums up the OP best: "Russia is a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma." Well, the OP is Russian.
Old 03-09-2016, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW68
Yes sir....you are a mystery wrapped in a riddle. You are the true definition of an enigma.
No no no. I'm an egotistical a-hole who went out of my way to possibly prove myself wrong and then post how I was wrong on the Internet.

Took 40 minutes out of my morning. If I had a job I would have been late to it.
Old 03-09-2016, 06:13 PM
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Oh ok I'll just bother to forget the 99 out of 100 posts where you were being condescending and a big know it all to the op.

Glad you finally accepted you were wrong though.

"Keen analytical mind" lol ok just call em like I see them i guess :up:
Old 03-09-2016, 06:14 PM
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Lol the fact you took 40 minutes out of you day to go do that speak volumes about how serious you took this. Again sad
Old 03-09-2016, 06:15 PM
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Lmao look at you man you're so bothered by this. This is great
Old 03-09-2016, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike5215
No no no. I'm an egotistical a-hole who went out of my way to possibly prove myself wrong and then post how I was wrong on the Internet.

Took 40 minutes out of my morning. If I had a job I would have been late to it.
Well at least you didn't go out of your way to prove the OP's self-proclaimed perfectionism through a rubber mallet and $1000 budget right.
Old 03-09-2016, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by fastlife23
Oh ok I'll just bother to forget the 99 out of 100 posts where you were being condescending and a big know it all to the op.

Glad you finally accepted you were wrong though.

"Keen analytical mind" lol ok just call em like I see them i guess :up:
Yes, I was wrong. You don't have a keen analytical mind. People with keen minds can perceive sarcasm.
Old 03-09-2016, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike5215
Although the top part of the rear panel (what you're calling the lip) is out of spec, the heaviest damage will be on the bottom half where it got stoved in and pushed the bottom of the quarters in. It'll be hard to estimate the other repairs until the pull is done. A typical pull would allow two hours for the car to be set up on the rack itself and measured, and I'd put 6 hours time for the pull itself. So figure 8 hours x the going body labor rate. May need a couple hours additional.
So by comrade costs I'm estimating less then $400 for the entire pull.

How much are you thinking the lowest price will be on the quarters once the pull is complete?
Old 03-09-2016, 06:52 PM
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LOL, you guys are awesome!
Old 03-09-2016, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW68
Well at least you didn't go out of your way to prove the OP's self-proclaimed perfectionism through a rubber mallet and $1000 budget right.
Okay, Fastlife smoked me out so I'm just gonna come clean. When I saw this thread, I went to a loan shark and borrowed $50,000 at 50% plus the Vig see.

Then I made book on a bet for the whole fifty at ten to one that the car was unrepairable. So now I don't have the juice on the loan this week, and the loan shark is going to kill me. So yeah, my life literally depends on me being right.
Old 03-09-2016, 07:00 PM
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Old 03-09-2016, 07:03 PM
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This is SERIOUS guys. This morning someone left a decapitated bird on my porch. It was probably the cat but you never know.
Old 03-09-2016, 07:04 PM
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Old 03-09-2016, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mercedesbenzs55
THAT'S VINNIE "THE PEARL" LANGOSTINO. He's the cat I borrowed the fifty large from. I am screwed.
Old 03-09-2016, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mercedesbenzs55
So by comrade costs I'm estimating less then $400 for the entire pull.

How much are you thinking the lowest price will be on the quarters once the pull is complete?
When the pull is complete you'll know. It is possible that little work is left on the panels. If the metal has not stretched much and the pull is done in the right amount in the right direction, most of the stress will be released in the panel. I wouldn't be surprised if the low area popped right back into place. Generally speaking, the area that creases will stretch. That area will need to be shrunk. So if the low area pops back into place, then a shrink on the crease (maybe even a shrinking disc might be used here) and it should be pretty close. Then you skim coat with a glazing compound, sand, spray a guide coat, sand, guide coat, sand, etc. On the low end I would say 2 hours a side. I think the $400 for the pull is way low so you might be wary of that.
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Old 03-09-2016, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mercedesbenzs55
So by comrade costs I'm estimating less then $400 for the entire pull.

How much are you thinking the lowest price will be on the quarters once the pull is complete?
Maybe $500 a side if he's that cheap on the pull. Depends on what they look like after the pull.
Old 03-09-2016, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RCPDesigns
When the pull is complete you'll know. It is possible that little work is left on the panels. If the metal has not stretched much and the pull is done in the right amount in the right direction, most of the stress will be released in the panel. I wouldn't be surprised if the low area popped right back into place. Generally speaking, the area that creases will stretch. That area will need to be shrunk. So if the low area pops back into place, then a shrink on the crease (maybe even a shrinking disc might be used here) and it should be pretty close. Then you skim coat with a glazing compound, sand, spray a guide coat, sand, guide coat, sand, etc. On the low end I would say 2 hours a side. I think the $400 for the pull is way low so you might be wary of that.
Thanks you for the indepth input.
I'll be there watching every step. I've seen this guys work, and hes pretty good. The price is more of a comrade hookup.

I'm worried about it looking gawdy. I dont want to be "that guy" driving the dilapidated S-Class. With the obvious rear end damage.

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Old 03-09-2016, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mercedesbenzs55
they told me I need ID and proof of ownership. So title should work. They week run the VIN and have it the day shipped from Texas.
This is correct. You need to provide proof of ownership and VIN# to order the key. You need to find out if you are required to bring the car in when you pick up the key. MBUSA has been requiring dealers to do the "synchronizing" process instead of just handing over the key and letting the owner do it. You need to make sure they will give you the key without the car being present.

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Old 03-09-2016, 07:28 PM
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Damn...OP is a real tropper. He is the kind of soldier you want to send on a war mission...never backs down despite all the attacks coming his way.

I think he realized his sunken cost is a sunken cost. No need for every other comment to be about that. And as we are on the 18th page in this thread, its clear he is adamant on fixing it for sentimental reasons as opposed to cutting his losses and letting the project die off.
People giving good advice but with some personal attacks...People need to be a little nicer with their comments. Its his money and his time.

I commend him for being able to handle this thread so far and wish him the best outcome possible.
Old 03-09-2016, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mercedesbenzs55
Thanks you for the indepth input.
I'll be there watching every step. I've seen this guys work, and hes pretty good. The price is more of a comrade hookup.

I'm worried about it looking gawdy. I dont want to be "that guy" driving the dilapidated S-Class. With the obvious rear end damage.
He might be able to finesse the quarter creases out during the pull without breaking the paint. If those shallow spots pop out clean and the paint stays put that would be a huge break.

If the quarters do need to be worked, filled and painted, the "right" repair would be to shoot the deck lid and bumper at the same time and blend into the rear doors. Otherwise you'll have two bright shiny quarters that stick out like a sore thumb.


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