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+1 to everything said, especially about the DAC. I am running both a ground loop isolator and a DAC. The ground loop isolator took care of the static issue. Not sure what effect the DAC had in terms of noise but you can’t go wrong with both.
Interesting. I have both a DAC and a ground loop isolator arriving today. What’s odd is the noise seems to stem from the MMI input itself. If I remove the aux cord from the MMI input I still am getting a heavy static sound.
Interesting. I have both a DAC and a ground loop isolator arriving today. What’s odd is the noise seems to stem from the MMI input itself. If I remove the aux cord from the MMI input I still am getting a heavy static sound.
Did you turn the Android system volume to 100%? Maybe try to compare with the volume off a CD, just to be sure. Or connect the DAC directly to a phone to verify.
Hi guys! I just thought of sharing my experience with the unit so far. I just had it installed a couple of days ago, and here’s what I’ve learned.
My S550 version uses NGT 3.0 – and that connects to the android unit via the AUX port. It’s a Japanese import to New Zealand. I got it mint, just 60k =)
So, here’s my Android 10 unit on a 2007 w221 NGT 3.0, lessons leaded in no particular order (well, probably the most annoying first…):
· If you’re using the AUX port, you need a ground loop isolator. Even if you’re using top of the line USB DACs.
o To my surprise, alternator whine makes the unit unusable even if you ground it to the command unit.
o I assumed that using an USB DAC would avoid any whine. It reduces it, but it’s still bad enough to make it unusable.
o I bought a cheap isolator from Jaycar (https://www.jaycar.co.nz/ground-loop...3-5mm/p/AA3086), and the output from the Android unit is clean enough. Not perfect, but clean enough not to **** me off. Also, I only buy stuff from Jaycar as they’re next door. They usually tax their stock 10x for the convenience of having it on the shelf. If you can, buy isolators from AliExpress or other online shops before your unit arrives. Really, if you’re using AUX, get yourself a good isolator.
o Isolators work by decoupling the entire circuit ground by using magnetism magic. So basically, your AUX don’t touch your Android/DAC/Car/Alternator unit ground. The amount of ripple the alternator causes is insane – just for fun I plugged my oscilloscope to the line and man… it turns any audio signal to ****.
· LVDS “No signal” hell comes from the ****ty crimps in the LVDS/android unit harness shipped with the Android unit; and not from the Command/OEM LVDS chunky cable.
o This is f*ing annoying. Luckily, I manged to notice this before re-assembling the entire dash. Read this and avoid hell.
o The LVDS cable links the Command chunky CD-thing to the old-school headunit-screen-thing. That’s the cable that links your OEM-Command video to your new Android unit. You need that video for stuff like car light settings, and to select your audio output, and your rear camera if you’re using the stock rear view camera.
o No signal, means no video. No video means you can’t configure a bunch of stuff you need to configure. You need video.
o The “No signal” error comes from the ****ty Chinese crimpjob on the LVDS adapter to the new Android unit. More specifically, the 4-pin (maybe shielded?) connector they use.
o My solution was to wiggle the cable in such a way that the connection seemed stable. Here’s how I MacGyvered it:
o In hindsight, if you’re having the same problem, just cut that connector and solder it together. Sometimes I still get the “No Signal” issue, and I know it’s just a matter of time until I have to open the entire thing again and solder that line, bypassing the ****ty crimp.
· AUX input on Japanese W221s might already be in use by their tool system add-ons or other stuff they love to wire in their cars
o The RCA AUX is usually on the upper site of the glovebox. If you open your glovebox, you should see a cut-out with 3 RCA’s. That’s the AUX input. If you don’t have that but your command shows the AUX option, there’s the possibility that the Japanese toll-device or other accessories are using it. Open your passenger-side fusebox and look around, it’s probably there.
· If you can, use the TOSLINK-style optical input. I suspect that if that’s an option for you, you won’t have all the issues that come with using the AUX input. The vendor I bought the unit from ships the TOSLINK-optical-cable-thing with NGT 3.5 units. Apparently 3.0 does not use it, but I suspect my Japanese version might have been able to. Don’t quote me on that, but if I could, I would have asked the vendor for the optical unit just to test it out.
· FlowUX Synestesia is a cool homescreen manager. Try it out.
· There’s no point in using a ground loop isolator after a $300 DAC. You’re filtering the DAC’s output at 40k’s hertz. I’ve ordered an USB isolator; I’ll test that out and see if it really eliminates while still outputting the DAC’s high frequency output.
I’m still having issues with Google maps outputting audio to the unit’s speakers and cancelling Spotify in the process. But I guess that’s all software, and I’ll update this “guide” once I sort that out.
older versions of this system had the console visible only in NTG mode... maybe that's the case?
this is latest soft build on Android 10 device. The panel slides up when you press this little arrow in the bottom left part of the screen...
Hey @amgs63dxb . I’ve been reading through this thread and let me thank you and the rest of the people for all your contribution and explanations. May I ask you where you had purchased your unit. I live in the UAE too and would like to see the unit (hopefully also in action) before I pull the trigger. There’s obviously the added advantage that the seller would support with minor feature integrations and also have the additional Y harnesses I may want to retain factory functionality for some options. I’m planning to put this in my 2012 W221 with iPod integration and rear seat entertainment package.
I’ve been bitten by some AliExpress sellers for other products and seeing the product here would help a lot.
Antiguagenius....you *******! By your inspiration I installed the 10.25 widescreen....now I read that the Android 11 unit is on its way...Just as I finally sorted out the install on the 10.25...lol.
Keep us posted on this...I know you got some flack initially by some doubters...but I have installed the 10.25 and it finally flows...no static now.
Thanks again man.
I am in the middle of this install. How did you guy fish the harness from the command up to the new unit? Also, I seen of video of them dropping the glove box. Is this required to run the two usb ports into the glove box?
I am in the middle of this install. How did you guy fish the harness from the command up to the new unit? Also, I seen of video of them dropping the glove box. Is this required to run the two usb ports into the glove box?
My car is LHD (steering wheel on the left). There is a fairly big space between the middle console and the glove compartment. I took the glove compartment out to route the cables; although it may be possible to do it without removing. I left some cable mess behind the command unit (the one with the dvd-changer) and some in that ‘space‘ (antennas mainly). I have both USB female cables in the glove compartment (this may be tricky without removing the glove compartment).
My car is LHD (steering wheel on the left). There is a fairly big space between the middle console and the glove compartment. I took the glove compartment out to route the cables; although it may be possible to do it without removing. I left some cable mess behind the command unit (the one with the dvd-changer) and some in that ‘space‘ (antennas mainly). I have both USB female cables in the glove compartment (this may be tricky without removing the glove compartment).
hope this helpes
Okay that makes sense. I was hoping to avoid pulling the glove compartment. Looks like it's unavoidable.
Okay, got it all installed. Everything seems to work. Unit turns out the have Android 11. The only issue I am having currently is the native music app seems to only play music stored in the unit's flash. I have my phone connected bluetooth but can't seem the get it to recognize the phone's audio.
hi guys, just a small problem that is really annoying, i bought a android auto box from aliexpress which is all fine and works...but, when i switch from AA box to mercedes menu the sound cuts out so i cannot adjust bass and treble, sound comes back when switched back to AA box, its using the standard plug in loom by the looks of it, should i leave the optical cables in the main comand unit or keep it as it is plugged into the AA box or do i need an optical loop, my car has the aux phono plugs in glove box.
any help is appreciated
hi guys, just a small problem that is really annoying, i bought a android auto box from aliexpress which is all fine and works...but, when i switch from AA box to mercedes menu the sound cuts out so i cannot adjust bass and treble, sound comes back when switched back to AA box, its using the standard plug in loom by the looks of it, should i leave the optical cables in the main comand unit or keep it as it is plugged into the AA box or do i need an optical loop, my car has the aux phono plugs in glove box.
any help is appreciated
You need to remove thr optical from the stock plug ans insert them into the Android harness that plugs into the command.
09-09-2021, 12:37 PM
