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Hello all, I'm here again with some questions for you guys about a possible aftermarket subwoofer install. I have purchased a Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D amplifier, an AudioControl LC2i, and a four gauge wiring kit to hopefully install my 2 10" Kicker L7 subwoofers I had from a previous car. From what I've researched so far, it is essential to remove the stock H/K rear deck subwoofer in order to allow air to travel from the trunk. I plan to remove the woofer, tap in to the stock sub's channel and run it into the LC2i.
Now on to some questions.
Any tips on removing the woofer?
Has anyone ran into electrical issues or warnings from the extra power draw of the amplifier? This is the first high end vehicle I've ever attempted to install a sound system on and I'm worried about the power consumption of the amplifier due to the sheer amount of electronics running off that rear accessory battery. My previous car was nowhere near as electronically advanced as the 221 (a 2010 Camaro SS with the garbage boston acoustics sound system.) The car currently has no electrical issues and the batteries hold their state well.
Do you think dynamat will be necessary? The current subwoofer rattles the rear deck tremendously, but that seems to be from the woofer itself almost hopping in the "enclosure." I did reduce the rattle by inserting small pieces of foam in between the subwoofer cover and the sunshade lid. I'm hoping the factory's generous amount of sound deadening will help tame some of the rattles as the L7s are pretty overkill. Thanks for reading!
Sort of off topic but related, I'm currently waiting for my H/K amp to be repaired by Becker Autosound due to water damage. Hopefully it returns this week as my new equipment arrived the day after the H/K amp bit the dust.
So, I did the wiring with my uncle and it was a complete B*^#H! It honestly took me about four to five hours for the whole install. 90% of the time was used by removing the stock subwoofer which entails removing the rear seat, C pillars, rear deck, and all the trunk panels. Once everything was wired correctly, cables hidden, etc I found out the amplifier I had just purchased (Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D) was defective and was stuck in protect mode. I tried everything the Fosgate support team told me and it still didn’t change. So I removed the amp, along with my 2 10” Kicker L7 subs and put in an infinity basslink in the mean time. The basslink provides substantially less bass than the stock subwoofer. But I think this is due to how insulated the trunk is, even with the stock sub removed. Hopefully the L7s will be able to punch enough to get the sound out of the trunk. But, on the bright side the Audio Control LC2i is absolutely amazing. Clear and clean signal, nice adjustments, and zero bass rolloff. I highly recommend it! I will update when I get the replacement amp from amazon! I also will do a write up soon on my new exhaust setup, which has totally transformed the car for me.
I run a JL amp with an Alpine Type R in a custom built box. No one believes it's a single sub - my stock sub was left in place. You can tie into those lines for the sub and run to the LC2i or if your amp has hi level inputs (JL does) you can use that. The LC2i has more control, but it's overkill for this type of installation. The L7's are nice. I have heard them many times and I am sure you will be happy. I prefer the JL Slash amps myself, but I hear good things about the RF brand.
So I’ve received my replacement amplifier and WOW! The bass is astronomical. The Basslink was not audible in the cabin whatsoever, but this setup is just so loud. I haven’t really fine tuned it yet, but right now I have the gain at about 3.5/11, punch EQ almost off, crossover at 100hz and sub sonic turned to about 28. It sounds great, but really destroys the trunk. Once I run the bass knob to the cabin and fully cable manage I should be good to go. I was worried that the L7s wouldn’t get enough power with the Rockford R1200-1D but I don’t have that worry now. It’s just amazing how good it is. The 10” L7 is rated at 650W RMS per woofer and it’s getting around 410W rms and it feels almost too powerful. Highly recommended. I’m gonna fish dynamating the trunk and doors to hopefully help with vibrations.
hey im currently trying to install a 1500.1 and two 12s, ill tap into the subs in the trunk but is it necessary to take the stock sub out to get good sound? id be running 1300 rms
1) the std amp is locked in as part of the car - its not 'just an amp'
2) the stock amp dies all the time - and is hideously expensive
3) its an under powered bit of junk that sounds horrible
forget messing with subs or speakers - as with ANY decent upgrade - good clean power is ALWAYS the starting point - until you fit an a high quality powerful solution for the speaker driving part of things its all a waste of time
thus because of the Merc install you need to take high level noise off that stock amp (or know a hi fi electronics guru to add pre-outs to your Merc amp) and push it into something worth bothering with like
where did you grab the accessory power in your trunk by the way? i know most amps need an accessory wire to turn on, I'm having trouble finding one in the trunk, i could possibly wire it from the back seats though.
in the back behind the rear seats of the car is the R SAM - its hidden in the boot behind a trim panel - or find the fuses above it by folding down the rear seat centre armrest and lifting a bit of trim.... those fuses above this SAM are on the SRB (signal relay board - AKA fuse box) on the right short side of this SRB are LOADS of switched feed take off points - most of an S class is an optional extra - you should be able to add the funny Merc clip in fuse holder bits
you don't say what age car - but mid 2007 or earlier is a massive interior toy battery ideal to pull power for a real amp
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W221 subwoofer install questions
