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Recently I started getting a vehicle icon with an arrow in the middle and the text say "Air Suspension malfunction". I press okay and it disappears, I have noticed that front driver side distance between the fender and the tire is almost nothing (maybe a finger wide) and noticing bumpy ride, rest of the week the height of the car seems normal even on the front driver side, the bumpiness though continues. It appears every Monday since I don't drive it on the weekend. the two day rest probably resets the system. Any idea where to start?
You should definitely pull the fault codes. A $125 scanner on amazon can read them for you, or you could take it to a dealer or indie shop. The struts leak a little bit, 20 mm per 10 hours is considered acceptable from what I remember (I think that's the W220, though, so perhaps W221 has different tolerances).
It's likely that your front left strut air bladder is leaking and will need to be replaced soon. This just happened to me on my 2011 S550.
Well, saw a write up of finding leakes at connections. Didn't find any leakes at the top of the strut. Also, checked 4 connections on ( what appears to be) pipes coming out of a silver block on air compressor placed on front right corner of the engine compartment. Strangely, these pipes or the block was not color coded as I had seen or read on other posting. That raises the doubt if I was checking the right block with 4 metallic connections coming out.
Last night while checking for leakes, I also played with raising the car and once done, I measured the distance between the floor and the edge of the fender. To my surprise, all 4 had varying heights with rear driver side being the lowest, than front driver side, than front passenger and rear passenger side being the highest in this order with an average of 1/2" to an inch difference. Thoughts?
Also, the warning is popping up more frequently to a point where yesterday I got a red warning sign about vehicle being too low and to stop driving.
As recommended need to have someone check for fault codes using MB diagnostics while doing so also re-calibrate suspension. DIY – check all sensors/connections, revisit struts and control valve for connection problems/leaks, check compressor harness/connection. Worst case scenario possible strut internal leakage in which case it would need to be replaced.
Last edited by konigstiger; Aug 15, 2019 at 04:02 PM.
Konigstiger, As always thank you very much for responding. One question I have is around Y36/6, I don't see that in my vehicle or at least not in that layout. If I look at the closeup of the Y36/6 in the attached document, it does not match what I see in the picture below, in the attachment/closeup I see 6 white rubber/plastic tubes coming out and the location is color coded but if you look at the picture y36/6 has 4 metal tubes coming out on the side, is it because the closeup is shown after a cover has been removed?
Also, on mine, on top of the compressor there is a silver metallic block that has 4 metal tubes coming out from the top and not from the sides, is the difference due to mine not being 4Matic?
Last but not the least, all the diag and re-calibration you talk about, can those be done through STAR?
Originally Posted by konigstiger
As recommended need to have someone check for fault codes using MB diagnostics while doing so also re-calibrate suspension. DIY – check all sensors/connections, revisit struts and control valve for connection problems/leaks, check compressor harness/connection. Worst case scenario possible strut internal leakage in which case it would need to be replaced.
4matic does not matter, Y36/6 is the valve block @ compressor only thing that might appear different is labeling could be missing. STAR should accommodate re-calibration & diagnostics.
Idk Konigstiger, I don't see this valve block. I only see the following silver block (please see the pictures)
Originally Posted by konigstiger
4matic does not matter, Y36/6 is the valve block @ compressor only thing that might appear different is labeling could be missing. STAR should accommodate re-calibration & diagnostics.
Okay, I knew I was doing something wrong, upon closely looking at the valve removal instructions, I think the compressor unit and the valve are in the middle, almost as if its behind the from grill. I will look into this when I get home tonight and update this thread. Also, I just purchased STAR C5 with SD disk, here is the link. I know you are busy, but when you have a minute or two please take a look and let me know your thoughts.
Compressor and valve unit are behind the bumper just in front of the right wheel. If you remove the right front wheel and the wheel well liner you will see the valve block.
Take a look at the pics in this thread, the sixth photo down shows the valve block (upper left of the photo) and the pump.
Thanks for the link. Makes sense now... what's the deal with jacking the car? I heard but didn't understand the fact that you can't leave the axle hanging after removing the tires. Thoughts?
Originally Posted by dlafever
Compressor and valve unit are behind the bumper just in front of the right wheel. If you remove the right front wheel and the wheel well liner you will see the valve block.
Take a look at the pics in this thread, the sixth photo down shows the valve block (upper left of the photo) and the pump.
I have not heard that but I typically follow the WIS procedures. For the suspension work you would normally want to release pressure from the struts in order to avoid damage to them or you. I've always done this via Xentry.
After funally understading how to locate and test the air leak at the valve, it turns out my wheels have special lugs all of them as opposed to one being the lock nut. It looks like flower, what gives??? I only have the usual MM impact wrench socket. What is it called and where to get it?
Thanks for your reply. I did get one of these convex 17mm socket but it does not fit. What size is the nut size on this vehicle? Also, not finding any larger than 17mm such as 21mm. Please advise
So, 17mm has been stock on many Mercedes for some time. The Convex (flower head) bolts appeared with the Maybach and then the W221 and are also on several other models. It is entirely possible that someone put 17mm hex head bolts on your car or even another size, do you have aftermarket wheels? You might just take a 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, etc. out to the car with you to see which one fits best. At the very least the lug wrench in the tool kit in the trunk should fit.
The issue is that I can't find anything but 17mm. Any suggestions would be great.
[E.g.QUOTE=dlafever;7831983]So, 17mm has been stock on many Mercedes for some time. The Convex (flower head) bolts appeared with the Maybach and then the W221 and are also on several other models. It is entirely possible that someone put 17mm hex head bolts on your car or even another size, do you have aftermarket wheels? You might just take a 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, etc. out to the car with you to see which one fits best. At the very least the lug wrench in the tool kit in the trunk should fit.[/QUOTE]
The wheels are not after market. The other thing I noticing is that the 17mm socket I purchased that does not fit, has very defined edges that are sharp. If you look the pictures of the bolt they are not sharp edges instead they are more like smooth edge. Am I looking into it too much?
No, I think you are correct, unfortunately from the photos it looks like the bolt heads have been rounded off a bit. So, if it were me, I would get a new set of bolts and then hammer on the 17mm or correct flower head socket on each one and hope you can get them off. The silver looking part is just a cover for the head of the bolt, which should look like the photos in this thread;
So quick update, I went ahead and replaced all of the lug nuts. I was told the reason my 7mm socket was not fitting was because the lugs had chrome covers and that they were out shape.
Going back to the original thread about suspension, I will do a leak test on the valve today now that I can remove the tire
In the picture that you shared (sixth from the top) it does not show another compressor looking object next to the (inside) bumper that object has rubberized cushioning and the bolts that are tied to plate and that plate is attached to the almost 90 degree looking metal pipe. Please see the pictures I took and advise why is mine different than what is shown in the posting and how to deal with ot so I can test the valve which now hidden behind this new metal plate I described.
Originally Posted by bshad74
Thanks for the link. Makes sense now... what's the deal with jacking the car? I heard but didn't understand the fact that you can't leave the axle hanging after removing the tires. Thoughts?
I would remove the plate, but with my luck I see yet again two flower looking nuts for which I don't have the socket for. I wish some one could list essential list of tools to buy for s550 and for new DIYers. Thoughts
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So, if it were me, I would get a new set of bolts and then hammer on the 17mm or correct flower head socket on each one and hope you can get them off. The silver looking part is just a cover for the head of the bolt, which should look like the photos in this thread;
