ABS/ESP/Distronic/Parktronic warnings after start up - no codes?
Well, also saving the $500+ parts markup the dealer would want to charge me as well, but you bring up a good point that it is risky.
Haven't removed/re-seated it yet, but want to test the power levels as I keep seeing an "under voltage" error in the codes. Perhaps a bad ground as well (there's a ground wire to the body right by the module too I want to take off, clean, and replace).
Haven't removed/re-seated it yet, but want to test the power levels as I keep seeing an "under voltage" error in the codes. Perhaps a bad ground as well (there's a ground wire to the body right by the module too I want to take off, clean, and replace).
I saw an interesting post yesterday in which a guy spent several thousand dollars in repairs before someone finally discovered a bad voltage regulator.
I saw an interesting post yesterday in which a guy spent several thousand dollars in repairs before someone finally discovered a bad voltage regulator.
I removed the massive "plug" and sprayed both it and there it goes with electrical contact cleaner
I reseated the plug
Error persists.
But... here's something odd. I ran a voltmeter to what I assume are the power inputs (two, thick red wires) at the top of the harness.
With the engine running, the one on the pass side gives 14v (good!). The one on the driver side is 0v (bad???). Anyone know if these are indeed power wires both? If these should both be supplying power, then this jives with the code I saw of "under voltage" for the module itself, right?
Last edited by lionsfan54; Sep 9, 2019 at 09:22 AM.
Thought I read somewhere that you can send them out for rebuild/repair?
the original fault is a DIY repair at home... on early ABS modules they even added some secret gunge to help one link wire from the multiplug to the circuit board ensure it corroded to failure in exactly the right length of time that no one suspected they did it on purpose. you can fix these with a paper clip and a soldiering iron. the second failure is the brushes in the ESP motor (like a baby wiper motor on the ABS unit), they made sure the brush guides where made just a tad too tight so after a few years the carbon build up causes the pump to fail... a particular specialty on BMW's... in fact the dealer software has a special mode to run the pump to failure when they get one in that doesn't register as have its bi annual fluid change.... of course the innocent ones will think I'm mistaken...
loads of shops offer unlimited warranty once they've removed the designed in manu faults....
if no comms unbolt the black bit, leaving the rest of the brake lines and aluminium valve block untouched, pop open the cover and repair the broken / corroded wire
Last edited by BOTUS; Sep 28, 2019 at 12:38 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
the original fault is a DIY repair at home... on early ABS modules they even added some secret gunge to help one link wire from the multiplug to the circuit board ensure it corroded to failure in exactly the right length of time that no one suspected they did it on purpose. you can fix these with a paper clip and a soldiering iron. the second failure is the brushes in the ESP motor (like a baby wiper motor on the ABS unit), they made sure the brush guides where made just a tad too tight so after a few years the carbon build up causes the pump to fail... a particular specialty on BMW's... in fact the dealer software has a special mode to run the pump to failure when they get one in that doesn't register as have its bi annual fluid change.... of course the innocent ones will think I'm mistaken...
loads of shops offer unlimited warranty once they've removed the designed in manu faults....
if no comms unbolt the black bit, leaving the rest of the brake lines and aluminium valve block untouched, pop open the cover and repair the broken / corroded wire
thanks
its so common over hear many fix it at home...
the other faults are mainly dry joints on the board and or link wires that fell off
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6m2H-nC0CqE
the other faults are mainly dry joints on the board and or link wires that fell off



I've never had any issues with it but last night it was cold night - about 15F (I'm located in MN).
I started a car (mine is 07 SL550) this morning and everything seemed fine but about 300ft into the drive cluster lights up like a Christmas tree.
ABS, STOP, something not working.
scared the crap out of me because when I stepped on the brakes it didn't feel like the car is slowing down.
I pulled over and felt the same thing as one of the earlier posts that wheel feels like it's hard to turn.
anyways, I turned the car off and back on, all the lights came back on right away but I let the car run for about 5 minutes to warm up.
turned the car off and back on and everything seemed fine.
this tells me it has something to do with very COLD environment contributing to this and was wondering if any of you are experiencing this in cold weather ?
I do have a STAR system so I can definitely look for codes. I am sure it will happen again.
I've never had any issues with it but last night it was cold night - about 15F (I'm located in MN).
I started a car (mine is 07 SL550) this morning and everything seemed fine but about 300ft into the drive cluster lights up like a Christmas tree.
ABS, STOP, something not working.
scared the crap out of me because when I stepped on the brakes it didn't feel like the car is slowing down.
I pulled over and felt the same thing as one of the earlier posts that wheel feels like it's hard to turn.
anyways, I turned the car off and back on, all the lights came back on right away but I let the car run for about 5 minutes to warm up.
turned the car off and back on and everything seemed fine.
this tells me it has something to do with very COLD environment contributing to this and was wondering if any of you are experiencing this in cold weather ?
I do have a STAR system so I can definitely look for codes. I am sure it will happen again.
I will have to check on that. I have all the service records for the vehicle so I need to find the document and see if/when it was done last. It has about 50k miles on it so I don’t know if that would be something within regular maintenance within that range.
is the ABS fluid something that needs to be frequently flushed / changed








