S-Class (W221) 2007-2013: S 320 CDI, S 350, S 450, S 500, S 550, S 420 CDI, S 600

ABS/ESP/Distronic/Parktronic warnings after start up - no codes?

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Old Sep 5, 2019 | 10:39 AM
  #26  
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Mercedes Benz S600
Originally Posted by konigstiger
N47/5 = ESP control unit, something to ponder: https://www.benzworld.org/threads/ab...-mine.2906682/
In other words... reset the crap out of it using STAR. I like that approach too, but then I gotta buy a STAR computer, etc. Hmmmm
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Old Sep 5, 2019 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by DaleB
Maybe so, but what will you be saving? Half an hour of labor? Versus the risk that, if anything doens't work, you're a very convenient person to blame. Have you had any better success getting that connector out and back in?

Well, also saving the $500+ parts markup the dealer would want to charge me as well, but you bring up a good point that it is risky.

Haven't removed/re-seated it yet, but want to test the power levels as I keep seeing an "under voltage" error in the codes. Perhaps a bad ground as well (there's a ground wire to the body right by the module too I want to take off, clean, and replace).
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Old Sep 5, 2019 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by lionsfan54
Well, also saving the $500+ parts markup the dealer would want to charge me as well, but you bring up a good point that it is risky.

Haven't removed/re-seated it yet, but want to test the power levels as I keep seeing an "under voltage" error in the codes. Perhaps a bad ground as well (there's a ground wire to the body right by the module too I want to take off, clean, and replace).
Checking and cleaning the ground strap connection would be a good idea. It costs nothing, and there's really no down side to doing it.

I saw an interesting post yesterday in which a guy spent several thousand dollars in repairs before someone finally discovered a bad voltage regulator.
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Old Sep 9, 2019 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by DaleB
Checking and cleaning the ground strap connection would be a good idea. It costs nothing, and there's really no down side to doing it.

I saw an interesting post yesterday in which a guy spent several thousand dollars in repairs before someone finally discovered a bad voltage regulator.
I cleaned and reseated the ground strap.
I removed the massive "plug" and sprayed both it and there it goes with electrical contact cleaner


I reseated the plug
Error persists.

But... here's something odd. I ran a voltmeter to what I assume are the power inputs (two, thick red wires) at the top of the harness.




With the engine running, the one on the pass side gives 14v (good!). The one on the driver side is 0v (bad???). Anyone know if these are indeed power wires both? If these should both be supplying power, then this jives with the code I saw of "under voltage" for the module itself, right?

Last edited by lionsfan54; Sep 9, 2019 at 09:22 AM.
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Old Sep 9, 2019 | 09:19 AM
  #30  
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Without a wiring diagram (and probably more knowledge than that), it's a guessing game. You may see different results depending on whether the ignition is on or off, engine running or not, etc.
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Old Sep 9, 2019 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by DaleB
Without a wiring diagram (and probably more knowledge than that), it's a guessing game. You may see different results depending on whether the ignition is on or off, engine running or not, etc.
I tweaked my post. All results were with the engine running. Hoping someone on here has a wiring diagram!
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Old Sep 27, 2019 | 03:44 PM
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Old Sep 28, 2019 | 12:30 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by lionsfan54
Got the codes read... sure enough "N47-5" all over the place. That's the ABS control module code. Thing is... it keeps saying "undervoltage" in the code reader. So, maybe it's just a loose power or ground line? I'm going to test them all and also clean what I can, otherwise a new module is coming my way.

Thought I read somewhere that you can send them out for rebuild/repair?
bit surprised this isn't better understood your side of the pond. This is an almost everyday error on UK cars for more than 15 years, every single manufacturer designs these to fail. Then when the invented ESP they got to add in another failure mode. As soon as the original fault occurs it looses comms with the rest of the car (alongside all the faults already listed you should get cruise control and the sat nav play up)

the original fault is a DIY repair at home... on early ABS modules they even added some secret gunge to help one link wire from the multiplug to the circuit board ensure it corroded to failure in exactly the right length of time that no one suspected they did it on purpose. you can fix these with a paper clip and a soldiering iron. the second failure is the brushes in the ESP motor (like a baby wiper motor on the ABS unit), they made sure the brush guides where made just a tad too tight so after a few years the carbon build up causes the pump to fail... a particular specialty on BMW's... in fact the dealer software has a special mode to run the pump to failure when they get one in that doesn't register as have its bi annual fluid change.... of course the innocent ones will think I'm mistaken...

loads of shops offer unlimited warranty once they've removed the designed in manu faults....

if no comms unbolt the black bit, leaving the rest of the brake lines and aluminium valve block untouched, pop open the cover and repair the broken / corroded wire

Last edited by BOTUS; Sep 28, 2019 at 12:38 PM.
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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 11:17 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by konigstiger

This is great, thank you so much!
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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 11:19 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
bit surprised this isn't better understood your side of the pond. This is an almost everyday error on UK cars for more than 15 years, every single manufacturer designs these to fail. Then when the invented ESP they got to add in another failure mode. As soon as the original fault occurs it looses comms with the rest of the car (alongside all the faults already listed you should get cruise control and the sat nav play up)

the original fault is a DIY repair at home... on early ABS modules they even added some secret gunge to help one link wire from the multiplug to the circuit board ensure it corroded to failure in exactly the right length of time that no one suspected they did it on purpose. you can fix these with a paper clip and a soldiering iron. the second failure is the brushes in the ESP motor (like a baby wiper motor on the ABS unit), they made sure the brush guides where made just a tad too tight so after a few years the carbon build up causes the pump to fail... a particular specialty on BMW's... in fact the dealer software has a special mode to run the pump to failure when they get one in that doesn't register as have its bi annual fluid change.... of course the innocent ones will think I'm mistaken...

loads of shops offer unlimited warranty once they've removed the designed in manu faults....

if no comms unbolt the black bit, leaving the rest of the brake lines and aluminium valve block untouched, pop open the cover and repair the broken / corroded wire
I fully understand the issue. I contacted numerous shops that rebuild control modules and no one wanted to take this one on. If you know of one that services the US, I'm all for it!

thanks
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Old Oct 15, 2019 | 02:06 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by lionsfan54
I fully understand the issue. I contacted numerous shops that rebuild control modules and no one wanted to take this one on. If you know of one that services the US, I'm all for it!

thanks

its so common over hear many fix it at home...


the other faults are mainly dry joints on the board and or link wires that fell off
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Old Oct 15, 2019 | 02:21 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
its so common over hear many fix it at home...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6m2H-nC0CqE

the other faults are mainly dry joints on the board and or link wires that fell off
Yeah, I dunnon man... that's a motor, my issue is with the controller and it requires STAR computer to complete the replacement/fix. So not really a DIY job
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Old Oct 15, 2019 | 08:25 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by lionsfan54
Yeah, I dunnon man... that's a motor, my issue is with the controller and it requires STAR computer to complete the replacement/fix. So not really a DIY job
Have you seen this thread? https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...lved-mine.html
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Old Oct 16, 2019 | 10:16 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by EasyPhil
I did. I don't own a STAR computer though
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 09:25 AM
  #40  
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ABS problem... COLD ??

just to run something by you. what were the temps when this ABS popped up on your cluster screen?
I've never had any issues with it but last night it was cold night - about 15F (I'm located in MN).
I started a car (mine is 07 SL550) this morning and everything seemed fine but about 300ft into the drive cluster lights up like a Christmas tree.
ABS, STOP, something not working.
scared the crap out of me because when I stepped on the brakes it didn't feel like the car is slowing down.
I pulled over and felt the same thing as one of the earlier posts that wheel feels like it's hard to turn.
anyways, I turned the car off and back on, all the lights came back on right away but I let the car run for about 5 minutes to warm up.
turned the car off and back on and everything seemed fine.

this tells me it has something to do with very COLD environment contributing to this and was wondering if any of you are experiencing this in cold weather ?

I do have a STAR system so I can definitely look for codes. I am sure it will happen again.
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 09:28 AM
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When was the last time your brake fluid was flushed? If that happened to me only when the car was very cold, I'd suspect some moisture in the brake fluid.
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 09:29 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Dhunch22
just to run something by you. what were the temps when this ABS popped up on your cluster screen?
I've never had any issues with it but last night it was cold night - about 15F (I'm located in MN).
I started a car (mine is 07 SL550) this morning and everything seemed fine but about 300ft into the drive cluster lights up like a Christmas tree.
ABS, STOP, something not working.
scared the crap out of me because when I stepped on the brakes it didn't feel like the car is slowing down.
I pulled over and felt the same thing as one of the earlier posts that wheel feels like it's hard to turn.
anyways, I turned the car off and back on, all the lights came back on right away but I let the car run for about 5 minutes to warm up.
turned the car off and back on and everything seemed fine.

this tells me it has something to do with very COLD environment contributing to this and was wondering if any of you are experiencing this in cold weather ?

I do have a STAR system so I can definitely look for codes. I am sure it will happen again.
thanks for thinking of me! This happens in all temps I'm afraid. It's either the module bad, or one of the power leads into the module is not working. Since we have 7" of snow and counting right now, this will be fixed in April.
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by DaleB
When was the last time your brake fluid was flushed? If that happened to me only when the car was very cold, I'd suspect some moisture in the brake fluid.
good question.
I will have to check on that. I have all the service records for the vehicle so I need to find the document and see if/when it was done last. It has about 50k miles on it so I don’t know if that would be something within regular maintenance within that range.
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 09:57 AM
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brake fluid was changed

Originally Posted by DaleB
When was the last time your brake fluid was flushed? If that happened to me only when the car was very cold, I'd suspect some moisture in the brake fluid.
06/03/2016 it was flushed, about 10k miles ago at the local MB dealer.



is the ABS fluid something that needs to be frequently flushed / changed

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