39039

I changed my W221(M278) engine's oil and filter. Here is the video:

You Tube

EasyPhil

Nice video, you have a great set up! Two tips:

You might want to consider using the suction method to change your oil which doesn't require you to jack up the car and get under it. This is the method they use at the dealer and works well as the oil dipstick extends all the way to the bottom of the tank and all you need to do is make an airtight fit at the top of the tube and use a fluid extractor to pump the oil out. The other tip is to pour the bulk of the oil in to the oil filter opening prior to closing it with the new filter.

DaleB

I was skeptical of this method until I tried it. I bought this ( ) and it works great -- no compressed air of vacuum pump needed. It only hold 6 liters, so I do need to empty it twice for the Mercedes, but it means I can change the oil in the car, the truck, my wife's Volvo, whatever without getting under the car. The first time I used it was on a 289 in a Mustang I'm restoring, before pulling the engine. When I removed the oil pan there was no more oil left in it than if I had used the drain plug. Now I don't even need to change clothes to do an oil change, it's freakin' great. No airtight fit needed anywhere, by the way.

39039

Thank you for two tips.
I used to tried Extractor Pump Tank Remover. At the beginning the section was working well, but the last quart was difficult, due to I really can not make the end of tube seat at the bottom of the oil sump, never suck it completely. As a completist, that's frustrate. So I turn to the bottom drainage, also check bottom of chassis.
The pouting oil from filter seat is a good idea that would be fastest way to let oil running entire engine.

39039

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DaleB

I found it works best if the end of the tube is cut at about a 10 degree angle or so off of square. Just enough that you can run it all the way to the bottom, so it rests against he bottom of the oil pan, but doesn't seal itself like it would with a 90 degree cut. When I refilled, I ended up adding about 9.5 quarts which means it took the full 9 liters.

EasyPhil

The dipstick tube acts as a suction tube, it goes all the way to the bottom of the tank. What I do is create an air tight connection at the top of the tube and I get all of the oil out. I've tried this on a W210, W220 and W221 using the MityVac. Like you I used to think I had to get the tube to the bottom of the tank but the way the Mercedes are designed all you need is an airtight seal at the top. Take at look at what they do in a Mercedes shop.

EasyPhil

The correct way is to NOT extend the tube down the dipstick tube. Create an air tight seal at the top of the tube and the dipstick tube serves as an extension of the tube allowing you to get all of the oil out of the pan.

DaleB

:: shrug :: All I know is... I didn't need to worry about trying to get an air tight seal, and I got a full 9L of oil out. You mileage, as they say, may vary, I guess.

EasyPhil

Just watch the video above.

39039

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DaleB

I did. Not sure what your point is. I don’t have the big, expensive dealer vacuum oil extraction setup, not could I justify one. Instead I used a smaller, much cheaper setup, which sucked the full amount of oil out of the engine in a few minutes. No hassle, no mess, complete drainage. Don’t know how it could have been better.

EasyPhil

My point is that what you are describing isn't required and will not work on certain cars namely a W221 4Matic. The dipstick tube runs all the way down to the bottom which means an air tight seal at the top is all you need. You don't need the machine shown in the video, it's just an extractor just like the $100 MityVac that I use.

DaleB

"Not required", I'm sure you're correct. "Will not work", I'm equally sure is not correct. Think about it for a moment. As long as the dipstick tube can be used to guide the narrow plastic pickup tube to the bottom of the oil pan, the extractor I use will get the oil out. I've got to wonder if you've actually seen the type of extractor I use -- it's just a vacuum pump with a 6L reservoir, with a long HDPE tube that snakes down through the dipstick tube to reach the bottom of the oil pan to suck up the oil. Works like a champ on any engine or transmission I've tried (including a 4Matic E550).

You do it your way, I'll do it my way, @39039 will pull the drain plug, and everyone is happy. How's that?

EasyPhil

Mercedes technicians use the dipstick tube itself as part of the extraction process. They don't stick a tube down that tube and if you have a 4Matic it won't get to the bottom anyway, at least not on my 2007 S550 your E550 may be different but the dealer techs use an adapter to create an airtight seal and as I mentioned before I've used this technique on a 2000 W210, a 2004 W220 and a 2007 W221. I used to do what you did for many years until I realized that all that was needed was an airtight seal at the top. I'm just sharing what I learned and I'm speaking to everyone not just you.

39039

Wow, such a warm discussion There is always a world wide hot topic of the method to how to take out the oil from engine, from China to USA what I experienced Sucking out is more efficiency and save working time, Draining out can taking out the most quantity of oil. As a manager of factory, I must use machine to suck out to save working time, as a completist DIYer, I select draining out. That's what I wanna talk about a completist how to changing oil in my video.

Ninamashr

First of all that's an awesome video you did. As far as the oil change types it's a personal preference. I'm old school and I use the draining method as opposed to the extraction method. I just prefer thoroughness as opposed to ease during the oil change. By draining you get to check on the suspension components, oil pan leaks, coolant leaks, power steering leaks, etc; which would never be looked at using the extraction method. Sure it might take an extra 10 min to remove and re-install the splash shield but it's worth it to me to check the undercarriage area for any potential problems.

39039

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Maduro

and how do you make an airtight fit at the top?

DaleB

I don't. In fact, I don't see how that would work... if you're going to suck or pump oil out of the crankcase, then you will need air to be able to enter to displace the oil. I use an oil extractor that sucks the oil from the bottom of the pan. It works quite well; I've tried removing the drain plug afterward and didn't get more than an ounce or so of oil from the drain. I could change oil while wearing a suit and not worry about getting it dirty.

Maduro

No offense but I was asking 'EasyPhil'. And yes your science is correct, but that is solved by removing the filler cap (as shown in the video). I'm interested in trying this because, yes, the siphon hose on my extractor worked (makes it all the way to the bottom) but I had to use the smallest size hose this way and it took over an hour to get all 8.5L out. If I could seal a larger hose just near the top instead, I'd like to see if it speeds up the extraction.

DaleB

I can see using an airtight boot at the top of the dipstick tube and venting by removing the oil filter cap (pretty obvious). You could also wrap some silicone self-fusing tape around the larger extractor tube to get a seal inside the dipstick tube. But why bother? The suction extractor works fine. I removed 9l in probably under 10 minutes. The trick is to remove the oil filter cap to vent the crankcase, and do it when the oil is good and warm, not cold. Cold oil would take a lot longer. And by "warm", I mean normal post-shutdown temperatures, too hot to stick your fingers in. None of the plastics involved are going to deform or melt at normal oil temperatures.

Maduro

You missed the part where I said that it took over an hour for me to extract the oil out. Not sure why it goes so slow but was thinking it was due to the very small diameter tube I need to use to fit it all the way down my oil checker tube. That's why I want to try something else to see if it speeds things up.

DaleB

I didn't miss that part. I just figured the only reason it would have taken that long was if the oil was cold, or the crankcase wasn't vented. I suppose not having a 45 degree cut on the end of the tube would do it as well... or if it's a TINY little tube. I use the largest diameter tube that will fit through the dipstick tube, which is still the smaller one that came with the extractor. It still removes all the oil in a few minutes. The dipstick tube isn't a straight shot, so there's one or two spots where you will need to give it a good push to get it through the tube.

I also use a pretty good vacuum. There's a fitting for an air hose, but I just pump the thing manually, until it feels like I'm not getting any more vacuum with more pumping. A couple more pumps every liter or so keeps it flowing quite nicely with the oil hot.

chassis

Dealers do not remove oil exclusively via suction. My dealer bottom drains my W166 GLE. I have seen it. WIS calls for suction extraction on W166.

Furthermore, MB is moving to bottom drain as official procedure. For the new Inline 6 engine with a plastic single use oil pan plug, the procedure is bottom drain and the plastic plug with its o-ring must be replaced. In other news, the bottom oil pan section is now plastic rather than metal for the inline 6 and other newer engines.

Adapters are sold to seal the mitivac to the top of the dipstick tube, creating an airtight connection. Air enters the crankcase via the open oil fill cap or the removed oil filter housing.