I've been hearing quite loud clunk noise, while starting to move with wheels turned. Though it was suspension, like ball joint. BUT, couple days ago, I've tried to pull up from standstill with wheels completely turned to left side, and car didn't move, just tries to move and clunks. Straighten wheels, and drove back home. Pulled the wheel, and noticed, that front axle shaft moves quite severely inside front differential. Is it axle shaft bearing, or what?

 

Bump.

 

So it is intermediate shaft bearing failure.
Bearing is split in half.
One side stuck on the axle, so I was able to cut it out.
Outer part of a bearing is stuck inside the case. Does anyone has any idea how to fish it out from there?

 

I hope, I'm not alone here.

Does anyone could help with WIS instructions how to change that bearing?

 

I don’t have WIS. Having looked at my W166 shafts (all) and having removed many driveshafts in my day, isn’t it plainly obvious to the reasonably skilled technician? Serious question.

 

Yes it is. Kind of.
1st of all, outer bearing race is stuck, so at first I don't know how to remove it?
When I will remove it, how I will install new one? Should it be pressed on the shaft, or in the case?
Also, I saw russians make dents (it is specific word, but I don't know in English) to keep bearing from spinning inside oil pan, because bearing place sometimes wear out. Americans, I suppose, just change the oil pan.?
That's why I need to look at instructions.

 

So there's not a single person who has access to WIS?

 

How about this...

 

Thank You. That's not exactly what I needed, but it will be useful for sure.

So I've found instruction from MB, and it is funniest thing ever:

Remove axle shaft, remove ring, remove bearing. Instal in reverse order. Hilarious.

 

I've made a video regarding this.
Might be helpful to someone in the future.

 

I have a crunch/clunking sound from the front axle only while the wheels are turned and only while braking..could I be facing the same issue as you..what do I have to do to check??

 

My bearing replacement didn't removed that sound. I will go to suspension shop to figure it out.

 

the CV joints at the end get noisy (clicking) and wear fast if there's insufficient lube (obviously gets much worse as they work far harder on a lock...) lots of wear and the joint can fall to bits

 

CV joints doesn't make noise sound, when stopping.

 

Is that Vlad!?

 

CV-joint is built with ball bearings (just the *****) that are placed in slots between two axle halves. When car drives straight these ***** stay in the middle of the slot but when wheels are turned the ***** move axially in the slots (or the slots move around *****. Because the car is driven straight most of the time or steering wheel is turned only a little the ***** wear a short groove in the slots at the contact points where they mostly are positioned and transfer the.force thru the joint.

Wear happens as the lubrication is not good since the ***** do not actually turn, they just roll back and forth a little bit and grease is squeezed out from between the parts. Using the right kind of grease on CV-joints is important as the grease must be of kind that it sticks in the surfaces well so if anybody re-lubricates CV-joint it is better to find out what the correct grease is.

After the wear gets big enough a rattling sound is generated when steering wheel is turned and power applied on the wheels. This sound comes from those ***** rolling over the wear spot that makes them "jump" inside the joint. This noise only happens when wheels are turned.

I used to have a SAAB 96 long time ago. It was one of the first front wheel driven car models in the world and I got this rattling problem as the joints had worn. The fix was to swap them shafts as in that car left and right shafts were the same part. This fix took care of the rattle other than now I had it when reversing as the force going reverse was again on the worn side of the joint halves. Well, that did not bother me as reversing is so little amount of driving car and speed is low.

These worn shafts did make some rattle also wen going forward and doing heavy engine breaking but the fix for that was to open the "sprag" {one way coupling} that did not allow engine breaking so there never was reverse force to the wheels from the engine.

MB axle halves probably are not the same part so this swapping the shafts trick probably does not work but the main point here is that CV-joints do make rattling sound when they wear.

 

No., I'm not Vlad.

 

I never said opposite. I just say, that they not make sound while braking. I have enough experience with disassembling broken CV joints.

 

Unrelated question to your issue but it is possible to have oil leak from oil pan because bad bearing?

 

It shouldn't, because there's a "tunnel" for a axle shaft, and it is dry.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/07-11-Merce...p2047675.l2557

 

Nice job! We need more people like you on the forum.

 

Thank You, man. Really appreciate it.

 

Awesome @Simonas.st , keep it going and let us know result.

 

The result is, that bearing was changed.

 

Simonanas.st
Did you fix your problem with code P0011, imam na moq m273, the same problem P0011 perfect operation of the engine, cold start is perfect when the car heats up rarely turns off the cylinders sometimes, it is difficult to start when it is warm.
-Replaced Collector
-Replaced crankshaft sensor.


I have error P0011, after accumulating this error start Missfire cylidner, the car starts to run unevenly and horribly, at some point it gets better.

When the problem is not manifested, the car works just perfectly.