Sudden loss of rear air suspension
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Sudden loss of rear air suspension
2013 S550 with 141,000 on the odometer and today noticed some bounce in the rear while exiting the highway after picking my son up from the airport..."that doesn't feel right" and he noticed it too. Pull over and the rear end is completely down over both wheels. I hit the lift/rise button out of desperation and the malfunction light came on about 10 minutes later. Fortunately we were in bumper to bumper shore traffic and weren't going anywhere fast anyway, and we limped home.
Short of this being something stupid like a blown fuse it's not the type of thing I'm going to try to fix. I called the dealer on the way, figuring I'd bring it right to them, and didn't like to hear "we have no loaners and are really backed up on repairs" so I might have to go to the local foreign specialist. He's been in business for years and is local, I just never go there because the dealer gives me a loaner.
I'm posting this more as a placeholder to share the experience and end result repair so that someone might benefit from it.
The forum has been good to me in the past, it's the least I can to do contribute.
I have a feeling this one is going to hurt $.
Short of this being something stupid like a blown fuse it's not the type of thing I'm going to try to fix. I called the dealer on the way, figuring I'd bring it right to them, and didn't like to hear "we have no loaners and are really backed up on repairs" so I might have to go to the local foreign specialist. He's been in business for years and is local, I just never go there because the dealer gives me a loaner.
I'm posting this more as a placeholder to share the experience and end result repair so that someone might benefit from it.
The forum has been good to me in the past, it's the least I can to do contribute.
I have a feeling this one is going to hurt $.
#2
Senior Member
2013 S550 with 141,000 on the odometer and today noticed some bounce in the rear while exiting the highway after picking my son up from the airport..."that doesn't feel right" and he noticed it too. Pull over and the rear end is completely down over both wheels. I hit the lift/rise button out of desperation and the malfunction light came on about 10 minutes later. Fortunately we were in bumper to bumper shore traffic and weren't going anywhere fast anyway, and we limped home.
Last edited by COUPCONNOISSEUR; 08-13-2023 at 04:03 AM.
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Staten Island, NY
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2011 GL 550, 2010 MB S550, 2004 BMW 645Cic 1988 Corvette
When my rear height sensor went the back was jacked up like a monster truck. It was very uncomfortable to drive. The repair is fairly simple It's an arm with pivot points at each end.
#4
the idea is simple, the fitment of a new rear level sensor link rod is an utter nightmare - the part is around$35, you should do both fronts too which is really easy, they seize on little plastic / metal ball joints and then snap off (3 in total on the car)
most cars drop on the floor, a few do the opposite and go up - I think the ones that go up, have the link snap off and the sensor arm flies somehow and manages till it flips over a 180 degree arc and reads backwards
you shouldn't drive it when its on the floor
most cars drop on the floor, a few do the opposite and go up - I think the ones that go up, have the link snap off and the sensor arm flies somehow and manages till it flips over a 180 degree arc and reads backwards
you shouldn't drive it when its on the floor
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The Thomas J (08-13-2023)
#5
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Location: Staten Island, NY
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2011 GL 550, 2010 MB S550, 2004 BMW 645Cic 1988 Corvette
the idea is simple, the fitment of a new rear level sensor link rod is an utter nightmare - the part is around$35, you should do both fronts too which is really easy, they seize on little plastic / metal ball joints and then snap off (3 in total on the car)
most cars drop on the floor, a few do the opposite and go up - I think the ones that go up, have the link snap off and the sensor arm flies somehow and manages till it flips over a 180 degree arc and reads backwards
you shouldn't drive it when its on the floor
most cars drop on the floor, a few do the opposite and go up - I think the ones that go up, have the link snap off and the sensor arm flies somehow and manages till it flips over a 180 degree arc and reads backwards
you shouldn't drive it when its on the floor
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Didn't hear from the mechanic, so I called. Figured by 4 pm on the 3rd day was long enough to wait.
Turns out it was the sensor. He tried explaining it to me but basically, the car thinks its up, but it's down.
Repair should run around $550 including 2 hours of labor and car is expected to be ready tomorrow.
I'll follow up with a closing post and more info to share once I get the car back.
Turns out it was the sensor. He tried explaining it to me but basically, the car thinks its up, but it's down.
Repair should run around $550 including 2 hours of labor and car is expected to be ready tomorrow.
I'll follow up with a closing post and more info to share once I get the car back.
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The Thomas J (08-17-2023)
#7
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Location: Staten Island, NY
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2011 GL 550, 2010 MB S550, 2004 BMW 645Cic 1988 Corvette
Didn't hear from the mechanic, so I called. Figured by 4 pm on the 3rd day was long enough to wait.
Turns out it was the sensor. He tried explaining it to me but basically, the car thinks its up, but it's down.
Repair should run around $550 including 2 hours of labor and car is expected to be ready tomorrow.
I'll follow up with a closing post and more info to share once I get the car back.
Turns out it was the sensor. He tried explaining it to me but basically, the car thinks its up, but it's down.
Repair should run around $550 including 2 hours of labor and car is expected to be ready tomorrow.
I'll follow up with a closing post and more info to share once I get the car back.
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#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Well, not so fast.
Mechanic called this morning, all flustered and out of breath.
He quoted 2 hours of labor not realizing the year of the car and location of the sensor, which is above the exhaust and apparently requires dropping the frame or suspension or whatever to access it for repair. New labor quote is 6 hours instead of 2 hours. Looking at $1,300 range. Car should be done today, 6 hours from 9:30.![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Mechanic called this morning, all flustered and out of breath.
He quoted 2 hours of labor not realizing the year of the car and location of the sensor, which is above the exhaust and apparently requires dropping the frame or suspension or whatever to access it for repair. New labor quote is 6 hours instead of 2 hours. Looking at $1,300 range. Car should be done today, 6 hours from 9:30.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#9
he's muddled - the rear is HORRIBLE, take of the anti roll-bar and it ought to be do-able - OR - you just attach with a worm drive clip in the first place in 30 minutes !!!
if you want to go mad and let him charge you to take the axle off - there are a load of diff bushes he should replace at the same time !!!!!
if you want to go mad and let him charge you to take the axle off - there are a load of diff bushes he should replace at the same time !!!!!
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Botus, I have no idea what any of that means, but Ima take your word for it.
Car is done, thirteen hundred and change, or $1,155 with cash discount.
He did show me the computer that showed the repair should take .6 hours, or .4 under warranty.
It's frustrating because you are at the mercy of the shop when it comes to how they charge.
At the end of the day, I need the car fixed.
He's got the experience and tools to fix the car.
He fixes car.
I give him money.
Oh, the sensor was fine, the bar attached to the sensor is what rusted out and broke.
Car is done, thirteen hundred and change, or $1,155 with cash discount.
He did show me the computer that showed the repair should take .6 hours, or .4 under warranty.
It's frustrating because you are at the mercy of the shop when it comes to how they charge.
At the end of the day, I need the car fixed.
He's got the experience and tools to fix the car.
He fixes car.
I give him money.
Oh, the sensor was fine, the bar attached to the sensor is what rusted out and broke.
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#12
the sensor is almost always OK, its the $35 dollar bracket that just snaps off
if he didn't do BOTH fronts (for the exact same reason) inside that price during the same visit - you should not go back to that garage again - and you'll need to get them done ASAP - the good news it that should be £150 the pair parts and labour !!! the fronts are easy
not sure of another owner that's had the axel out for this "small - but horrible job..."
if he didn't do BOTH fronts (for the exact same reason) inside that price during the same visit - you should not go back to that garage again - and you'll need to get them done ASAP - the good news it that should be £150 the pair parts and labour !!! the fronts are easy
not sure of another owner that's had the axel out for this "small - but horrible job..."
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I have no idea what the dealer would have charged, assuming they eventually could get around to the repair. My dealer told me they were really backed up on repairs and lets be honest, dealers don't enjoy a reputation for finding ways to save money on repairs. At least not here in the states.
In my case, the mechanic did show me a photo of the car with a brace under it and half the suspension dropped, so I know he did the work as he said. Whether it took 6 hours, who knows. It's a 2nd generation foreign car specialist who is also, very busy. Botus, I appreciate your thoughts on the subject and hope that this thread will help someone else if/when they have the same issue.
![Cheers](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/cheers.gif)
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doni01 (08-18-2023)
#14
I sure he changed the rear link - but did he change the front two as well ? if not, potentially next week we'll be here again....