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I have a 2006 s500 , 90000kms. I've been driving it for 12 months, pretty much trouble free so far touch wood. Apart from having to get the sensors on the transmission conductor? plate replaced.
Sorry I have introduced myself before but have lost the login credentials so this is a new account.
Anyway..
Driving home tonight I stopped at the shops, went to restart the car but it won't turn over, I can hear the click of the starter solenoid but it doesn't crank.
My driving pattern is fairly consistent I use the car at least each workday driving around 90 minutes per day.
There were no warning lights or messages prior to this and it never struggled to start previously.
I have no idea how old the battery is, the service history indicated a battery was replaced but the history is in the car so I can't check which one and when but IIRC it was a few years ago which I guess means even if it was this battery it could be dead
There is some corrosion on the negative terminal of the battery as per the attached photo.
Is it a safe bet to assume the starter battery is just dead, and the best option is to replace?
2007 S600, 2007 Chrysler 300 SRT8, 2000 C5 Corvette, 2017 Mustang GT, 2023 300C, and a 2019 Lincoln
I would start with a new battery. That one looks older than me. If you also have a consumer battery in the trunk as I do, and if it is also as old as the hills; you might also save yourself the next headache by replacing it. If battery replacement does not start the car, you probably do have a bad starter. Do not consider a cheap Chinese pattern part.
2007 S600, 2007 Chrysler 300 SRT8, 2000 C5 Corvette, 2017 Mustang GT, 2023 300C, and a 2019 Lincoln
Also check the belt for slippage on the alternator often due to a loose tensioner spring. If the belt is loose, the battery won't be charged well. An old battery and a weak charge is never good.
Hi, thanks for the advice.
I need to shift the car in the morning so I'm hoping I can find a battery locally first thing.
Can I just replace the battery with a generic car parts store battery. I see the local store has a 530A Cold crank hour battery but its 231mm long.
I see the OEM battery is only 203mm long, will a 231mm long battery fit on that battery tray and are the cold crank hours all I need to consider?
I'm not sure what the spec 'Kapazitat' 35Ah refers to, the specs for the battery online don't mention Ah
make sure u don't short the leads - there will still be power around at the battery as the boot is still live !.... once you take off the battery - tape up the positive terminal just to be safe.... and don't dangle the earth on the tall post of the funny fuse box beside the battery either
2007 S600, 2007 Chrysler 300 SRT8, 2000 C5 Corvette, 2017 Mustang GT, 2023 300C, and a 2019 Lincoln
There is nothing cheap about maintaining a Mercedes but I personally believe that a well maintained S Class is the finest motorcar in the World. I am very old and graduated high school in 1969. My first car was a 1968 Plymouth and it needed a new battery in 1970. I bought it at Interstate Battery and it cost $10 new. Today, that same battery would retail at $199.
I fitted more powerful one again with 4 years warranty - a larger one that easily fits but its much taller, only the main battery clamp fits without modification
EA640 242L x 175W x 190H 12V 64Ah 640A £61.96 - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/exide/ea640/
Hi
So I replaced the starter battery with a Varta AUX1 and it started right up no problem - lucky..
I measured the voltage at the starter battery terminals with the engine running at 14.25 volts, is this the expected voltage?
One strange thing I noticed is the GPS nav came back, it's been intermittent on this car since the beginning of the year and reading around I assumed the GPS aerial was on its way out, maybe it isn't and it was a power issue?
This car had a dealership history ending at 66000km in mid 2018 with the original owner. (I picked it up at 76000km from a guy who owned it for a couple of months, put a few thousand kms on it and decided he preferred older models after buying it off the original owners son).
Checking back I see both batteries were replaced in August 2014 at 61000kms , part numbers A2305410001 (the starter battery) and A004541860126 which I assume is the consumer battery?
I see in mid 2018 that the service invoice notes that the starter is deemed 'good' but the consumer battery is deemed 'charge'. The owner was given the option of replacing the consumer battery but the price quoted seemed to double between 2014 and 2018 so he declined.
I guess I should probably replace this battery as well now, but is there a way to check on its health first? I have seen mention of checking to see if the lead is still covered?
Would reading the voltage at the consumer battery terminals tell me anything?
Thanks for the advice and part numbers, much appreciated
Nigel.
you need to check replace the real battery in the boot
the rear battery should be an AGM battery - with white tissue paper (absorbed glass matting - as in AGM) it dries out and you can see the black plates - and it stops working - vettebbk, didn't get on well trying - but if its OK and you top it up and let it re swell the tissue paper to get continuity should be as good as new
its should NOT be a wet battery with a puddle on top - and these days they have craftily reduce quality till some cells die and fizz up - good ones or the originals last forever
I checked the rear battery, good news and maybe bad news.
It was replaced in 2020 going by the date on the affixed courier sticker.
It measures 12 volts with the car not running and 14 with the car running at the battery terminals.
But it looks like its the wrong battery, the part number is A 001 982 80 08 which is only 70ah 720A as opposed to the correct 95Ah 850A
What are the implications of leaving this battery in use now? Everything in the car appears to be working as it should now.
let says you need to run diagnostics - which is the case on most of these every month or so for a very good one, or daily for the majority
- so you leave leave a door open, the key on and the heater fans and radio running, even after the interior and door lights extinguish after 7 mins, the big battery still goes flat in 20 mins
- I guess the wrong size will manage the same in 10 minutes
yeah I thought that might be the case, guess I'll be careful to not unnecessarily use power when the car isn't running.
doesn't seem much point in replacing a newish battery unless I really have to, mafor all the aybe I'll just see what happens.
they don't like occasional use - the rear battery will go flat just sitting locked inside a garage - 2 weeks the rear is borderline, 3 weeks its feeling sorry for itself, and 4 weeks u r damaging it
you should just replace it with the correct size and correct AH rating ( 95AH ) Be sure to thoroughly clean the wire terminals and the battery posts BEFORE installing.
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