S-Class (W221) 2007-2013: S 320 CDI, S 350, S 450, S 500, S 550, S 420 CDI, S 600

2009 S600 W221 ABC Malfunction

Old Dec 29, 2023 | 03:02 AM
  #1  
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From: Portland, Oregon
2009 S600 V-12
2009 S600 W221 ABC Malfunction

Hello, I posted this initially in the W275 ABC thread and copied it over to here.
I have read through ABC thread numerous times and searched the internet for more information.


Very occasionally getting an “ABC Malfunction” message on the dash when driving in freezing temperature only. Not every time when freezing outside, No errors ever above freezing.

Pull over, the fluid level is 3mm below the full line on the dipstick in the ABC reservoir with engine running.

The suspension is at normal height.

The Foxwell Mercedes Software NT510 Elite did not display any codes.


Turn off motor, restart, message clears, complete the driver to work another 10 miles, no error.

When car is cold in garage, engine off, the fluid level is 6mm below full mark.

Warmed up ABC, engine on, the fluid is 3mm below full mark.

I had the ABC system flushed and new filter 2 months ago.

After the flush, the fluid was at the full mark, engine running, after it warmed up.

It appears to be losing a little fluid.

No leaks observed, no puddles in garage.

The car has sat for weeks in garage and holds perfect height.


The ride up to 70 mph seems tight and no apparent motor boating.

Both Accumulators are >10 years old.

I ordered Front Accumulator 2213270215 and Rear Accumulator 2213280015 arriving next week.

Read it is straight forward to swap out both.

Will the ABC system self bleed the air out after swapping out accumulators and topping off the reservoir, or will I need to perform a “bleeding the air out” procedure afterward?

Any advice is appreciated if I’m on the right trajectory as I haven’t ever bled the ABC system.

JR

Last edited by johnnyrocket52; Dec 29, 2023 at 03:33 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2023 | 05:46 AM
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I don't think replacing parts at home without full knowledge and special tools to refill is sensible - mate bought a specialist bit of kit to assist in fluid changing and bleeding from the USA (cost a few hundred dollars), but was too scared to ever try it - a very well known UK indy garage was so impressed with the tool he wanted to buy it off him

lets see from people who have played, what they suggest....

as for odd little faults - within the last year a couple of owners resolved a slight bounce when stopped at lights where the front can jog up and down 10mm - on the top of each strut is a sensor - they are cheap and nasty and thus go wrong (in the end fitting new rear sensors allowed the front's to behave !!!) - Then just a few months ago I found a workshop intervention document from 10 plus years back admitting they had a batch of faulty sensors - I think now it was the very fault these guys had this year, and it was meant to be fixed years back with replacement sensors on the strut tops by Merc for free -

search ALL the posts by konigstiger (for TPS, service campaigns or recall stuff in the pinned section at the top of the 221 forum) - so many faults, recalls and software patches for stuff they never understood when building the cars - it should keep you busy reading them all for 6 months - and as you come back year after year rechecking those docs for a new fault you've found, if lucky you may start to understand the gibberish they wrote and 10 years in you might have a clue what they were trying to resolve.... but no garages ever bothered to do the work


P-B-32.50/42 OCT06 – Vehicle level lowers on a single axle 221.171/176/179 with Active Body Control (ABS). If the vehicle’s level lowers on a single axle on a single side after being idle from one day to one week. ABC hydraulic fluid will be replaced and a modified filter (part # A003 184 61 01) installed. It should be noted that vehicle lowering is generally not the result of a malfunction of a suspension strut. The suspension strut can only be responsible for vehicle lowering if it has an external leak. This can be recognized by an oil fouled boot.

P-B-47.30/42 OCT06 – Pulsation noises from purge line (221.171 without ABC suspension). It may be due to the pulsating flow from the activated charcoal filter to the engine that causes the purge line to vibrate. These vibrations are initiated through mounting points or contact of the line on the body and may be heard as pulsation noises (ticking noises) inside the passenger compartment. A fluid reservoir between the purge valve and the line to the activated charcoal filter will be installed (part # A221 470 04 16).

Service Campaign 2006120006 DEC06 – Replace ABC high-pressure line; inspect coolant hose and replace if necessary.
221.176 VIN range: A022143 to A030502, approximately 33 vehicles affected *

On affected vehicles the geometry of the ABC high pressure line may not meet specifications. This can cause the ABC high pressure line to be in contact with the engine coolant hose. The dealer will replace the ABC high pressure line with a modified version and also check and replace the engine coolant hose if necessary.

* Notes:
(1) Service Campaigns are done on a voluntary basis by MBUSA, but are also monitored by the Government. Repairs are performed by dealer when vehicle is in for service work.
(2)Every vehicle in the VIN range may not be included in the campaign. Have your dealer to check VMI to confirm.

Service Campaign 2007080005 AUG07 As the result of dynamic loads, deformation may occur at the bracket of the power steering/Active Body Control (ABC) tandem pump. Dealers will replace the tandem pump bracket with a modified design. Approximately 6 vehicles affected.

P-B-32.50/57 OCT07 “ABC Visit Workshop” displayed in the IC the cause may be a software error within the ABC control module and software will be updated.

P-B-32.50/60 NOV07 Chirping / whistling noise from the area of the Active Body Control (ABC) tandem pump (engine compartment) when the vehicle is idling, the pump will be replaced with a revised part.

RECALL Campaign 2008080004 SEPT08
215, 216, 220, 221 and 230 MY 2001-2008
Variations in the suppliers soldering process in soldering points on the board of the ABC sensors may not be within design tolerances. A variation in the transmitted values between affected and unaffected sensors can result in an uneven front suspension. A warning will show in the IC. This condition may lead to unexpected body movements at the front axle that can adversely affect directional stability. Dealer will replace the sensors. Have your dealer check VMI to see if your vehicle is included. Approximately 4,579 vehicles affected.

P-B-32.50/71 DEC08 216.371/376/377 & 221.171/176/177/179 with Active Body Control - whistling / flute like noise emanating from the front or rear axle area with engine idling. Caused by the internal pressure limiting valve in the front axle ABC valve block and noise may transfer to the rear via the hydraulic lines. Resolve, replace front valve block.

Recall 2009010002 FEB09 MY 07 221 both front ABC struts, a defect may exist in the ball joints of the front struts due to a manufacturing process flaw at the supplier. The flaw may affect the ball joints after significant mileage accumulation combined with continuous stress by driving over rough roads. Approximately 1524 vehicles affected. Check with dealer to see if your VIN is included or if it has been previously repaired.

LI32.50-P-048280 NOV09 humming/howling noise from ABC suspension up to approximately 2000 rpm particularly noticeable at about 1400 rpm replace pulsation damper at pressure supply valve block or tandem pump (ABC-PLUS).





.

Last edited by BOTUS; Dec 29, 2023 at 03:41 PM.
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Old Dec 30, 2023 | 03:06 AM
  #3  
johnnyrocket52's Avatar
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From: Portland, Oregon
2009 S600 V-12
2009 W221 ABC Malfunction

Originally Posted by BOTUS
I don't think replacing parts at home without full knowledge and special tools to refill is sensible - mate bought a specialist bit of kit to assist in fluid changing and bleeding from the USA (cost a few hundred dollars), but was too scared to ever try it - a very well known UK indy garage was so impressed with the tool he wanted to buy it off him

lets see from people who have played, what they suggest....

as for odd little faults - within the last year a couple of owners resolved a slight bounce when stopped at lights where the front can jog up and down 10mm - on the top of each strut is a sensor - they are cheap and nasty and thus go wrong (in the end fitting new rear sensors allowed the front's to behave !!!) - Then just a few months ago I found a workshop intervention document from 10 plus years back admitting they had a batch of faulty sensors - I think now it was the very fault these guys had this year, and it was meant to be fixed years back with replacement sensors on the strut tops by Merc for free -

search ALL the posts by konigstiger (for TPS, service campaigns or recall stuff in the pinned section at the top of the 221 forum) - so many faults, recalls and software patches for stuff they never understood when building the cars - it should keep you busy reading them all for 6 months - and as you come back year after year rechecking those docs for a new fault you've found, if lucky you may start to understand the gibberish they wrote and 10 years in you might have a clue what they were trying to resolve.... but no garages ever bothered to do the work


P-B-32.50/42 OCT06 – Vehicle level lowers on a single axle 221.171/176/179 with Active Body Control (ABS). If the vehicle’s level lowers on a single axle on a single side after being idle from one day to one week. ABC hydraulic fluid will be replaced and a modified filter (part # A003 184 61 01) installed. It should be noted that vehicle lowering is generally not the result of a malfunction of a suspension strut. The suspension strut can only be responsible for vehicle lowering if it has an external leak. This can be recognized by an oil fouled boot.

P-B-47.30/42 OCT06 – Pulsation noises from purge line (221.171 without ABC suspension). It may be due to the pulsating flow from the activated charcoal filter to the engine that causes the purge line to vibrate. These vibrations are initiated through mounting points or contact of the line on the body and may be heard as pulsation noises (ticking noises) inside the passenger compartment. A fluid reservoir between the purge valve and the line to the activated charcoal filter will be installed (part # A221 470 04 16).

Service Campaign 2006120006 DEC06 – Replace ABC high-pressure line; inspect coolant hose and replace if necessary.
221.176 VIN range: A022143 to A030502, approximately 33 vehicles affected *

On affected vehicles the geometry of the ABC high pressure line may not meet specifications. This can cause the ABC high pressure line to be in contact with the engine coolant hose. The dealer will replace the ABC high pressure line with a modified version and also check and replace the engine coolant hose if necessary.

* Notes:
(1) Service Campaigns are done on a voluntary basis by MBUSA, but are also monitored by the Government. Repairs are performed by dealer when vehicle is in for service work.
(2)Every vehicle in the VIN range may not be included in the campaign. Have your dealer to check VMI to confirm.

Service Campaign 2007080005 AUG07 As the result of dynamic loads, deformation may occur at the bracket of the power steering/Active Body Control (ABC) tandem pump. Dealers will replace the tandem pump bracket with a modified design. Approximately 6 vehicles affected.

P-B-32.50/57 OCT07 “ABC Visit Workshop” displayed in the IC the cause may be a software error within the ABC control module and software will be updated.

P-B-32.50/60 NOV07 Chirping / whistling noise from the area of the Active Body Control (ABC) tandem pump (engine compartment) when the vehicle is idling, the pump will be replaced with a revised part.

RECALL Campaign 2008080004 SEPT08
215, 216, 220, 221 and 230 MY 2001-2008
Variations in the suppliers soldering process in soldering points on the board of the ABC sensors may not be within design tolerances. A variation in the transmitted values between affected and unaffected sensors can result in an uneven front suspension. A warning will show in the IC. This condition may lead to unexpected body movements at the front axle that can adversely affect directional stability. Dealer will replace the sensors. Have your dealer check VMI to see if your vehicle is included. Approximately 4,579 vehicles affected.

P-B-32.50/71 DEC08 216.371/376/377 & 221.171/176/177/179 with Active Body Control - whistling / flute like noise emanating from the front or rear axle area with engine idling. Caused by the internal pressure limiting valve in the front axle ABC valve block and noise may transfer to the rear via the hydraulic lines. Resolve, replace front valve block.

Recall 2009010002 FEB09 MY 07 221 both front ABC struts, a defect may exist in the ball joints of the front struts due to a manufacturing process flaw at the supplier. The flaw may affect the ball joints after significant mileage accumulation combined with continuous stress by driving over rough roads. Approximately 1524 vehicles affected. Check with dealer to see if your VIN is included or if it has been previously repaired.

LI32.50-P-048280 NOV09 humming/howling noise from ABC suspension up to approximately 2000 rpm particularly noticeable at about 1400 rpm replace pulsation damper at pressure supply valve block or tandem pump (ABC-PLUS).
Thanks Botus.

I can speak the the dealership and ask them to run my VIN to see what recalls have been done.

The only thing I have right now is the accumulators are >10 years old, fluid is approximately 3mm down lower in the reservoir since the flushing, and an intermittent fault “ABC Malfunction”. Which is like looking in your rear view mirror, and seeing a police car on your bumper with the Christmas lights on!

In all of reading I’m heavily leaning towards the accumulators as no external leaks and suspension is behaving well when error occurs,

Every YouTube and forum story has been replace the front/back accumulators, but no mention of bleeding the system.

Accumulators front/back is $450 plus fluid if I do the job.

The shop off of the main avenue wants $1900 front/back replacement out the door.

I still pose the question if the system needs to be bled after front/back accumulators have been replaced?

JR

Last edited by johnnyrocket52; Dec 30, 2023 at 03:34 AM.
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Old Dec 30, 2023 | 03:56 AM
  #4  
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did you sign up with BenZNinja ?

you'd then have the kit to talk to the car and follow the instructions - potentially get support if you mess it up
I wouldn't be attempting to play without high end diagnostic gear that's supposed to be able to tell you whats going on

rodeo - I think is the bleed process ?
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Old Dec 30, 2023 | 06:15 AM
  #5  
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Yah, sign up with BenzNinja--he will update your car with many years worth of updates that the dealer never bothered to do. You need the AGA flush tool if you are going to do this project. I did not bleed the system (I guess) when I flushed the system. I just extracted the fluid while the car was pitching forward/aft while refilling with clean fluid. I put in a new filter, leveled up the fluid to spec, and was done. My accumulators are 15 years old, and I'm thinking I should change them soon. Please let us know how it goes, and take some photos.
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Old Dec 30, 2023 | 07:23 AM
  #6  
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nath_h, thanks for the name, never heard of this make of tool manu before.... in UK we have Laser than do good affordable specialist car tools https://www.lasertools.co.uk/products/Cars-&-Vans

here's the one you mentioned

https://agatools.com/products/aga-mb...a0f2893b&_ss=r


Last edited by BOTUS; Dec 30, 2023 at 07:25 AM.
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Old Dec 30, 2023 | 11:02 PM
  #7  
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S600
Originally Posted by johnnyrocket52
Hello, I posted this initially in the W275 ABC thread and copied it over to here.
I have read through ABC thread numerous times and searched the internet for more information.


Very occasionally getting an “ABC Malfunction” message on the dash when driving in freezing temperature only. Not every time when freezing outside, No errors ever above freezing.

Pull over, the fluid level is 3mm below the full line on the dipstick in the ABC reservoir with engine running.

The suspension is at normal height.

The Foxwell Mercedes Software NT510 Elite did not display any codes.


Turn off motor, restart, message clears, complete the driver to work another 10 miles, no error.

When car is cold in garage, engine off, the fluid level is 6mm below full mark.

Warmed up ABC, engine on, the fluid is 3mm below full mark.

I had the ABC system flushed and new filter 2 months ago.

After the flush, the fluid was at the full mark, engine running, after it warmed up.

It appears to be losing a little fluid.

No leaks observed, no puddles in garage.

The car has sat for weeks in garage and holds perfect height.


The ride up to 70 mph seems tight and no apparent motor boating.

Both Accumulators are >10 years old.

I ordered Front Accumulator 2213270215 and Rear Accumulator 2213280015 arriving next week.

Read it is straight forward to swap out both.

Will the ABC system self bleed the air out after swapping out accumulators and topping off the reservoir, or will I need to perform a “bleeding the air out” procedure afterward?

Any advice is appreciated if I’m on the right trajectory as I haven’t ever bled the ABC system.

JR
Did mine earlier this year (not a bad job at all)

I used a chain-locking plier to remove the front accumulator from the valve block with no issues.

It’s unnerving for sure cause you don’t want to break anything but if you get a solid grip and secure the block with your other hand it will give just take your time.

Rear is pretty straightforward since it’s in the trunk under the spare.

The fluid removal tool makes the fluid swap easy.

Dont worry about air pockets or bleeding it will take care of itself!

I worried about this too and I’m retrospect having changed my fluid/filter 3x in just over 100,000mi—there’s nothing to worry about.

If you can rodeo while adding fluid—great!
If you can’t then simply have someone press the life and lower button on the dash… Just be sure to keep fresh fluid in the reservoir to avoid the pump running dry!

The way I found out air or bleeding will not be an issue is on my 2nd fluid/filter change I over-filled the circuit a bit.

Although I checked and levels seemed slightly higher than the lower notch (engine on level); after taking the car for a spirited test drive and parking the extra fluid simply drained via a tiny hole in the dipstick cap.

So any extra pressure or fluid will always have a way to be released from the system—so don’t worry!

Key thing is have more than enough pentosin ready, be sure to keep steady pressure on the tool as the rodeo/up & down movement while swapping fluid doesn’t create some pressure in the reservoir.

No air will get into the system—just take your time!

*Also a big concern for me was whether the system would be pressurized when removing the accumulators—no worries there!

(And I did my fronts on 3t jack stands with the back tires on the ground—super scary lol but no pressure issues)

You might get a few drips when removing—if that.

Finally, the “ABC Malfunction” warning is typically because the inner part of the accumulator is losing its integrity and not dampening the pressure to spec.

This means the gas inside the accumulator has undoubtedly mixed with the pentosin in the system so it’s a good idea to get all that old fluid out of there.

Hope this helps!

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Old Dec 30, 2023 | 11:42 PM
  #8  
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For those concerned about releasing residual pressure in the system before loosening Nitrogen Bombs.... There is a bleeder next to each corner of the car. Attach a hose to the bleeder and slowly open the bleeder. (With the car running fluid can be changed this way.) The car will drop at the corner you open when not running. No pressure means no drama removing Nitrogen Bombs. The front Accumulator is best replaced with the car on a hoist. Ornery thing to get to on jack stands.

If any any of you need them I have a pair of new Nitrogen Bombs for 2008 S65. I’ll sell for half of what I paid for them. But only to a good home.
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Old Dec 31, 2023 | 04:30 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by V12mrinc
Did mine earlier this year (not a bad job at all)

I used a chain-locking plier to remove the front accumulator from the valve block with no issues.

It’s unnerving for sure cause you don’t want to break anything but if you get a solid grip and secure the block with your other hand it will give just take your time.

Rear is pretty straightforward since it’s in the trunk under the spare.

The fluid removal tool makes the fluid swap easy.

Dont worry about air pockets or bleeding it will take care of itself!

I worried about this too and I’m retrospect having changed my fluid/filter 3x in just over 100,000mi—there’s nothing to worry about.

If you can rodeo while adding fluid—great!
If you can’t then simply have someone press the life and lower button on the dash… Just be sure to keep fresh fluid in the reservoir to avoid the pump running dry!

The way I found out air or bleeding will not be an issue is on my 2nd fluid/filter change I over-filled the circuit a bit.

Although I checked and levels seemed slightly higher than the lower notch (engine on level); after taking the car for a spirited test drive and parking the extra fluid simply drained via a tiny hole in the dipstick cap.

So any extra pressure or fluid will always have a way to be released from the system—so don’t worry!

Key thing is have more than enough pentosin ready, be sure to keep steady pressure on the tool as the rodeo/up & down movement while swapping fluid doesn’t create some pressure in the reservoir.

No air will get into the system—just take your time!

*Also a big concern for me was whether the system would be pressurized when removing the accumulators—no worries there!

(And I did my fronts on 3t jack stands with the back tires on the ground—super scary lol but no pressure issues)

You might get a few drips when removing—if that.

Finally, the “ABC Malfunction” warning is typically because the inner part of the accumulator is losing its integrity and not dampening the pressure to spec.

This means the gas inside the accumulator has undoubtedly mixed with the pentosin in the system so it’s a good idea to get all that old fluid out of there.

Hope this helps!
Thanks V12. Your experience and explanation gives me confidence to replace the front/back accumulators and get the system back online without trapped air.

I read in the forums my Foxwell NT510 Elite will do the rodeo to push out the trapped air.

I almost joined the BensNinja support team when I first took delivery of this machine, but redirected all my funds to replacing the coil packs, ignition transformer, and all of the fluids. I know I need to join up sooner rather than later.

The accumulators will be here in a few weeks and will keep you posted on how the swap went.

JR
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Old Dec 31, 2023 | 06:03 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by V12mrinc
Did mine earlier this year (not a bad job at all)

The fluid removal tool makes the fluid swap easy.

Dont worry about air pockets or bleeding it will take care of itself!

If you can rodeo while adding fluid—great!

Hope this helps!
watching the video above - where he pumps all the dirt around the system - then lifts the filter letting all the crud fall back in, where upon he definitely pushes it around the car and then gets a small amount of fluid changed...

I would say a better method....

when cold - lift the filter very slowly - now extract ALL the fluid from the reservoir including all the dirt that falls straight out of the filter and back into the reservoir (whenever changing the appalling design), - top it up and mix it up and again extract yet more dirt and debris - refill with the bleed tool in play and now do a fluid change in rodeo mode so you fully flush the crap out of each strut - BUT - you'll need to be ready to stop the rodeo and or fill the reservoir persistently - you don't want it running dry
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Old Dec 31, 2023 | 06:19 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by JohnLane
For those concerned about releasing residual pressure in the system before loosening Nitrogen Bombs.... There is a bleeder next to each corner of the car. Attach a hose to the bleeder and slowly open the bleeder. (With the car running fluid can be changed this way.) The car will drop at the corner you open when not running. No pressure means no drama removing Nitrogen Bombs. The front Accumulator is best replaced with the car on a hoist. Ornery thing to get to on jack stands.

If any any of you need them I have a pair of new Nitrogen Bombs for 2008 S65. I’ll sell for half of what I paid for them. But only to a good home.
I'd be interested in buying them. Send me a private message with the details.
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Old Dec 31, 2023 | 12:04 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by johnnyrocket52
Thanks V12. Your experience and explanation gives me confidence to replace the front/back accumulators and get the system back online without trapped air.

I read in the forums my Foxwell NT510 Elite will do the rodeo to push out the trapped air.

I almost joined the BensNinja support team when I first took delivery of this machine, but redirected all my funds to replacing the coil packs, ignition transformer, and all of the fluids. I know I need to join up sooner rather than later.

The accumulators will be here in a few weeks and will keep you posted on how the swap went.

JR
Please do! And I think you did exactly what all us V12ers do when getting these—prioritize those coil packs/VT followed by new fluid—so kudos!

One typo I noticed in my post was after the “Key Point” where it says “doesn’t” I meant to say “DOES” regarding the pressure in the reservoir.


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By Verdad Gallardo | 2026-04-10 10:05:15


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10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used

Slideshow: From bulletproof sedans to surprisingly tough SUVs, these Mercedes models proved that the three-pointed star can go the distance.

By Verdad Gallardo | 2026-04-08 09:55:49


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