It started showing ABC malfunction on the dash and occasionally while driving the front suspension will move one way or the other. There is also a message that says active headlights see owners manual on the dash. Another error message will come up on the dash but only when you try to activate the cruise control and that message says distronic see owners manual. Here are the codes it's throwing.Any suggestions based off the codes is appreciated. Thank you.

 

if the car is good and no recent maint and or no knowledge they haven't been done in the last two years on the ABC, replace the sensors at the top of all four struts - they fail and make the car jump up and wobble when stationary (at 10 years should be seen a service item) - and then get a fluid and filter change

the rest get decent batteries clear and see where u r


I'm not opening a dodgy attachment - paste it as a pic so we don't need to waste our time or install your viruses

 

I apologize. I meant to mention that I replaced the 12v battery a couple months ago. Would the four sensors not put out some codes? I did not check the battery in the trunk. I looked for the small auxiliary battery in the side of the dash but do not see it.

 

You have multiple errors at the same time. All these modules/sensors do not fail at the same time.

Check/replace the AUX battery. When it fails you get several modules fail.

I don’t have ABC but when my AUX battery goes out/low I get DISTRONIC, ABS, LANE KEEP and EMERGENCY BREAK systems errors.

When it first happened with my 2010 E550 it was when the first cold days came.

 

Thank you for the reply. I know there is an auxiliary battery in the trunk but I have seen videos about a very small auxiliary battery in the driver's side dash. I opened the side of the driver's side dash today but could not find a battery. Is this battery in the dash only in certain models of S-Class? Thank you for the reply.

 

Merc couldn't understand electrics when they made these and went round the houses fitting removing and relocating batteries throughout the model life of 7 years

pre 2007 should be a giant one in the boot small under the bonnet
then 2008 one large under the bonnet and maybe a small under the dash
and just leant a few months back 2011 last one's got large up front and baby one at the back

 

This does look to me like a bad battery in the trunk. When it starts to go bad, it will throw low voltage codes all over the place. The right thing to do is check that big battery in the trunk for a date code. If it is more than 7 years old, and the resting voltage of the battery is less than 12.0 volts; you need to replace it. These cars are super sensitive to voltage fluctuations. I would bet a battery replacement followed by a clearing of the DTC codes, will resolve your issues. Keep us posted.

 

I have the 2010 E550 and my main battery is in the trunk and the very small fist size AUX battery in the driver side end of the dash that you do not see by removing the end cover of the dash. It is hidden and you need to remove the foot well under cover to get to it. The bolt that holds the battery bracket you access by the end of dash though.

In my 2012 S550 I also have the fist size AUX battery in the lefty end of dash accessed the same way. This battery bracket also houses the CGW module that is clipped on the battery bracket.

 

for the CGI cars

https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/e...94/d63/54/030/

the way I get the drawing is
top shows what's under the "black" bonnet (large one)
beneath shows what in the "black" boot

 

Seems like the battery in the trunk needs replacement. The small sized auxiliary battery in the left side of the dash that you are talking about is for the facelifted w221s (2010 to 2013), pre-facelift didn't have them, you have a battery in your engine bay (starter battery) and a larger battery in the trunk (electronics and electrical components battery).

 

Yes, my AUX batteries in both cars are small. In the 2010 E550 the main BIG battery is in the trunk, in the 2012 S550 the same BIG battery is in the engine bay under the hood.

The AUX battery in my cars does not run the AUX equipment. I think the battery only supplies voltage to various equipment during engine start to keep them alive.

 

on various tractors (that struggle to create manifold vac to run a conventional brake booster) they ran another set up and these used a back up battery to emergency help put the brakes on - I guess in case it stalls ? the car runs an electric pump to fill a nitrogen accumulator (that's the set up on my father's 211 tractor with joke SBC brakes)

just contemplating how turbo petrols have good manifold vac, as the turbo is surely removing it ?

the tractor (221 126) shows both in the boot which I guess is wrong?




On later other merc models the baby battery runs start stop logic
I'd heard on the 221 the one under the dash just helps the gearbox ISM to behave

 

Thank you all for the help. I replaced the battery in the trunk and that cleared multiple dtc. I am left with these codes now. I don't care about the mirror, distronic, or headlight codes. I am mainly concerned with the ABC Malfunction and the front of the car moving around while driving. I see that the front passenger acceleration sensor has a problem. Could this sensor be causing the ABC issue?

 

Yes, quite probably. Replace that sensor but also do a filter and green Pentocin fluid replacement for your ABC. Examine the old fluid for dirt. I would also visually inspect all the ABC hoses for any wetness or seepage. They are under huge pressure and need to be monitored and replaced periodically. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

like I said in post #2...

 

So I called Mercedes and asked them to look up the part number for the right front body acceleration sensor. They gave me this part number 000-905-65-02. I looked under the hood and found two sensor looking parts above the the two struts that have a coupler plugged into them like you said. Next, I called a shop that works on Mercedes and the guy told me that the acceleration sensor is like a $4000 part and that the one I was told about is probably not what I need. He asked what scan tool I was using and said even though the Topdon I am using is good, I really need the Xentry system because the Topdon could be misleading me. Does this sound right?

 

first mistake - NEVER go to the guy just released from prison without first knowing more about the subject than the fools that build the car

its often the rear gone that makes the front jump - do all 4

what is part 30 here

https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/e...71/63w/54/695/


A 00 454 235 18

 

FYI I have NO IDEA about ABC never even seen under the bonnet - so check your homework with experts....

 

I appreciate you looking that up. It looks like the part number you found is the same thing as the part number they gave me just an older part number.

TO answer you, no it's not all four as far as I can tell. Plus the Topdon only reported the passenger right side I think.


I guess it would be worth trying to replace it for $106.60 and see if the ABC malfunction goes away?

 

the sensor die to time (like ALL Bosch crap designed to fail electronics) - hence why in post 2, I suggest something so cheap yet critical to the car driving well is worth changing as a service item at this age - if you search - within the last year two owners confirmed rear sensors throw the front in the hop at traffic lights tails spin. If one on yours died then why would any of the other be serviceable for another 10 years

 

Topdon is a Chinese knock off of a diagnostic tool. I have one and it is really only good for PCM codes. It is worth exactly the $10 I paid for it. It won't scan all of your modules. To do that you need a better scan tool. There are several recommendations in this forum if you want to study the posts. I use a Foxwell with the Mercedes features, about $150 or so. There are others online. These scanners can interrogate about 60 modules and if you are serious about making this car a project, you will need a better scanner. Topdon probably won't erase all DTC codes. So you got lucky when you replaced that rear battery as BOTUS suggested because many of your codes were voltage related. You should erase all the codes and rescan to see what you really have to do next.

On the other hand, BOTUS is one of the most discerning and knowledgeable people on the Forum and you should carefully listen to him. Replacing one ABC tower sensor out of four may work this time, but you already know you will see another one fail soon. Your ABC system needs regular maintenance to work well and if your car has not had proper maintenance, you need to catch up fast. Please visually inspect all the high pressure hoses and the accumulators front and rear looking for wetness or seepage. Then do a filter and fluid change as BOTUS suggested and check for dirt and grit in the drained green Pentocin fluid. I bet your fluid is not even green anymore, probably a dark black, and sure to cause you more problems soon if not properly maintained.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

I understand. Everything you guys are saying is making sense. I know BOTUS said the sensors are at the top of all four struts. I feel confident I located the two in the front under the hood at the top of the strut. How do I access the ones in the rear? Are they behind the rear fender splash guards?

 

the speaker grills come out and there the top of the strut

 

Awesome. Thank you sir.

 

Keep us posted.